Ascents in West Virginia by Vanessa Wills

Split personality route. Probably would have climbed better as a mixed trad route with better bolt placements. Not a fan.

Someone had to clean it. Not great to lead or second, felt harder than 10a if you are short off the hands free ledge at 5th bolt. MP gives it 5.10c/d which is more realistic. Nice start but the bolting, rock and line after that aren’t great.

Nice route, good warm up

Nice wall with interesting climbing due to the diagonal nature of the bedding plane

Nice moves, would get very good if ledge not there

Spaced bolts, no stopper moves

Had to do it for the name. Was actually quite good.

Liked the finishing finger crack. Did not like move to arete.

Nice route, found near the start hardest, but probably height related due to steeper feet. The “ crux” was ok.

Overhanging Fist crack- maybe if you have men hands, more like overhanging offwidth start. Didn’t even like the traverse around the corner or the crack to the top that much which were straightforward compared to start.

I wasn’t a fan. Hard to get out of sentry box type bit. The whole thing felt dirty and slippery.

Two goes, on lead, then top rope. Very cruxy, major issue getting to first decentpod with the negative 9 cm ape factor my right arm has. Not sure it’s worth further time. Nice line though.

Great route, 5.10 c in guidebook. Cool mono and lots of good moves

Nice enough, I clearly need fist jam practice- this one actually fitted my fists

Thought a move on this was harder than either of the 5.9s to the left

Really liked this one despite the easy middle

Nice route, not as good as brolga etc though

Nice and long, a pain to descend.

We were meant to be having an easier day but got bored. Then it rained. Figured out a functional sequence to third bolt, then it’s all much easier. Hopefully will get back

Came back to do it, gave up my static beta and jumped after the crux traverse as it seemed more certain. Onsighted from 3rd bolt to end

Nice climb, 4 distinct sections with hands free rests. 11c on Mountain project and in guide book.

Fora short route it packed a punch. A gnarly warm up for me

Much easier than smooth operator. Quite nice.

Ha ha, “ the fist crack” at the start was hard for me, ended up having to layback it to do it clean at some hard grade after trying all sorts of crazy moves. The rest of the route is great.

Some amazing holds and a long journey on mostly TCUs and some finger/ thin hand pieces. Gear sometimes spaced.

No one seems to do the end any more, full of cobwebs

What a great route. Steep and looks improbable.

Overhanging hand jams. My gloves both lost wrist strap but I hung in there

Route was pretty dirty, but good moves. Not sure I would lead it without checking out gear. It is there, but spaced.

My right shoulder just can’t handle V grooves any more. Had to change sequence at start. Rest of it was fine.

Not 12b. Given 11d on MP, 24 Australian seems fair. I don’t have the reach for the “ single move” even with super high feet, but did multiple crimpy moves immediately right of the bolt that worked out well.

Nice enough on its own, but really a link up of two routes

Nice climb. I wore my thongs to belay Dave and had to explain joke

Much easier than all the 5.9 trad classics at NRG, could also be led on trad safely.

Interesting final moves made the route

Fun trad climb. #5 handy.

Some nice moves but so caked in chalk it was unpleasant, especially the final moves above the last bolt.

Found it easier than the route to the right, the grades could be reversed.

Liked this better than route to left, though used shorter person traverse in for the start. First route at NRG

Generally fun, like many of the routes here way overchalked. I spent the climb blowing the excess chalk off the holds.