That crack is much harder than it looks. It actually overhangs. Aided through on lead to clean the dirt. I seconded it clean, but it's powerful laybacking. The traverse kick right move is so cool. We found a really cool pitch here.
Marked as redpoint because I had rapped down the wall to check out gear and features. I couldn't make the mantle move work so ran it out left to the dodgyflake and traversed back in. Quite heady doing route finding on the FA, climbing into and out of dead ends and traversing around to find a line. Matt found the mantle move works with an undercling. This headwall is awesome!
First ascent, semi ground up! We ended up doing the wimp version through the roof. I tried the roof but pulling limit moves off a single microcam was not doing it for me. Needs a rap inspection to ensure there is gear and map out the moves here. The headwall is awesome, lovely climbing, protectable but you're going over the roof into the air if you whip!
Headwall offers sweet moves and a spectacular position. 18 is about right if you traverse left to use the big flake. Easier if you take the direct line up.
Took a fall at the start of P1. Odd size crack that made for a better layback then a handjam. Clean from there to top. Ground up onsight FA. Rock quality was good, nice hand jams, fair amount of lichen, felt old school trady like you find on the Apostles. First line up the buttress. Pitched it out but saw it can be combined into a single pitch.
- with
Matthew Robinson
