Ascents in Eastern Gorge Region having Beta

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Showing all 56 ascents.

	Grade	Route	Gear style	Crag	Quality	Climber	Date
	5.11d	★★★ The Infidel	Sport 21m, 6	Red River Gorge	★★★ Mega Classic	Jason McCarthy	Mon 16th Oct 2017
Another perfect rock climb.
	5.11d	★★★ The Infidel	Sport 21m, 6	Red River Gorge		Bibi Garcia	Fri 20th Apr 2018
Awesome climbing!
	5.11c	★★ There Goes The Neighborhood - with Adam, Carly	Sport 29m	Red River Gorge		Frank Madden	Tue 25th Oct 2016
Super good low crux with a very sustained finish.
	5.11c	★★ There Goes The Neighborhood - with Art, Leah, Colin	Sport 29m	Red River Gorge	★★ Very Good	Will Vidler	Thu 28th Nov 2019
Stiff warm up and introduction to Red River pocket pulling. Awesome climb with a few tricky pulls
	5.11c	★★ There Goes The Neighborhood - with Will Vidler	Sport 29m	Red River Gorge	★★ Very Good	Paul Frothy Thomson	Thu 19th Dec 2019
Not great rock, but enjoyable technical climbing on weird holds. The lower half is intense at the grade.
	5.11b	★★ Eye of the needle	Sport 21m	Red River Gorge	★★★ Classic	patrick price	Tue 1st Nov 2005
A nice break from the steep.
	5.11b	★★ Eye of the needle	Sport 21m	Red River Gorge	★★ Very Good	Wayne Novach	Fri 14th Apr 2006
sweet arete climb
	5.11b	★★★ Prime Directive	Sport 29m, 11	Red River Gorge	★★★ Classic	Jason McCarthy	Mon 16th Oct 2017
Apparently not many people onsight this line. I had fun and cruised this super cool route. There are no tricks just climbing.
	5.11b	★★ Eye of the needle - with Ethan	Sport 21m	Red River Gorge	★★★ Classic	Gabe Grayum	Tue 14th Nov 2017
Excellent climb
	5.11b	★★ Eye of the needle	Sport 21m	Red River Gorge		Bibi Garcia	Fri 20th Apr 2018
Exposed and thought-provoking. Really enjoyed this one.
	5.11b	★★★ Prime Directive	Sport 29m, 11	Red River Gorge	★★★ Mega Classic	Luca Keushguerian	Mon 30th Apr 2018
Best route in the RRG!
	5.11b	★★ Eye of the needle	Sport 21m	Red River Gorge		J.R.	Sun 30th Nov 2014
Awesome arete! Cool moveent and holds on arete.
	5.10d	★★ Jack in the Pulpit	Sport 20m	Red River Gorge		J.R.	Tue 2nd Feb 2016
This was the warm up for the day. It was fun with some interesting moves down low (underclings). Up top, I went left because it was easier. After I sent I went straight up and it was also reasonable, but maybe 11a. I think most folks go left.
	5.10c	★★★ Store	Sport	Red River Gorge		J.R.	Sun 22nd Mar 2015
It was wet.
	5.10b	★★ Funkadelic	Sport 27m	Red River Gorge	★ Good	Wayne Novach	Fri 14th Apr 2006
slab-tastic
	5.10b	★★ Funkadelic	Sport 27m	Red River Gorge		J.R.	Sun 30th Nov 2014
Fun, but way runnout at top.
	5.10a	★★ Manic Impression	Sport 27m	Red River Gorge	★ Good	Wayne Novach	Sun 3rd Jul 2005
slab-tastic
	5.10a	★★ Manic Impression - with Ethan	Sport 27m	Red River Gorge	★★ Very Good	Gabe Grayum	Tue 14th Nov 2017
Nice
	5.10a	★★★ Headstone Surfer	Trad 27m	Red River Gorge	★★★ Mega Classic	Noah Boudreau-Richard	Tue 29th Oct 2019
The best climb I've done of the style.
	5.10a	★★★ Headstone Surfer - with Art, Leah, Colin	Trad 27m	Red River Gorge	★★★ Classic	Will Vidler	Thu 28th Nov 2019
First route in the Red and it’s a trad climb, oh yeahhh! A brilliant easy corner!!
	5.10a	★★ Manic Impression	Sport 27m	Red River Gorge		J.R.	Sun 30th Nov 2014
Fun. A little runout at top.
	5.8	★★★ It Ain't Over Yet	Trad 18m	Red River Gorge	★★★ Classic	Tom	Tue 13th Apr 2010
One of the best in the Red for its grade!
	5.11b	★★★ Smokin' Joe	Sport	Red River Gorge	★★★ Classic	Lee Cujes	Sat 29th Sep 2012
This was a very good pocket line.
	5.11b	★★★ Prime Directive - with Will Vidler	Sport 29m, 11	Red River Gorge	★★ Very Good	Paul Frothy Thomson	Thu 19th Dec 2019
Onsight from the crux up, flash to that point. Awesome 5.10ish arete climbing to the crux, to a rather committing and sandbagged move to gain the slab, then pleasant padding afterwards. Rock isnt mind-blowing, but the climbing is at the grade.
	5.12a	★★★ Go Easy Billy Clyde! - with Ethan	Sport 25m, 8	Red River Gorge	★★★ Classic	Gabe Grayum	Fri 17th Nov 2017
Beta intensive up high
	5.11c	★★ There Goes The Neighborhood	Sport 29m	Red River Gorge		J.R.	Sun 20th Sep 2015
Difficult technical section at the 3rd bolt. Got cought trying to use the chalked holds. When I tried other not chalked holds I found beta that worked for me.
	5.11b	★★★ King Me	Sport 30m	Red River Gorge	★★ Very Good	Wayne Novach	Sat 17th Sep 2005
sweet groove feature
	5.11b	★★★ Prime Directive	Sport 29m, 11	Red River Gorge	★★★ Classic	Wayne Novach	Sat 12th Nov 2005
1st shot of the day, 2nd time on route, hung the draws. sweet.
	5.11b	★★★ Prime Directive	Sport 29m, 11	Red River Gorge		J.R.	Sun 20th Sep 2015
Awesome! I love aretes and the spice level makes this great. I took a crazy whipper at the crux and swung under the prow! Second go I put a locker draw on that bolt for some confidnce and tip-toed through the balancy/techy crux.
	5.11b	★★★ King Me	Sport 30m	Red River Gorge		J.R.	Sun 22nd Mar 2015
A little pumpy leading to the crux move at the buldge. Almost got it first go, but followed the chalk, which did not work for me.
	5.11b 5.11a	★★★ Super Dario	Sport 20m	Red River Gorge	★★ Very Good	Wayne Novach	Sat 17th Sep 2005
big flake at top
	5.11b 5.11a	★★★ Super Dario	Sport 20m	Red River Gorge		J.R.	Sun 22nd Mar 2015
Manky start.
	5.11d	★★★ The Infidel	Sport 21m, 6	Red River Gorge	★★★ Classic	Wayne Novach	Sun 3rd Jul 2005
Another shot, to a big whip, next time will go. Pumper.
	5.12c	★★★ Orange Juice - with Duncan	Sport 29m	Red River Gorge	★★★ Mega Classic	Lee Cujes	Sat 29th Sep 2012
Biggest tantrum ever after dropping it after the very tricky crux. Very naughty. [2]
	5.12c	★★★ Orange Juice	Sport 29m	Red River Gorge	★★★ Mega Classic	Jason McCarthy	Mon 16th Oct 2017
The route I came to the RRG to climb. Hard bouldery face climbing split by easier climbing and some good rests. Warmed up bolt to bolt, then on the 2nd shot fell with my hand on the finishing jug of the last crux - nearly cried. Sent 3rd shot whilst in a flow state. Ultra-classic rock climbing.
	5.12c	★★★ Orange Juice - with Paul Frothy Thomson	Sport 29m	Red River Gorge	★★★ Classic	Will Vidler	Thu 19th Dec 2019
Possibly the most unexpected send I have ever had. Another completely arctic day and my first lap was an absolute debacle. Such it was that when I tied in on my second go with the first three bolts clipped to practice the opening boulder sequence, I was very surprised to somehow find myself flash pumped out of my brains and with no feeling left in either of my hands at the rest jug below the crux. Gradually, whilst hanging on this jug, some feeling came back into my hands and my arms de-pumped entirely and I floated to the top like it was a 5.7 hand crack as massive chunks of ice fell off the route and smashed all around me. Surreal. Face climbing is the freaking best. Not a perfect ascent because of the pre-clipped draws at the start but I feel comfortable claiming it. Two goes today with one very poor attempt to half height on my first day.
	5.12c	★★★ Orange Juice - with Will Vidler	Sport 29m	Red River Gorge	★★★ Classic	Paul Frothy Thomson	Thu 19th Dec 2019
2nd shot. This did not make for a good warmup, and the 2nd shot send was a total surprise, as i thought I had no chance. Similar to a bentrovato wall face route on slightly better rock, marred only by a genuinely unpleasant main crux. To go from fear-of-frostbite after wading across the creek, to dodging icefall and Sending... rad!
	5.10a	★★★ Headstone Surfer - with Neil	Trad 27m	Red River Gorge		Lee Cujes	Sat 29th Sep 2012
Trad climbing! What the?
	5.8	★★★ Good Times	Trad 30m	Red River Gorge	★★ Very Good	Adrian Cubillos	Thu 26th Sep 2013
Cleaning gear.
	5.12c	★★★ Orange Juice	Sport 29m	Red River Gorge	★★★ Mega Classic	Wayne Novach	Sat 12th Nov 2005
awesome, hardest at bottom. gave it another go. Very close, got all the moves figured, too hard to try twice in a day, but soon...
	5.12c	★★★ Orange Juice - with Ethan	Sport 29m	Red River Gorge	★★★ Mega Classic	Gabe Grayum	Tue 14th Nov 2017
Checking it out. Middle crux is hard but doable.
	5.12c	★★★ Orange Juice	Sport 29m	Red River Gorge		Bibi Garcia	Fri 20th Apr 2018
Hard start, hard middle, hard finish, always exceptional. Incredibly aesthetic line and all of the non-cruxy climbing is phenomenal.
	5.12c	★★★ Orange Juice - with Art, Leah, Colin	Sport 29m	Red River Gorge	★★★ Classic	Will Vidler	Thu 28th Nov 2019
Al class all the way. I didn’t have the mojo after my 20 hours in transit but this is a sensational line. Hopefully I’ll be back!
	5.12c	★★★ Orange Juice	Sport 29m	Red River Gorge	★★★ Mega Classic	Bibi Garcia	Sun 7th Nov 2021
Draws / warm up
	5.12c	★★★ Orange Juice	Sport 29m	Red River Gorge	★★★ Mega Classic	Bibi Garcia	Sun 7th Nov 2021
One hang!
	5.12b	★ The Rifleman	Sport 30m	Red River Gorge	★ Good	Wayne Novach	Sat 17th Sep 2005
runout and a ridiculous move at the top
	5.12b	★ The Rifleman	Sport 30m	Red River Gorge		Bibi Garcia	Tue 23rd Nov 2021
Hard crux!
	5.11d	★★★ The Infidel	Sport 21m, 6	Red River Gorge	★★★ Classic	Wayne Novach	Sun 3rd Jul 2005
pumper
	5.11d	★ Martin Rides Again	Sport 21m	Red River Gorge	★ Good	Wayne Novach	Sat 17th Sep 2005
dirty, has not been climbed in a while
	5.11d	★★ Dave the Dude	Sport 21m, 7	Red River Gorge		J.R.	Tue 2nd Feb 2016
Moderate to the fifth bolt then and reachy or dynamic move to the flake. It looks like there are two paths: 1) left at the 4th bolt to a mono out left and a compression move to the blunt flake or 2) right and transition left with a left foot backstep to bring the hip in and a gaston to the lower part of the detached flake with a crow hop to adjust feet. I was able to do the move view option 2. It is not over then, as you need to bring over your right hand to the flake and use the 2-3 finger
	5.11c	★★ There Goes The Neighborhood	Sport 29m	Red River Gorge	★★ Very Good	Wayne Novach	Fri 14th Apr 2006
stout in the middle
	5.11c	★★ L'lle Au Ciel	Sport 15m	Red River Gorge	★★ Very Good	Wayne Novach	Sun 3rd Jul 2005
starts at a ledge 50 ft up
	5.11c	Sick Puppies	Sport 15m, 4	Red River Gorge		J.R.	Tue 2nd Feb 2016
One hung this first go. Should have sent. Being fresh made inaccuracies in the beta and technique not matter, but the more tries I made the more I needed to get the beta right. I eventually figured it out efficiently, but by then I was wasted. I really need to look for the best body position, the best way to grip the hold, the best option, not just what works. BETA ALERT: at 5th bolt left hand 2 finger pocket lean right. Right hand to 3 finger slopper. Left hand to second section of 3 fin
	5.11b	★★★ Prime Directive - with Paul Frothy Thomson	Sport 29m, 11	Red River Gorge	★★★ Classic	Will Vidler	Thu 19th Dec 2019
I was a bit done with the cold and various anxieties about my trip so I had a very poor effort on this. Onsighted to the end but didn’t do the crux and couldn’t be bothered working it out. Felt kinda sandbagged. Amazing climbing though!
	5.11b	★★★ Prime Directive	Sport 29m, 11	Red River Gorge		J.R.	Sun 30th Nov 2014
Cool route. Got scetched going to 10th bolt and called in the stick clip. Did moves And hung the 11th and anchors, but man that is heady! Move right, crimp/slopper to small flat rail and decent feet. High step to balancy stance with no hands. Scketch back left, somehow hang the draw and make a big move to arete jug off of a slopper/smear foot.
	5.13a	★★★ Appalachian Spring	Sport	Red River Gorge		Bibi Garcia	Fri 20th Apr 2018
Had to clip up to get through the long crux move but felt pretty close. Stoked to give this another working burn when I'm a little less gassed.

Showing all 56 ascents.

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Ascents in Eastern Gorge Region having Beta

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