Ascents in Beez as Flash

Toproped it after failing it lead.

Bolts all on the left side of the chimney. First bolt is an old style ring – quite close to the ground. Other bolts are all glue-ins. Second bolt is quite high.

Pieter and Filippo climbed it before me – while I was working Tribitotechnique (route to the left of Les bonbons).

Pieter slinged a dyneema runner (60cm) to a rock between the first and second bolt for added protection. I felt secure enough not to.

Comfortable chimney. Width is such that you can fit in easily and be able to press your back against one wall and put both feet and hands up against the other wall for most of the way up the chimney. Chimney opens up in the second half of the route.

Earmarked the ascend 'flash' because I saw snippets of Filippo and Pieter climbing the route.

30 Years ago this must have been of stunning beauty, now the polishedness of it makes it a bit less aesthetic. The polished start doesn't allow for very elegant climbing IMO, unless you're super comfortable at this grade. But the rest of the route makes up for the (nonetheless choreographically impressive) start, and I just love long sustained routes. Pieter got the brain chills halfway through; good practice material.

I had read the second pitch to be 6-something and it felt like that but maybe not anyway nice long climb, great fun. Had a chat with Vicky on the way up. The first 10m were hard for me to read and execute. I downclimbed three tims or so to a perfect rest. Eerlijk duurt het langst/de aanhouder wint?

Kobe's eerste lead.