Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sport | |||||
20 | ★ Cobruhh
Steep fun just right of the corner, 8m right of DD. Double U anchor, best to rap to clean. | 10m, 5 | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
16 | ★ Happy Baby
Tricky start then cruisy yet thought provoking face climbing. Clip and lower anchor. Sun from late arvo. | 10m, 5 | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
22 | ★ Worrier Pose
Arch those eyebrows. More thin and consistent face climbing. Stick clip the first bolt, watch your back, and no bridging on the boulder. Double U’s at anchor. | 10m, 5 | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
Closed project - Enrico
Steep hard thing on the left. | 12m | Mt Stapylton Campground | |||
24 | ★★ Ignorance & Bliss
Gently overhanging with great moves on pockets then a steep finish via a big scoop. | 12m | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
22 | ★ Happiness & Authority
Pumpy water washed jugs up the orange streak on the right. | 12m | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
18 | ★★ Sad Euphoria
Back on the lower level. The left hand line in the big orange scoopy wall. Tricky start moves to shelf, then glorious overhanging jugs to double ring anchor. | 19m | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
23 | ★★ Lactic Intolerance
Middle of the proud orange face hides a tricky move before venturing through the wild roof flake. The headwall can also be climbed for the full tick but adds significant rope drag. Use the fixed hardware and imagination to clean without too much hassle. | 20m, 9 | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
17 | ★★ Forget Me Not
Extremely pleasant moves with an obvious one move crux. Follow the grey streak diagonally to arête moving right at the horizontal break. Up the headwall to clip & lower. | 21m, 9 | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
20 | ★ Facing Shade
Around the corner from Forget Me Not. Short but good pumpy fun with all day shade. | 10m, 4 | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
16 | ★ 10am R&B
Just R of the large gum. Easy fun on amazing holds with just one tricky but very well protected move. Clip and lower anchor. | 13m, 6 | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
16 | ★★ Girls on the TV
Quality climbing on a nice wall at a very fun grade. Clip and lower anchor. | 14m, 7 | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
21 | Malleolus
Up clean orange face and up through the crux roof pull 3m R of GOTTV. Clip and lower anchor. | 15m, 7 | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
19 | ★★ Stallone
Muscle up the overhanging corner via amazing pockets that beg for a three points off moment, before cresting over into steep slab territory. | 22m, 8 | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
19 | Demolition Man
Starts in the scoop 4m R of Stallone, diagonally up to break, traverse then pull the lip trying to stay off the holds on Stallone then slab to rings. | 16m, 5 | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
Closed Project ML
Demolition Direct - Direct start via undercut arete | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||||
20 | ★★ Faff Pack
Leave the faff pack on the ground and enjoy this tasty clip up. Start up the right leaning crack, pull the lip trending left of the third bolt and gobble up the fantastic face above. Any bridging along the way will cost you a grade or three. | 17m, 8 | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
20 | ★ Roofs Manuva
Over the chasm right of FP. Originally started off the block at around 18, now also has a direct start from the ground. Clip and lower anchors. One hope, one quest. | 16m | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
19 | ★ Sinking Sands
Face 3m R of RM reaching L through the roof. Rap ring loweroff. | 12m, 6 | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
23 | ★ Confirmation Bias
5m R of RM. Bouldery fun with some killer moves. Don’t let the seasonal waterfall and somewhat scrappy rock at the start put you off. Seeps at the start (to put it mildly) after rain. Final RB can be tricky to spot in the heat of the moment and is skipped by some. | 15m, 7 | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
25 | ★★ Lux Aeterna
The steep modern sport line a few metres right of CB requires plenty of oomph and some new school trickery. 7RB plus belayers directional to rap rings. | 15m, 8 | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
Closed project - Enrico
Roof line with the crazy looking U bolts. 10m R of CB through the cave roof, please stay off for now. | 10 | Mt Stapylton Campground | |||
21 | ★ Beyond 2000
Short, steep line with tricky moves getting past that big tummy. Stays in the shade later than most routes in the vicinity. | 10m, 5 | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
15 | ★ Quitline
Starts 3m to the left of the first bolt on The Cubans in the corner on nice jugs. Supersedes Toby’s trad route Mortein Pig, which climbed up the right trending ramp after the initial corner to the Anchor on TC. | 24m, 10 | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
17 | ★★ The Cubans
Either traverse in or go nuts and cut loose at the start. Long, consistent and absorbing at the grade. Named after some particularly memorable sandwiches. Stick clip advised for first bolt. | 23m, 8 | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
17 | ★★ Cinny Bun Brain
Gently bold but who doesn't like some cinnamon spice? Line of RBs right of The Cubans. Start on the blunt arête and meet up with the right trending ramp. Mind the shallow ledges on the way to the well protected crux and the victory jugs. | 25m, 8 | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
18 | ★★ Cigars of the Pharaoh
The next line to the R linking into CBB up high. More superb climbing. Stick to the left at the crux. | 25m, 9 | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
13 | ★★ Winnie the Blue
Good fun! Up the shallow corner and golden honey slab above. Initially led with one bolt and specialty pro. The anchors smell like honey but don't lick them. | 25m, 7 | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
18 | ★ Durry Puncher
Nice slabbing staying mostly on the dark weathered streak past the bolts to clip & lowers. | 20m, 7 | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
15 | ★ Port Royal
The crack line right of Durry Puncher, ending at the same anchors. Originally climbed on gear but now converted to a fun sport ramble. Tricky start. | 20m, 7 | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
18 | ★ Terabithia
Five metres past the little waterfall that marks the right end of the Smokers Corner area. Perplexing start to good slabbing, the line of FH's. | 15m, 6 | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
13 | ★ Fresh Prince Albert
2m R of Terabithia. Step off the blocks to gain the big slot. Over the rooflet following the runnels of least resistance to the large ledge and DBB. Lower now or belay and abseil for the full adventure. | 25m, 8 | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
22 | ★ Sega
Thin and steep bolted slab with superb technical moves 2m R of FPA. | 20m, 6 | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
22 | ★★ Reliance on Compliance
Starts in the little alcove. Thin techy bolted slab. Runout but very easy climbing to the anchors. | 21m, 6 | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
20 | ★ Beefeater
Bolted slab & arete. Either start as ROC or bridging is permitted while getting yourself established. | 21m, 6 | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
14 | Hoarse Whisperer
20m Right of Idiot Sandwich. Bridging fun starting either off the boulder at base or up the crack. Clip & lower anchor. | 25m, 8 | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
17 | ★ Bongo Birds
First bolted line left of the boulder. Steep start to bulges to slab. Rings at belay. | 25m | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
17 | The Chin
Middle ring bolted line. Steep start past the chin to bulges. Rings at belay. | 16m | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
16 | ★★ Holey Diver
Novelty route! To keep the grade consistent at 16 crawl through the hole into the cave and tie in from there. Rings at belay. | 21m, 9 | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
21 | ★★ The Jump Line
Another hilarious novelty route. Stick clip the belay anchor on the podium and figure out how to get across safely... Awesome steep jugs. Take care when lowering as the rope will always end up settling into the funnel below the anchors. To prevent a jammed rope and getting stuck in space either rap off or if lowering ensure the climber's side of the rope is nestled into the groove first, belayers side on top. | 13m, 6 | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
18 | Hauser
Pocketed face on average sandy rock that stays dry in rain to the right of ‘The Jump Line'. Try not to jump up and down on the sketchy looking block below and right of the anchors, that thing has been thoroughly tested with a crowbar and so far is staying put but you just never know.. | 9m | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
- Closed Project -
The crazy looking roof line. STAY OFF. | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||||
20 | ★ The Don
The clean arete right of TFC. Trundle up the blocky start then step on and resist any urge to bridge. Like kabana by the campfire, the don is the goods! | 12m, 5 | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
23 | ★★ The Deal
The clean and pumpy ring bolted face right of the Don. Beautiful pocketed start leads through a technical sequence of quality moves before jugs to the top. | 13m, 5 | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
23 | ★ All Mod Cons
start about 4m left of The Great Foaming Espresso Machine/ Shining Path. Stick clip the first bolt. Up past this and two more to a fixed anchor. FA: Kevin Lindorff | 12m, 3 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
26 | Lazaretto
A forgotten Gordy concoction. up face past 2 FHs then move right to vague arete past two more FHs. FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 11 Apr | 10m, 4 | Arapiles | ||
23 | ★★ The JR Line
Awesome climbing up Arapilesian rock. Start left of Golden Gaytime passing a loose (but locked in) chockstone to a stance. Power onwards through a long sequence of sidepulls and hero holds. FA: Poppy | 19m, 6 | Victoria Range | ||
Open Project
Direct start to GMA that adds another crux or two and straightens the line out | Victoria Range | ||||
16 | Petaruncus
From where the track meets the cliff, head left (towards Labour ward) for 20 metres to the lowest point of a red wall. Straight up past 4 bolts to lower offs. FA: Bernie Whitelock; Graeme Smith; Steve Donlon, 28 Apr | 12m, 4 | Halls Gap Area | ||
25 | ★★★ Life After Football
Difficult technical moves past first 2 bolts, then up the glorious arete. FA: Jimmy, 23 Jun | 20m, 6 | Victoria Range | ||
34 | ★★★ Light Weight Baby
This route was previously known as The Sean Myles Project and bolted in around '92 by its English namesake. Like a woody problem on classic Arapilisian bums through a steep wall to finish up crimpy headwall. Start at base of roof left of Aristocrat (clip the 3 dynas with single biners for ease of climbing, and to keep rope away from holds). Slappy compression leads to base of seam. Clip bolt at lip and head straight up via pulls between edges and last bolt to easy finish and single bolt lower-off. FA: Ben Cossey | 10m, 5 | Arapiles | ||
Right Revolution Rock
2 FHs that join Revolution Rock. | Arapiles | ||||
25 | ★ Vampire Empire
Climb first 3 bolts of Densei, then funky traverse right to anchor. | 15m, 7 | Victoria Range | ||
24 | The Smashing Pumpkins
Starts as per first 3 bolts of 'Jane's Addiction'. Move left at horizontal to juggy black groove. Neat headwall to finish. | 7 | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
17 | ★ Sun June | 14m, 6 | Mt Stapylton Campground |