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Ascensions dans Scenic Rim comme croix de types variés par Douglas Hockly

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Affichage de 1 - 100 sur 155 ascensions.

Cotation Voie Style d'escalade Qualité
Lun 15 Août 2016 - Frog Buttress
East of the access track
18 Dynamite Trad 18m Excellent
The climbing is very nice, but there is very little gear, and the rock is not great where the gear is. A shame it's not bolted as it would be enjoyed by many.. if it was 27 it'd be bolted, but it's not cause it's 17.

 
18 Last Picture Show Trad 22m Dans la moyenne
The actual corner I found quite interesting and not too hard as I could bridge to the rib on the right wall, but the start (Condor) is not that great and Wendy traversed off to the chains above Mechanical Prune as there was a death block on the ledge...

 
16 Moonlighter Trad 15m
22 Slippin' Away Trad 13m Bon
The corner is good - and desperate - but very short.

 
23 Cracks in the Pavement Trad 25m Bon
I really enjoyed this. Pretty tenuous in places. May be a safe lead these days with lots of micro cams, though I think you'd be on RPs at the start.

 
17 King Shits and Dead Shits Trad 20m Dans la moyenne
Decent alt start to LLL

 
Lun 15 Août 2016 - Frog Buttress
West of the access track
16 Illusion / Bad Blues Link Up Trad 22m Bon
18 Iron Mandible Trad 24m Excellent
Take care and small wires on the start

 
17 Neon Philharmonic Trad 35m Dans la moyenne
God this is desperate.

 
21 The Anti-From Trad 17m Bon
24 Serenade for Strings Trad 35m Dans la moyenne
19 Drop Out Trad 24m Bon
Good but has a substantial loose bit

 
16 Drop-out Direct Finish Trad 7m Bon
15 Bad Company Trad 20m Dans la moyenne
Insecure feeling, not that fun

 
19 Jumbo Services Mrs Mills and the Electric Yellow Bums Trad 20m Pas la peine
17 16 Micron Trad 20m Bon
18 17 Elastic RURP Trad 20m Excellent
20 Catharsis Trad 20m Bon
This is better than it looks! The top offwith is great, I used stacked handjams which worked well.

 
17 Pixel Princess Trad 15m Dans la moyenne
Better than it looks, but has some loose blocks to be careful of up high. Also more like 17 off the ground than 15

 
20 Footloose and Falling Free Trad 11m Excellent
I really like this one. Surprisingly takes a blue cam 3 camalot at the top.

 
19 Magical Mystery Tour Trad 34m Bon
Take some small wires

 
21 Half-dazed and Patched Pants Trad 18m Dans la moyenne
I remember having a wobbler above the bolt on this!

 
22 20 The Great Big Bright Green Pleasure Machine Trad 33m Bon
The start detracts, and the rest is quite hard, feels as hard as other 22s

 
19 Bay Play Trad 10m Bon
Hard and the gear strenuous to place. Good climbing but some loose bits.

 
21 20 The One That Got Away Trad 35m Classique
Love this one.

 
23 23 X Ockerphillia - avec Robbie McKillop Trad 23m Excellent
Rapped down and looked at the gear first. IIRC there's nothing to the crux and not much after it but I got about 4 bits on the crux that I thought would hold a slump.

 
23 Chemical Adrenalin Trad mixte 24m, 4 Excellent
Found this hard, maybe 24?

 
21 Conquistador Trad 45m Super classique
21 Oppenheimer's Monster Trad mixte 25m, 2 Dans la moyenne
It's been a long time but I remember being a bit put off by the rock quality, and hence the gear that's in it.

 
20 Devils Dihedral Trad 45m Super classique
My fave at Frog

 
15 Devil's Wart Trad 27m Excellent
Hollow corner at the top is a bit offputting

 
23 Baby Staysharp Sportive 7m, 2 Bon
My first 23 flash

 
18 Hello Sailor Trad 20m Bon
This is surprisingly good. No real offwidthing required.

 
17 Genghis Khan Trad 20m Pas la peine
I only just got up this! I did it by chimneying which was exhausting, maybe there is a better way. (Wendy did it much better) There really is no gear till half height, and some poor rock, and it's filthy... get on it.

 
23 Go-between Trad 18m Bon
I thought this was really nice, and I think the gear would be better these days with micro cams. Could be 22.

 
19 Hollywood Rattlesnake Trad 18m Bon
A bit graunchy but good.

 
22 Out on a Limb Trad 18m Bon
The crux placements have shattered which is not that confidence inspiring. You can get questionable cams now. Delicate climbing on your feet.

 
22 21 Run With the Pack Trad 20m Bon
More like a toprope. I went up Bad Company to the first good bit of gear, which is 2/3 of the way up the route. I would not trust the gear in the initial corner at all. Much scarier than Out On A Limb or The Go-Between. Climbing is ok, top crack is nice. I think 22.

 
23 The Guns of Navaronne Trad 30m Bon
Good but the hard bit is short if you start up Odin like we did.

 
22 Decade Trad 30m Dans la moyenne
A good line but the climbing is easier to the left and then the right so it ended up feeling a bit contrived to me.

 
17 If Trad 30m Pas la peine
Not that great, and neither is the gear when it matters

 
21 20 Short Order Trad 30m Classique
I find this to be solid 21. Great climbing, though feels insecure all the way. Every time I do it I remember that Malcolm soloed it. Gawd.

 
17 Smoked Banana Trad 40m Bon
13 12 Witches Cauldron Pitch 1 Trad 12m Pas la peine
Quite horrible, consists of stacked blocks which contain the gear...

 
18 Midnight Express - avec Wendy Eden Trad 23m Dans la moyenne
Not too hard, and not as bad as it looks. Some loose rock but no real offwidthing, you can head onto the R wall at the top

 
17 Psychedelic Apricot Pitch Two - avec Wendy Eden Trad 25m Dans la moyenne
This seemed quite easy for 19... on second. There is a fair bit of loose rock but not awful. Climbing is ok.

 
14 Faki Trad 13m Bon
22 Satsang Trad mixte 5m, 1 Dans la moyenne
22 Yankee Go Home Trad 26m Excellent
18 Warlock Trad 26m Dans la moyenne
23 Day of the Jackal Trad 28m Excellent
I had a great experience on this.. a bit scared, at my limit, but got up it. I thought it was great but YMMV

 
20 19 Thor Trad 30m Pas la peine
I thought this was horrible. The first half is ok but the top is just a jigsaw of loose blocks.

 
20 Odin Trad 30m Dans la moyenne
I remember hating this before I could jam!

 
Ven 29 Juil 2016 - Frog Buttress
East of the access track
20 Famous Cosmetics Trad 40m Bon
I found the crux really desperate. The rest is good but shame about the ledges

 
17 Phatang Trad 40m Pas la peine
Not great. Lots of ledges to hit and not the best rock

 
24 Impulse Trad 18m Classique
My first 24 flash, in about 89

 
17 Liquid Laughter Layback Trad 38m Bon
I remember the V groove being desperate from 88... did it again last year and it was still desperate!

 
18 Borderline 29 Trad 15m Bon
Good for a few moves but worryingly hollow

 
21 22 Plummeting Pineapple (Plummeting Pinapple) Trad 35m Dans la moyenne
Good for a bit at the start then a bit of a ramble. There are better routes.

 
21 Bongos and Beached Whales Trad 10m Bon
Fun for a few moves

 
23 Ground to a Halt Trad 14m Dans la moyenne
One #3RP if I remember right

 
21 20 Egotistical Pineapple (Egotistical Pinapple) Trad 14m Excellent
Great route, sustained and interesting, definitely 21 for me.

 
23 The Guilt By Association Years Sportive 10m Pas la peine
There are many, many better routes than this here

 
11 Parson's Pleasure Trad 10m Bon
Actually ok

 
17 16 Forked Tongue Trad 15m Dans la moyenne
Remember it being hard for the grade

 
20 19 Off the Wall Trad 13m Bon
Interesting climbing, shame about the ledge

 
19 Southern Comfort Trad 15m Excellent
Really great, spoilt a bit by the loose ramble to a tree

 
17 16 Sabrasucker Trad 25m Bon
Pretty tough but gear is ok

 
Dim 17 Juil 2016 - Frog Buttress
East of the access track
14 Grandma's Tonic Trad 18m Pourrie
omg. Thought I'd do this to get to Theory ledge. There's a groove that's totally composed of loose blocks. Shockingly awful, and dirty and dangerous and shit climbing - it's got it all...

 
24 Keep Left Trad 25m Excellent
I really liked this! Super interesting climbing with flared jams, shallow bridging, face climbing and a layback section to finish. Sustained and technical. Would be hard to place gear on lead. The undercling is fragile, don't break it or it'll get a lot harder! Second shot tr.

 
25 Carrion Comfort Trad 25m Excellent
I thought this was good but a little disappointing as if you're tall (and remotely flexible) you can bridge to LLL.

 
19 Inquisition Trad 27m Excellent
Take big cams but no actual offwidthing

 
22 Thrutching is the Reward of Thrutching Trad 12m Bon
Think of this in the same vein as "11a offwidth". An amazing (though very short) corner with crap holds at the back and desperate insecure bridge-thrutching and squeak-panting. 2 falls until I realised I was facing the wrong way.

 
20 Cannabis Crack - avec Wendy Eden Trad 40m Bon
A good route with bad climbing? The start is great, and the rock is good the whole way, but the top is a really long increasingly desperate thrutch. Good to have done it once.

 
16 17 Blood, Sweat and Tears Trad 40m Excellent
Great except for the tight awkward section in the middle. Well protected, actually takes a lot of midsize cams

 
25 Future Tense Trad 40m Excellent
Lovely climbing on the top wall, if you start up BST this feels like 24/5. I did TR the original start, which is quite hard but sadly not that great and has some dodgy rock.

 
22 Snipe Trad mixte 23m, 2
Don't remember anything!

 
20 Pollux Trad 23m Bon
A really good route with a short section of proper offwidthing. I chicken winged and found it totally desperate but I imagine that there is better technique one could apply.

 
17 16 Castor Trad 22m Excellent
This is a great route! Good rock and no actual offwidthing despite appearances. More like 17 though.

 
18 Sacrilege Crack Trad 25m Bon
I found this really hard at the top but I don't feel like I have good offwidth technique. Quite a good route apart from some scary loose bits.

 
18 Resurrection Corner Trad 25m Dans la moyenne
All I remember is really sore feet. Not really a fan of this one.

 
18 Fat Mattress Trad 30m Bon
Interesting all the way. A bit broken by ledges but well worthwhile. The start is tricky and hard to protect - you can get a #6 Camalot in the flare to back up the other pieces if you have one.

 
18 Dave Mank's Electric Gorilla Trad 20m Bon
22 Dave Mank's Electric Gorilla Direct Start Trad 10m Bon
17 Dave Mank's Electric Gorilla Direct Finish Trad 6m
20 Erg Trad 25m Bon
Gets quite wide in the middle. The finish, though it looks ugly, is actually OK

 
25 Hard Nose Trad 25m
26 Hard Nose DS Trad 25m Classique
Fantastic route. Second or third shot.

 
22 Black Light Trad 25m Excellent
I find this incredibly hard and insecure due to a) poor crack technique and b) my hands don't go into the crack so it's all marginal thin hands.

 
18 Blood of the Christ Trad 25m Dans la moyenne
Not as awful as it looks, but the top has some big loose blocks that guarantee it's future unpopularity.

 
22 Child in Time Trad 25m Classique
I find this desperate in the top half where its very thin hands for me. Actually easier without tape gloves as I can get more of my hand in!

 
21 A Hundred and One - avec Wendy Eden Trad 12m Dans la moyenne
24 Inquisition in the Rye - avec Wendy Eden Trad 27m Excellent
This really is great. The first bit of Inquisition is excellent, clean, interesting climbing. The top half of Catcher in the Rye is wonderful, jams and locks and quite sustained on excellent rock. It's a little dirty as nobody ever does it. Might be 24, certainly had Wendy and I pulling out all stops to get up it without coming off despite having TR'd it a few days ago.

 
Mar 5 Juil 2016 - Frog Buttress
West of the access track
20 Dream of Purple Peach Popsicles Trad 32m Bon
Lun 4 Juil 2016 - Frog Buttress
West of the access track
19 Sorcerer's Apprentice Trad 30m Excellent
I think the start has cleaned up a bit by now but still take care.

 
21 Satyricon - avec Ben Weissner Trad 35m Bon
OK, I wasn't really taken with this but it is a nice long pitch. I found the finish very hard.

 
22 Old Guard - avec Wendy Eden Trad 40m Excellent
Better than it looks and there are a number of stances on the way.

 
20 Termination Trad 18m Bon
These days I put a side runner in IIL to the right as the wire placement at the start is not that inspiring.

 
16 Integrated Injection Logic - avec Wendy Eden Trad 15m Dans la moyenne
19 18 Plume Trad 25m Excellent
Great. And well protected.

 

Affichage de 1 - 100 sur 155 ascensions.

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