Showing all 51 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||||||||||||
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27 26 |
Supervixen
![]() | 15m, 6 | Waipari | Average | Sat 14th Dec 2019 | ||||||||||||||
I had to do a traverse in to the first draw from the left, the line goes though a heinous boulder problem. logged on 8a as a 27 not sure where 26 came from. traverse in from the left skipping the boulder at the bottom is prob 25. sharp pockets the whole way and lots of lichen to clean off
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26 |
Ecopoint
Supervixen
![]() | 15m, 6 | Waipari | Thu 29th Dec 2022 | |||||||||||||||
25 |
★★ Black Widow
![]() | 12m, 5 | Waipari | ★★★ Classic | Sun 20th Dec 2020 | ||||||||||||||
Yeeeeees, happy with this hang dog! 🐕 None of that aid shit or grabbing draws to clip, nah. Look, I know hang dogs are not generally impressive, but on the first try it had felt almost impossibly hard (for the 3 bolts) and then scary af with the run out and swing between 4th and 5th bolts. But today I cranked through all those tiny sharp pockets and shit through 4 bolts and, after a rest and getting myself psyched, I easily charged through the fun and juggy roof section to clip the 5th bolt surrounded by jugs 🖤 both easy and fun, and anyway climbing is best with a little spice!!! 🌶
🕷 Beta tips for myself for send attempt(s): from deep 2 finger pocket on the left hand just above 1st bolt, bump right hand from good solid crimp (we'll call "Bob") up and out right. Ignore the multiple other right hand bumping options and get feet high, including right foot into big ole jug (that I go for once established on the route). Then big crossover move to get right hand into 3 finger pocket that is the clipping hold for 2nd bolt. Left foot goes into small pocket (that was ticked for me from some previous climber) and high right foot into solid crimp ("Bob"). Clip. Then stand up and get left hand into big pocket that has crimp ledge on bottom half and undercling knob on top. Left foot on good chip. Right foot on good crimp edge. Left hand into really good sidepull. Get crimp above 2nd bolt with right hand. Bump left hand to higher, lefter, sharper sidepull. Swap feet so right foot is on chip. Crank to get "bowling ball" pockets with right hand, adjust if necessary. Crank up, keeping hardcore core tension to those 3 holds immediately right of 3rd draw, bottom pocket is smallest but juggiest. Right foot onto massive crimp ledge and cranking hard with left hand to get big jug that is the clipping hold for 3rd bolt (to the right of it). Pretty smooth sailing to 4th bolt, remember sharp "egg" 🥚 hold far right of the 4th bolt can help to clip it. Then jugs everywhere, keep core tension going into roof, remember heel hook on massive jug under the arch/roof, slightly higher jug for left hand, LOCK OFF left arm to reach high with right hand. Get good crimp/okayish jug then bump higher with right hand for amazing jug. (Don't forget to go heel to toe with left foot to help get up there at some point 😄) Top is mossy & muddy as hell but it's like a grade 10 to anchor so whatevs 🤎 |
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25 |
★★ Black Widow
![]() | 12m, 5 | Waipari | ★★★ Classic | Sat 19th Feb 2022 | ||||||||||||||
23 |
★★ Tetris
![]() | 7m, 3 | Waipari | ★ Good | Sat 17th Apr 2021 | ||||||||||||||
Dogged to the top to clean it off.
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23 |
★★ Tetris
![]() | 7m, 3 | Waipari | Sun 18th Apr 2021 | |||||||||||||||
Put gear up.
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23 |
★★ Tetris
![]() | 7m, 3 | Waipari | ★★ Very Good | Sat 5th Feb 2022 | ||||||||||||||
Think I have good beta for the send once my skin has recovered. Some brutally sharp pockets on this one
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23 |
★★ Tetris
![]() | 7m, 3 | Waipari | ★★ Very Good | Mon 21st Feb 2022 | ||||||||||||||
Got very close to the send today but ran out of skin... again. Thanks for the patience Marnus
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21 |
★ He Mans Revenge
![]() | 12m, 5 | Waipari | ★ Good | Sat 24th Apr 2021 | ||||||||||||||
Second go of the day. Thought I had it as I got through all the bolts but then the top was damp and covered in lichen and I somehow ended up with my injured finger in a mono and decided to call take rather than go for glory on a 21
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21 |
★ Half a Lager
![]() | 10m, 3 | Waipari | ★ Good | Sun 9th Jan 2022 | ||||||||||||||
21 |
★ He Mans Revenge
![]() | 12m, 5 | Waipari | ★ Good | Sat 19th Feb 2022 | ||||||||||||||
21 |
★ Half a Lager
![]() | 10m, 3 | Waipari | Sun 16th Jan 2022 | |||||||||||||||
21 |
★ Half a Lager
![]() | 10m, 3 | Waipari | Sat 27th Nov 2021 | |||||||||||||||
21 |
★ Half a Lager
![]() | 10m, 3 | Waipari | ★ Good | Wed 18th Jan 2023 | ||||||||||||||
1 fall. Did all the moves
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21 |
★ He Mans Revenge
![]() | 12m, 5 | Waipari | ★ Good | Wed 18th Jan 2023 | ||||||||||||||
1 fall. Couldn't find the jug hiding from me
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21 ~22 |
★ He Mans Revenge
![]() | 12m, 5 | Waipari | ★ Good | Mon 30th Jan 2023 | ||||||||||||||
21 |
★ He Mans Revenge
![]() | 12m, 5 | Waipari | Mon 11th Dec 2023 | |||||||||||||||
fingey go brrr
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20 |
★★ Star Star Zipper Zipper
![]() | 15m, 6 | Waipari | ★★ Very Good | Fri 29th Jan 2021 | ||||||||||||||
First go. Just a fingertip from the glory jug and the rest is easy as I found out. But missed the onsight. I made it scary for myself by going from the second bolt to the fourth as the third was hidden under some vine foliage. I don't recommend as it was easy terrain but also would have been a very very bad fall.
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20 |
★★ Snails and Ginger Beer
![]() | 15m, 5 | Waipari | ★★ Very Good | Sat 30th Jan 2021 | ||||||||||||||
Warm up. It was covered in vines half way up and the top half was mostly lichen. Had very little chance at the onsight. The bang-in bolts are also pretty rusty and it really needs to be rebolted. The anchor is particularly uninspiring and it would make a lot of sense to extend the chains. The climbing is quite nice though.
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18 |
★ Falling Debris
![]() | 15m, 6 | Waipari | ★ Good | Sun 13th Nov 2016 | ||||||||||||||
Several falls getting to anchor. Lots of lichen, looks seldom climbed.
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18 |
★ Falling Debris
![]() | 15m, 6 | Waipari | ★ Good | Sun 19th Dec 2021 | ||||||||||||||
And one on the dog list. Gets pumpy at top. All good but greased off the rail immediately under the anchor, wet hand from puddle in pocket below. Solid fall, banged hip. Pulled back up and sorted it. Nicely shady, will revisit.
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18 |
★ Falling Debris
![]() | 15m, 6 | Waipari | Sun 9th Jan 2022 | |||||||||||||||
The first 2 bolt is good. Very dirty afterwatd
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18 |
★ Falling Debris
![]() | 15m, 6 | Waipari | Sun 18th Feb 2024 | |||||||||||||||
17 |
★ Summer Song for Scotty
![]() | 12m, 5 | Waipari | Average | Sun 1st Nov 2020 | ||||||||||||||
17 |
Ecopoint
★ Summer Song for Scotty
![]() | 12m, 5 | Waipari | Thu 29th Dec 2022 | |||||||||||||||
17 |
★ Summer Song for Scotty
![]() | 12m, 5 | Waipari | Average | Sat 11th Feb 2023 | ||||||||||||||
Hard start and first bolt is quite high. The second half of this route is covered by dry moss, please be cautious. Is not easy to see the holds and not easy to smear because of it.
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V5 |
6. Supervixon/ Calcite King
![]() | Waipari | Sat 12th Jun 2021 | ||||||||||||||||
Nice problem! Bit too hard for me to work alone atm. Did a few moves though and like it, think with a bit of advice/getting better and reading rock I'll do it 🪨👍🏼
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V3 |
★★ Unknown
![]() | 5m | Waipari | Sun 4th Feb 2024 | |||||||||||||||
V2 |
★ 2. Tetris
![]() | Waipari | Sun 4th Feb 2024 | ||||||||||||||||
Big Toad Project
![]() | 2m | Waipari | Average | Fri 8th Mar 2024 | |||||||||||||||
25 |
★★ Black Widow
![]() | 12m, 5 | Waipari | ★★ Very Good | Fri 18th Dec 2020 | ||||||||||||||
Checked the moves up to 4th bolt. Although the arch has jugs I didn’t have the gumption to go for 5th bolt. Pockets to sharp for my weak fingers anyway.
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25 |
★★ Black Widow
![]() | 12m, 5 | Waipari | ★★ Very Good | Fri 29th Jan 2021 | ||||||||||||||
Surprisingly I managed to clip the second draw. But generally my fingers still can't stand the pockets on this one. Maybe if I give it some concentrated attention my fingers will acclimatize?
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25 |
★★ Black Widow
![]() | 12m, 5 | Waipari | ★★ Very Good | Sat 30th Jan 2021 | ||||||||||||||
High point. Still pretty pitiful. Climbed to the bowling ball pockets between 2nd and 3rd bolt. But didn't get the side pull correctly. 2.5 moves to the 3rd bolt clipping jug. Also saw the top for the first time, so at least I have done most of the moves in isolation now. Definitely not my style, but really nice to see Alex's progress on it.
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25 |
★★ Black Widow
![]() | 12m, 5 | Waipari | ★★ Very Good | Fri 29th Jan 2021 | ||||||||||||||
Second go of the day. Made very little progress.
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25 |
★★ Black Widow
![]() | 12m, 5 | Waipari | ★★ Very Good | Sat 30th Jan 2021 | ||||||||||||||
Second attempt of the day. The pockets are eating my fingers.
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25 |
★★ Black Widow
![]() | 12m, 5 | Waipari | ★★ Very Good | Sat 30th Jan 2021 | ||||||||||||||
Shouldn't have got on this three days in a row. Have damaged the tendon of my middle finger on left hand when the index finger slipped out of two finger pocket putting all the weight on my middle finger suddenly
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25 |
★★ Black Widow
![]() | 12m, 5 | Waipari | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Feb 2022 | ||||||||||||||
Injured my right hand
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23 |
★★ Tetris
![]() | 7m, 3 | Waipari | Sat 18th Jan 2020 | |||||||||||||||
Attempts stick-clipped. Didn’t get very far with left side beta. Right side beta looks more promising to link to top but need to come back with a hedge trimmer to get rid of the climbing vine all over the holds on the right arete.
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23 |
★★ Tetris
![]() | 7m, 3 | Waipari | ★ Good | Sat 17th Apr 2021 | ||||||||||||||
Half-hearted attempt.
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Supporting theCrag is not only good for your Karma
it also gives you access to great benefits on theCrag and beyond. | |||||||||||||||||||
23 |
★★ Tetris
![]() | 7m, 3 | Waipari | Sun 18th Apr 2021 | |||||||||||||||
Fell off going to first bolt clipping jug. Toe hook held me short.
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23 |
★★ Tetris
![]() | 7m, 3 | Waipari | Sun 18th Apr 2021 | |||||||||||||||
Made same mistake.
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23 |
★★ Tetris
![]() | 7m, 3 | Waipari | Sun 18th Apr 2021 | |||||||||||||||
Third time coming short of clipping jug. Will change beta to use big sloper pocket as intermediate to release the left toe hook.
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23 |
★★ Tetris
![]() | 7m, 3 | Waipari | Mon 26th Sep 2022 | |||||||||||||||
Was trying to go straight up to first bolt, topo shows more of a traverse? Anyway was feeling hammered from Spurt
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23 |
★★ Tetris
![]() | 7m, 3 | Waipari | Mon 26th Sep 2022 | |||||||||||||||
Don't known it should start from left corner and climb up before move right. Tried to go straight up from under the bolt which is much harder.
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21 |
★ He Mans Revenge
![]() | 12m, 5 | Waipari | ★ Good | Thu 22nd Apr 2021 | ||||||||||||||
Onsight attempt. Clipped first bolt and got lost.
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21 |
★ He Mans Revenge
![]() | 12m, 5 | Waipari | ★ Good | Thu 22nd Apr 2021 | ||||||||||||||
Second attempt. Can’t be bothered.
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21 |
★ He Mans Revenge
![]() | 12m, 5 | Waipari | ★ Good | Sat 24th Apr 2021 | ||||||||||||||
First go of the day. Not the best route to try to warm up on
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21 |
★ Half a Lager
![]() | 10m, 3 | Waipari | ★ Good | Sun 19th Dec 2021 | ||||||||||||||
A thrash around the bottom on top rope trying more direct start. Big heel hook crank past 1st bolt but couldn't stabilize the resulting position. Skin well cooked, enough.
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21 |
★ He Mans Revenge
![]() | 12m, 5 | Waipari | Sun 9th Jan 2022 | |||||||||||||||
No idea how to go up after first bolt
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18 |
★ Falling Debris
![]() | 15m, 6 | Waipari | Average | Sat 29th Jun 2019 | ||||||||||||||
This could be a nice climb but it was covered in lichen, moss and very wet and dirty at the top. It would be an 18 if it was clean and dry but the top was much much harder in middle-of-winter conditions. I had to bail over to the 17 on the right which has a very dodgy looking anchor
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17 |
★ Summer Song for Scotty
![]() | 12m, 5 | Waipari | Sun 19th Dec 2021 | |||||||||||||||
Hard start indeed, technical and balancy with sucker pockets and invisible feet. Had several attempts to get up to first bolt in various ways but didn't want to commit. Downclimbed fully each time. Skin getting very unhappy. Max made me look sooky.
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Showing all 51 ascents.