Showing all 39 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
IXa | |||||
South face Totem East Face of Totem | |||||
IXa | Cocoricó
Shares first 3 bolts with "Urubu à Vista" and then goes right and up to join "Urubu à Vista" again at the end of first pitch. | 30m | |||
6° VIIc AID:A1 | |||||
South face Totem South Face of Totem | |||||
6° VIIc AID:A1 | ★★★ Lagartão
One of the most classic routes in Rio de Janeiro. Extremely varied 300m mixed climb with trad and bolts. A hard face, hard crack, and fun chimney climbing.
Take large pieces of gear and medium cams - number 1 camalot to a number 4 for the first pitch; the rest of the route is bolted, but run out. FA: Luis Belivacqua, Alex Pereira, George White & Jean Pierre, 1972 | 280m, 9 | |||
North face | |||||
6° VIIc AID:A1 | ★★★ Waldemar Guimaraes
This route is a chimney and is absolutely beautiful. Very characteristic of Rio and of Pao de Acucar. It is a long route, but can be done in a few hours if you are climbing well. Due to the wandering nature of the route it is best to have a topo/guidebook. After making your way through the forest look for a couple of bolts leading to a hand crack and then a huge face above. Take 16 draws and slings. Set: Waldemar Guimaraes, Maurício Mota & Mário Arnaud, 1983 | 300m, 10 | |||
6° VIIc E3 D3 AID:A1 | |||||
West face | |||||
6° VIIc E3 D3 AID:A1 | O Pão que o Diabo Amassou
Ends at the last pitch of "Cisco Kid". Need to take cliff hangers, small to medium stoppers and some micro-friends. Set: Ralf Côrtes, Rafael & "Ducha", 2000 | 200m, 6 | |||
7° VIIc | |||||
South face Totem West Face of Totem | |||||
7° VIIc | Limiar da Loucura
Starts from Largatão, crossing left to reach the west face of the Toten. Take a full rack of cams and stoppers. | 100m | |||
VIIc | |||||
South face Totem South Face of Totem | |||||
VIIc | Variant Senhor dos Anéis
Needs micro-friends, cams from 1/2 to 2 1/2, and medium to large stoppers. Starts after "Variant Dança das Cabeças", taking the crack to the left of the main route. | 15m | |||
South face Totem West Face of Totem | |||||
VIIc | As Lacas Também Amam
Mixed climb (trad on 2nd pitch). Continues from "Limiar das Lacas" going right, left and then right again to reach the latter part of "Limiar da Loucura". Take small to medium cams and stoppers. | 50m, 2 | |||
6° VIIb | |||||
South face Totem East Face of Totem | |||||
6° VIIb | Xeque-mate
Starts on the ledge where the aid climbing of Lagartão begins and finishes linking with Chaminé Gallotti. First and last pitches all on trad. Take a full rack of cams and stoppers. Abseiling is only possible using 2 ropes.
| 170m, 6 | |||
6° VIIb E2 D1 | |||||
North face | |||||
6° VIIb E2 D1 | Noites de Brigadeiro
Set: Luis Cláudio "Pita", Silvio Neto & Tadeu Scaf, 2004 | 110m | |||
6° VIIb E2 D2 | |||||
West face | |||||
6° VIIb E2 D2 | Cisco Kid
Nice and a bit more exposed/run out than the "Via dos Italianos" or "Cavalo Louco".
Take 10 quickdraws. End of 2nd pitch is on the same ledge as CEPI. Set: Luis Cláudio "Pita", Marco Vidon, Sérgio Tartari & Marcelo Braga, 1988 | 230m, 6 | |||
VIIb | |||||
South face Totem East Face of Totem | |||||
VIIb | Variant Olho Vivo
Needs a couple of big pieces (#4 cams) and some smaller ones (1 and 1.5). Starts one bolt before the first ledge in "Chaminé Gallotti" and goes to "Variant Faro Fino". | 20m | |||
VIIb | ★★ Urubu à Vista
Mixed. Take full rack of cams and stoppers. Starts to the right of the base of "Lagartão".
| 65m, 2 | |||
6° VIIa E2 D4 AID:A1 | |||||
North face | |||||
6° VIIa E2 D4 AID:A1 | ★★★ Ibis
Set: Felix Kuen, Werner Hain, Otto Lorenz & Hannes Gasser, 1972 | 360m, 10 | |||
5° VIIa E2 D3 | |||||
North face | |||||
5° VIIa E2 D3 | ★★★ Secundo Costa Neto
A route from the "North face"[1613256762] that finishes up the "West face" and that is usually used as a continuation of the popular "Via dos Italianos" route on the West face. This route begins in a squeeze chimney, then moves out onto the north west face of 'Pao de Acucar'. It is bolt protected, but is far from a sport climbing. The style is very characteristic of the area and it is a great route. After reaching the shoulder between Pao de Acucar and Urca, head towards the north face of the formation. Secundo starts in the obvious dihedral/chimney. Take 15 draws including several long runners. FA: Patrick White, Laercio Martins, George White & Tadeusz Hollup, 1957 | 250m, 10 | |||
6° VIIa E2 D1 | |||||
North face | |||||
6° VIIa E2 D1 | Caixinha de Surpresa
Set: Alexandre Portela & Luis Cláudio "Pita", 1988 | 130m | |||
6° VIIa E2 D2 | |||||
West face | |||||
6° VIIa E2 D2 | ★★★ Pássaros de Fogo
To get to the base, you'll need to go down about 50m from the start of "CEPI" following a track along the margins of the mountain.
Take 12 quickdraws. There's a variant coming out of the 2nd anchors - the original goes right and finishes on a ledge; the variant goes kind of straight up, missing the ledge and heading straight to the next set of anchors. If you choose to take the variant, make sure your rope is long enough (60m). The variant is usually taken when the original is a bit wet because of the bushy ledge. The variant is a bit harder as well, rating VIsup Brazilian grading. Set: Sérgio Tartari, André Ilha & David Austin, 1983 | 190m, 5 | |||
VIIa | |||||
South face Totem East Face of Totem | |||||
VIIa | Variant Faro Fino
All trad. 1 set of cams. Starts about 4m before the final ledge of "Variant Kid" and goes towards the ledge of "Lagartão". | 30m | |||
South face Totem South Face of Totem | |||||
VIIa | Variant Gandalf
Full rack of cams. To the left of "Variant Senhor dos Anéis". | 10m | |||
VIIa E2 | |||||
South face Tetos | |||||
VIIa E2 | Não Sou Boneco de Woodoo
| 12m | |||
VIIa E2/3 | |||||
Contraforte | |||||
VIIa E2/3 | Recruta Zero
| 25m | |||
6° VIsup E3 D5 AID:A3 | |||||
North face | |||||
6° VIsup E3 D5 AID:A3 | Contra Pino
Set: Alexandre Portela, Luis Makoto, Fernando Barberá & Sergio Tartari, 1988 | 450m | |||
4° VIsup E2 | |||||
Contraforte | |||||
4° VIsup E2 | Sargento Pincel
| 45m | |||
5° VIsup D2 | |||||
West face | |||||
5° VIsup D2 | ★★★ Cavalo Louco
Mostly done on bolts, but cams and stoppers needed for the first 20m of the first pitch (small to medium cams or medium to large stoppers). It finishes at the anchors of the 5th pitch of "Secundo Costa Neto" and from there you can reach the summit in another 3 pitches (making it a total of 270m). You can combine pitches 2, 3 and 4 into 2 pitches. The start is at a crack a just left of the start of the famous "Via dos Italianos" route.
One of the nicest climbs on the Sugar Loaf! Some fairly long run-outs between bolts by modern standards. Take long slings to help with rope drag. Some of the belays on this route are off one bolt. Set: Juarez Fogaça, André Sant'Anna & Sérgio Poyares, 1984 | 130m, 4 | |||
5° VIsup E3 D3 | |||||
North face | |||||
5° VIsup E3 D3 | Argus
Set: Giovanni Tartari, Jorge Gomes & Sergio Tartari, 1981 | 530m | |||
6° VIsup | |||||
South face Coringa Sector | |||||
6° VIsup | ★★★ Ás de Espadas
A 130m classic face climb on the south face of Pao de Acucar; a techy face on tiny little crimps and smears. This route is the third obvious line through the vegetation from the right.
11 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners. FA: Antonio Carlos Magalhaes, Paulo 'Bruxo' Ferreira & Ricardo de Moraes | 130m, 4 | |||
VIsup | |||||
South face Totem South Face of Totem | |||||
VIsup | Tico-tico Nervoso
Full rack of cams and medium stoppers. Starts half way through "Variant Dança das Cabeças" taking it further to the right, with a horizontal section linking it to "Urubu à Vista". | 60m | |||
4° VI | |||||
East face | |||||
4° VI | ★★ Iemanjá, Paredão
Localização: Pão de Açúcar - Urca ( Rio de Janeiro ) Conquistadores: André Ilha, José Luiz Lozada e Renato Souto Ano: 1979 Um verdadeiro passeio pelo Pão de Açúcar com um visual pouco conhecido da maioria dos escaladores. A base da via é comum ao Paredão Atlanta, só que ambas as vias possuem uma grampeação longa em alguns trechos (como no início) então é necessária muita atenção para não errar: O Paredão Atlanta sai em DIAGONAL e o Iemanjá em HORIZONTAL, ambas para direita. obs: para chegar na base siga junto a pedra após as outras vias desta face (Bohemia, Heineken, Chaminé Pão de Açúcar...) No caso do Paredão Iemanjá a via passa numa faixa de pedra entre os gravatás, seguindo para a direita sempre (atenção: vai haver uma descida no meio da horizontal que é ruim pro participante, estudar possibilidade de um mini-rapell). A referencia para começar a subir (onde começa o croqui do André Ilha) é um grampo de 5/8". Após o crux a via segue por um grande trecho de mato para cima, faz uma diagonal sem grampos para a direita (2°) até atingir um platô gigante com árvores = caminhada. Isso não está bem representado no croqui e certamente será confuso para quem não conhece. Não entre nessa via se houver possibilidade de chuva, o rapell pode não ser possivel nessas condições... O grampo antes do crux, depois da horizontal, está com a solda do tarugo e olhal próximo a pedra em avançado grau de corrosão. Recomendo usar a fita com boca de lobo no tarugo. Set: 1979 | ||||
5° VI | |||||
South face Totem East Face of Totem | |||||
5° VI | ★★★ Chaminé Gallotti
280m trad route. It's worth taking 2 ropes in case an abseil is needed. Take at least one large cam (#4) and some large stoppers.
| 250m, 7 | |||
VI | |||||
South face Totem East Face of Totem | |||||
VI | Variant Esqueceram de Mim
Needs a couple of #3 and #1 cams and stoppers. Starts at the start of "Variant Kid" and goes towards "Xeque-mate". | 30m | |||
4° V | |||||
South face Coringa Sector | |||||
4° V | Ursinho de Pelúcia
Take 10 quickdraws. | 110m, 3 | |||
V | |||||
South face Totem South Face of Totem | |||||
V | Variant Dança das Cabeças
Needs medium cams. Starts from start of second pitch of "Lagartão", the thin crack to the right of belay. | 10m | |||
V E2 | |||||
North face | |||||
V E2 | Diedro Nada Contra
Set: Nilton Campos & André Kühner, 2005 | 20m | |||
IVsup E2 | |||||
North face | |||||
IVsup E2 | Variante Por Favor Não Grampeie
Variante de: Waldo Set: Flavio Daflon & Delson de Queiroz, 1993 | 25m | |||
IV | |||||
South face Totem East Face of Totem | |||||
IV | ★★★ Variant Kid
Connects "Chaminé Gallotti" and "Lagartão". Starts from half way of the 3rd pitch of "Chaminé Gallotti", after the first chimney section, moving on the ledge all the way to the left and taking the corner crack up till you reach the ledge at the end of 2nd pitch of "Lagartão". Take medium stoppers and cams. | 30m | |||
{US} 5.7 | |||||
East face | |||||
{US} 5.7 | ★★★ Costão
This is a long scramble up the east face of Pao de Acucar. There is a 30m section of vertical 5.7 about half way up the face. It's fairly straight forward, but is technical climbing. Take some draws and a short rope for the crux. FA: Henrietta Casteirs, 1817 | ||||
2° IIIsup E2/3 | |||||
East face | |||||
2° IIIsup E2/3 | ★★★ Bohemia Gelada
2° IIIsup E2/E3 | 230m | |||
3° IIIsup | |||||
South face Totem West Face of Totem | |||||
3° IIIsup | ★★★ Chaminé Stop
The chimney that runs up the left side of the Totem formation on the south face of Pao de Acucar. Route is bolted but only sparsely (no more than 3 to 4 bolts per pitch). Sometimes hard to see/find them, so good route finding skills are necessary, although it's mostly straight forward. At 3rd belay station make sure to go right from the ledge/tree. To the left is a variant graded at 5o A1 in the Brazilian grade system.
FA: Rolf Vegelle, Silvio Mendes & Guido Vegelle, 1944 | 280m, 7, 23 | |||
2° III YDS:5.5 FR:3c | |||||
East face | |||||
2° III YDS:5.5 FR:3c | ★★ Heineken
Located on the gently-sloping east face of the mountain, Heineken is a great route for first-time and beginner climbers who want to climb to the top of Sugarloaf. Best done in the afternoon. 3 hours to summit | 210m | |||
II | |||||
South face Coringa Sector | |||||
II | Escadinha de Jacó
Used as a shortcut for the "Costão"[2476002666] track and therefore commonly soloed. Starts at a streak of basalt on the wall. First bolt is at 15m high. |
Showing all 39 routes.