Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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5- |
★★★ Østkammen
![]() | 440m | Ofoten | ★★★ Classic | Fri 31st Aug 2018 | ||||
Awesome exposure
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6- |
★★ Råna
![]() | 270m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Sat 8th Sep 2018 | ||||
Difficult route finding with some great pitches up high. Hilde’s first 6
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5+ |
★★ Ørneryggen
![]() | 100m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Fri 7th Sep 2018 | ||||
7- |
★★★ Pan
![]() | 130m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Mon 10th Sep 2018 | ||||
Really nice climbing all the way to the top
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6 |
★★★ Vestpillaren
![]() | 480m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 3rd Jul 2022 | ||||
Such a classic line. For parties wanting to move fast, it can safely be done in 7 pitches by simul-climbing to pitch 2 & then again to P5. From here, pitch out as in the guidebook to a nice ledge 10m above the top of slanting corner (just before the loose block and short wide section). 10/11 can then be linked with a 60m & careful rope management
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6- |
★★★ Gaukerisset
![]() | 65m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Fri 14th Sep 2018 | ||||
More amazing Lofoten climbing
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5 |
★★★ Gun's and Gandalf
![]() | 100m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Sat 16th Feb 2019 | ||||
First climb after the move. First ice chipped off holds with nut tool.
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5 |
★★ Rapellruta
![]() | 48m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Sun 28th Apr 2019 | ||||
w/ the Line's
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6 |
★★★ Gandalf and Rose
![]() | 100m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Thu 25th Apr 2019 | ||||
w/ the Line's
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5+ 5 |
★ Gandalf's kamin
![]() | 110m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Sat 11th May 2019 | ||||
w/ Line
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6+ |
★★★ Svenske Diedret
![]() | 20m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Mon 27th May 2019 | ||||
6 |
★★★ Puffrisset
![]() | 110m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Mon 27th May 2019 | ||||
Pitch 2 is splitter, pitch 3 is runout N6 slab
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6+ |
★★ Landstrykere
![]() | 140m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Mon 3rd Jun 2019 | ||||
6+ |
★ Mordar Anders
![]() | Lofoten | ★ Good | Mon 3rd Jun 2019 | |||||
7 |
★★★ Vestpillaren original avslutning (Original avslutning)
![]() | 160m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 11th Jun 2019 | ||||
The leaning groove pitch would be a crag classic anywhere in the world. Engaging stemming with all of Presten below your feet. Epic!!
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7- |
★★★ Klokkeren
![]() | 150m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Tue 11th Jun 2019 | ||||
6+ |
★★ Variasjon til en variasjon
![]() | 45m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Tue 11th Jun 2019 | ||||
7- ~6+ |
★★★ Tapir
![]() | 20m, 1 | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th Jun 2019 | ||||
7-/7 Hard |
★★★ Djupfjord sprickan
![]() | 20m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Thu 4th Jul 2019 | ||||
An absolute classic and the best line on the South Face. Rack is doubles from 0.4 to #2 plus a 3 & 4 for the OW finish
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6 |
★ Pianisten
![]() | 110m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Fri 5th Jul 2019 | ||||
6- |
★ Dagens rett
![]() | 70m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Fri 5th Jul 2019 | ||||
6+ A0 6+ A0 |
★★ Migan pillaren
![]() | 350m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Wed 10th Jul 2019 | ||||
Some good pitches mixed in with a lot of average climbing. Approach is ok, descent is horrendous (walked off. The abseil line would be much nicer but fixed gear/bolts need replacing).
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4+ |
★★★ Nordryggen
![]() | 510m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 31st Jul 2019 | ||||
2hr30m car to car run. Starting to feel like a local
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7- ~6+ |
★★★ Fire forsøk
![]() | 80m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 17th May 2021 | ||||
The crag classic with P1/2 linked? So goood!
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7 7 R |
★★★ Korstoget
![]() | 390m, 3 | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Tue 23rd Jul 2019 | ||||
Some great climbing with one of Presten´s best pitches down low (P3). The runout pitches arn´t so bad. After the 6+ (P7), quality drops off quickly. Because of this, it´s quite common to traverse at Storhylla & finish up other lines
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6 ~6+ |
★★★ Den siste viking
![]() | 90m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Fri 26th Jul 2019 | ||||
Would seem the Viking’s love a good sandbag
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6- |
★★ Colibrien
![]() | 180m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Sat 27th Jul 2019 | ||||
There´s some great lines on the cliff. This isn´t one of them.
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5+ |
★ Ant Line
![]() | 85m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Fri 2nd Aug 2019 | ||||
7- |
FA
★★★ Nordvestpassasjen
![]() | 370m, 3 | Ofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 10th Aug 2019 | ||||
Gradually steepening handcrack for 100m plus leads to 2 distinctive crux pitches. #4 & #5 handy.
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6+ |
★★★ Englevinger
![]() | 85m, 1 | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 25th May 2021 | ||||
There won´t be a line for this one but it´s 3 varied & high quality pitches. Deserves it´s Top50 guidebook tag
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7 A0 7+ |
★★★ Thanatos
![]() | 220m | Tromsø | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 28th Aug 2019 | ||||
Wow! The rumours are true, this is an outrageous line! Too many cookies for me this summer to send the enduro pitch without pulling on gear
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6+ |
Det svarte beltet
![]() | 120m | Tromsø | Average | Wed 5th Sep 2018 | ||||
7 ~7- |
★★★ Dosethrisset
![]() | 15m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 5th Sep 2019 | ||||
6+ |
★★ Mjölkmustasch
![]() | Lofoten | ★ Good | Fri 20th Sep 2019 | |||||
5+ |
Slemgutt risset
![]() | Lofoten | Average | Fri 20th Sep 2019 | |||||
7 |
★★★ Vårkåt
![]() | 130m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 22nd Sep 2019 | ||||
Doesn´t get much better than this. Extra .3-.5 nice & #3 useful for pitches 2/3
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7- |
★★ Bingekos
![]() | 120m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Wed 25th Sep 2019 | ||||
Great climb with 4 varied pitches. The OW (P2) might just be the crux thou it protects well with a standard rack via a broken seem to the left for all but the last 4/5m (where a tipped #6 fits & is nice to have).
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7 |
★★★ Elvis
![]() | 40m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Thu 26th Sep 2019 | ||||
Sustained and balancy climbing. Bring extra small cams & micro wires.
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6 |
★★★ Ypperstepresten
![]() | 220m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Fri 27th Sep 2019 | ||||
Easy to link into 3 pitches with 60m rope (belay as close as possible to the roof on P1). Good rock & safe gear.
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6+ |
★★★ Månedans
![]() | 95m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 1st Oct 2019 | ||||
Så fin! Linked 1/2. P3 is beautiful, sustained finger jamming in a corner before a burly mantle (or not, I was pumped out of my brain by then) followed by exciting slab to the top. Sandbagged at the grade by Lofoten standards. Recommended!
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7- |
★★ Ole Johnny tribute
![]() | 80m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Tue 1st Oct 2019 | ||||
6 |
★★ Johan Boyer
![]() | 75m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Tue 8th Oct 2019 | ||||
7 |
FA
★★★ Running for Teo
![]() | 130m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Wed 2nd Oct 2019 | ||||
5 |
FA
★ Vegard Ruta 1
![]() | 35m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Wed 2nd Oct 2019 | ||||
5+ |
FA
★ Vegard Ruta 2
![]() | 30m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Wed 2nd Oct 2019 | ||||
6- |
FA
★★ Hun hater meg, det liker jeg!
![]() | 35m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Wed 2nd Oct 2019 | ||||
6 |
FA
★★ At dawn, we ride
![]() | 190m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Thu 3rd Oct 2019 | ||||
5 |
FA
Røyskatten
![]() | 30m | Lofoten | Average | Mon 7th Oct 2019 | ||||
4 |
FA
Bombs over bogans
![]() | 30m | Lofoten | Average | Mon 7th Oct 2019 | ||||
6+ |
★★ Vikingjenta
![]() | 75m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Tue 8th Oct 2019 | ||||
Nice varied climbing. The initial lower block sounds loose & vibrates. Use caution/climb at your own risk for this section.
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6- |
★★ Celebrian
![]() | 530m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Wed 9th Oct 2019 | ||||
Milking the last of the climbing season linking this, Vestpillaren & a couple of laps on Gandalf for an epic Lofoten 30 pitch day
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5 |
★★★ Gollum
![]() | 110m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 17th Oct 2019 | ||||
5 |
★★★ Gandalf
![]() | 100m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Wed 8th Jan 2020 | ||||
If you can keep the rope running straight, a 60m gets you to top from the P1 belay.
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5+ |
★ Smeagul
![]() | 110m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Tue 15th Oct 2019 | ||||
5+ |
★★ Lost Expressen
![]() | 95m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Tue 15th Oct 2019 | ||||
5- |
Lost Gandalf
![]() | 110m | Lofoten | Average | Thu 23rd Aug 2018 | ||||
WI4 |
★★ Ukjent 1
![]() | 80m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Thu 21st Feb 2019 | ||||
M6 |
★ Hvitt pulver
![]() | 70m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Wed 22nd Jan 2020 | ||||
No sun, snow or ice so threw ourselves at this thing in between polar storms. Very glad to have a stoked Vegard charging up just as the next cold front hit
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WI3 |
★★ Venstre side
![]() | 500m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Sat 21st Mar 2020 | ||||
5b |
★ Turboelskeren
![]() | Lofoten | ★ Good | Mon 30th Mar 2020 | |||||
6a+ |
Cobra
![]() | Lofoten | Average | Mon 30th Mar 2020 | |||||
5 |
★★★ Gandalf
![]() | 100m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Thu 17th Oct 2019 | ||||
Gollum is the more secure solo. Wouldn´t do this again..
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4+ |
★★ Venstre risset
![]() | 10m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Thu 9th Apr 2020 | ||||
6- |
Tynn
![]() | 10m | Lofoten | Average | Thu 9th Apr 2020 | ||||
4+ |
★★ Sentrums risset
![]() | 10m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Thu 9th Apr 2020 | ||||
About as good as a 10m 4+ can get. Flott klatring
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6- |
★★ Apa
![]() | 15m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Sat 18th Apr 2020 | ||||
6- |
Chimp
![]() | Lofoten | Crap | Sat 18th Apr 2020 | |||||
Short, loose & akward.
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6- |
★★ Four pitch route
![]() | 80m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Wed 26th May 2021 | ||||
#4 for start of P4 nice
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6+ |
★★ Trollmannens uløselige mysterium
![]() | 20m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Sat 25th Apr 2020 | ||||
#4 for the start & #5 finish works ok
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7- |
★★★ Housewives
![]() | 30m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 30th Apr 2020 | ||||
My favourite finger crack in Lofoten. Sustained & full value for the grade. Couple of extra finger sized pieces nice.
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5+ |
★★ Ant pillar extension
![]() | 90m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Sat 23rd May 2020 | ||||
6b |
★★ Tims drøm
![]() | 17m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Sun 24th May 2020 | ||||
6b |
★ Corona chimney
![]() | 18m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Sun 24th May 2020 | ||||
5 |
★ Stive støvler
![]() | Lofoten | Thu 28th May 2020 | ||||||
5+ |
★★ Haakons vegg
![]() | Lofoten | Thu 28th May 2020 | ||||||
5+ |
★ Arilds vegg
![]() | Lofoten | Thu 28th May 2020 | ||||||
5 |
★ Kjell Oves vegg
![]() | Lofoten | Thu 28th May 2020 | ||||||
6A |
Gråeggen
![]() | Lofoten | Thu 28th May 2020 | ||||||
4+ |
★★ Masse tak
![]() | Lofoten | Thu 28th May 2020 | ||||||
5+ |
Bakkeveggen
![]() | Lofoten | Thu 28th May 2020 | ||||||
5 |
★ Skjult sprekk
![]() | Lofoten | Thu 28th May 2020 | ||||||
6A |
★ Fingeravtrykk
![]() | Lofoten | Thu 28th May 2020 | ||||||
6A |
★ Øverhengende veggen
![]() | Lofoten | ★ Good | Thu 28th May 2020 | |||||
4 |
Stigen
![]() | Lofoten | Thu 28th May 2020 | ||||||
6A |
★★ Meyers gamasjer
![]() | Lofoten | Thu 28th May 2020 | ||||||
6A |
Veggegg
![]() | Lofoten | Thu 28th May 2020 | ||||||
4 |
Flaket
![]() | Lofoten | Thu 28th May 2020 | ||||||
4+ |
Torskeryggen
![]() | Lofoten | Thu 28th May 2020 | ||||||
5+ |
Fiskeøyet
![]() | Lofoten | Thu 28th May 2020 | ||||||
6A |
★ Manteleggen
![]() | Lofoten | Thu 28th May 2020 | ||||||
5 |
Fiskerisset
![]() | Lofoten | Thu 28th May 2020 | ||||||
6A |
★★ Prestentraversen
![]() | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Thu 28th May 2020 | |||||
6- |
★★★ Fingerrisset
![]() | 50m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Sat 11th Jul 2020 | ||||
A fun bonus pitch when your already up there. Lower-off´s a nest of fixed nuts (good slings w/ quicklink)
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6+ |
★★ The Next Best Thing
![]() | 380m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Mon 13th Jul 2020 | ||||
Most people I´ve chatted with seem to enjoy this route. I thought it was total shit. I guess some sections of the lower pitches are nice?
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5+ |
★ Luke Skywalker
![]() | 65m | Lofoten | Average | Wed 22nd Jul 2020 | ||||
Squeezed in something new between the rain. Wouldn´t go back
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6+ |
★★★ Vestveggen
![]() | 350m | Ofoten | ★★★ Classic | Tue 28th Jul 2020 | ||||
Quality climbing, outrageous setting..much less walking than the other routes. What´s not to like?
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6 |
★★★ Vesteggen
![]() | 260m | Ofoten | ★★ Very Good | Tue 28th Jul 2020 | ||||
6A |
★ Lave traversen
![]() | Lofoten | ★ Good | Thu 30th Jul 2020 | |||||
5+ |
Skreihodet
![]() | Lofoten | Thu 30th Jul 2020 | ||||||
7A |
★ Lave taket
![]() | Lofoten | Thu 30th Jul 2020 | ||||||
Don’t think this is 7a?
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