Ascents in Dreistaffelfels as Onsight

Easy start to the big ledge. The overhanging dihedral is tricky to manoeuvre, with dropknees and some wide bridging you can get the weight off your hands somewhat, though. Athletic finish on the big sidepulls. Nice one, although a bit short.

Terrific crack dihedral. The lower part looks intimidating, but it's actually the very finish that almost threw me off. The start can be climbed as a shoulder crack (left arm in) and isn't harder than, say, 6. Then a few meters of good jamming get you up into the dihedral, the size of the footholds decreasing in proportion to the height. Then all of a sudden the jams end and you're left standing on eggshells with barely a hold. There's a good hold out on the right, but that one's hard to spot if you're folded into the dihedral like I was. Managed to stay on the wall and got rewarded with a glory jug in the finishing crack (which is easier). Certainly a test piece (and probably harder than 7?).

Ausstiegsmöglichkeit zum "Kleinen Engel"

Interesting wall climbing in compact rock. Sloping pockets demand good footwork (impeded by slightly greasy footholds) and balance.

Athletic climbing at the left end of the overhang. A little forced in the upper part, you're naturally drawn to the left.

nicht so leicht und nicht so schön kann man trotzdem mal machen...

Would almost deserve a classic rating, maybe if it was in a more exposed position high up the hill or something. :-D Easy start up the dihedral, then a slightly delicate traverse to the right (it's best to leave out the Bühler bolt above the big hollow flake and extend the next bolt). The bolt in the overhang seems far, but there's a jug in the crack to clip from, so go for it. Powerful crack moves (if you can jam, it's easier) past a rusty ring (didn't clip it) to jugs at the upper edge.

Quite polished, relatively short, straightforward. The original route apparently went to the left before the top to the last bolt of "Mantlewand".

Fun climb

Fun!

Difficult passage to get past the single bolt in the lower part. The bolt on the left (above the belay bolt in the little alcove) in the upper part is misleading, the better holds are on the right (and the route goes up on the right according to old guide books, anyway). Good climbing, a little bold.