Affichant les 81 ascensions total.
Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mer 6 Déc 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 松顶拱壁区 Pinecrest Buttress | ||||||
5.10+ |
★★★ Scarface 2
![]() | 25m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Repeat
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Mer 6 Déc 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.10a ~5.10b |
★★ Screaming at the Moon
![]() | 30m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Linked the 2 pitches. Was an excellent last route of the trip!
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5.12b |
Yellow Brick Road Rage
![]() | 35m, 5 | ||||
Fell above the 2nd bolt and back cleaned back to the anchor.
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5.11- |
★★ Zhoulei's Flake
![]() | 15m | ★ Bon | |||
Mar 5 Déc 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
晚餐岩 Dinner Wall 白垩纪区 Cretaceous Area | ||||||
5.13d |
★★★ The Firewall
![]() | 78m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Reason 644 to return to China. Unreal! Repeated the first two pitches to check out the amazing P3. About 5.12- to a good rest half way, then the angle kicks back even more and the jams get consistently thinner. It tests every size thoroughly from 2-.3 with at least 2m of each size. I did all the moves but would need to improve my technique in .75. The pump would be all time by the fingers section where the feet run out. Definitely a dream route!
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Sam 2 Déc 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
晚餐岩 Dinner Wall 洞区 Cave Area | ||||||
5.13d |
★★★ The Honeycomb Dome
![]()
1
5.12+
25
grimpé en tête par
Patrick Munnings
Trying to be as efficient as possible I sat at one cam at the start.
2
5.13d
20
grimpé en tête par
Patrick Munnings
Another insane pitch of rock climbing. Aided about 2/3 of the pitch but was amazing to check it out. Reason no. 634 to return to China | 45m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
5.8 |
★★ Sword Ladder
![]()
1
5.8
2
5.8
| 60m | ★ Bon | |||
Jeu 30 Nov. 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.10 |
★★ Highway to Hell
![]() | 35m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Lun 27 Nov. 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
晚餐岩 Dinner Wall 洞区 Cave Area | ||||||
5.12+ |
★★★ Another World
![]()
1
5.12+
| 45m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Climbed with the first piece pre-placed from an earlier attempt falling at the crux. The best crack pitch of my life so far. Exposed, powerful and varied. Was an incredibly desperate send and nearly pumped out in multiple places. So good!
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5.8 |
★★ Sword Ladder
![]() | 60m | ★ Bon | |||
Installed glue in anchors on all three pitches, repeated to access Honeycomb Dome
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5.12c/d Difficile |
★★★ Curse of the Rainshed
![]() | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Felt good to put this away at the end of a hard session on Another World. My absolute anti-style but super fun and very unique.
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Lun 27 Nov. 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
晚餐岩 Dinner Wall 白垩纪区 Cretaceous Area | ||||||
5.10+ |
★★★ Wind of the Valley
![]() | 30m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Dim 26 Nov. 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
晚餐岩 Dinner Wall 洞区 Cave Area | ||||||
5.12+ |
★★★ Another World
![]()
1
5.12+
20m
| 20m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
The new best pitch of crack climbing I have done in my life, steep tight hands, amazing snaking shape of the crack, variety of moves and such an exposed position 😜
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5.8 |
★★ Sword Ladder
![]()
1
5.8
2
5.8
3
5.8
| 60m | ||||
Linked all three pitches to rig a fixed line and access Another World
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Ven 24 Nov. 2023 - 石鼓 Shigu | ||||||
Bai Yan Si 白岩寺 | ||||||
5.11c |
★★★ Allegory of the Caves 洞穴寓言
![]()
1
5.10a
28m
2
5.10c
30m
3
5.10d
33m
4
5.11c
30m
5
5.7
40m
6
5.7
40m
7
5.10b
25m
8
5.8
23m
9
5.11b
32m
10
5.10a
26m
11
5.8
31m
12
5.7
35m
13
5.9
35m
14
5.9
33m
15
5.8
35m
16
5.6
40m
17
5.5
25m
| 540m, 14 | ★★★ Classique | |||
A wonderful two days climbing to the summit of Bai Yan Si. The route is very approachable and route finding was fairly common sense. Stoked to spend the night in the cave at pitch 12 and play some cards and drink too much baiju. The altitude made me work pretty hard and climbing with a pack meant the hard free moves were not so approachable. Pulled on one draw at the crux of both hard pitches. Was a memorable adventure with wonderful company.
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Jeu 23 Nov. 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
晚餐岩 Dinner Wall 洞区 Cave Area | ||||||
5.12 |
★★★ Ding Dong’s Crack
![]() | 30m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Sublime! Fought hard and beat the bloody ringlocks.
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5.9 |
★★ Pineapple Upside-down Cake
![]() | 16m | ||||
Dim 19 Nov. 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
晚餐岩 Dinner Wall 洞区 Cave Area | ||||||
5.11c |
IL Mignolo Col Prof
![]() | 16m | Pas la peine | |||
Dirty and not so great rock. Moves were good. The anchor was super sketchy
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5.12 |
★★★ Ding Dong’s Crack
![]() | 30m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Turns out I can't really ringlock. Will try again.
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5.9 |
★ Apple Crumble
![]() | 18m | ★ Bon | |||
Jeu 16 Nov. 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
Secret Garden | ||||||
5.10d ~5.11a |
Orange Crush
![]() | 25m | ★ Bon | |||
Moves were cool, but the rock was a bit ordinary.
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5.10d |
FangBanMian
![]() | 25m, 4 | Pas la peine | |||
Mer 15 Nov. 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.13c/d PG - R Difficile |
★★★ Air China
![]() | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Classique | |||
OMG unexpected, but first lead attempt I climbed this better than ever and flowed to the top. So happy to come away with this tick from an amazing time in China. Huge thanks to Hannah for the belay / hiking efforts.
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Mar 14 Nov. 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
守护者山谷 The Guardian Valley 守护者 The Guardian | ||||||
5.11c |
★★ The Gift (Left Variation)
![]() | 26m | ||||
Right variation full pitch, harder than it looks.
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5.12b |
★★★ Eagle eyed Super Hawk
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classique | |||
The most wild move I've done outside of a climbing gym. A wall run to a jug on an arete and then beautiful climbing to the top. Sick!!
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5.11b |
★★ Brazen Hussie
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Also great. One long pitch.
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5.10a |
★★ Sahara
![]() | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Super quality.
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Dim 12 Nov. 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
守护者山谷 The Guardian Valley 守护者 The Guardian | ||||||
5.11d |
★★ The Sphinx
![]()
1
5.11d
2
5.10d
| 40m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Rad, tricky offwidthing just after turning a roof. Linked the two pitches for more goodness. Some awkward sizes.
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5.11 ~5.11+ |
★★★ Akhum Rah
![]() | 27m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Super quality, interesting and sustained long pitch of thin climbing
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5.11d |
★★★ Flight of The Locusts (half)
![]() | 15m | ★★★ Classique | |||
great technical straight in fingers
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5.11- |
★★ Wing and a Prayer
![]() | 25m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Cool roof sequence and some interesting movement of various styles the whole way.
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Sam 11 Nov. 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
假日区 The Holidays 四季区 Four Seasons Area | ||||||
5.11+ |
★★ I'll Be Your Huckleberry
![]()
1
5.10d
20
2
5.11+
30
| 50m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Would be a classic if the rock quality was better. Quite flakey. A 50m pitch with all sorts of sizes and techniques. It definitely beat me with two sits in the offwidth. Climbed in one pitch.
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5.11a |
★★ International House of Pancakes
![]() | 12m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Excellent quality, bit short and definitely scary with a runout that gets close to groundfall potential.
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Sam 11 Nov. 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 五彩岩 Painted Wall | ||||||
5.11d |
★★ Not Too Far From the Border Corner
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Excellent, however, full layback pitches are kind of not so exciting. If it was longer and pumpier it might have added some interest but pretty much the same move the whole way.
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5.13a |
★★★ Symphonie de Liberte
![]() | 35m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Amazing hard corner climbing. Did not free the bolted section due to not identifying a single hold or body position. After this the rock and climbing is absolutely tops.
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Mar 7 Nov. 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 原始北区 Primitive Area North | ||||||
5.11+ |
★★ I Don’t Like Chickens
![]() | 17m | ★★ Excellent | |||
5.8 |
★★ Through the Looking Glass
![]() | 14m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Mar 7 Nov. 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.11 |
★★★ Dungeons and Dragons
![]() | 30m | ||||
Whipped from the overhanging offwidth trying to manage my rope.
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5.10 |
★★ Dancing with Dragons
![]() | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Awesome
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5.13c/d PG - R Difficile |
★★★ Air China
![]() | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Broke the best hold off the route today making the easier start a grade or two harder. Worked out better beta for the start and the crux. Next session might be on lead.
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Dim 5 Nov. 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.13c/d PG - R Difficile |
★★★ Air China
![]() | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Another working session. This time in the morning, placing gear and trailing a rope. One fall at the crux. Not warmed up.
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5.11+ |
★★★ Back to the Primitive
![]()
1
5.8
20m
2
5.11+
20m
3
5.10
18m
4
5.10+
30m
5
5.11-
32m
6
5.9
10m
7
5.10+
28m
8
5.9
25m
| 180m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Linked p2&3 and 6&7. An awesome outing but the descent down the Spearhead gully was a serious adventure.
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Sam 4 Nov. 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 松顶拱壁区 Pinecrest Buttress | ||||||
5.10+ |
★★★ Scarface 2
![]() | 25m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Repeat for toprope
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Sam 4 Nov. 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.12b |
★★★ Over the Rainbow
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Got inverted well and was making progress but could not get past a cam and then slipped out of a no hands rest upside down 🙃. The hand crack at the end is much harder than I expected as well
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5.10+ |
★★ Dirt Devil
![]() | 15m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Seriously fun with a solid 8m of butterfly stacks and knee locks
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Jeu 2 Nov. 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.13 ~5.12+ |
★★ The Unimaginable Corner
![]() | 15m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Not for me but thought I'd check ot out.
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Jeu 2 Nov. 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 松顶拱壁区 Pinecrest Buttress | ||||||
5.8 |
★★ Welcome to Liming
![]() | 12m | ★ Bon | |||
Squeeze chimney fun!
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5.9 |
★★★ The Great Owl
![]() | 28m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Fantastic and interesting jamming, so good.
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Jeu 2 Nov. 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.12 R |
★ Cracker
![]() | 12m | ★ Bon | |||
Insanely hard and gear is terrible, needs a good clean.
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5.9 |
★★ Staircase of the Elves
![]() | 10m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Awesome but short
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5.12b |
★★★ The Funky Dan
![]() | 32m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Fell again at the crux. Felt really good up to there but never found good beta for one foot move. Then went to the top
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5.10a |
★★ Sandworm
![]() | 30m | ★★ Excellent | |||
5.13c/d PG - R Difficile |
★★★ Air China
![]() | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Worked out gear and it's pretty bomber but scary.
Next session I got two low points. One from the start of the crux and then straight after, another from the rest before the hard climbing. Getting so psyched
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Dim 29 Oct. 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 松顶拱壁区 Pinecrest Buttress | ||||||
5.12a |
★★ The Reckoning-half 终审判决第一段
![]() | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Wish the top crack was longer
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5.10+ ~5.11- |
★★ Boy with a Coin
![]() | 25m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Great climbing. Got to do some long sections of butterfly stacks!
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Dim 29 Oct. 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.12b |
★★★ The Funky Dan
![]() | 32m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Had a very good onsight attempt. Came close but didn't think funky enough with my beta. Might try again when I recover from this attempt
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5.10a |
★★ Sandworm
![]() | 30m | ★★ Excellent | |||
5.11 R ~5.11+ |
★★★ Saxion Edge
![]() | 30m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Serious business. 4 Chech style ring bolts in 25m. Some big runout on insecure moves with a hint of moss and grime. Unfortunately the logbook at the summit was installed upside down by the last climber and filled with water. I brought the case and book back down to try and dry it out.
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5.13c/d PG - R Difficile |
★★★ Air China
![]() | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Climbed in two overlapping sections. One through the crux and past the bolt, and then from the bolt to the top twice. Piecing it together. Will start to play with some gear next
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Ven 27 Oct. 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.13c/d PG - R Difficile |
★★★ Air China
![]() | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Worked out all the beta but about 4 sections between hangs
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Mar 24 Oct. 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
黑怕哈米 Heibahami | ||||||
5.11a |
★★ Smiley Glad Hands with Hidden Agendas
![]() | 30m, 2 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Mar 24 Oct. 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
晚餐岩 Dinner Wall 白垩纪区 Cretaceous Area | ||||||
5.11+ |
★★★ The Firewall
![]()
2
5.11+
33m
grimpé en tête par
Patrick Munnings
Comfortably the single best pitch of crack climbing I've ever done. Slightly overhanging the whole way, with all sizes from fingers to fists. But the sections of marathon #2 and #3 were so epic! Hopefully I can come back and play on the top pitch too. | 53m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
5.10a |
★★★ Soul’s Awakening
![]()
1
5.9
28m
Awesome! Such quality crack climbing and the bolts are well considered also.
2
5.10a
8m
8 bolts in 8m skipped 6 of them | 36m | ★★★ Classique | |||
5.10+ |
★★ The Forgotten Line
![]() | 30m | ★★ Excellent | |||
A bit dirty and nerve racking pulling on some blocks. Really fun with some solid overhanging fist jamming
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Dim 22 Oct. 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
晚餐岩 Dinner Wall 洞区 Cave Area | ||||||
5.10c |
★★ The Warm up
![]() | 12m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Pretty hard for the grade I think
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5.12c |
★★★ Japanese Cowboy
![]() | 30m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Whipped while my head was pressed against the anchor. Could not find a clipping stance even after another 5 tries. Such a grovelly and unpleasant finish to a mega classic pitch of beautiful steep jamming
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5.12c/d Difficile |
★★★ Curse of the Rainshed
![]() | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Classique | |||
No cigar today as well but got the beta sorted. One fall on the slippery no hands traverse
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5.11d |
★★★ Equator
![]() | 63m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Super climbing. Some scary moments on the arete feel like you could damage your rope if you fall. Varied and hard climbing the whole way
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5.12c/d Difficile |
★★★ Curse of the Rainshed
![]() | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Amazing! An absolute antistyle for me but incredibly fun movement.
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Jeu 19 Oct. 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.12a/b |
★★ Morass and The Balance of Power Extension
![]() | 35m, 4 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Could not be more different to the first half of the route, delicate, powerful and flexible climbing on mostly imaginary footholds.
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5.10c |
★★ Morass
![]() | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Varied and interesting
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5.11b |
★★★ Clam Digger
![]() | 25m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Unreal. Strange how doing the same move over and over again for 25m can be so much fun. An absolute thrashing for my right leg and some serious fatigue but stoked to have done it! Probably never again
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5.13c/d PG - R Difficile |
★★★ Air China
![]() | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Amazing hard arete climbing. Will be spicy but safe and I am psyched to give this a few sessions. did all the moves but had some rope help on two of them.
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Mer 18 Oct. 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 原始北区 Primitive Area North | ||||||
5.11- |
★★ The Raven (full)
![]() | 25m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Some really bizarre moves. Actually quite weird the whole way. Harder than it looks but really cool
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Mer 18 Oct. 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 松顶拱壁区 Pinecrest Buttress | ||||||
5.12a |
★★ The Reckoning-half 终审判决第一段
![]() | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Fell after the crux rushing an off balance move. Easy steep perfect finger crack to the top from there
|
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5.10+ |
★★★ Scarface 2
![]() | 25m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Absolutely classic. Beautiful line, cool position and perfect climbing
|
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Mer 18 Oct. 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.10+ Difficile |
★★ Faraway Corner
![]() | 15m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Unreal rock and line. Gets easier as you go. So good
|
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Mer 18 Oct. 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
守护者山谷 The Guardian Valley 死亡天文台 Die Sternwarte | ||||||
5.10+ Difficile |
★★ The Squall
![]() | 25m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Possibly my hardest fight for an onsight to date (which isn't filling me with confidence for the rest of our time here). The route was also dirty as it probably hasn't been climbed in many years and has seen some heavy rain. Slid back down the offwidth section multiple times before somehow making it through. then what should have been an easy hand and fist crack to the anchor was an absolute suffer fest where I almost hyperventilated and fainted. I couldn't remember what gear I had placed or how far it was below me. Wanted to give up and sit the whole time but somehow didn't. I could not climb again for the rest of the day. hopefully more of this to come!
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5.10- ~5.10 |
★★★ Captain Spaceman Spiff
![]() | 30m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Was dirty, meaning I had to squeeze extra hard on the long sections of .75 and 1. Thumb got a serious workout, and I could have used another .75 because I had about a 6m runout above the half way ledge. Top section was really fun. Felt stiff for a large hand climber.
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Dim 1 Oct. 2023 - 六盘水 Liupanshui | ||||||
双洞村 | ||||||
5.12a R |
★★★ 大疣蛛科
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classique | |||
I had such a great time with this route. Spent 2 rest days cleaning and working out the logistics for this ascent. A deep water solo above a small pool, continuing into a spicy long steep tufa maze and finally the huge tree anchor at the finish ledge. The route was begging to be climbed but demanded lots of effort be put into making it happen. Thanks so much to Hannah for suffering through the belay process, it was probably as scary as the climb itself. What a memorable experience to FA this route!
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Mar 19 Sept 2023 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
瑞士墙-酒瓶山地区 Corridor Entrance 中指峰 Middle Finger | ||||||
5.10d Difficile |
★★★ Pluto
![]()
1
5.10d
45m
2
5.10d
45m
| 90m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Trad Climbing! In Yangshuo! This route has obviously not been climbed in many years, however is very good quality. Two consistently difficult, interesting, varied, intimidating and looong pitches. Absolutely worth doing, but I also think I do't want to do much more trad climbing here hahaha. The route would be better with some vegetation clearing and replacement of tat on the anchors.
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Affichant les 81 ascensions total.