Ascents in Namur as Working

Just one or two moves the rest is 6a material. I give it a maybe 12 attempts... next time. Not a great route IMO but entertaining roof and good falls.

A priori passage à droite des points au début

The rope fell perfectly to start working this one. Every try some new beta and slowly working my way through the crux. Good technical climbing, an ideal 7a candidate to work on.

Worked my way up solo on the top rope a coupe of times. The heat took the heart out of the last two attempts. Happy to have found beta for the first crux where I got hung up last time, it's funny that it's tall beta all the way, doesn't work for anyone shorter than 1m95 I think... But overall much work to do on conservative movements, balance and planned execution, not wasting energy on unstable positions. All but two or three clips look doable. The end of the route is spicy, I hardly get up to the anchor being tied in! There's this massive flake but it runs dry just short of the anchor, leaving you out of reach, with no obvious feet. I can imagine failing a redpoint attempt there. Also want to consult someone like Pé on the choreography I've come up with; I think it's too reachy and powerful.

Second weekend of working on 'Project Shana'. Put in two days of work; the holds are pretty small in the middle section (and below and above that too) so I get around three ascents done a day, lowering again to redo some sections or sometimes even lowering down to the first crux. I'm a bit afraid that my way through the first crux is off route, I started to put in and take out a draw while climbing,to see if my body position allows clipping and to ease into leading, but the first clip seems a bit weird and off, and I haven't really found a good position, then I move off to the left, about 1.5m, it works, it's hard, but it looks like off route... dunno. Figured out some pretty good new beta and starting feeling the choreogrpahy this weekend, my body leading rather then my mind steering. There's blood all over the middle section now, oops. With this heat and with this mental state it was the right place for me to be, alone, working on something physical.

Went to pick up the thread after a long absence Wednesday after work. The route stays pretty dry in the rain, or at least large parts are sheltered, some cracks show seepage. I worked to find some new beta in the crux section, but now my thoughts are the other way around: does more to the right actually stay better in the line of bolts? Maybe the first beta was okay? I dunno, it's not clear. Tried to work on finding good clipping positions in the second half, the top part went pretty well. I came up with a thought: 5the grade is all about learning the basic vocabulary, in the sixth grade you don't climb up unless you use the right set of more elaborate moves and starting from the seventh grade you really have to do things well enough in order not to be shut down by the pump. Good session!

Yes, I have clear beat now for all the sections. Some parts I do have to choose between different versions that work in order to find the most flowy, energy-efficient one. The crux now comes down to (1) lower crux with a tricky erop-of-erover move (2) Not being to pumped to clip the last three bolts and do the harder moves of the last section.

Classic route. Slightly polished but doable. Good hands till the overhang, there is the crux. Good hands, need to commit and go for it. Clean and good fall from there

I have the choreography down. There's two hard parts I think, and both have worked out in practice. Only putting it all together is lacking. Why did I end up with monos in my beta?!

Managed to top rope it clean and gave it several shots in lead, but the footwork near the crux needs to be very precise. It's a nice project and I'm looking forward to a clean lead send.