Showing all 13 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |||||||||||||||
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2013 | |||||||||||||||||||
22 | ★★★ Stop the Bolts!
An amusing mutl-pitch trad adventure up a very scenic sandstone buttress. The first pitch is a bit scary, the second pitch steep and classy and the top pitches a mix of green and gold. Bring a double rack of cams from #4 Camalot to small finger size, a single set of wires and a couple of slings. You'll also want a single 60m lead rope.
FA: Neil Monteith (led all pitches) & Macciza Macpherson, 2013 | 88m, 5, 2 | Scarface Buttress | ||||||||||||||||
21 | Bolts are Back!
Bolted arete starting from ground level, directly below the rap route. Sandy breaks make this quite unpleasant unless you scrub in advance on the way down the rap line. Start off rock step above ferns. Up subtle arete then right under roof then up flake crack to small ledge, then up to main ledge. Clip single RB but belay on DRB on the left edge of ledge. #2 Camalot and wires are vital to protect the top bit of this pitch. FA: Neil Monteith & Nick Le Baut, 2013 | 15m, 5 | Scarface Buttress | ||||||||||||||||
20 | ★★ Cuckoo Dove Crack
Splitter fingercrack on gorgeous orange rock on the right side of the main ledge, 2m right of Gravity. Overhangs at least a metre. Shared lower-off anchors with Gravity. FA: Neil Monteith & Nick Le Baut, 2013 | 15m | Scarface Buttress | ||||||||||||||||
24 | ★★ Neanderthal
Four really good pitches, all different and all on good quality rock. Double set of cams to #3 camalot size and single set of wires. Some slings and double ropes are highly recommended for pitches 1 & 2.
Set: Neil Monteith, 2013 FA: Neil Monteith (P1 & 4) Paul Thompson (P3), 2013 FA: Neil Monteith & Mike Law (P2), 2013 | 66m, 4 | Scarface Buttress | ||||||||||||||||
25 | ★★ Gravity
Nice orange rock and cool pockets. The bolted middle line on the main ledge, 4m right of Stop the Bolts! pitch 2. Faint flake weakness up face (3 RBs), then a couple of hand sized cams to finish up fragile flake crack. DRB anchors on the right, shared with Cuckoo Dove Crack. Might be 24 if you're tall. FA: Neil Monteith, 2013 | 15m, 3 | Scarface Buttress | ||||||||||||||||
24 | ★★ Neanderthal
Four really good pitches, all different and all on good quality rock. Double set of cams to #3 camalot size and single set of wires. Some slings and double ropes are highly recommended for pitches 1 & 2.
Set: Neil Monteith, 2013 FA: Neil Monteith (P1 & 4) Paul Thompson (P3), 2013 FA: Neil Monteith & Mike Law (P2), 2013 | 66m, 4 | Scarface Buttress | ||||||||||||||||
24 | ★★ Neanderthal
Four really good pitches, all different and all on good quality rock. Double set of cams to #3 camalot size and single set of wires. Some slings and double ropes are highly recommended for pitches 1 & 2.
Set: Neil Monteith, 2013 FA: Neil Monteith (P1 & 4) Paul Thompson (P3), 2013 FA: Neil Monteith & Mike Law (P2), 2013 | 66m, 4 | Scarface Buttress | ||||||||||||||||
Supporting theCrag is not only good for your Karma
it also gives you access to great benefits on theCrag and beyond. | |||||||||||||||||||
25 | ★★ Avian Abattoir
Weaves around the two monster roof sections on the left end of the cliff, with a lot more sideways climbing than up climbing. This route is mostly bolted, but requires a single set of cams for the upper pitches. A confident second is mandatory - bring prussics. Start about 40m left of Stop the Bolts! at ground level on top of triangular boulder. Look for ringbolts.
Set: Neil Monteith, 2013 FA: Neil Monteith (p1, p2 & p4) Paul Thompson (p3), 2013 | 84m, 4 | Scarface Buttress | ||||||||||||||||
22 | ★★ Kaboom
A rap-in, climb out sport pitch on steep featured rock. Neil spent 2 hours hiding in a cave during a thunder storm attempting to bolt this. To get to the rap point climb pitch 1 of Avian Abattoir to ledge. Move belay to 2nd set of anchors on right end of ledge. Rap off these anchors down overhung wall to hanging belay about 6m above the ground at super pockets. Climb pockets, left to flake then back right and up overhung wall to break. Reachy move to arete and up slab to anchors. Set: Neil Monteith, 2013 FA: Neil Monteith & Paul Thompson, 2013 | 17m, 7 | Scarface Buttress | ||||||||||||||||
22 | ★★ Terror Talon Traverse
Every cliff needs a girdle. The second pitch on this one is amazing. The first is currently terrifying and needs a bolt to make it less poo in your pants scary. Bring prussics for leader and second. Start on the left end of Main Ledge as for Stop the Bolts! pitch 2.
FA: Neil Monteith (led both pitches) & Paul Thompson, 2013 | 55m, 2, 4 | Scarface Buttress | ||||||||||||||||
25 | ★★ Avian Abattoir
Weaves around the two monster roof sections on the left end of the cliff, with a lot more sideways climbing than up climbing. This route is mostly bolted, but requires a single set of cams for the upper pitches. A confident second is mandatory - bring prussics. Start about 40m left of Stop the Bolts! at ground level on top of triangular boulder. Look for ringbolts.
Set: Neil Monteith, 2013 FA: Neil Monteith (p1, p2 & p4) Paul Thompson (p3), 2013 | 84m, 4 | Scarface Buttress | ||||||||||||||||
22 | ★★ Kaboom
A rap-in, climb out sport pitch on steep featured rock. Neil spent 2 hours hiding in a cave during a thunder storm attempting to bolt this. To get to the rap point climb pitch 1 of Avian Abattoir to ledge. Move belay to 2nd set of anchors on right end of ledge. Rap off these anchors down overhung wall to hanging belay about 6m above the ground at super pockets. Climb pockets, left to flake then back right and up overhung wall to break. Reachy move to arete and up slab to anchors. Set: Neil Monteith, 2013 FA: Neil Monteith & Paul Thompson, 2013 | 17m, 7 | Scarface Buttress | ||||||||||||||||
21 | ★★ Shattered Wing
Reachy arete climbing on trad - grade may go up if you're short. May get a first pitch at some stage - at the moment it is a rap in climb out single pitch. From anchors above Kaboom rap down the right side of the arete to belay at base of corner at tiny little footledge ledge and single FH (back it up with muedum cams to the left). Traverse left onto overhung arete (small cams in horizontal) then reachy move up arete (#4 camalot in break) then run it out up lovely orange rock to big pocket (#5 camalot) then fun little pockets and finish left onto the arete to anchors. FA: Paul Thompson & Neil Monteith, 2013 | 14m | Scarface Buttress |
Showing all 13 routes.