Ascents in Central Outer Pyrenees having Beta

Me parece increible que una barbaridad como esta está abierta al público sin ningún tipo de control de acceso. Menuda experiencia. Espectacular.

Probablemente te hace falta 6c de depor para hacerla cómodo.

La ferrata más corta y explosiva que he hecho.. algunos movimiento muy largos 😅

Felt quite hard for 7c in my opinion compared with grades at Terredets. Really cool though, liked the little tufas and spicy finale. Tried to onsight the top but fell on 2nd last move (the crux)

Cool small tufa's

Brilliant!

Artificial Parts are tough if you try free.

awsome second part, after the big ridge.

Lots and lots of options for creative cam, sling and nut placements. Joyful climb!

My final trad 'exam' wrapping up my stay. Very beautiful because 100% trad. Good experience to practice reading the friend size beacause the crack varies a bit in width. Crack climbing is all about ignoring that one foot taking all the load I guess... very happy to have lead the harder pitches!

15 pitches. It got hot. Still rehydrating, Pretty good but the aid sections detract IMO. Did a few variations onto CADE and something else for a while. Trouble with no guide book.

Given that we couldn't find almost any bolts, we decided to enter our route via it's neighbour Tierra de Nadie. Pernilla climbed the 4c, I fell pretty deep on the 6a traverse overhang shit part. Burned skin and some bruises for her, whoops. We climbed the 6a, which was hard to find ourselves at the brink of actually entering our route at nightfall, and decided to surrender to the prospects of cold, fatigue, darkness, an A2 roof or a 6b continuation. Fun day though!

Pernilla's birthday adventure. First pitch had a feisty traverse, I grabbed the draw after clipping it, having my last multipitch fall in mind. Second pitch was A0 fun, adding a cam proved worrhwile. Pitch 3 was not too hard, pitch 4 was easy. Pitch 5 had 3 bolts for 50m so was pure trad almost. We arrived at dusk. Then we didn't know how to descent by foot so we got lost for 4 hours with a biting wind and being chilled to the bone. Great adventure (y)

Primeros 4 largos en escalada artificial bastante equipados. Primer largo con un paso de artifo sobre microfriend en agujero de clavo. Tercer largo hemos dejado un clavo para salir del techo, actualmente la secuencia final seria de AE con spit, clavo cutre, microfisurero empotrado, clavo, spit y salida en libre fácil para llegar a la reunión R3. El cuarto largo empieza en AE sobre spits y continúa en 6b duro o bien A1 laborioso

https://verticalpirate-escalade.com/topos-escalade/espagne/sierra-del-montsec/roca-dels-arcs-bambol/

https://verticalpirate-escalade.com/topos-escalade/espagne/sierra-del-montsec/roca-alta/

https://verticalpirate-escalade.com/topos-escalade/espagne/sierra-del-montsec/roca-regina-tropoma/

Nice stretches, but not very continuous.

Pure choss

Entre piedra suelta y arbusto, madre mía qué experiencia 😂

Se merece la fama que tiene. Muy buenos 3er y 4o largo con roca genial y pasos chulos.

Está muy chapada, si se va sobrado de grado se puede hacer en deportiva, aunque hay alejes generosos, así que merece la pena llevar algún cacharro.

Tambień se puede hacer perfectamente sin usar las chapas, ya que todas están en sitios donde se puede colocar protección sin problema. Me imagino que habrá tenido controversia haberle puesto parabolts a esta vía.

El mejor diedro de clásica que he hecho

Swapped leads with Marc. The descent is quite intense.

This is definitely sport bolted, not a trad line.

En tercer largo faltan 3 seguros y en el cuarto falta alguno también,el ultimo antes de cima roca a vigilar buena vía.

Sólo los 2 primeros largos.

3 shots the day before we left. best shot with two rests. Absolutely brilliant like it

A Euro mega classic indeed - sustained tufa walling. Went quite easily when I was warmed up and the moves were kind of sorted

Pretty good on the onsight attempt. Fell just short of a very good kneebar. Would have been in with a shot. Sooo pumped!

Fell lower. Tiiiiired!

Didn't have a stack of energy but just squeaked it in. No moves individually feel hard but hell - putting it all together. Feels like a monster. [3]

Amazing route at the end of the day - loved the top out in the huge overhang!

Tufas are now my friend.

Hard - You finnish on top of Terradets!

Powerful pocket pulling at its best.

End of day get the gear on aid fest. Frikken hell! Topped out in dark. I hope this suffering pays dividends later. Seems a big step up from the 7c+s!

Well, felt a lot better than the day before. Did both the cruxes I struggled with previously.

1st redpoint attempt. Was feeling pretty okay at halfway just before the crux. Launched into the crux and energy went to zero in two moves. Sorted different beta, then went to the top clean which was encouraging. Time for a rest day, then I'll give it another day. But it might just be a bit too hard. We'll see.

Today should have been a rest day, but they're predicting 3 days of rain, and my draws were still up on this. So we came up to get them back. I gave it a red hot crack got a highpoint, but alas. Wasn't to be.

Pumpy little one

Felt a lot harder than the other 8a's and even maybe a little harder than Tirabolts but not sure? I was so scared at the end with the tiny pocket that I couldn't fit my fingers into Luckily I managed to hold it anyway and do the move! PSYCHED!

Onsighted to crimp. May have been intersting if I found the good part of the crimp. Thuggy to the top. Awesome woodys ball warm up

To the crimp move, feet weren't right.

To the finger pinches down low. In too much of a rush to climb well.