Voies dans Main Crags

A companion route to Gargoyle. As per the way Fairy Floss was first climbed but instead of stepping left into the crack continue up the arête.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/willyabrup-4/

Climb up the middle of the face of the block facing Norh. Little bit challenging at the start but rewards you with a ledge before challenging you again.

Start 2 meters to the left of Brepus and straight up the face.

Climb follows crack with some old school jamming required for the vertically challenged.

Start at the bottom of the right trending ramp before heading up the main crack and then traverse back left along the hand crack.

Go up thin seams left of Inner Space. Avoid the desire to step left.

Directly up the thin crack below the Inner Space flake, then traversing left at the second large horizontal break and directly up the larger flake to the left. Make sure to extend your gear either end of the traverse or the rope drag will conspire against you and your delicate slopey top-out.

Tough move to start below then straight up with crux in the middle (otherwise a 17 if you use the flake on the left). Trad anchor possible if you want to lower off but save yourself the hassle and just walk down (2 min).

Tough first move and committing last move make this a great mental challenge. If you're crimping, careful of the wind on top...

Follow the twin cracks

Follow ring bolts up arete

3 ring bolts with optional (recommended) medium cam to protect top section

Thin face climb with a high first clip and a long runout between the first and second bolts. Some trad pro needed after second bolt.

Follow crack line on right side of wall, past the bolts to break. Up delicately to top out.

Reach large jugs and either statically or dynamically reach crack system. Take a bolt plate to protect the top section.

A sneaky and completely independent line between Slapping the Fat and Gutted on the Fat Chance Wall. Hard bouldery moves off the deck, up the front of the large blocks that form the corner of Gutted. From the ledge straight up and over the overlaps, avoiding the temptation to drift right or left onto the easier moves of Slapping the Fat or Gutted.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/wilyabrup-main-area/

Same route as one for the road. But when you get to the overhang escape off to the right to the ledge.

Start from the platform and climb up the major crag of the wall. The crux is at the roof with good gear and great holds. Build the anchor over the big boulder with enough rope or some cams, nuts or hexes under the two boulders on top with you sitting snug between them.

Climb the line of bolts left of One for the Road.

Start as for Thunder Thighs / Sinuosity for 5m. Then traverse left 5m in large horizontal break, clipping second bolt of Dolphin Smiles. Finish up last 3 bolts of Fishing with Dynamite.

Start 2m right of Dolphin Smiles, up and right using the corner system. From the shelf and 2m left of Sinuosity head straight up the wall using flakes and then further up horizontal pocket, joining Sinuosity to finish (Krish Seewraj, Andrew Malone 27/03/11).

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-climb-at-willyabrup/

After the 3rd bolt, head right towards the darker rock and crack.

Start 2m L of Dolphin Smiles and follow 6 RBs to the top. Slightly overhanging, pumpy and interesting all the way. A #0.5 Camalot is optional between first and second bolt with the other option being a guaranteed ground fall. Be warned, this in not a sports route. Easy to mistake for Golden Buttress if using old guidebook.

Discussion around bolting and local ethics: https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-climb-at-willyabrup/

Direct version goes straight up below first bolt. Medium nuts and cams required for protection.

Bouldery start from the roof to join Glory then continue up arete.

See SW Rock (2016)

Up the wall left of Malaria (as for Dunlop Special Alternate Start in SW Guide), trend right to the middle of the wall and then up the bulging headwall on pockets (large cams needed).

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/possible-new-routes-at-willys/

Start as for Hoopsnake, trend up and right passing a large flake until forced to join the arête.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/possible-new-routes-at-willys/

Start from gully right of Stainless Steel and step left to a bolt. Continue up headwall past a second bolt.

Start as Stainless Steel, but head right past bolt and up right side of ramp.

Follow right trending crack with bomber gear placements to below first bolt. Delicate face climbing past three carrot bolts (need hangers - bolt heads are just a fraction larger than usual so try harder before giving up) before arriving at the roof. Follow crack up roof to finishing jugs. Important to place more pro than usual early on (before 1st bolt) because the distance to the ground reduces as you climb right trending crack before heading up.

Start as Heavy Metal, but at crux, trend right to enter sustained crux section and big run out towards top.

Start in crack as for Stainless Steel. Place cam and move directly up to FH. Crux is reaching 4th FH. Exit with big moves over roof and top out.

Start as Sirius, but when Ulster Madness is reached on large ledge, head right up ramps to horizontal break. Has almost no protection.

P1: Climb diagonal crack and horizontal break to the large ledge. Belay in corner. P2: Follow corner up into easy arête.

The line left of Simply Suicide with a mix of ring bolts and fixed hangers. Take some gear for the horizontal breaks in the middle and near the top.

P1: Right of Delving Devoids is a thin seam with a distinctive bolt (needs replacing). Go straight up to ledge. P2: Continue straight up wall above

Entails some sinister moves P1 Stick clip bolt on lip of overhang and launch leftwards to a small corner and continue up to first belay of Sirius. P2: Continue as for Sirius, up easy arête.

Alternate finish for Delving Devoids. Continue straight up wall from belay with marginal protection.

Up corner roof section. Really hard start leads to enjoyable climbing up corner. Can be done in two pitches to minimise rope drag. Grade has gone up to 21 after a hold broke.

Start the climb the same as for Mobjob, and once through the first roof traverse diagonally left and upward staying to the left of both ring bolts. Pull through the small roof on the arete 5 metres to the left of blowjob to top out. The climb is mixed with two bolts and the rest natural pro.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/willyabrup-new-route/

"Fantastic climbing. A cairn can be used to reach first holds, then up corner through overhangs and roofs to the top."

Ends up following the same top half as "Hand Job" however traversing left below the 2nd roof under the bolt.

The chimney/crack corner that turns into a pleasant face climb up the right wall. Start by following the crack that takes big gear and has a terrible lumpy and soft limestone covering (you can use smaller gear in places, just look hard and be creative). Use the right face to finish (avoiding the staircase gully to the left).