Routes in Madagascar

Pitches info:

1. 30m (5 bolts)

2. 35m (6 bolts)

3. 50m (10 bolts)

4. 52m (8 bolts)

5. 57m (8 bolts)

6. 20m (2 bolts)

Route diagram:

http://ailedescimes.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/Air-Society-copie.jpg

Other notes:

It is possible to scramble to summit (and apparently walk down to camp Catta - not verified!).

Climbing notes:

⚠️ 6a+ obligatory!

Abseil notes:

⚠️ Abseil via the same route except for the last two pitches. See route diagram (link below) for more info!

You can also walk down the 'Lemur Wall' ridge.

Recommended equipment:

• 13 quickdraws
• 2x 60m ropes

Pitches info:

1. 15m (5 bolts)

2. 40m (11 bolts)

3. 40m (13 bolts)

4. 50m (4 bolts)

5. 30m (10 bolts)

6. 40m (10 bolts)

7. 35m (8 bolts)

Route diagram:

• AILEDESCIMES - Pectorine

• CampCatta - Pectorine

Très belle et très raide avec des points parfois un peu espacés dans la partie haute.

Climbing notes:

⚠️ 6b+ obligatory!

Abseil notes:

Abseil via the same route.

You can also climb a bit above the last anchor point and walk down the 'Lemur Wall' ridge. See route diagram (link below) for more info!

Recommended equipment:

• 19 quickdraws
• 2x 60m ropes

Pitches info:

1. 35m (8 bolts)

2. 50m (15 bolts)

3. 50m (18 bolts)

4. 50m (11 bolts)

5. 40m (11 bolts)

6. 45m (8 bolts)

Route diagram:

AILEDESCIMES - Tsaradonga

Same line with the original, harder 8th pitch.

Climbing notes:

⚠️ 6a+ obligatory!

Abseil notes:

⚠️ Abseil down via the same route, except in the central area. See the route diagram (link at the bottom) for more details.

Recommended equipment:

• 10 quickdraws
• 2x 50m ropes

Pitches info:

1. 50m (9 bolts)

2. 40m (10 bolts)

3. 50m (6 bolts)

4. 45m (8 bolts)

5. 30m (1 bolt + possible micro-friend)

6. 40m (8 bolts)

7. 40m (8 bolts)

8. 35m (5 bolts)

Route diagram:

http://ailedescimes.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/croixsud.gif

Other notes:

Well equipped, classic

German report in SBB magazine 4/2017 page 44ff.

Climbing notes:

⚠️ 6b+ obligatory!

Recommended equipment:

• 13 quickdraws
• 2x 60m ropes

Pitches info:

1. 50m (8 bolts)

2. 45m (6 bolts)

3. 45m (9 bolts)

4. 60m (13 bolts)

5. 55m (10 bolts)

Route diagram:

• AILEDESCIMES - Black magic woman

• CampCatta - Black Magic Woman

I did this route with one of the guides (Faly) but it is not in the topos, bolts were quite new (in summer 2022) so probably is a recently open route.

Technical face climbing on exceptional rock.

tête de moulinettes cachées sous les herbes de la vire. Il y a un point plus haut pour s’assurer afin d’aller les équiper - Krishna : jamais faites

Tête de moulinette : OK

Climbing notes:

⚠️ 6c obligatory!

Abseil notes:

⚠️ Abseil down via 'La croix du sud' (4 routes to the left, some 40m at least).

Recommended equipment:

• 10 quickdraws
• 2x 50m ropes

Route diagram:

http://ailedescimes.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Veloma-madagsikava.jpg

Climbing notes:

⚠️ 6a obligatory!

Abseil notes:

Abseil via the same route. You can also walk down the 'Lemur Wall' ridge.

Recommended equipment:

• 14 quickdraws
• 2x 50m ropes

Pitches info:

1. 30m (5 bolts)

2. 40m (9 bolts)

3. 45m (13 bolts)

4. 35m (9 bolts)

Route diagram:

• AILEDESCIMES - Plaisir guide suisse

• CampCatta - Voie plaisir des guides suisses

3 dégaines 2 points pour le relais

Dégaines : manque 2 plaquettes Tête de moulinette : manque les 2 plaquettes

Abseil notes:

Abseil via route or hike down the Karambony trail.

Read more about abseiling on CampCatta page (link below).

Recommended equipment:

Read more about it on CampCatta page (link below).

Route diagram:

• AILEDESCIMES - Fantasia

• CampCatta - Fantasia

Pas d'équipement

Climbing notes:

⚠️ 6c obligatory!

Pitches info:

1. 43m (10 bolts)

2. 49m (9 bolts)

3. 38m (7 bolts)

4. 50m (7 bolts)

5. 58m (8 bolts)

6. 50m (3 bolts)

Route diagram:

http://ailedescimes.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/Scolothom.jpg

tête de moulinettes cachées sous les herbes de la vire. Il y a un point plus haut pour s’assurer afin d’aller les équiper - Krishna : jamais faites

Tête de moulinette : OK

Climbing notes:

⚠️ 6c+ obligatory!

Recommended equipment:

• 11 quickdraws
• 2x 50m ropes

Route diagram:

http://ailedescimes.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Catta-lands1.jpg

4 dégaines 2 points pour le relais

Dégaines : manque 1 plaquette Tête de moulinette : ok

Pas d'équipement

You can walk down the stairs towards the church

Tête de moulinette : OK

Climbing notes:

⚠️ 6c+ obligatory!

Recommended equipment:

• 13 quickdraws
• 2x 60m ropes

Route diagram:

• AILEDESCIMES - Un altro giro di giostra

4 dégaines 2 points pour le relais

Pas d'équipement

Climbing notes:

⚠️ 6b obligatory!

Route diagram:

http://ailedescimes.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/Les-Vazahamateurs.jpeg

Route diagram:

AILEDESCIMES - Gipsy crack

Tête de moulinette : OK

Climbing notes:

⚠️ 6a+ obligatory!

Abseil notes:

Abseil via 'Le crabe aux pinces d’or' or just walk down the ridge.

Recommended equipment:

• 15 quickdraws
• 2x 60m ropes

Route diagram:

• AILEDESCIMES - Dancing with the world

Other notes:

Well bolted.

Pas d'équipement

Relais intermédiaire à équiper commun avec A zébu ! et Number 6.

tête de moulinette : OK

Climbing notes:

⚠️ 6a+ obligatory!

Route diagram:

http://ailedescimes.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Woodstock.jpg

Tête de moulinette : OK

Climbing notes:

Route leads between two black stumps in the middle of the tower.

Recommended equipment:

• 17 quickdraws
• 2x 60m ropes

Pitches info:

1. 55m (9 bolts)

2. 50m (10 bolts)

3. 45m (8 bolts)

4. 60m (16 bolts)

5. 60m (4 bolts)

6. 40m (3 bolts)

Route diagram:

• AILEDESCIMES - Mainty sy fotsy

Pas de dégaine 2 points au relais

Tête de moulinette : OK

Climbing notes:

⚠️ 6c obligatory!

Abseil notes:

⚠️ Abseil down via 'La croix du sud' to the right.

Recommended equipment:

• 8 quickdraws
• 2x 50m ropes

Pitches info:

1. 47m (6 bolts)

2. 48m (8 bolts)

3. 50m (5 bolts)

4. 40m (4 bolts)

5. 45m (8 bolts)

6. 50m (5 bolts)

7. 25m (no bolts!)

Route diagram:

http://ailedescimes.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Malagasy-maroto.jpg

https://www.campcatta.com/topo2.php?page=topo4&ref=1&nb=44

Vincent Terisse et un jeune Réunionais avait équipé une petite longueur, surtout pour y faire des photos. J'imagine qu'on devrait pouvoir continuer dans le 7+.

Tête de moulinette : OK

Route diagram:

• AILEDESCIMES - Le crabe aux pinces d’or

2 points au relais

Un tracé de voie de 1995, en 2 longueurs, entre "No name" et Kalanoro

Tête de moulinette : OK

Climbing notes:

⚠️ 6a obligatory!

Pitches info:

1. 50m (11 bolts)

2. 50m (7 bolts)

3. 50m (8 bolts)

4. 40m (2 bolts)

5. 50m (11 bolts)

6. 50m (6 bolts)

7. 30m (3 bolts)

Route diagram:

http://ailedescimes.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/bocatta_r.gif

Abseil notes:

Abseil via the same route. You can also walk down the 'Lemur Wall' ridge. See route diagram (link below) for more info!

Recommended equipment:

• 14 quickdraws
• 2x 60m ropes

Pitches info:

1. 30m (7 bolts)

2. 55m (13 bolts)

3. 50m (13 bolts)

4. 30m (6 bolts)

5. 40m (11 bolts)

6. 50m (13 bolts)

Route diagram:

AILEDESCIMES - King Lui

Other notes:

Very well equipped.

Pas d’équipement