Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Unknown | |||||||||
7+ |
Wilgartswiesener Weg
![]() | 6 | Westpfalz | Sun 22nd Aug 2010 | |||||
only first pitch
|
|||||||||
5.11a |
Direkteinstieg
![]() | Westpfalz | Average | 2000 | |||||
7 |
★★★ Abm-Pfeiler
![]() | Oberharz | ★★★ Classic | Sun 28th Aug 2016 | |||||
7- |
★ Rappelkiste
![]() | Westpfalz | ★ Good | Sun 6th May 2018 | |||||
7- |
★ Seifenschachtelweg
![]() | Westpfalz | ★ Good | Sun 27th May 2018 | |||||
7 |
★★ Zwischenlösung
![]() | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Sun 3rd Jun 2018 | |||||
7- |
El Folzo (El Folzlo)
![]() | Westpfalz | Sun 16th Jun 2019 | ||||||
8- |
★ Höllenfahrt
![]() | Westpfalz | ★ Good | Sat 16th Nov 2019 | |||||
Scary
Only till the 6th anchor. We didn't know where it tops out and it felt dangerous without any bolts... |
|||||||||
8- |
★ Höllenfahrt
![]() | Westpfalz | ★ Good | Sat 16th Nov 2019 | |||||
Cold and scary...
|
|||||||||
7+ |
Hirschels Alptraum
![]() | Westpfalz | Sun 3rd Oct 2021 | ||||||
Feisty stuff. great and deeply focused second by Pernilla
|
|||||||||
3 |
★★★ Kleiner Südriss
![]() | Westpfalz | ★★★ Classic | Sat 5th Mar 2022 | |||||
4 |
★★ Große Südverschneidung
![]() | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Sat 5th Mar 2022 | |||||
8- |
Tabu
![]() | Westpfalz | Wed 4th May 2022 | ||||||
Uiuiui das war spannend
|
|||||||||
8- |
Direkter Strich
![]() | Westpfalz | Wed 4th May 2022 | ||||||
7+ |
★★ Reibekuchen
![]() | Westpfalz | Sun 8th May 2022 | ||||||
7+ |
★★ Reibekuchen
![]() | Westpfalz | Sun 8th May 2022 | ||||||
7 |
★★ Trüffelträume
![]() | Westpfalz | Sun 8th May 2022 | ||||||
7- |
Bruchstück
![]() | Westpfalz | Mon 16th May 2022 | ||||||
8+ |
★★★ Zeitmaschine
![]() | Westpfalz | Mon 16th May 2022 | ||||||
7- |
★★ Lineal
![]() | Westpfalz | Sat 28th May 2022 | ||||||
7- |
Matrix
![]() | Westpfalz | Sun 30th Apr 2023 | ||||||
8 |
Miraculix
![]() | Westpfalz | Sun 30th Apr 2023 | ||||||
8 |
Schlenkerle Direkt
![]() | Westpfalz | Sun 30th Apr 2023 | ||||||
7- |
★★ Lineal
![]() | Westpfalz | Thu 2nd Jun 2022 | ||||||
8+ |
Streckbank
![]() | Westpfalz | Sat 27th May 2023 | ||||||
7+ ~8- |
Im Zentrum
![]() | Westpfalz | Sat 27th May 2023 | ||||||
8 ~8+ |
★★★ Talwand
![]() | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Sat 3rd Jun 2023 | |||||
7 |
★★ Abseilwand
![]() | Westpfalz | Fri 9th Jun 2023 | ||||||
6 |
★★★ Oktoberweg
![]() | Westpfalz | ★★★ Classic | Sat 29th Jul 2023 | |||||
Heute nur im Nachstieg drin
|
|||||||||
8+ |
★★ Kreuz Bube
![]() | Westpfalz | Sun 1st Aug 2021 | ||||||
9- ~9 |
★★ Big Easy
![]() | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Mon 1st Apr 2024 | |||||
A horizontal roof with good holds, the crux are the two smaller holds above the roof to the anchor. I climbed it with one break to the top hold in my second try but can't imagine being able to clip the chain from there after the climbing below. I also didn't manage to reach the upper edge which would offer better holds
|
|||||||||
8- |
★★ Nach All den Jahren
![]() | Westpfalz | ★★★ Classic | Mon 1st Apr 2024 | |||||
The mossy slab at the start was completely wet but I got up without slipping fortunately. I already did not onsight the first hard part above the slab which is supposedly 7+ (and well protected). I did it after hanging in the rope a bit further to the right on black slopers and small stones jutting out of the wall. The 8- branches off the 7+ to the left to very nice honeycomb-like structures in an overhang. This last part has no particular hard moves but requires power endurance.
|
|||||||||
9 Hard |
★★★ Kathedrale Des Erotischen Elends
![]() | Westpfalz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 5th Apr 2024 | |||||
Absolutely amazing face climbing on small sloping pockets. I actually did not do one move because I didn't try for too long (I attempted a Houdini match with one finger in a relatively good pocket which I couldn't do, but there certainly is a better solution). I could do the other moves relatively quickly but the main difficulty of the route is the endurance. In the upper part of the main feature (a smooth wall with the typical honeycomb pockets which are quite small in this case), there are two bolts which are quite far apart (about 5 meters), and the climbing is not that easy (I did onsight this part, though, so it's also not extremely hard). I definitely felt the exposure there.
|
|||||||||
7+ ~8- |
★★ Reibekuchen
![]() | Westpfalz | ★★★ Classic | Fri 5th Apr 2024 | |||||
Der Einstieg zum ersten Haken ist ziemlich sportlich. Am besten den ersten Haken mit Clip-Stick vorclippen. Man geht von dem linken guten Untergriff und dem rechten hohen schlechten Untergriff direkt hoch an ein Henkelband. Von da muss man an teils schlechten Griffen noch einige Meter weiter zu einem mittelguten Henkel. Von dem muss man noch hochstehen um links den Haken überhaupt erreichen zu können. Nicht ideal! Gerade für Leute die nicht 2 Grade schwerer klettern können. Shame on you Pfälzer Kletter Moral
|
|||||||||
8 ~8+ |
★★★ Talwand
![]() | Westpfalz | ★★★ Classic | Sat 6th Apr 2024 | |||||
It was so hot in the full sun that I didn't want to try again.
|
|||||||||
Trad | |||||||||
8+ 8+/9- |
Sichelriss
![]() | 12 | Sauerland | Fri 16th Apr 2021 | |||||
6+ |
★★ Efeuverschneidung (Efeuverschneidung Linkup Direkter Rissaustieg)
![]() | 66m, 11 | Donautal | ★★★ Classic | Fri 25th Sep 2015 | ||||
6+ |
★★ Efeuverschneidung
![]() | 66m, 11 | Donautal | Mon 1st May 2023 | |||||
6 |
Himmelfahrtsriss (Himmelfahrtsriss P1)
![]()
1
6
| 50m, 9 | Donautal | Don't Bother | Sun 22nd Jun 2014 | ||||
Good but very dirty holes.
|
|||||||||
6+ |
★ Stösserkante
![]() | 50m, 9 | Donautal | ★ Good | Wed 8th Jul 2015 | ||||
Because of the polished start of the route one of my feet slipped away and I fall. So no onsight ascent for this one.
|
|||||||||
8 |
★★★ Jahreswechsel
![]() | 9 | Westpfalz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 11th Jun 2020 | ||||
Was eine Tour. Einstiegsplatte, folgende mit einer steilen Lochwandpassage und pumpiges Henkelfinale mit weiten Zügen. Im Finale Flugstunden gesammelt.
|
|||||||||
8 |
★★★ Jahreswechsel
![]() | 9 | Westpfalz | ★★★ Classic | Mon 24th May 2021 | ||||
8 |
★★★ Jahreswechsel
![]() | 9 | Westpfalz | ★★★ Classic | Mon 24th May 2021 | ||||
8 |
★★★ Jahreswechsel
![]() | 9 | Westpfalz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 24th May 2021 | ||||
Auch dieses Jahr gibt es hier richtig eins aufs Maul. Ein richtig schwerer 8er.Ein Must Do in der Pfalz.
|
|||||||||
8 |
★★★ Jahreswechsel
![]() | 9 | Westpfalz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 24th May 2021 | ||||
7- ~7+ |
Himmelfahrtsriss
![]() | 50m, 9 | Donautal | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Jun 2023 | ||||
Am Anfang verstiegen: man bleibt im Riss bzw. Kamin und geht dann erst nach rechts.
Für mich deutlich härter, war froh im Nachstieg (überhaupt) oben an zu kommen |
|||||||||
6+ |
★★ Knotenweg (Knotenweg P1)
![]()
1
6+
lead by
Kai K
| 50m, 8 | Donautal | ★★ Very Good | Wed 12th Jun 2013 | ||||
6+ |
★★ Knotenweg (Knotenweg P1)
![]()
1
| 50m, 8 | Donautal | ★★ Very Good | Thu 24th Jul 2014 | ||||
6+ |
★★ Knotenweg (Knotenweg P1)
![]()
1
6+
25m
| 25m, 8 | Donautal | ★★ Very Good | Fri 23rd Apr 2021 | ||||
|
|||||||||
7 |
★★ Ameisenweg (Ameisenweg P1)
![]()
1
7
20m
| 20m, 8 | Donautal | Mon 12th Jul 2021 | |||||
First time I got on this classic. First I thought, oh well protected - looks like a plaisir climb - but then I failed at the crux between second and third bolt. Found the important crimpy side pull after some attempts. Quite tricky and hard for me. Because Sonnendeck didn't want to second the route to cleanup I used the last bolt of the route to lower down. The belay is at least 5m left of the start, so cleaning the route descending through that anchor will be hard work.
Does anyone climb the second pitch of this route? I suppose not. Georg Hermann should we place an additional lower off anchor to ease climbing of the first pitch? |
|||||||||
7 |
★★ Ameisenweg
![]() | 40m, 8 | Donautal | ★★★ Classic | Thu 29th Jul 2021 | ||||
Well, the crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. Very technical moves at bad side pulls. The essential holds are at a tiny and hidden flake. Put the left hand at very top of the flake to have the space to match it with the right hand. Then sort your feet to reach the good undercling/side-pull with the left hand. That's it. Continue the flake and stand up on the pillar...
With regards to the guidebook this route is supposed to be a classic, but I would say it is just a very good historical route because for the interesting part from a sport climbing point of view, it would need a new lower off anchor so that you do not have to climb to the historic stance. This is only worthwhile for adventurers. First ascended in 1955 the line chooses the easiest access to the crack-dihedral 5m above ground. Then follows the crack until it gets overhanging and heads to left onto a ledge. Around the corner further left is the stance to start into the easy second and last pitch. Reaching the stance was quite tricky as the hazelnut bush has spread again. Subsequent rope teams should think about bringing a saw and hedge trimmer. There is also plenty of work for a gardener on the second pitch. The second pitch is protected by one bolt only (5m above the belay) and it follows an easy dihedral to the top of the rock. The view from the top is quite rewarding. Don't forget the Gipfelbier |
|||||||||
IXb |
★★ Nordwestkante (RP)
![]() | 60m, 8 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Mon 28th Jun 2021 | ||||
VIIIb |
★★ Schau mer mal
![]() | 50m, 8 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Fri 26th Apr 2019 | ||||
VIIIc |
★★ Achterbahn
![]() | 42m, 8 | Sächsische Schweiz | Fri 4th May 2012 | |||||
7 |
★★ Ameisenweg
![]() | 40m, 8 | Donautal | Wed 24th May 2017 | |||||
IXb |
★★ Golodkowski
![]() | 35m, 8 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Sun 14th Apr 2024 | ||||
8 Hard |
★★★ Superlative
![]() | 32m, 8 | Westpfalz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 11th May 2024 | ||||
Climbed it once and could climb every move free in the first go. Many sections as well without a rest. It is indeed very slippery and "polished", but all moves are super cool. The upper part after the ledge is relatively easy compared to the lower hard stuff. Maybe Pfalz 7-. The spaced bolt distances can be secured using a red and green cam.
|
|||||||||
6- |
★ Rechter Riss
![]() | 25m, 7 | Donautal | ★ Good | Tue 19th Aug 2014 | ||||
7- |
★★ Luger Torweg 1 pitch
![]() | 7 | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Wed 6th May 2015 | ||||
6+ |
★★ Westgratkante
![]() | 35m, 7 | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Sat 9th May 2015 | ||||
6+ |
★ Schornsteinfeger
![]() | 35m, 7 | Donautal | ★ Good | Sat 27th May 2017 | ||||
6+ 6 |
★ Schornsteinfeger
![]() | 35m, 7 | Donautal | Don't Bother | Sat 27th May 2017 | ||||
6 |
★ Schornsteinfeger
![]() | 35m, 7 | Donautal | Sat 22nd Aug 2020 | |||||
7- |
★★★ Ganz großes Kino
![]() | 35m, 7 | Oberharz | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Jan 2021 | ||||
Wenn man weiß wie recht einfach.
|
|||||||||
7+ |
★ Mauersegler
![]() | 25m, 7 | Westpfalz | ★ Good | Sat 22nd May 2021 | ||||
6 |
★★★ Norisbaba
![]() | 43m, 7 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 11th Jul 2021 | ||||
Musste mich im Quergang nach dem genialen Kamin einmal ins Seil setzen.
|
|||||||||
6+ |
★★★ Solaris
![]() | 40m, 7 | Westpfalz | Fri 1st May 2020 | |||||
Xa |
★★ Zeitschleife
![]() | 37m, 7 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 30th Apr 2023 | ||||
Xa |
★★ Zeitschleife
![]() | 37m, 7 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 26th Apr 2023 | ||||
Xa |
★★ Zeitschleife
![]() | 37m, 7 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 10th May 2023 | ||||
Xa |
★★ Zeitschleife
![]() | 37m, 7 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 15th May 2023 | ||||
6+ Hard |
★★★ Solaris
![]() | 40m, 7 | Westpfalz | ★ Good | Sat 13th May 2023 | ||||
Da war am Ende die Luft raus. Schlüsselzug hat 6 Versuche gebraucht.
|
|||||||||
Xa |
★★ Zeitschleife
![]() | 37m, 7 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 17th May 2023 | ||||
Xa |
★★ Zeitschleife
![]() | 37m, 7 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 27th May 2023 | ||||
6+ |
★★★ Solaris
![]() | 40m, 7 | Westpfalz | ★★★ Classic | Sat 10th Jun 2023 | ||||
Bei Wärme und Sonne nicht zu empfehlen
|
|||||||||
8+ |
★★ Rotes Auge
![]() | 28m, 7 | Westpfalz | Fri 16th Jun 2023 | |||||
7- |
★★ Luger Torweg 1 pitch
![]() | 7 | Westpfalz | ★ Good | Mon 24th Aug 2020 | ||||
7- |
★★ Luger Torweg 1 pitch
![]() | 7 | Westpfalz | ★ Good | Fri 28th Jul 2023 | ||||
7- |
★★ Luger Torweg 1 pitch
![]() | 7 | Westpfalz | ★ Good | Fri 28th Jul 2023 | ||||
6+ ~7- |
★★ Vertikalriss
![]() | 30m, 7 | Uracher Alb | ★ Good | Mon 11th Sep 2023 | ||||
6+ |
★★★ Tailfinger Kamin
![]() | 35m, 6 | Donautal | ★★★ Classic | Fri 9th May 2014 | ||||
Used a lot trad equipment in the first 20m.
|
|||||||||
6+ |
★★ Hurenfurche
![]() | 40m, 6 | Donautal | ★★★ Classic | Sun 22nd Jun 2014 | ||||
Classic crack climbing in the second pitch. Short but recommended for crack enthusiasts.
|
|||||||||
7- |
★★★ Jubiläumsriss
![]() | 35m, 6 | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Sat 5th Jul 2014 | ||||
Oposition is the key!
|
|||||||||
IXa |
★★ Sommertraum
![]() | 35m, 6 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Fri 3rd Jul 2015 | ||||
6 6+ |
★★ Salü Sepp
![]() | 20m, 6 | Donautal | ★★ Very Good | Fri 24th Jul 2015 | ||||
Long time ago I climbed that. Don't know how.
|
|||||||||
7 |
★★★ Sonnenweg
![]() | 6 | Westpfalz | ★ Good | Sat 11th Jul 2015 | ||||
6- |
★★★ Falkendach
![]() | 32m, 6 | Donautal | ★★ Very Good | Tue 2nd Apr 2019 | ||||
ne harte 6-
|
|||||||||
7- |
★★★ Jubiläumsriss
![]() | 35m, 6 | Westpfalz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 15th Mar 2020 | ||||
7- |
★★★ Jubiläumsriss
![]() | 35m, 6 | Westpfalz | ★★★ Classic | Sun 15th Mar 2020 | ||||
6+ |
★★★ Götterverschneidung
![]() | 6 | Westpfalz | ★★★ Classic | Sat 13th Jun 2020 | ||||
Einmal unten nach dem 1. Ring und ein paar mal oben im Ausstieg dringesessen
|
|||||||||
7 |
★★★ Sonnenweg
![]() | 6 | Westpfalz | ★★★ Classic | Thu 10th Sep 2020 | ||||
Riss rausgefallen, tolle Route
|
|||||||||
6- |
★★★ Falkendach
![]() | 32m, 6 | Donautal | ★★ Very Good | Tue 16th Feb 2021 | ||||
8- |
★★ Sommermärchen
![]() | 6 | Westpfalz | ★ Good | Sun 23rd May 2021 | ||||
8- |
★★ Sommermärchen
![]() | 6 | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Sun 23rd May 2021 | ||||
6+ |
★★★ Götterverschneidung
![]() | 6 | Westpfalz | ★★★ Classic | Sun 23rd May 2021 | ||||
7+ |
★★ Reibeisen
![]() | 6 | Westpfalz | Sun 8th May 2022 | |||||
7+ |
★★ Reibeisen
![]() | 6 | Westpfalz | Sun 8th May 2022 | |||||
IXb |
★★ Sphinx
![]() | 6 | Sächsische Schweiz | Fri 21st Apr 2023 | |||||
IXb |
Ecopoint
★★★ Das muss kesseln!
![]() | 55m, 6 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Fri 5th May 2023 | ||||
Xa |
★★★ Buntschillernde Seifenblase Direkteinstieg
![]() | 75m, 6 | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★★ Classic | Fri 12th May 2023 |