Ascents in Medlicott Dome

i know the first pitch isn't brilliant, but how the hell does this only get one star??? second pitch is absolutely incerdible!

First pitch not much to write home about. Second pitch very nice

The best hold in the crux broke off 2 yrs ago and is definitely harder now. Might be 14a now??

first pitch is dirty but the rest of the climb is grat

TRS the 5.6 access pitch, P1 and P2 as a giant 90m pitch. Would be true megaclassic with 3 more bolts in 90m (and only R-rated, instead of X-rated). It has some bolts to stop it being utter death, so why not be reasonable? I cruised the access pitch; clean P1 to the v5 crux (lots of falls to figure THAT out), then clean to the end; 1 fall off the belay on P2, then clean to anchors. An epic fight! Stunning, steep, hyper-technical thin knob climbing on an immaculate black streak. Truly stunning!

led 2d pitch in 1997

Second pitch is awesome knob pulling. Rap after pitch 3.

super fun chickenheads for days and days

Partnered with Bill. SANDBAG. Interesting first pitch. Very thin gear start. Last bolt to anchors is exciting to a little scary. About 20 foot run to anchor. We didn't do sencond pitch due to the heat.