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Routes in East Face

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Showing all 47 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
Unknown year
21 Saviour Machine

Start 3m left of Canned Horsemeat. Climb the wall/flake/groove to ledge. 3 bolts to new U bolt anchors.

FA: Graeme Hill, Ant Prehn & Dave Thomas

Maint: Tim Booth, 2021

Sport 12m, 3 Mount Keira
18 JK

Cool layback at top

Sport 20m, 6 Mount Keira
24 PRO

Strenuous climb. Start 1m left of Ringwraith. Follw the overhung scoop out left along the weakness, passing ringbolts until back to vertical. Up wall to double ring belay. Unclear if this project was ever completed?

SportProject 12m, 1 Mount Keira
24 Dead Ahead

The small roof with an old bolt on the lip. Up to roof and traverse left to ledge then escape.

FA: Graeme Hill & Ant Prehn

Mixed trad 8m, 1 Mount Keira
13 Sacrilege

Staright up the chimney as for 'Death's Head' and keep going.

FA: Bill James

Trad 25m Mount Keira
14 M1 Andy

An old aid climb. Line of rusty carrots.

FA: Bill James

Aid 4 Mount Keira
11 M1 Hammer Head

The unpleasant corner crack. Up the crack using a hammer for aid. Still awaiting a free ascent!

FA: Graeme Hill & T.Ogle

Trad 10m Mount Keira
11 Manic Depressive

"you would have to be one to climb this rubbish" Start in the corner marked MD. Lots of scrub and funnel web spider webs. Up the groove.

FA: Nelson Brothers

Trad 20m Mount Keira
18 Grouples

A thin face crack. Start 3m to the left of Sacrilege. Up to the ledge past the bolt on the right. Up the arete on the left to get to the base of the crack. Climb the crack to the ledge. Climb the wall to the larger ledge and rap off.

FA: Ant Prehn, Dave Thomas & Graeme Hill

Trad 25m, 2 Mount Keira
20 Improving On Nature

Face climbing on ironstone edges. Up the wall with a tricky move down low. 4 rings to double ring belay.

FA: Mark Woodard

Sport 10m, 5 Mount Keira
17 Up Against The Wall

A face climb. Start 1m left of Manic Depressive on the wall. Climb the wall to double rings

FA: Graeme Hill, Russell Chudleigh & Ant Prehn

Maint: Tim Booth, 2021

Sport 12m, 4 Mount Keira
18 Fashion B

WhooHoo a chimney! Start 3m to the left of Grouples. Climb the chimney and off right to the ledge. Climb the crack to larger ledge and rap off.

FA: Graeme Hill & Russell Chudleigh

Trad 25m, 2 Mount Keira
11 Jay

Marked with a small faded 'J'. Climb the crack to the ledge. Move left to a double corner then climb to the top.

Trad 25m, 2 Mount Keira
17 Bog Spavin

4m to the left of Fashion B under the small roof with the corner crack. Up the corner past the rooves. Right to the ledge, climb the wall and rap of larger ledge.

FA: Graeme Hill & Jon Muir

Trad 25m, 2 Mount Keira
20 Mystery Achievements

The rock is pretty poor and the bolts badly need replacing! Leading this climb would get you into a maggot factory! Start 10m left of Warhol the shitty looking wall following the bolts to the lower off chain.

FA: Jon Muir, Ant Prehn & Dave Thomas

Sport 15m, 5 Mount Keira
14 Mangy Donkey

A nice crack. Starts left of Jay at the initials MD. Up the crack to the ledge, then follow the final moves of Jay.

FA: Nelson Brothers

Trad 25m, 2 Mount Keira
18 Magnesium Turkeynate (MgTO3)

A nice climb. Start left of Up Against The Wall. Tuff start and Climb the wall to double U anchors

FA: Graeme Hill & Russell Chudleigh

Maint: Tim Booth, 2021

Sport 10m, 3 Mount Keira
14 Wind Galls

3m left of Bog Spavin. The off-width corner. Climb the corner and rap off ledge.

FA: Graeme Hill & Russell Chudleigh

Trad 25m Mount Keira
20 Five Bolts To Nowhere

4m to the left of this climb there is an unfinished project that starts just off the small corner. The bolts are pretty sus and it would give 21 a solid nudge

SportProject 25m, 2 Mount Keira
15 Gourmet

One for us botanical minded! Start 2m left of Mangy Donkey in the right hand corner. Climb the corner.

FA: Bill James

Trad 25m Mount Keira
14 Chunder Crack

Start 3m left of Wind Galls at the cracks in the wall. Up the wall to tree, rap off.

FA: P.Muttlicker (?) & Russell Chudleigh

Unknown 25m Mount Keira
20 Hughes Spews

A climb for those addicted to adreneline! Start at the skinny crack. Up past the old creaking bolts.

FA: Graeme Hill & Ant Prehn

Trad 15m Mount Keira
20 Gallows Tree

8m left of Gourmet at the thin crack. Bouldery moves then up the crack to ledge. Right traverse to groove then up to next ledge. Final moves follow the bulgy off-width OR follow the crack at the far right of the ledge.

FA: Russell Chudleigh

Trad 25m, 3 Mount Keira
24 Frustrations

Start 2m left of MgTO3. Pull hard onto wall and move left towards the arete. Thin moves then easier to the top.

FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young

Maint: Tim Booth, 2021

Sport 10m, 3 Mount Keira
11 Competition

Start as for Chunder Crack. Climb the crack then up the steep wall. Climb arete and onto ledge. Climb the diagonal to the 'slot'. Groove to the right of the slot and swing out left onto a bushy ledge. Move right and up to the top.

FA: Graeme Hill & Ant Prehn

Trad 30m, 3 Mount Keira
17 Fools Rush In

A good climb to hone your human wedge skills. Climb the flared off-width groove. Start 3m to the left of Hughes Spews.

FA: Graeme Hill, Ant Prehn & Dave Thomas

Trad 15m Mount Keira
16 Windy

Start in the lefthand corner 3m left of Gallows Tree. Up the flake and to the ledge. Layback (crux) around the roof then up to ledge above. Your choice of the cracks above.

FA: Bill James

Trad 25m, 3 Mount Keira
19 Satan Sorrow

Start somewhere over near the lookout on the righthand side. The oversized jamb crack that starts above the smallish overhang. Over roof to the top.

FA: Graeme Hill & Russell Chudleigh

Trad 25m Mount Keira
23 The Crap Stops Here

Nice hard wall climbing. You'll need 5 of your brackets. Start to the left of the center of the wall, opposite Fools Rush In. Pull onto the wall and up the old bolts to the top.

Sport 17m, 4 Mount Keira
23 Canned Horsemeat

A classic route, full of overhanging jug work and medium small holds. Climb the overhung wall left of the arete. Out the roof and up the overhung arete to the halfway mark. Move left and out the up to the jugs above the last bolt, move right back to arete and finish up at the new U bolt anchors.

FA: Graeme Hill & Russell Chudleigh

Maint: Tim Booth, 2021

Sport 10m, 5 Mount Keira
17 Hammer Horror

A good first section if a little hard to find. The climb starts 3m left of Satan Sorrow. Climb up the crack in the corner to the ledge, good pro all the way. Up the chimney to top out

FA: Graeme Hill & Russell Chudleigh

Trad 25m, 2 Mount Keira
15 Bills Bumhole

We think its probably a 16. Here is the original description: The climb is unique in that you can get a rest (tsk tsk) by climbing up into a big black hole (fuck that!) in the roof before doing the crux. It is also unique in that it is probably the hardest 15 that you will ever climb. Start at the huge chimney at the left of The Crap Stops Here. Up the groove then go right when you get to the roof. Lots of rope drag (doubles are nice here).

FA: Jon Muir, Ant Prehn, Dave Thomas & Graeme Hill

Trad 25m Mount Keira
15 Sacrifice

The big chimney 10m left of Desperado. Climb the chimney until you're level with the traverse line. Traverse out to the right and belay at the smallish ledge with the rusty bolts. Continue right until you hit the groove of Desperado.

FA: Bill James & Russell Chudleigh

Trad 30m, 4 Mount Keira
20 M

Rings with clip-and-go anchor

Sport 15m, 6 Mount Keira
24 Ringwraith

The arete off the left bumcheek of Bills Bumhole. Up the steeply overhung juggy arete to where it eases off and the holds run out (the sphincter?!? LOL). Nice tech moves up to belay double rings

FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young

Sport 12m, 6 Mount Keira
14 Death's Head

" A typical death lead of Muir's ". Start as for Sacrifice. Up the chimney to the traverse line, then out to the bolt belay under the small corner. Head up the weakness through the overhangs to the ledge. Rap off.

FA: John Muir, Ant Prehn & Dave Thomas

Trad 25m, 2 Mount Keira
1980
20 Desperado

Start 4m left of Windy, under the overhanging corner. Up the corner to the smallish roof and traverse to the left to those jugs. Up to a belay in the groove. Follow the cracks up just right of the arete above the overhang and on up wall following your nose. Mixed trad route with carrots to start. The line of ringbolts left of the arete is a totally seperate route.

FA: Graeme Hill, Ant Prehn & Dave Thomas, 1980

Mixed trad 30m, 4, 10 Mount Keira
1989
25 Warhol

Worth doing if you have some skin you don't need! Start across the gully at the steep wall with the fallen boulder. Up onto the boulder then make a move to the pocket on the right, past the bolt. Crank left on crimpers and power to the diagonal flake. Crank up past the horizontals then onto the thin crack to the top.

FA: Ant Prehn, 1989

Maint: Tim Booth, 2021

Sport 12m, 4 Mount Keira
1999
21 Super Creeps

Starts just left of the starting corner of Desperado. Up the arete and wall passing 9 RBs to double RB anchors. Worth the deathwalk, or an easy long rap in on a spare rope.

FA: Rod Young & Alistair Fogg, 1999

Sport 28m, 9 Mount Keira
2021
21 Saviour Machine

Start 3m left of Canned Horsemeat. Climb the wall/flake/groove to ledge. 3 bolts to new U bolt anchors.

FA: Graeme Hill, Ant Prehn & Dave Thomas

Maint: Tim Booth, 2021

Sport 12m, 3 Mount Keira
25 Warhol

Worth doing if you have some skin you don't need! Start across the gully at the steep wall with the fallen boulder. Up onto the boulder then make a move to the pocket on the right, past the bolt. Crank left on crimpers and power to the diagonal flake. Crank up past the horizontals then onto the thin crack to the top.

FA: Ant Prehn, 1989

Maint: Tim Booth, 2021

Sport 12m, 4 Mount Keira
21 It's not a Tuna

Left of tree. Up to double rings. Feel free to use tree as aid, drop the grade by 10 tho..

FA: Tim Booth, 2021

Sport 12m, 3 Mount Keira
17 Up Against The Wall

A face climb. Start 1m left of Manic Depressive on the wall. Climb the wall to double rings

FA: Graeme Hill, Russell Chudleigh & Ant Prehn

Maint: Tim Booth, 2021

Sport 12m, 4 Mount Keira
24 Bangers & Pash

Start on the face right of warhol. climb up a few meters and transition to the right side of the arete. grit stone style climbing up to the shared anchor with warhol. (Keeping on the left side of the arete the whole way would be excellent and exciting / hard 27? Open project)

FA: Tim Booth, 2021

Sport 4 Mount Keira
18 Magnesium Turkeynate (MgTO3)

A nice climb. Start left of Up Against The Wall. Tuff start and Climb the wall to double U anchors

FA: Graeme Hill & Russell Chudleigh

Maint: Tim Booth, 2021

Sport 10m, 3 Mount Keira
24 Frustrations

Start 2m left of MgTO3. Pull hard onto wall and move left towards the arete. Thin moves then easier to the top.

FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young

Maint: Tim Booth, 2021

Sport 10m, 3 Mount Keira
23 Canned Horsemeat

A classic route, full of overhanging jug work and medium small holds. Climb the overhung wall left of the arete. Out the roof and up the overhung arete to the halfway mark. Move left and out the up to the jugs above the last bolt, move right back to arete and finish up at the new U bolt anchors.

FA: Graeme Hill & Russell Chudleigh

Maint: Tim Booth, 2021

Sport 10m, 5 Mount Keira

Showing all 47 routes.

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