Ascents in New Zealand as Flash by John Pitcairn

Enjoyable enough. Grant led it first.

Think this is new, not in the 2014 guide. Somebody is being cheap, could use another bolt or 2 at the grade. There is another new route to the right starting on the stepped ledges.

Not sure whether we were on this or Climb Into The Unknown. A hard start and some decent climbing after, but very poor bolting means you are looking at a groundfall from the crux between bolts 1 and 2, be careful, do not high clip bolt 2, belayer pay close attention. Grant came off...

Aesthetic thin crack that screams "climb me". Small but bomber gear, and the top is not runout if you have the right gear.

Draws on. Unmemorable.

Not sure on the grade so top roped it first. Shouldn't have.

Meh.

One of the best grade 14 trad lines I have ever climbed. Good rock, excellent pro, compares very favourably to Arapiles.

Hardish start then nothing to get excited about.

Draws on to roof. Can't see how you'd pull the roof at the grade, turned it on the left. No small amount of loose choss under it and dirty above it.

Awful awful wet weetbix.

Short evening session at the end of a rest day. Did it the wrong way, straight up the arete until 2nd bolt then right. Draws on.

May have made it harder by not starting around the corner, went straight up. Draws on.

Good but goey at the crux, wouldn't be a pretty fall, a bit of a sandbag I'd say. You could call it 16 with a straight face. I jammed, Angela found some easier layback beta, but still...

A nice fun crack climb, good gear, not as straightforward as it looks from the ground.

The name perhaps refers to it being a squeeze route, easily escapable into the routes either side. Pretty crimpy, tiny feet and smears, really hot rock by late morning, considerable ooze required. Surprised I got it clean.

Nice thin sequence at the crux, eases considerably after that.

Really good and worth the approach (we came in left). A dicky but adequately protected move or two on finger locks across an exfoliating slab to get established in the crack (crux), then interesting features, a wide range of gear and some good jamming. Possible dodgy block at the top overlap, make up your own mind. Recommended. Ran out of evening but will come back for Five Ring Circus which looks fun.

Crux is probably getting established in the V groove, or the top crack exit. Well protected.

Trickyish start. Didn't float my boat.

Really pleasant route, good gear. Walked 30km to get here.

Nice lead from Jonno. Great route, reminiscent of Arapiles watchtower slabbing. Left the anchor in place for convenience.

Think Jonno strayed too far right, missed the spike, exited right instead of left. Getting hot and blowy, time to leave. Keen to return and lead it.

In approach shoes to clean the Stargazer anchor. Might as well have soloed due to the extreme pendulum potential...

Easy. But none of us were any better than this...

Not bad. A bit slimy down the bottom right now so the start is harder than 14, will be an easy clean next summer. Perfect fists for me, take a couple of #4s. The remainder was mostly hexes. Linked into Dog's Breakfast.

Nervy balancy wee number in places, sketchy top out. Maybe we were too far left but the arete was pretty green in the first half.

Balancy to the first bolt.

Balancy start, neato face climbing thereafter. The feature on the upper face resembles a bee if you have good drugs.

How have I managed to avoid this for 10 years? It's pretty damn good. Looks like you could once keep going after the anchor but bolt on arete has been flattened.

A bit grubby

Yup, overgraded. Retrieving Magnus' draws.

Draws on. Straight up to first bolt, nice right hand jams around midway, then head left.

Draws on. In for the 5th ascent, after Greg. Start is probably the crux, once you're on the arete it's plainer sailing and good fun. Nice moves to be had. Also, according to the crag, my 666th unique ascent...

May possibly have done this a long time ago, not sure. Really nice thoughtful slab moves, highly recommended but perhaps not if 16 is your limit.

Seems I've never been on this. I'd remember. Bastard hard start, very thankful for the stick clipped first bolt. Missed the good holds over the bulge to arrive on the slab surprised I was still on. High left foot rock up and right palm down over the top lip, worked well. Vague sense of accomplishment.

Warmup. Best I can say is it's short.

Draws on. After gorse working bee and in need of shade. Better than it looks.

Draws on. Started a smidge right of the bolts in the shallow scoop, crossed left at break and bulge with a little pocket beta from Jonno. Maybe that's not how it's supposed to go, but pretty soft for 21? 20 at most, maybe even hard 19.

Draws on. Grubby but climbable, monkeying around on a juggy overhang. Fun enough but feels a bit gym, and short. Would probably be more pleasing if cleaner. And not 21.

Draws on to crux after Amy had a go. Spent considerable time getting up, feeling around, getting down, repeat. In the end it was really only one or two tricky moves, and 4 people all found different beta. Mine kept the feet on and the body mostly upright. Quite fun.

Pleasant enough apart from lichen.