Ascensions dans Sail Away Wall comme Red point

Believe the hype. Possibly best 24 ever? Though I could see how it would be physically impossible for someone with less than my 170cm span.

This is all-time. Humbling, exhilarating and everything in between

Very cool boulder problem at the top. Psyched to get this second go

fun route, but not as good as wipeout or sailaway

all 3 sections of this route are great, the crux isnt too bad if youre over 6 foot.

If this was the only route ever allowed to be climbed in the world, id still be a climber.

fingers are the wrong size for the lock but the undercling is fine, such a good route with some intersting sequences, definetly messed up my practiced beta for the slab and managed to just squeek it in with fingers slipping and toes rolling off! Would recommend a stiffer shoe. Glad to get this one done after trying it about 4 years ago and never returning

Felt really solid this time. One lap to work beta, then smashed it. Wonderful route.

A few years since my first redpoint of this. It gets my vote for best 25 in the mountains.

It's done! Fell off the flake above the crux again first attempt, then tied in an hour later still feeling pumped but somehow feeling fresher the higher I got. Battling the mounting pressure of leaving it behind for a year, very happy I could turn the focus away from the outcome and point it towards the execution of each move one by one. Definitely in the top 2 best performances I've ever done, maybe the best but maybe I'm just psyched.

31 shots over 11 sessions, longest project to date. Would've been longer without the big ol siege with Jayden and Dave. Stoked

Great climb. Feels 24 when you know the moves hard onsight!

After a windy lap up DRP, decided it was about time to revisit the dream rig. Felt solid all the way. How good

I can echo a lot of Jayden's sentiments on this one. Really enjoyed sieging this with Matt and Jayden too, it made a big difference to the psych and experience.

I tried 3 different betas for the crux -

1. the standard drive by

2. left hip to the wall, left hand bump to jug, right heel hook on the crimp next to the right hand, then cross over match on the jug

3. using the slightly higher wide left foot, get a knee scum under the rooflet and bump left hand to the jug

I think they're all about as difficult as each other off rope, but the knee scum turns the crux from an arms heavy move to more of a technical move to keep the toe and knee set, which to me was the more doable option on link.

9.12.23 - It's such a strange feeling, you put so much energy into climbing a route and then one day it just all clicks and you find yourself holding that hold that had thwarted you for so many days.

After falling off the same move from the ground for maybe 8 sessions I expected to feel frustrated with myself, and this route. That didn't play out, how it had played out so many times years ago, when my outlook on climbing was so outcome oriented.

With this route, I kept showing up to this climb with a wry smile, ducking the bar and dancing along the ledge, dumping my bag and gazing at the beautiful orange wall of rock with a sense of awe. This routine would continue many times - tie in, flow, sit, visualise, breath deep, flow, relax, commit, execute and fall with my hands sliding off the last hold of the crux. During the ample air time, I couldn't help but unleash an uncontrollable audible release of energy, all the way down like an elevator in free fall. Pulling up was exhausting but I couldn't help looking forward to the next time I could test myself, to feel that same sensation when you climb well.

I really believe the feeling you get from climbing a route is proportional to the challenge, the unsuccessful red points and the mindset you adopt during that time. I like to think of it as "filling the cup", which means I enjoyed a big ol cup of satisfaction when I was able to climb this route. Ultimately, "nobody cares" so just enjoy each time you get to try something hard. Just keep showing up. Thanks Matt and Dave for the continued psych and patient belays!

Roughly 16 sessions and maybe 45 tie-ins.

A pleasure!

EOD lap

Mega cool moves on this one. Thoroughly enjoying myself here. Another sick crew playing out in the sun. Thanks Bob Brown for the catch!

#2nd go, couldn’t keep the jug due to a poorly placed right foot.

Pretty stoked to finally send this 4 years after first trying it, with many tries in varying connies since. Longest term proj by far! Thanks to Renée for leaving the Shipley sun bath to give me a catch on it 🙏🏼🤩

My best send! This climb is absolutely mind blowing!! Mega adventure! Beautiful location, nice wall, variety of different holds, positions and style. Very pumpy and long with a top out on slopers. MUST WHIP 💯!!! MUST TRY 💯!!! I had soooo much fun trying it. It took me a while to send it but I was never tired of trying it. La Niña was a big part of the send delay. Water was leaking through the rock for a year on the first crux and the top was wet too.

What comes to the grade, it is definitely harder and pumpyer than any other 33's you can find, definitely deserves to be upgraded to 34. Definitely deserves more attention!!