Ascents in Frankenjura Nord as various tick types

Musste mich im Quergang nach dem genialen Kamin einmal ins Seil setzen.

Actually quite a fun route. The crux awaits at the very end, but you can put a decent amount of gear in before you climb up and right over the bulge. Had no idea how to climb this section in my first attempt, so I bailed to the right into "Erdenkäuferriss" and had a look from above.

Couldn't make out the bolts from the ground so I trusted the topo in the Schwertner book where this is drawn as a single pitch with "high first bolt". Ridiculous. Put one nut in half-way up to the ledge, then realised at the "first bolt" that the traverse is a separate pitch and it's impossible to do it without bringing up a second, so I lowered from there.

Awesome alpine adventure™ with Christoph Rauch! Enjoyed it a lot, thanks!

Had to rest in the part where the good holds were overgrown, although Christoph already cleaned it (also I didn't want to throw more dirt on the climbers below us ).

Ziemlich abenteuerliche Route

Hasn't seen an ascent in ages, apparently. Fought my way through the dirt and vegetation up to the second bolt (at around 20 meters), but then didn't know where to go due to lots of vegetation, choss and mostly loose dirt. Guess I'll have to clean this up a bit before giving it another go.

Terrible route! Basically as Christoph Rauch said earlier, completely strange route going all over the place and crossing many lines. I „retreated“ when I was on the east face, because the drag-resistance of the rope was waaaay to high. Maybe, given that it is a historical route, it’s was once okay, but for modern sports climbing I can definitely NOT recommend this route…

Endurance, Endurance

Auf dem Weg zum umlenker schiss bekommen

After around 15m of tricky, exhausting crack climbing with lots of deep hand jamming, I got on the ledge and was almost shocked by the roof that presented itself over my head, which I underestimated from the ground. In this crux, to get into the second crack on the roof, I took two underclings, made a big kick with my left foot to a bomber foot hold, did a slightly drop knee, then quickly grabbed the crimps in the crack and witched myself up, while ignoring the mediocre, shallow two finger pocket on the right. Hard and rewarding.

Epic crack line! Hard crack climbing moves from the beginning to the end. The crux is to get into the second crack at the top. I did hand and fist jamming, shoulder and even used my knee at one point of the route.

Unnötig schlecht abgesichert. Vor dem ersten Haken kam man einen Friend setzen.

Not sure if this attempt is even worth logging, but I chickened out right at the beginning, because the first foot hold was so polished...

Awkward start getting over the first bolt. Got quite exhausted and nervous in the chimney. Needed to rest after that, although the rest was totally doable (although quite dirty).

I'm proud to have made it to the top. The slings before the anchor are in very bad shape. I used a blue dragon cam after the third bolt and a yellow one below the slings. Had to rest in both of them; I could blame it on the crack being dirty and full of cobwebs, but I guess I just wasn't ready for it. Should have worn crack gloves or at least tape, couldn't stick the jams well enough; it could also be that one or the other foothold in the right wall broke off, so now you don't have any other option than to climb it as a full-on hand crack. I'll be back.

Lots of chossy rock in the first half.. The second half is really nice to climb. Got lost on the last two meters to the anchor and had to rest.

From the ground, it looked like the first ten meters would be the problematic part of this endeavour. Oh what wrong an assumption that should turn out to be. Despite it being chossy and dusty, it was easy and you can place a few solid pieces before reaching the bolt on the ledge. There, I already had to set up belay because the way up was blocked by thorns. Bovist brought up scissors and saw, so the journey could go on. Interesting passage up the diagonal ledge to the little rock chamber (original end of pitch 1). From there on, most of the holds were initially covered in (frozen) moss. Dug around a lot and finally found a good cam placement next to the slightly unreliable rock tunnel, so I pushed on and reached the slab beneath the final wall. Unfortunately, the slab, too, was covered in frozen moss, which broke away after standing on it for a few seconds. I quickly put a carabiner in the rusty ring at the end of the slab and backed it up with a small cam. By this time, I had slipped quite a few times already and I realized that I didn't have any more sensible gear on me for the last few meters of climbing. I tried a few times to get over the last steep bit, but had to retreat in the end; lowered off my cam and the rusty bolt.

I seconded until the first bolt to belay Christoph Rauch, but we had to call it a day at that point.

Felt really off today. Could not make it past the last bolt mentally, didn’t find the promised jugs. Still not convinced this is the correct route.

This route teached me a lesson or two. When it's cold, dark and water is drippling at you, Raketenriss is there and so are you.

curx before the anchors, especially when you stay left of the arete

a stopper can be placed below the bulge

Tried leading this, placing a nut, a friend and a sling on my way to the first bolt. But I did not feel comfortable trusting my own placements and retreated.