Ascents in World as Flash by John Pitcairn

Also bloody good. Started in a post-lunch coma but woke up pretty fast. Great slabby moves, fairly sustained at 20+ most of the way. Possibly 3 stars if it was cleaner, though it's clean enough if you trust the occasional lichen smear. Should have led it dammit, will be back for that.

Draws on to crux after Amy had a go. Spent considerable time getting up, feeling around, getting down, repeat. In the end it was really only one or two tricky moves, and 4 people all found different beta. Mine kept the feet on and the body mostly upright. Quite fun.

The name perhaps refers to it being a squeeze route, easily escapable into the routes either side. Pretty crimpy, tiny feet and smears, really hot rock by late morning, considerable ooze required. Surprised I got it clean.

Bloody great, cool crux moves with beta from Frankie.

Quite strenuous. Climbed past crux cam to welcome rest then downclimbed to get it out. Really enjoyed this.

Draws on. Started a smidge right of the bolts in the shallow scoop, crossed left at break and bulge with a little pocket beta from Jonno. Maybe that's not how it's supposed to go, but pretty soft for 21? 20 at most, maybe even hard 19.

Draws on. Grubby but climbable, monkeying around on a juggy overhang. Fun enough but feels a bit gym, and short. Would probably be more pleasing if cleaner. And not 21.

Surprised myself a bit by sailing up it without much thought. Lead might be different.

Yup, overgraded. Retrieving Magnus' draws.

Perhaps a bit harder since the jug fell off some years back. Helps to be not too short - watch out on the bitey sharp hold that gets you through the top crux. Gonna be a fairly nervy lead I think.

Had to think very hard at the cruxes, pleased to get up it clean on TR. Will be a good lead fight.

A long long belay session while Gareth worked it, so had a fair bit of pocket beta. Felt soft for 20, foot placement starting the crux is crucial.

Draws on. A valiant near miss on the onsight by Grant. Crux is through the first 2-3 bolts, then it's all over.

Seems I've never been on this. I'd remember. Bastard hard start, very thankful for the stick clipped first bolt. Missed the good holds over the bulge to arrive on the slab surprised I was still on. High left foot rock up and right palm down over the top lip, worked well. Vague sense of accomplishment.

Interesting and delicate. Was coached through the gear placement before the crux by Matthias, thanks.

Nice thin sequence at the crux, eases considerably after that.

Not my idea of a first climb for the trip warmup but proved easier than expected. Nice knee bar before crux. Will return to lead.

Not quite onsight, had seen ShiChang’s monster plummet a couple of years back and took a look at the top from the anchors opposite. Why had I been putting this off? Much softer than expected, the crux traverse and headwall flow nicely and there is plenty of gear. I think Aardvark is harder on lead, but this is a beautiful climb.

Draws on. Stayed on face. Quite good but points off for retrobolting and squeezing ATGML and AA.

Draws on. Felt a bit awkward, maybe not the best warmup. One star at most.

Draws on. Straight up to first bolt, nice right hand jams around midway, then head left.

Really rather good

Balancy start, neato face climbing thereafter. The feature on the upper face resembles a bee if you have good drugs.

Quite soft, but really rather good and huge fun. Been eyeing this up for a couple of visits. Can't claim the onsight after belaying next to a couple of ascents and some unsolicited beta from Muki, ha.

Belayed Grant's onsight without paying sufficient attention, then had a go myself. Quite small holds getting past the second bolt, spent a while going up and down before committing.

It's either overgraded or a bit contrived (if you aren't supposed to jam the obvious crack) or both, but quite nice. Would go on gear.

Nervy balancy wee number in places, sketchy top out. Maybe we were too far left but the arete was pretty green in the first half.

Pretty damn good, keeps you thinking a bit. Seems I read the moves through the middle section better than Phil, found it not too pumpy. Runout above the roof but much easier climbing.

The pocket-bingo at the top-out is a bit typically tedious.

Never thought this looked all that good, but it is. Don't get sucked left too early in the scoop, and save some oomph for the final layback in the enticing high dihedral.

Huh. Not as hard and strong as it looks, rewards good footwork. Back on the list for a lead.

Nice cleaning job Gareth. LH start, good moves on the arete, similar feeling to P1 of After The Sunset. 19 is a bit of a stretch I think, LH is 18. Incoming rain drove us back to camp.

How have I managed to avoid this for 10 years? It's pretty damn good. Looks like you could once keep going after the anchor but bolt on arete has been flattened.

Draws on. No chance of doing the direct, but sneaking left really feels like cheating.

Not sure whether we were on this or Climb Into The Unknown. A hard start and some decent climbing after, but very poor bolting means you are looking at a groundfall from the crux between bolts 1 and 2, be careful, do not high clip bolt 2, belayer pay close attention. Grant came off...

Back for a proper go. Bouldery start then delicate moves up to meet Rohan's Little Sister. Think it's probably 18 unless you're supposed to crank straight up over the nose, which would be an eliminate. Adds a very worthwhile few metres.

Draws on. Pulled straight through the roof rather than left. I think solid 17. Finish might be a bit nervy if pumped.

A bit soft and not terribly memorable.

Draws on. Dodging showers. Probably went a little far left at the crux, but that's what squeeze routes get you.

Balancy to the first bolt.

Large drumming flake...

Rather better than it looks. Belayed Grant's onsight first. Hands a bit chewed afterwards but.

Date speculative. Thought we would check it out, plenty of loose stuff being kicked off the top by feral pukekos.

Flows nicely, I like it.

Really good and worth the approach (we came in left). A dicky but adequately protected move or two on finger locks across an exfoliating slab to get established in the crack (crux), then interesting features, a wide range of gear and some good jamming. Possible dodgy block at the top overlap, make up your own mind. Recommended. Ran out of evening but will come back for Five Ring Circus which looks fun.

Better overall than Frenz, and the bottom moves are harder especially if you stop to get a high piece in before committing.

Really good, pumpy through middle.

Quite good but mossy at bottom. Bring a brush next time ... clipped the anchor and straight into Tiger by the Tail.

Nowhere near 18.

Hardish start then nothing to get excited about.

Draws on. After gorse working bee and in need of shade. Better than it looks.

Draws on. In for the 5th ascent, after Greg. Start is probably the crux, once you're on the arete it's plainer sailing and good fun. Nice moves to be had. Also, according to the crag, my 666th unique ascent...

Nice lead from Jonno. Great route, reminiscent of Arapiles watchtower slabbing. Left the anchor in place for convenience.

Think Jonno strayed too far right, missed the spike, exited right instead of left. Getting hot and blowy, time to leave. Keen to return and lead it.

Enjoyable enough. Grant led it first.