Ascents in Lower Gorge Region having Beta

Technical and unique wall route for the RRG.

Had to work bloody hard to onsight this old-school style committing classic, and got rather noisy with no chalk on the top to guide the bouldery finale, but stoked to manage it. A porters pass wandery slab leads to steep cranking and some gripping runouts. Psyched! I got hit on the head by a falling icycle while climbing this!

Hardest I worked all day. Pretty epic trad route given 5 stars. Only 1 usable cam for the first 15m. Climbing high twenties sport routes is surely the key to being able to JUST get up something like this

Despite forgetting to bring much necessary gear, I was cruising until the end of the top diherdral when -with my feet 2 bodylengths above a micro cam- I realised the top slopers were wet from the ice-melt, and I became a religious convert . The crack part is easy and pleasant, the face moves not too bad... the dihedral will haunt my nightmares (but is actually pretty good).

Amazing Laybacking!! perfect cams the whole way, yellow aliens for like 50 feet!! Then to a no hands rest to a much steeper finish, I managed to drop a cam on this last section.. OOPS!!

Some consider it to be 10a to the top set of anchors - all I know is it is one amazing incredibly fun climb - and make sure you don't just finish at the bottom set of anchors, the 'in your face' headwall and handcrack to the top set of anchors are as classic as the lower section, and a perfect way to finish the climb.

Super fingercrack flake which has been worn smooth by 20+ years of constant traffic. So glorious. Van Halen climbed this.

Amazing!!

The dream! Flake Crack but perfect fingers and 25m long!

Fun, very small and crimpy, pretty damn sharp too!

Very cool handcrack flake, but I only had one handcrack-sized cam. Channel the inner Honnold.

Awesome warm up hand crack. Trad is rad!

scary route, wide gear. i only had 3 pieces in 75 feet

off-width grovel

fun holds

very fun for the grade

Exceptional and committing face climbing. Truly a proud onsight by Paul! Pretty tricky for the grade I reckon.

Pretty cool, the beta from alex was super helpful.

Super cool moves, super fun climb, just spectacular

mega classic finger crack of the Red

Must do

Looks kinda choss and nails... climbs like a dream (but still rather nails). Beautiful stemming into exciting laybacking with a burly finish. Bring oodles of small gear.

Felt very exposed clipping the 6th bolt

Ouch... My first true splitter...

Great jamming with a surprisingly burly crux. I wouldnt want to do this if I was a 5.9 climber... nails!

Absolute sinker of handjams at the overhung crack made it so enjoybale. Great way to end a week in Red

Second Ascent

Borrowed a #1 camalot, and 3 wild country tech friends. Now that I could fire in pro near the bottom w/o messing w/ hexes, this sent pretty easily. Placed two #1's in bottom, then threw in the purple hex at the bottom of the wide section. Followed that up with a .75 and #2 camalots near the top.

THE best 10a crack at RRG!!

Nice

C'mon, just commit and stand up!

kind of reachy around the left

lots of fun

Flash but mostly pre placed gear.

first trad climb

Slabby technical start to a sick overhang!! Make the hard clip before launching into much harder ground!!

Clean until midway through the crack. Hard!!

Really enjoyable, if only it wasn't so cold I couldn't feel my fingers

Fell on top rope trying to figure out the roof move. Lieback section was super strenuous, and the roof move was super cool. Rest of the route is pretty straightforward after that. Anchors were kinda sketchy. The book says to rappel off a tree but we couldn't find a good tree to rappel from, so we just rapped off the old bolts.

lovely layback up to the roof. Barely made it through the crux with loads of resting on the rope

Hung on the ledge because I freaked out. Ran out the end as I used all the cams that fit

Small hands to full hands @ switch to slab. Kinda cool, really wigged me out though as I didn't know what to expect and tried to mess around for too long with green and red hexes. I ended up leap frogging a #1 camalot for the bottom section, and never leaving it in the crack. Would send easy with a couple extra #1 camalots and lunch. Placed a red hex at beginning in shallow stopper mode, frogged a #1 camalot, #4 camalot or purple hexentric for the wide section. Threw in a bomber .75 camalot right above, and then a super sweet #2 camalot before the anchors.

Nasty and stout for the grade. Extremely difficult move at the end.

Stick required to set first quickdraw