Routes as sport in Outaouais

Climb Sausages and keep climbing straight after the third draw on crimps.

1-pitch from the mid-cliff anchor (which is also the end anchor for Pelennor") to the anchor. Doesn't top-out the cliff.

Starts left from the anchor.

Climb up trending consistently left up the face on good holds, until you pull onto a short slab. Finish directly up to the anchor above the next short face.

Starts about half way between the end of the approach rope and the corner.

Climb past two bolts to a small ledge, then past one more to the anchors below the Juniper bush.

Short, but sweet.

Starts at the far right side of the cliff section, at a belayer bolt. Start up over a couple small ledges to a shallow scooped slab, then continue up this to the horizontal break. At the break, step left a couple meters, crossing the line of "Apéritif", to below some left-facing rails on the upper face. Climb up this harder face to finish.

Climb the bolted face between Direttissisma and Peggy. Traditionally the large block to the right is considered off route.

Starts on top of a juniper bush below and right of a square groove through a small bulge about 4m up.

Climb up on to the slab and angle left to the square groove. Climb up this towards the obvious arete, and at the end of the groove step left onto the slab below the arete. Continue up the slab left of the arete to the anchors.

Once finished this climb, it is easy to lower or rappel to the bench and safety rope at the top of it.

A bit isolated from the other climbs -- nothing else on its section.

Start up steep blocky terrain to a slab arete.

Stick clip the second bolt and consider extending the draws on bolt 3.

Starts about 4m left of "Nightcap".

Climb onto the short slab, then up the steep rock on good holds to finish up the slab above; anchor is below a boulder.

Close-bolted and a good beginner lead.

Starts just left of Giggles through an overhang. Then through a shelf and up the slab. Opening sequence pulling the bulge is 10a, into sustained less-than-vertical 5.8 climbing.

Anchor accessible from the top if you sling one of the cedars for safety to step down to it.

Start as per Stairway to Hell, then follow bolts up the slab heading slightly right. Anchor can be accessed from above if you sling the birch as a safety to step down.

Recleaned Fall 2023.

Just right of the deep undercut head up straight then a bit left toward short arete (or start straight up onto the arete for a super hard alternative). Keep heading up over easier ground to a hard and steep finish along the arete on the right of the slab.

Belle longueur soutenue.

Short cruxy, powerful Short beta video if needed

https://youtu.be/SPLzu0YqvzA

Very easy climbing to a high first bolt (optional gear) leads to super cool campus moves across a steep wall. Ultra classic for the grade.

Start on the right side of a short arete (Stick clip the first bolt). From the top of the arete continue over easier terrain to a small roof at the bottom of a huge block. Pull onto the ledge/bulge to the right, then climb straight up to the bolted anchor.

Climb up the dihedral to the right of Alakazoo. When you get to the roof go out right to the anchor.

Shares an anchor with 'Wild Fire'

Climb up the bolt line on the right side of the face until the ledge (after the 5th bolt, where the route becomes far steeper and thinner), then traverse left and continue up the bolts for the left route, finally veering right again to finish on the anchor for the right bolt line.

Starts off the ledge a few meters right of Indecision...

Pull up onto the dark-stained rock, then climb past a mixture of short steep sections, ledges, and slabs.

Probably about 5.6.

Bolt line to the left up the cliff.

First bolt is high, consider a stick clip, or traverse in from the the corner to the right to get the clip, then re-start with it clipped.

just left of Pieta de roma, short and powerful. Back in those days this was done without using holds from Pieta de roma. Perfectly alright if you want to use them!

Start off the ground not the boulder for full value. (Make sure your belayer is paying attention between 2nd and 3rd bolt)

Classic line but stick clip to second bolt to avoid a bad fall!

Follow the black streak on the right edge of the slab just right of where the rising overlap starts. Interesting moves on finger pockets and small holds for most of it. The climb is fairly consistent with some spots to rest though.

Can be accessed from the top by rappelling down from the Little Lion Face anchor.

In the middle of the low overhang is a small notch. Pull up through the notch on small holds to easier going on the slab above. Continue up to the next roof above, and pull over that as well.

Might still want a bit more cleaning on the upper section

6 bolts to anchor, 7 to top-out anchor.

New sport route in the middle section, start as 'No Heroes' then head left following the bolts

Climb on vertical wall to spicy finish

The climb starts on the left side of the wall. It has a bouldery start followed by a rest at bolt two. Moderate climbing leads to bolt three with another difficult sequence between bolt three and four. It is recommended to stick clip the first bolt.

hard crux to finish on easier climbing

for Beta of the crux video here

https://youtu.be/0jvUKTaHlq8

Can you say "Dyno?"

Follow the base of cliff from Arnor for about 100 m (First a bit steeply down, then straight along the base of the cliff). Look for the first line of bolts, up a slab, then over a slight overhang and more slab to a steep finish. Starts at about 5.7 and gets progressively harder to the 5.10b finish.

Start a few meters right of the access trail, up a set of glue-ins.

Start up easy slab to steeper terrain, pull over the bulge to anchors.

Just left of Mercy Street. Tricky boulder problem to start until you get a good hold. You may think that start is harder than 5.9 but when you figure it out it all makes sense. Then head for the overhanging section above. Gain the ledge and continue on the upper face to the bolted anchor.

1. 9 bolts

2. 13 bolts

start on anti gravity and move little left after 4th bolt to finish on easier climbing

Around the right side of Corruption buttress is a short slab with a bolted anchor at the top. This route goes up the left side -- easy going to the one bolt, then a few moves.

So fun it's addictive. You'll definitely have to get a bit tweaked for this one.

Climb a few thin slab moves to the diagonal crack (crux). Keep moving up until your feet are in the diagonal crack then walk up along the crack with some creative climbing. Reach from the crack to the windowsill ledge, clip the final bolt, and move back left to the anchor.

Start working up the crack on the right side of the wall, then transfer onto the slab, and move to the anchor.

After the 4th bolt of The Beast, step right to the anchors of True Grit.

for beta video see here

https://youtu.be/zMenaaKCoOo

The longest route at Down Under, The Beast is also the most difficult free climb in the area and, at the time it was first climbed (1998), one of the hardest in the province. Its line is dictated by the elegant prow overlooking the steepest section of the crag. this climbing is harder if short

Right-most bolted climb. Head up a short wall, then over the very distinctive wide crack into the thin slab section. Gain the overlap near the top to finish on easier ground to the anchor.

Obvious bolt line that goes up the face just left of "Epinephrine".

Finish on price of business. Easier finish

Follow the right side of the arete. Rappel anchors at top.

Climb the arete and mantel your way up to the bolt anchors. One cam after the first bolt is probably a good idea, and will protect you from a groundfall while clipping the 2nd bolt, but isn't absolutely necessary.

Bolts to the right of Headstone, shares anchors with it.

Short and Powerful

Around the right side of Corruption buttress is a short slab with a bolted anchor at the top. This route goes up the right side, the side with 2 bolts.

The right side of the slab. Successive small ledges, delicate moves. Belay at the top of Primordial Soup.

Slab and right-facing groove (where a big block came out).

At the upper left end of the cliff is a small steep face. Start on a boulder in the middle of the stream. Anchors at top.

7 bolts. Go direct through the roof. Roof has a glue in bolt.

Climb thin cracks and small holds to the anchors.

start on malzheit and after the crux move little right to finish on anti gravity. more sustained

Really nice boulder problem crux! (you can link up the start of Original route and the end of this one for a nice 5.10b)

Start on Slovak just left of the beast but traverse Right (aftet 2nd bolt)to finish on Anchors of true grit

Climb on good holds, a good introduction to steeper (slightly overhanging) terrain.

1. (5.9) Follow the left line of bolts up a slab to a 2-bolt station. (8 bolts)
2. (5.9) Continue up as the route slightly steepens to the top. Can be combined with a 60m rope and 17 draws.

Between Original Route and the Great Dihedral, there is a line of glue-in bolts up a black water streak to an imposing looking head wall.

Climb the easy, but run-out slab to the head wall. Pull the hard moves up the wall, to easier ground above.

Descent option: from the top anchor, rappel on two ropes. Or, traverse leftwards to the anchor at the end of the 2nd pitch of Rocketman, and rappel Rocketman. Or climb up & leftwards (very easy: free solo or trad gear) to the top anchors of Rocketman and rappel Rocketman.

climb true grit and finish on anchor of the beast

Start on Pieta de Roma and finish on your wife. Little zig zag but different, move right after 1st bolt.

1. (5.7) Follow the right line of bolts up a slab to a two bolts station (8 bolts)
2. (5.9) Continue on past 8 more bolts to the top. Can be combined with a 60m rope and enough draws.

An obvious huge roof can be seen above this climb. The route follows a diagonal line of bolts up to a ledge and small tree. Notice "Pascal hole" on the way up.

Starts to the left of Direttissisma for the first three bolts and then finishes on the same anchor.

This climb is the line of glue-in bolts up the face that is in front of you as you come up the approach trail.

Start up the easy slab, to the first overhang. After pulling the first overhang, the climb is a bit run-out along easier ground to the 2nd overhang (crux). Pull this to lower-offs.

Starting on technical extasy for a few moves then move right to smaller holds and line of bolts.

Up the middle of the slab, directly beneath a cedar tree. Small crystals, tricky footwork.

Climb the face to the left of the waterfall.

Up the initial overhanging section, step right, then up the thin slab and arete above.

Looks to be significantly harder than the (historical?) 5.10a grade.

Climb a system of flake cracks going slightly left, past some (unnecessary?) bolts, to the top.

Right of Big Joe, Climb the first 3 bolts of the project line to finish on the anchors of Diddler in the Roof. Starting hold is high (7 feet?), Hard boulder problem to start. Crimpy

Starts behind a half-dead tree. Climb the thin face past three bolts to the anchor shared with "Colonel Buckets".

This climb ascends the slightly overhanging middle part of the cliff. Small flakes, crucial footwork. Anchors at the top.

Top-rope the general line of the right arete of the face. Easier further right.

Directly up the short left face of Mouse Eater, past two bolts.

Shares first bolt of Big Joe and then goes left.

Climb salut Steve and then do a v10/11 boulder problem to the next set of anchors.

Anchors at top.

This is most likely impossible. In the overhang there is no real hold for a stretch of 10 feet. Good luck! Maybe first V16 on rope in Canada

An unfinished project (bolts still missing in the upper part). Anchors at top.

Right of Big Joe! High starting hold (7 feet?) PROJECT

Climb through roof Alcatraz and then the extension to the next set of anchors. Some very small crimps after the first set of anchors.

A bolted project in the steepest part of the marble outcrop in the left part of the cliffs.

Around the corner from Living Dead is this short route, following the left arete of a small face. Top-out and rappel off a pine tree -- or down climb the gully to climber's right.

Climb up a set of thin vertical cracks right of Wish You Were Here. Anchors.

Start atop a boulder. Climb the thin finger crack past some bolts (possibly missing hangars).

The face right of Revelations. Again, no top anchors -- same choices with same tree.