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Voies dans East (Right) Side

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Affichant les 56 voies total.

Cotation Voie Style d'escalade Popularité
project Project 1
Sportive
23 Mosh

FA: S.Squires, 1986

Sportive 10m
23 Wargasm

Start as for Mosh and traverse left along the break. A rack of cams is handy.

FA: S.Squires & J.Ryan, 1997

Trad 15m
project Project 2
Non-défini
16 Two Carrots Purple

Start: 1m left of the arete.

Single SS glue-in carrot at the top, and a minor rooflet and arete, which the other three carrot climbs on this wall do not.

Trad mixte 10m, 2
14 Two Carrots Red

Start: 2m left of previous climb.

FA: 2000

Trad mixte 10m, 2
15 Two Carrots Orange

Start: 2m left of previous climb.

Trad mixte 10m, 2
15 Two Carrots Yellow

Start: 2m left of previous climb.

FA: 2000

Trad mixte 10m, 2
18 Tall Dwarfs

Start: This and the following 2 routes are on the uninspiring wall with the overhanging dinner plates.

Up finger crack then over roof with rings.

FA: S.Squires, 1996

Trad mixte 10m, 2
18 Terror Couple Kill Colonel

Up slab to roof with a wire placement between the first and second bolts. Finish at DBB

FA: S.Squires & D.Geraghty, 1996

Trad mixte 10m, 6
18 Deathburger Highway

Start at large stringybark. Up past carrot and large bird's nest in alcove past overhang with broken holds to thin huge rings.

FA: S.Squires & D.Geraghty, 1996

Trad mixte 10m, 3
20 Satanic Nuns

Start: Small wall facing the main wall.

FA: D.Geraghty & S.Squires, 1996

Sportive 15m
15 Cosmic Gall

Start: The dirty corner/ramp to the left of SN. Carrot at overhung crux.

FA: S.Squires, 1996

Trad mixte 15m, 1
24 Libby the Lick

Dec 2012 update: ledge between bolt 1 and 2 has disintergrated. Now dirty and needs attention before its climbable again.

Awesome.

Start: The 1st route on the main wall.

FA: S.Squires, 1997

Sportive 15m
23 Mr Stagger Lee

FA: S.Squires & P.Lawlor, 1997

Sportive 15m
22 Moan Groan Dial Tone

Start: On the slab 4m left of 'Libby the Lick'. Up the water scoop.

FA: P.Lawlor & M.Spinaze, 1996

Sportive 15m
19 Exploding Budgies

Start: As for MGDT, then traverse up and left to the far left anchors crossing SOTC.

FA: S.Squires & M.Spinaze, 1996

Sportive 15m
19 Silence of the Cams

Start: 3m left of MGDT. Head straight up to anchors.

FA: S.Squires & D.Geraghty, 1996

Sportive 15m, 5
19 th(rush)

Start: Between The Reprieve and SOTC.

Low angled corner crack to ledge below overhanging wide section and narrow topout. Medium gear and extend belay from tree 5m back to ledge on left to avoid rope jamming in notch.

No doubt climbed before, FA please name and claim.

Trad 17m
19 The Reprieve

Arete about 5m left of SOTC. Crappy old bolts have now been replaced.

FA: S.Squires, 1996

Sportive 15m, 5
6 It's Crap Ray No.1

Start: 1m right of arete.

3m steps to carrot then a few chances for nuts in notches, slings, and 2 cams to intact tree belay.

FFA: S Squires, 1996

Trad mixte 10m, 1
13 Not So Crap

Start: 3m left of "It's Crap Ray No.1" at smaller tree. 3m to rusty carrot then possible nuts in notches and slings to ledge, stainless carrot 2m up (crux) then another nut/sling to top and single galvanised glue-in carrot anchor.

[Renamed: the only thing worse than Crap is Unknown - Ed.]

Trad mixte 10m, 2
6 It's Crap Ray No.2

Start: At flake/corner.

Corner with wires to ledge with rusty carrot hidden behind jug next to bomber sling (former belay?), then a few notches to the top and carrot anchor.

FFA: S. Squires, 1996

Trad mixte 10m, 1
13 Ray's Toupee

Start: At left end of wall.

Low angle juggy grey slab with two galvanised carrot anchors hidden among loose burnt scree and debris below a sloping top.

FFA: S. Squires, 1996

Moulinette 10m
19 Wowza

Up flake the left and through rooflet to crack

FA: C George, 2006

Trad 20m
21 Brooklyn

FFA: M. Pricher, 1999

Sportive 12m
18 Manhattan

FFA: M. Pricher, 1999

Sportive 12m
15 Karmic Block

FFA: S. Squires & D. Geraghy, 1996

Trad 12m
8 New Rose (in Town)

FFA: S. Squires, 1999

Trad 10m
Single Carrot Arete

Runout is an understatement. Single carrot ~5m up.

Trad mixte 1
17 Islamic Cowgirls Cry "Jeehad!"

The right hand side of the slabby face about 50m left of previous route. Dangerously high first bolt about 5m up.

FFA: D. Geraghy & S. Squires, 1996

Sportive 10m, 3
20 Jewish Cowboys Yell "(Netan) Yahoo"

Start just left of ICCJ.

Has no anchor. So either carefully traverse to the ICCJ anchor or climb back down.

FFA: S. Squires & D. Geraghy, 1996

Sportive 10m, 3
17 Morris Chopsuey

FFA: S. Squires & D. Hartley, 1996

Trad 15m
23 Zadok the Priest
Sportive 15m
20 Metamorphosis
Sportive 15m
21 Mr Chippy
Sportive 12m
17 Cranky Monkey

FA: John Croker & Mike Patterson, 2003

Non-défini 15m
14 Lilly the Pink

FA: Mike Patterson & John Croker, 2003

Non-défini 12m
15 Floyd the Barber
Non-défini 15m
14 Patterson's Pinnacle

FA: Mike Patterson & John Croker, 2003

Non-défini 9m
21 The Raconteur
Sportive 15m
15 The Worl According to RURP
Trad 15m
21 Welsh Catharsis
Non-défini 40m
20 Tombei the Mist
Non-défini 20m
project Project 3
Non-défini
18 Tofu & Vegies

Done ground up / onsite. Follow the seams and cracks heading generally straight up. Walk off and lower from tree.

Start: 2 meters left of Unknown 3.

FA: Cameron Breeze, 2009

Trad 10m
Upper Tier
19 Bela Lugosi

The line of rings and a thread just left of the corner up to DRBB lower-off.

The bolts are in a straight line but the climb wanders. Start up the corner, traverse to clip the 1st bolt then return 2m right and up to cave, traverse horizontally past 2nd bolt and up 2m left of 3rd bolt to thread, can supplement with cams. Clip 4th bolt and easier ground left to large ledge. Runout unnerving sandy rounded edges up to lower-offs,.

FA: J Allwood & C Allwood, 1999

Trad mixte 25m, 4
19 The Big Corner

Name says it all. You can traverse to 'Bela Lugosi' anchors to get off.

FA: J Smoothy, 1980

Trad 25m
23 Tower of Song

Single ring lower-off!

Start: Start 2m left of 'Nudity'.

FA: P Lawler & P Beggs, 2000

Sportive 30m
19 Nudity

Good climb. Undercut start at large gum tree. 7 ring bolts up to DRBB lower-offs. Take 2 yellow (BD #2) cams to protect the 4-5m runout either side of the last bolt, also take 3 extra quickdraws to extend the 2 cams and 1 bolt under a lip. A 50m rope is sufficient for lowering with ~4m spare.

FA: S Squires & D Geraghty, 1997

Sportive 25m, 7
21 Route Rustler

The obvious undercut crack. Head for a fixed hanger on a sharp nose then left and finish up 'Nudity'.

FA: J Clark, 1998

Trad mixte 15m, 3
20 Batting Coluzzi

When you scramble up from the lower cliffline you arrive under a nice orange and grey wall. Up the rounded undercut arete at the right end of this wall, heading right. Watch out for loose block.

FA: J Allwood & P Beggs, 2000

Sportive 12m
18 AID:A1 Children's Hour
Artif 15m
19 Kamikazee Jumbos

20m right of Route Rustler is a short dog leg crack, that is trickier than it appears.

FA: Stu Dobbie, 2005

Trad 15m
25 (Unknown High Arete)

50m L of the Tower of Song wall is a high, hanging arete. This route traverses R out the lip of the roof towards the arete then up to DRBB. One carrot and two U-bolts.

FA: Presumably Saul Squires?

Sportive 20m, 3
(Unknown Orange Wall FHs)

About 5m left of previous route is an orange wall with messy glue-in FHs leading to an upper bulge, complete with tatty tape thread.

Sportive 20m

Affichant les 56 voies total.

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