Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
11 | |||||||||
11 |
★ Action Directe
![]() | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Sun 12th Sep 2004 | ||||
Seemed a bit tricky to solo in walking shoes. I backed off.
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11 |
★ Action Directe
![]() | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | Thu 27th Jul 2023 | |||||
10 | |||||||||
8b 10 |
★★★ Master Blaster
![]() | 18m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Sat 9th Apr 2016 | ||||
A former project, tried it in 2014, but wasn't strong enough...
Great bouldery clim, crux is the sequenze from the ground to the 4th quickdraw, nice compression climbing on slopers in steep terrain - a lot of forearm power and core is needed.
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8b 10 |
★★★ Master Blaster
![]() | 18m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Sat 9th Apr 2016 | ||||
A former project, tried it in 2014, but wasn't strong enough...
Great bouldery clim, crux is the sequenze from the ground to the 4th quickdraw, nice compression climbing on slopers in steep terrain - a lot of forearm power and core is needed.
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8b 10 |
★★★ Master Blaster
![]() | 18m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Sat 9th Apr 2016 | ||||
Found a new beta for the last hard move I always fell bevor, super high heelhook and a mono
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10 |
★★ Plan B
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | Mon 10th Aug 2015 | ||||||
2x ausgebouldert, irgendwie nicht meine Lösung gefunden
|
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7B+/C | |||||||||
7B+ 7B+/C |
Busengrapscher
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 24th Sep 2022 | ||||||
10-/10 | |||||||||
8b 10-/10 |
★★★ The Old One Needs a Cold One
![]() | 18m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 15th Nov 2015 | ||||
I checked out this beautiful vertical climb, crimpy and technical, with very nice moves
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8b 10-/10 |
★★★ The Old One Needs a Cold One
![]() | 18m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 15th Nov 2015 | ||||
Fall of the last move...
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8b 10-/10 |
★★★ The Old One Needs a Cold One
![]() | 18m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 15th Nov 2015 | ||||
Fall of the last move...
Changed beta
|
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8b 10-/10 |
★★★ The Old One Needs a Cold One
![]() | 18m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 15th Nov 2015 | ||||
Fall of after the crux
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10- | |||||||||
10- |
★★★ Desperado
![]() | 22m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 4th May 2014 | ||||
Awesome Route, quit technical, a lot of idurance is needed to climb it and you should climb very fast, hradest move at the real top of the line
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10- |
★★★ Desperado
![]() | 22m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 4th May 2014 | ||||
10- |
★★★ Desperado
![]() | 22m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 4th May 2014 | ||||
10- |
★★★ Desperado
![]() | 22m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 4th May 2014 | ||||
I fall of cliping the anchor!!!
|
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10- |
★★★ Desperado
![]() | 22m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 4th May 2014 | ||||
10- |
★★★ Desperado
![]() | 22m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 4th May 2014 | ||||
10- |
★★★ Desperado
![]() | 22m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 4th May 2014 | ||||
8a+ 10- |
★★★ T-Rex
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Sat 29th Aug 2015 | |||||
Very cool route with two hard boulder moves on pretty small pockets -> finger strenghts are important!!! Nice no-hand kneebar after this crux and easyer top out
|
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8a+ 10- |
★★★ T-Rex
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Sat 29th Aug 2015 | |||||
8a+ 10- |
★★★ T-Rex
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Sat 29th Aug 2015 | |||||
8a+ 10- |
★★★ T-Rex
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Sat 29th Aug 2015 | |||||
8a+ 10- |
★★★ T-Rex
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Sat 29th Aug 2015 | |||||
8a+ 10- |
★★★ Direttissima
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 31st Oct 2015 | ||||||
Hard boulder in the beginning and a nice slap to the top
|
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8a+ 10- |
★★★ Direttissima
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 31st Oct 2015 | ||||||
Hard boulder in the beginning and a nice slap to the top
|
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8a+ 10- |
★★★ Direttissima
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 31st Oct 2015 | |||||
Hard boulder in the beginning and a nice slap to the top
|
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8a+ 10- |
★★★ Direttissima
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 31st Oct 2015 | |||||
Hard boulder in the beginning and a nice slap to the top
|
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8a+ 10- |
★★ Nullkommanix
![]() | 18m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Thu 5th May 2016 | ||||
Tried it one week bevor, but completely wet, now it was much easier...
|
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8a+ 10- |
★★★ Pocket Rocket
![]() | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Sat 14th May 2016 | ||||
Could have been an easy flash with the right beta...
|
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8a+ 10- |
★★★ SMS
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 16th May 2016 | |||||
Wonderful route, wonderful line, technical climbing, without that much powerful moves, really high technical level and varied climbing skill facet are needed.
After a hard beginning you get into the food crux with some more moves on two finger pockets to a slab position, where you can rest, traverse on small holds into the final crack, one of the best endurance climbs in the Frankenjura!
|
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8a+ 10- |
★★★ SMS
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 16th May 2016 | |||||
Made the rope running better with longer draws, feeling ready to send
|
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8a+ 10- |
★★★ SMS
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 16th May 2016 | |||||
Failed at the crux because the finger where cold and the foot was wrong...
|
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8a+ 10- |
★★★ SMS
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 16th May 2016 | |||||
senseless fail in the beginning
|
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8a+ 10- |
★★★ Simon
![]() | 35m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 20th Jun 2016 | ||||
Great classic route! Slightly overhanging wall climb, really technical, crimpy and ca. 20 meters of peer enjoyment
|
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10- |
Amadeus Schwarzenegger
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 7th Nov 2015 | ||||||
10- |
★★★ Gottesanbeterin
![]() | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 9th Jul 2016 | |||||
10- |
★ Das Fünfte Element (Das Funfte Element)
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Tue 15th Aug 2017 | |||||
10- |
★★★ Blow Job
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | Fri 16th Jul 2021 | ||||||
10- |
★★★ Steep Mud
![]() | 16m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Thu 25th May 2023 | ||||
10- Easy |
★★★ Steep Mud
![]() | 16m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Sun 11th Jun 2023 | ||||
Did not climb the crux and one move below from the good pocket at the second bolt (because I just wanted to quickly check out the route). The route felt much better than it looked from below in my opinion, and the wet parts were not relevant to the climbing. Will come back to give it real tries.
|
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10- |
★★★ Troublemaker
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Sun 11th Jun 2023 | |||||
Probably quite good, but I stopped trying after the first vertical to slightly slabby part took me quite some time to figure out and a second slabby part was still before me below the crack.
|
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10- |
★★ Nullkommanix
![]() | 18m | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 29th Jul 2023 | |||||
Alle Züge geklettert.
|
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10- |
★★ Nullkommanix
![]() | 18m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Fri 22nd Mar 2024 | ||||
10- |
★★★ Zentralmassiv
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | Wed 27th Mar 2024 | ||||||
10- |
★★ Thor's Hammer
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | Fri 14th Jun 2019 | ||||||
10- |
★★★ Zentralmassiv
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | Mon 22nd Apr 2024 | ||||||
10- |
★★★ Leftfield
![]() | 8m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | Mon 21st Apr 2003 | |||||
2x ausgebouldert
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10- |
★ Doppelpack
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | Thu 20th Aug 2015 | ||||||
1xausbouldern, 2 Gos
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10- |
★ Doppelpack
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | Tue 16th Aug 2016 | ||||||
2x ausbouldern
|
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10- |
★ Leichte Beute
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | Thu 18th Aug 2016 | ||||||
Heute drei Gos, in Summe 1x ausbouldern, 4 Gos; UIAA 9+/10-
|
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10- |
★ Doppelpack
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | Thu 8th Aug 2019 | ||||||
3x Ausbouldern
|
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10- |
★ Doppelpack
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | Thu 22nd Aug 2019 | ||||||
3 gos
|
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10- |
★★ Out of Berlin
![]() | 18m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | Mon 8th Aug 2016 | |||||
10- |
★★★ Zentralmassiv
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | Fri 26th Apr 2024 | ||||||
10- |
★★★ SMS
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Mon 29th Apr 2024 | |||||
2x ausgebouldert, fiel mir schwer.
|
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10- |
★★ Bastard
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 12th Jul 2003 | ||||||
1x ausgebouldert
|
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10- |
★★ Nullkommanix
![]() | 18m | Frankenjura Nord | Tue 14th May 2024 | |||||
10- |
★★★ Blow Job
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Thu 30th May 2024 | |||||
9+/10- | |||||||||
9+/10- |
★★ Schütteln nicht nötig
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 12th May 2024 | ||||||
9+ | |||||||||
9+ |
★ Big Circle
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 7th Oct 2023 | ||||||
9+ |
★ Big Circle
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 8th Oct 2023 | ||||||
9+ |
★ Big Circle
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 8th Oct 2023 | ||||||
Working on endurance…
|
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9+ |
In letzer Sekunde
![]() | 14m | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 25th May 2024 | |||||
7A+ | |||||||||
6C+ 7A+ |
★ Golden Gate
![]() | 4m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 16th Dec 2017 | ||||
Worked out the moves relatively quickly. Only the second move (into a hard to hit, painful three finger pocket) took a while.
|
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7A+ |
★ Kraftwerk
![]() | 3m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Tue 15th May 2018 | ||||
I could do all the moves, but my solution involves a long dyno to a sloper/sidepull, which I couldn't stick more than once so far. Should work out if I'm fresh.
|
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7A+ |
★★ Muskelprotz
![]() | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Thu 20th Sep 2018 | ||||
Long traverse, pumpy as hell. Probably need to get back more than a few times to have a chance.
|
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7A+ |
★★ Muskelprotz
![]() | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | Thu 20th Sep 2018 | |||||
9+/10- | |||||||||
8a 9+/10- |
★★★ Respect
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Thu 5th May 2016 | |||||
Originally 8a but now a big key hold broke of, maybe a real 8a now, nice dyno over the sequence with the broken hold and a cool second crux afterwards
|
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8a 9+/10- |
★★★ My way
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Thu 5th May 2016 | |||||
Absolutely my style, static locking power on small crimps and pockets on a slightly overhanging wall
|
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10- 9+/10- |
★★★ Dynamisch Tirol
![]() | 14m, 9 | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 16th Apr 2016 | |||||
10- 9+/10- |
40 Sekunden Countdown
![]() | 14m | Frankenjura Nord | Thu 25th Jun 2020 | |||||
Didn't find a really good way to get into the key sidepull. Helmut's beta didn't seem feasible at first, so I skipped that one move and continued. Found a nice layback beta to the fourth bolt. You can still fall off in the sloper section at the top!
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10- 9+/10- |
40 Sekunden Countdown
![]() | 14m | Frankenjura Nord | Thu 25th Jun 2020 | |||||
Tried with Helmut's beta again and it worked in the end! So all moves done, now it's just practice. Also climbed the whole crux section without resting!
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10- 9+/10- |
40 Sekunden Countdown
![]() | 14m | Frankenjura Nord | Thu 25th Jun 2020 | |||||
Wanted to get to the little crimp for the left hand without resting, but fell off due to wrong gripping position on the little blocky thing at the start of the crux: my final solution: index and middle go into the little recess at the back of the crack, ring finger and pinky go into the slot on the right, thumb on the top left part of the block. That's apparently crucial for me to be able to put the foot up after reaching up into the sloper crack.
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9+ 9+/10- |
40 Sekunden Countdown
![]() | 14m | Frankenjura Nord | Tue 4th Aug 2020 | |||||
Dropped off right at the beginning of the crux, as expected. Skipped the one move and struggled again reaching the "ear". However, I found a nice way to extend my reach a bit by moving my right hand up a bit from the pinch to a little edge in the sloper, just enough to be able to bump to the "ear" with my left hand. Also realised that I could use a good foothold quite far down under the arête to be able to shake out my left hand before going to the birdbath hold which I couldn't hold long enough last time. Some of the finishing slopers were damp, so the top section was even more delicate than last time.
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9+ 9+/10- |
40 Sekunden Countdown
![]() | 14m | Frankenjura Nord | Tue 4th Aug 2020 | |||||
Decided to try the lower crux by directly going into the sidepull again, because I hadn't managed to do the fingerlock/crimp version and immediately succeeded. Finally I got good beta for that section! I could link the whole upper part from there now, nice!
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9+ 9+/10- |
40 Sekunden Countdown
![]() | 14m | Frankenjura Nord | Tue 4th Aug 2020 | |||||
Good attempt. Didn't get the sidepull right and fell, but then tried again and got from there to the "ear". Slipped off a foothold on the little arête afterwards, though. But now I'm prepared to just come back fresh and try again, since I'm not "afraid" of any move any more.
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9+ 9+/10- |
40 Sekunden Countdown
![]() | 14m | Frankenjura Nord | Wed 16th Sep 2020 | |||||
Got my shoulder stuck under the rope so I couldn't do the move to the tiny crimp.
|
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9+ 9+/10- |
40 Sekunden Countdown
![]() | 14m | Frankenjura Nord | Wed 16th Sep 2020 | |||||
Didn't get my thumb right on the sidepull.
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9+ 9+/10- |
40 Sekunden Countdown
![]() | 14m | Frankenjura Nord | Wed 16th Sep 2020 | |||||
High point! Stuck the moves up to the big pinch, then failed getting into layback position. Important things to remember: a) for the move to the sidepull, the left arm must be under the rope coming from the draw, and b) first take the sidepull with thumb on the left, then while standing up, move thumb to the right onto the tiny nose.
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9+ 9+/10- |
★★★ L'eau rage
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | Fri 16th Jul 2021 | ||||||
9+/10- ~10- |
★★★ Tanz der Arroganz
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Mon 3rd Apr 2023 | |||||
3 days of effort. Struggled with wet sections, but also managed some proud links. The roof boulder and top section in a push was particularly memorable.
I never managed a single move in the mid-height crux, despite lots of effort and numerous different sequences. Id love to hear from someone who has done it since the crimper broke off? I was surprised how much glue was holding this classic together (read: tubes and tubes and tubes of it)... makes me feel better about Blue Mountains route development. |
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9+ 9+/10- |
40 Sekunden Countdown
![]() | 14m | Frankenjura Nord | Tue 9th May 2023 | |||||
Didn't go as bad as I had anticipated. Got a new hint for the crux from Torsten. It's apparently sensible to go into a gaston first instead of spanning all the way to the crimp up left. Might give that a try next time.
|
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9+/10- |
Heathersage
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | Tue 3rd Oct 2023 | ||||||
9+/10- |
★★★ Ira Technokratie
![]() | 25m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | Thu 26th Oct 2023 | |||||
Llegué a la última cinta, pero no pude hacer el último paso del final.
|
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9+/10- |
★★★ L'eau rage
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 6th Apr 2024 | ||||||
Was ne geile route
|
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9+/10- |
★★ Cooler Rots
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 14th Apr 2024 | |||||
Hard moves one after another. The final beta in the third try felt quite good actually, this one would be doable in enough tries.
|
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9+/10- |
★★★ Everdry
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 20th Apr 2024 | ||||||
9+/10- |
Inquisition
![]() | 8m | Frankenjura Nord | Fri 1st May 2009 | |||||
1x ausgebouldert und 2 Gos
|
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9+/10- |
Inquisition
![]() | 8m | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 15th Aug 2015 | |||||
Einmal ausbouldern
|
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9+/10- |
★★★ Ira Technokratie
![]() | 25m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 18th May 2024 | ||||
9+/10- |
★★★ Ira Technokratie
![]() | 25m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th May 2024 | ||||
Good beta, but to tired and to bad skin for a proper attempt on this trip. Probably good chances if I come back fully recovered
|
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9+/10- |
★★★ L'eau rage
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 26th May 2024 | ||||||
9+/10- |
★★★ Ira Technokratie
![]() | 25m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 9th Jun 2024 | |||||
Solo subí hasta la 3era plaqueta.
|
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9+/10- |
★★★ Ira Technokratie
![]() | 25m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Fri 14th Jun 2024 | ||||
Set up quick draws and optimize the crux at the last bold
|
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9+/10- |
★★★ Ira Technokratie
![]() | 25m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th Jun 2024 | ||||
Improved micro beta for the final crux
|
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9+/10- |
★★★ Ira Technokratie
![]() | 25m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 16th Jun 2024 | ||||
several good attempts - always reached the crux on the last bold - once fell off on the last move
|
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9+ | |||||||||
8a 9+ |
★★ Armed Response
![]() | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 1st Nov 2015 | ||||
Boulder problem, a heel hook makes it easyer
|
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8a 9+ |
★★ Armed Response
![]() | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 1st Nov 2015 | ||||
8a+ 9+ |
★★★ Die zwei Muskeltiere
![]() | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 10th Apr 2016 | |||||
Could have been a Flash, got super close, but I was to surprised when I sticked the jump in the first try
|
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9+ |
★★★ Hitch-Hike the Plane
![]() | 25m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Wed 7th Sep 2016 |