Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
{FB} 5C | ★★★ Crescent Arete
Another perfect grit arete. Beautiful climbing up a proud line with a slightly iffy landing, and high enough to make you pay attention. | 7m | Stanage | ||
{FR} 6b+ | ★★ Buoys will be Buoys | Portland | |||
6c | ★★ Downtown Julie Brown
One of many exceptional flowstone pitches in this crag. Initiate by tackling the wall just right of the bolts, for favourable holds. Navigate the progressively intricate wall by executing a slender manoeuver and utilising a minor undercut, leading to a more manageable conclusion on the left. | 22m | Portland | ||
E2 UKT:5c | ★★★ Regent Street | 22m | Millstone Edge | ||
HVS UKT:5c | ★★ Chequers Crack | 12m | Froggatt Edge | ||
6b+ | ★ Kraken
A pleasing pitch as long as the correct line is taken. Start at a steep 3m flake-crack. Take the stiff layback crack to a rest. Move left and pick a way up the wall which reveals some surprising holds. Info taken from the Rockfax 'West Country Climbs' topo FA: F Haden, I Parnell & J Hunt, 1993 | 17m | Brean Down | ||
6c | ★★ Coral Sea
| 20m | Brean Down | ||
{FR} 6c | ★★ No Man is an Island | Portland | |||
E3 UKT:5c | ★★ Long Johns Slab | 14m | Froggatt Edge | ||
V2 | ★★ Joe's Direct Start | 4m | Froggatt Edge | ||
E2 UKT:5c | ★★★ Billy Whizz
FA: Geoff Birtles, 1975 | 18m | Lawrencefield Quarry | ||
{FR} 6b+ | Wake Up Call
Hard lower wall and beefy roof make this worth seeking out. | 14m | Peak District Limestone | ||
{FR} 6b+ | ★★ Lord Stublock Deepvoid Breaks the Chain of Causation | Portland | |||
{FR} 6b+ | ★★ Eye, Eye
A superb eye-catching pitch via a series ofcrusty pockets that run up the leaning wall. Eases with altitude....... | 20m | Peak District Limestone | ||
6b+ | ★★ Shin Gi Tai
| 15m | Wyndcliff Quarry | ||
{FR} 6b+ | ★ Hong Kong Wedding
Through broken rock to the left of a V grove, then tend right to an anchor, right of the thin seam. | 12m, 8 | Wyndcliff Quarry | ||
{FR} 6b/b+ | ★ Inch Perfect, Inchworm
FA: Crispin Waddy, 1987 NA: Pete Oxley, 1988 | 18m | Portland | ||
E4 UKT:5c | ★★ Chalkstorm
An ultra-bold route with gear at around 4m. Side-runners either side lower the grade to somewhere between HVS and E2 dependent on how high they are. | 14m | Staffordshire | ||
E3 UKT:5c | ★★ Four Pebble Slab | 12m | Froggatt Edge | ||
E2 UKT:5c | ★★★ Suspense
FA: Peter Biven, 1956 FFA: John Allen, 1975 | 20m | Lawrencefield Quarry | ||
{FR} 6b+ | Rake It In
| 14m | Peak District Limestone | ||
6c | ★★★ Burning Skies
FA: Pete Oxley, 1995 | Portland | |||
{FR} 6b+ | ★★ Ausfahrt | Portland | |||
6c | ★ Toevice
Follow the crack. Very tricky. | 8m | Kent | ||
6b+ | ★★ Far Left
An enjoyable ascent up the face. Navigate beyond the breaks and shift right to reach the two pockets, leading to a slender finish. | 9m | Kent | ||
V2 FB:6A | ★★ Morrell's Wall | Almscliff | |||
E2 UKT:5c | ★★★ Fern Hill
FFA: Tom Proctor early 1970s FA: Keith MyHill, 1971 | 18m | Peak District Limestone | ||
{FR} 6b+ | ★★ Raise the Titanic | 25m | Portland | ||
6c | ★★ Perspiration
Ascend the overhanging crack gradually and continue upwards with ease. At the top ledge, choose between a direct finish or traverse right to an easier crack. | 12m | Kent | ||
6b+ | ★★ Elementary
Navigate rightwards, through the irregularly contoured fissure. Conclude left of the crack at the peak. Finish direct at 6c. | 9m | Kent | ||
6c | ★★ Queen Anne's Men
| 20m, 4 | Swanage | ||
{FB} 5C | ★★ The Hourglass
Up the arête on the right hand side. | 4m | Stanage | ||
{FB} 5C | ★ Slopey Pokey
Start on two pockets to the right of The Hourglass. | 3m | Stanage | ||
E3 UKT:5c | ★★★ Time For Tea | 20m | Millstone Edge | ||
E1 UKT:5c | ★★★ Tufted Crack | 15m | Ilkley | ||
E1 UKT:5c | ★★ Dead Banana Crack
| 20m | Peak District Limestone | ||
{FR} 6c | ★★ Always Have the Edge | Portland | |||
6b+ | ★★ Bulging Wall
A favoured route ascends the arete, featuring pleasant grips and a challenging section over the bulge that adds to the enjoyment. | 8m | Kent | ||
E3 UKT:5c | ★★★ Western Front
FA: A Austin (solo) | 14m | Almscliff | ||
E2 UKT:5c | ★★★ Black Wall Eliminate | 15m | Almscliff | ||
E1 UKT:5c | ★★ The Toy
| 6m | Curbar Edge | ||
E1 UKT:5c | ★★ The Left Eliminate
FA: Joe Brown & Slim Sorrell, 1951 | 12m | Curbar Edge | ||
{FB} 5+ | ★ Three Pockets
| Curbar Edge | |||
{FR} 6c | ★★★ The Directissima
Left-facing corner under the middle of the roof, with high first bolt. Follow the corner (trending left) to first lower off, then slightly right past additional bolts to lower-off just under the roof. | 27m | Kilnsey | ||
V2 | ★★ Lone Scoop
| Stanage | |||
E2 UKT:5c | ★★★ Scoop Wall
| 25m | Peak District Limestone | ||
6c | ★★ New Saladin | Portland | |||
E2 UKT:5c | ★★ Insanity
| 8m | Curbar Edge | ||
E2 UKT:5c | ★★★ Commander Energy | 18m | Staffordshire | ||
{FR} 6c | ★★ Private Prosecution
| 20m | Peak District Limestone | ||
6c | ★★ Jargon Eater
| 18m, 5 | Swanage | ||
{FR} 6c | ★ Red and Ribbed for Your Pleasure
| 12m | Peak District Limestone | ||
{FR} 6b+ | ★ Megalithic Man
| 20m | Peak District Limestone | ||
6c | ★★ Diversion
Position yourself to the right of the recess and move horizontally for a few metres, then ascend directly to secure a well-angled grip. Finish direct. | 11m | Kent | ||
{FR} 6b+ | ★★★ The Jewel of the Isle
Top 50 climb. Pumpy. Start in the middle of the steep section, through fingery lower wall and finish up thin crack. FA: Pete Oxley, 1995 | 30m | Portland | ||
{FR} 6b+ | ★★ Woke up dreaming
Midway between Boris and the Three Amigos is a prominent square-cut arête with an attractive orange sidewall (that’s immediately visible on high as you enter the quarry). This gives an excellent strenuous pitch starting up the white arête and climbing the steep breccia speckled crack with some big flowing moves linking some unobvious holds. Make sure you keep to the crack at the top (as you pass the last bolt runner) before reaching down right to clip the double ring abseil station. | 6 | Wyndcliff Quarry | ||
E2 UKT:5c | ★★★ Five Finger Exercise
FA: Andy Edgar, 1976 | 22m | Peak District Limestone | ||
{FR} 6c | ★ Babelicious Redhead | Portland | |||
6b+ | ★★ Skinhead Clash | Swanage | |||
{FB} 5+ | ★ Little Arete | Gardom's Edge | |||
{FR} 6b+ | ★★ Return To Roissy | Portland | |||
{FR} 6c | ★★★ Gorilla Tactics
| Swanage | |||
6c | ★ Luncheon Shelf
Climb long layback to the big shelf, traverse left, then stop and have lunch. Finish up cracks above. | 8m | Kent | ||
E2 UKT:5c | ★ Embankment 1
Two pitches, separated by a large ledge. Pitch one feels like an independent line. | 30m, 2 | Millstone Edge | ||
E2 UKT:5c | ★★ Synopsis | 14m | Froggatt Edge | ||
HVS UKT:5c | ★★ Orpheus Wall
FA: Joe Brown, 1950 | 14m | Birchen Edge | ||
6b+ | ★★ Blue Peter
Climb the arete, starting on the left side, but using either side as needed. | 7m | Kent | ||
{FB} 5+ | ★★ Pock Man (Pock Block) | 5m | Burbage Valley | ||
{FR} 6b+ | ★★ When you were little you dreamed you were big | 11m | Portland | ||
6c | ★★ Edward's Effort
A robust ascent along a widened fissure, with a challenging finger-jam required at the halfway point. Shift right to finish as for Diversion, or go directly. | 10m | Kent | ||
{FR} 6b+ | ★ Hot Pants Explosion
FA: Neal Heanes, 1992 | Portland | |||
{FR} 6c | ★★ Galena Colada
A great route albeit with a polished and difficult start. Get past the 1st bolt and some enjoyable climbing that doesn't let up awaits. Plenty of bolts make french-freeing of this route possible. FA: Gordon Jenkin, 2004 | 12m, 9 | Cheddar | ||
E2 UKT:5c | ★★★ The Goblin King
Excellent sustained route through a steep weakness and through the roof. From a forked tree climb the crack to under a roof, move 1m left until you get to a large blue insitu thread. Clip this and move up through the cracks and weakness to the roof. Finish the roof tending slightly right through strenous moves. | 20m | Goblin Combe | ||
{FR} 6c | ★★ Pocket Rocket
| 20m | Peak District Limestone | ||
{FB} 5+ | ★ Left Arete | 4m | Staffordshire | ||
E2 UKT:5c | ★★★ New Horizons II
A good pitch that takes on a fine corner-crack. Start at a right-facing flake crack 10m down from the top of the ramp. Climb the corner past some difficult moves midway, to where it ends at a short steep headwall. Traverse right to better holds and easier ground leading back left to belays. The short headwall can be climbed directly via a long move at 6a. | 18m | Avon Gorge | ||
V2 | ★★ The Lone Arete
| Stanage | |||
{FR} 6c | ★★ Tied in Knots
| Cheddar | |||
{FR} 6b+ | ★ Restless Heart
FA: Mike Robertson, 1993 | 12m | Swanage | ||
{FR} 6c | ★★ Sink the Bismark | Portland | |||
V2 | ★★ Lower Cube Traverse
| 7m | Stanage | ||
6c | ★ Slap Bang on a Hang | Swanage | |||
V2 | The Rim
| 2m | Stanage | ||
{FR} 6b+ | ★ Time of the Month | 15m | Portland | ||
V2 | ★★ The Lone Slab
| Stanage | |||
E2 UKT:5c | ★★ Smaug the Dragon
Start 5m right of Gollum. Climb up carefully to a large undercling in a roofleft. From here, clip the piton (with in situ thread) and pull through. Under the roof walk left to finsh as for Gollum. | 20m | Goblin Combe | ||
{FB} 5+ | ★ Sitdown Arete | Burbage Valley | |||
E2 UKT:5c | ★★★ M.G.C.
| 20m | Borrowdale | ||
VS UKT:5c | ★ Ash Tree Variations | 12m | Burbage Valley | ||
6b+ | ★★ Solstice
Ascend the arete’s left to secure a position on the inclined ledge. Proceed by traversing left across the face to access a series of delicate pockets; power up to finish from here. | 8m | Kent | ||
E3 UKT:5c | ★★★ Cave Crack
FA: Joe Brown, 1950 | 12m | Froggatt Edge | ||
E2 UKT:5c | ★★ Aerobic Wall | 9m | Hound Tor | ||
E2 UKT:5c | ★★★ Quietus
| 14m | Stanage | ||
{FR} 6c | ★★ Out of reach, Out of Mind | Portland | |||
E1 UKT:5c | ★★★ Embankment 2 Eliminate (righthand crack only) | 12m | Millstone Edge | ||
{FR} 6c | ★★ Mayday
FA: Andy Turner, 1986 | 20m | Torbryan Quarry | ||
E4 UKT:5c | ★★★ Wellington Crack | 16m | Ilkley | ||
HVS UKT:5c | ★ Pedlar's Slab
| 11m | Stanage | ||
6b+ | ★★ Little Sagittarius
This climb features slender and intricate movements. Begin by executing a difficult mantel onto the first ledge, then delicately navigate upward to conclude the climb to the right of the tree stump. | 10m | Kent | ||
VS UKT:5c | ★ Lost in France | 8m | Burbage Valley |