Routes in Middle East for selected grade

Deliri (Bonsom-Gibert-Mas-Vale?) Catalan group climbers see Desnivel.com

1 sling

To the left of "The Beauty".

1. 1 FB

1. 17 FB

2. Trad

3. Trad

Huge pocketed wall on the right side of the south-west facing side of South Barrah Canyon. To the left of the wall is a huge diedre with the route R218A “Schoarf Unterwegs”, on the very left side of the wall is a bolt with a sling, 2m above the terrace, belonging to R218B “Hala Hala”

“Dance on Slings” takes the start of “Hala Hala”, but then heads to the center of the wall climbing this up to the big break 80m above, following the good dark rock and avoiding the fragile yellow one.

Exposed and steep wall-climbing on generally good rock with the occasional fragile yellow parts. Belays and abseil point are in place and bomb-proof. For protection only slings and one friend necessary.

P1: 25m, 6c or 6a A0. Two friends 3 in horizontal crack below roof. 3 slings in place.

P2: 15 m, 6a+. 4 slings in place (plus one friend 2½ possible).

P3: 25 m, 6a. 5 slings in place (plus 4 additional slings possible).

Topo.

Direct line up the main crack system. Classic of the area, sustained climbing with scrambly finish.

Famous for the corner crack in the second pitch, mostly finger-size. A variant of the start of Black corner, you abseil down on the route.

Bring a double set of friends from 0.3 to 5.

On Jebel Abu Judaidah. Mentioned in this AAC article.

East face. Nice line on good rock. Mentioned in this AAC article.

Currently closed by National Park Authority

The best Duverney/Monnet climb in the Wadi Rum Massif. All Pitches are sustained but on an excellent dark rock with fine finger crack climbing following a very pure line. Protection and belays are good. One angle peg is needed for the 6c move in the second pitch. The belays are bolted. It is possible to abseil down the route.

A nice route on the corner of a nice cliff , with amazing big cracks and nice face climbing

Viva Saper a traditional route with 40 meters long. It has a relatively oblique ascent along with slobe crack.

A nice corner just left from Inferno. Ends with traverse right to the Inferno bolt and abseils via it. Few bolts included.

Zehirli Sarmaşık is a wonderful over hanging traditional route up a non continuous crack. Start from the base of a large tree and follow nice face climbing before reaching the crack 4 meters off the ground. Continue on a sustained series of moves with a tricky crux at the lip. Resist the urge to turn this into a tree climbing route . Follow the crack up and left until it merge is with the anchor of Doğankaya. (The anchor in the 2018 mini guide it does not exist and the 6+ grade is incorrect)

Location Zehirli Sarmaşık is located directly above a large pine tree at the base of the cliff above the picnic area gazebos. Follow a prominent crack on this portion of cliff.

Protection Traditional gear to 2", 2 bolt anchor.

Marmite is a wonderful yet deceiving traditional route at packs a sustained punch. Start on light colored rock with a run out before finding your first good gear placements. Follow a slightly over hanging right trending crack that eventually will curve back to the left side yet offer little relief in terms of pump in your forearms. Breathe a sigh of relief when you get to the gray rock and shake out before clipping the anchor shared with Noel Baba.

Location Marmite is located 3 meters right of a large pine tree at the base of the cliff above the picnic area gazebos. Follow a prominent crack on this portion of cliff.

Protection Traditional gear to 2", 2 bolt anchor

east-facing side of the mountain, which lies eastwards, next and parallel to Al Maghrar 1232 Dome and immediately north of Al Maghrar 1260 Dome; the east side of this mountain displays in the centre a huge smooth black wall, which has a big diedre on the left (south) end with a crack-line running to the top, and further left to this a wide chimney also running to the top

“Caught in the Desert” or “The Flat Tyre” follows the finger-crack in the obvious north-facing diedre.

steep crack-climbing on good rock (except for the 2nd pitch) with solid protection in an extremely beautiful part of the desert.

#30. 6c or 6a A1.

beautiful line, mixed between bolts and trad. very solid rock. abseiling notes : from the 4th anchor going down to the 3rd, go to the left not through the over hang its 40 meters long , then 3rd anchor there is only one bolt and two rings to go all the way down at least 50-60 meter long abseil

Mixed, Trad and Bolted with glue-ins

6a|bb+|6a|6a|6b|6a

Viva Saper a traditional route with 40 meters long. It has a relatively oblique ascent along with slobe crack.

P1: 5.10a/b P2:5.10a P3:5.10a/b P4:5.11a

Fun cracks and dihedrals!

p1: 24 p2: 24

Multipitch trad. Double set of friends from 0.3 to 5. Two bolt anchor stop P1 and ring chains on P2. Lower-off in two rappels.

6a 5b 6b+

west around from the Haj into the slot canyon, walk as far as you can into the slot canyon, looking out for the splitter crack. Descent 2 x 70m repels

#37

Steep Crack

Double rack of cams from 0.5 to 4

The North Face of Mashanig

#1 17, 55m Up the bushy chimney stepping right onto a ledge and cruxy slab to belay. #2 15, 35m Wandering. Zig zag between ledgelets following balancy line of least resistance trending left of ominous rooves above. #3. 21, 20m. Up the scrub, right of overhanging squeeze chimney to layback sequence (crux) then left to a semi-hanging belay. #4 15, 30m Traverse left and up to base of overhanging offwidth on R. #5, 18, 20m. Offwidth brings you to base of final headwall riven by steep flaring cracks. #6 13, Traverse left and up gully line above col. #7-12, Up to grade 15. South-facing corner of east ridge to summit. A squeeze chimney, a few tricky mantles and ledge climbing lead to victory.

start on the top of the boulder

The trickiest idea is to reach the undercling in the beginning. There are various ways to do that, but probably the easiest one is by leaning to the left in a flag as much as possible, placing the right foot toe hook, and then reaching to the undercling with a left hand. After that, you can move your legs, match your hands there, etc.

Overhang north face of the deadsea skull rock, climb up and right to get the grade, there’s a slightly easier alternative going left on the face

Despite the modest grades this is not exactly a good beginners multi-pitch. With loose rock on virtually every pitch, sound judgement and route-finding skills are a must. The first two pitches are both very loose. The 3rd pitch has the best quality rock on the whole route and is pretty fun. The 4th pitch is short, and chossy but slightly less so than the first two pitches. The last pitch is higher quality, but has some dangerous death blocks that can be avoided if you're careful. Beautiful views the whole way up!

P1 5.8 60 ft: Climb up the corner/slab using side pulls and high steps until you traverse right to the anchors. The crux may be figuring out which holds are good enough to pull on.

P2 5.8 45 ft: Climb up the easy slab. Lots of loose rock here so be careful!

P3 5.10C 80 ft: The rock quality is much better on this pitch! Balance-y moves and technical face climbing lead you to a very comfortable ledge.

P4 5.8 80 ft: Climb up the easier slab to the base of the much steeper final pitch.

P5 5.11b 115 ft: Climb up the steepening face with awesome exposure! Starts off relatively easy and gets harder towards the top. Watch out for some very big loose blocks near the top!

Rap the route with 2 60m or a single 70m rope.

Climb up the middle face, not the flake to the left.

Crag classic - Starts in the chimney onto an overhang. Technical climb the dihedral to a small rest. Move slightly to the right and climb up to the anchor.

Overhang traverse. Missing anchor. Name from this song.

Second pitch is still a project.

Same start as Yandance, goes to the right after 5th quickdraw

vertical

Gülali is a long and wonderful route that starts on light colored rock and follows the arete for 10 meters. Continue up dark rock on excellent face climbing that will keep you on your toes. Finish at an anchor that is shared with Akçaabat Helvası.

Location Gülali located 30 meters right of the two large pine trees growing at the base of the cliff that mark the start of the crag. Look for an obvious line of bolts to the right of a triangular shaped section of light colored, overhanging rock and stay left of the prominent inside corner crack feature.

Protection 16 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Great balancy technical slab climbing. Some moves harder for the short.