Belle ligne, suivre les spits violets puis les spits rouges.
Dans la deuxième partie, l’équipement est très espacé (jusqu’à 20m), y compris sur certains passages engagés.
Prévoir friends et coinceurs à ajouter. Ainsi que du temps perdu à chercher la ligne.
Sûrement une mauvaise idée pour ceux qui n’ont pas une grosse marge sur le niveau.
Great classic route on this gorgeous slab, with not too many bolts altogether. A few cams and some slings would be useful. Prepare for the mental challenge of climbing well above your bolts on easy pitches. Prepare for the cold, in late summer there's no sun until the top.
Consider topping the cross by adding a 6a route.
(5a) Straight up in the corner (metallic sign at the start)
(4a) Stay in the corner, avoid the bolts on the left-hand slab
(5a) Up the slippery chimney
(4a) Still in the corner, few bolts but a lot of jammed stones - use your slings! Some bolts can be up to 10m apart.
(5a) From the anchor point on top of P4, move left about 10 meters on the ridge to find another anchor. In between these two there are two more routes ('Zygofolis' and 'Divine Martine', both names are written next to the start). The continuation of 'Directe' goes straight up and then continues slightly to the right. Placing trad gear is advised as this is the first route on the slab part, with bolts placed 5 to 10m apart.
(4a) Follow the big crack slightly to the right.
(4c) Idem dito.
(4a) Follow the crack to reach the ledge. There's one anchor point just below the next pitch and one on the bigger ridge below.
(5a) Follow the small diagonal crack that goes slightly left.
(5a) Idem dito.
(4a) Keep right. On the left hand side you'll find bolts of the route 'Normale / Y'.
(4b / 5a) Follow the slab to the lowest point of the ridge ahead, climb over the ridge while keeping right.
Set:C. Gollut, E. Wattenhofer & J. Winistorfer, 1963
