Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | |||
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Lun 15 Août 2016 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
18 |
★ Dynamite
![]() | 18m | ★★ Excellent | |||
The climbing is very nice, but there is very little gear, and the rock is not great where the gear is. A shame it's not bolted as it would be enjoyed by many.. if it was 27 it'd be bolted, but it's not cause it's 17.
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18 |
Last Picture Show
![]() | 22m | Dans la moyenne | |||
The actual corner I found quite interesting and not too hard as I could bridge to the rib on the right wall, but the start (Condor) is not that great and Wendy traversed off to the chains above Mechanical Prune as there was a death block on the ledge...
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16 |
★ Moonlighter
![]() | 15m | ||||
22 |
★ Slippin' Away
![]() | 13m | ★ Bon | |||
The corner is good - and desperate - but very short.
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23 |
★ Cracks in the Pavement
![]() | 25m | ★ Bon | |||
I really enjoyed this. Pretty tenuous in places. May be a safe lead these days with lots of micro cams, though I think you'd be on RPs at the start.
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17 |
★ King Shits and Dead Shits
![]() | 20m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Decent alt start to LLL
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Lun 15 Août 2016 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
16 |
★ Illusion / Bad Blues Link Up
![]() | 22m | ★ Bon | |||
18 |
★★★ Iron Mandible
![]() | 24m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Take care and small wires on the start
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17 |
★★ Neon Philharmonic
![]() | 35m | Dans la moyenne | |||
God this is desperate.
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21 |
★★ The Anti-From
![]() | 17m | ★ Bon | |||
24 |
Serenade for Strings
![]() | 35m | Dans la moyenne | |||
19 |
★★ Drop Out
![]() | 24m | ★ Bon | |||
Good but has a substantial loose bit
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16 |
★★ Drop-out Direct Finish
![]() | 7m | ★ Bon | |||
15 |
★ Bad Company
![]() | 20m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Insecure feeling, not that fun
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19 |
Jumbo Services Mrs Mills and the Electric Yellow Bums
![]() | 20m | Pas la peine | |||
17 16 |
★★ Micron
![]() | 20m | ★ Bon | |||
18 17 |
★★ Elastic RURP
![]() | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
20 |
★★ Catharsis
![]() | 20m | ★ Bon | |||
This is better than it looks! The top offwith is great, I used stacked handjams which worked well.
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17 |
★ Pixel Princess
![]() | 15m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Better than it looks, but has some loose blocks to be careful of up high. Also more like 17 off the ground than 15
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20 |
★★ Footloose and Falling Free
![]() | 11m | ★★ Excellent | |||
I really like this one. Surprisingly takes a blue cam 3 camalot at the top.
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19 |
★★ Magical Mystery Tour
![]() | 34m | ★ Bon | |||
Take some small wires
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21 |
★ Half-dazed and Patched Pants
![]() | 18m | Dans la moyenne | |||
I remember having a wobbler above the bolt on this!
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22 20 |
★★ The Great Big Bright Green Pleasure Machine
![]() | 33m | ★ Bon | |||
The start detracts, and the rest is quite hard, feels as hard as other 22s
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19 |
★ Bay Play
![]() | 10m | ★ Bon | |||
Hard and the gear strenuous to place. Good climbing but some loose bits.
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21 20 |
★★★ The One That Got Away
![]() | 35m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Love this one.
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23 23 X |
★★ Ockerphillia
![]() | 23m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Rapped down and looked at the gear first. IIRC there's nothing to the crux and not much after it but I got about 4 bits on the crux that I thought would hold a slump.
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23 |
★★ Chemical Adrenalin
![]() | 24m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Found this hard, maybe 24?
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21 |
★★★ Conquistador
![]() | 45m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
21 |
★★ Oppenheimer's Monster
![]() | 25m, 2 | Dans la moyenne | |||
It's been a long time but I remember being a bit put off by the rock quality, and hence the gear that's in it.
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20 |
★★★ Devils Dihedral
![]() | 45m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
My fave at Frog
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15 |
★★ Devil's Wart
![]() | 27m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Hollow corner at the top is a bit offputting
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23 |
★ Baby Staysharp
![]() | 7m, 2 | ★ Bon | |||
My first 23 flash
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18 |
★ Hello Sailor
![]() | 20m | ★ Bon | |||
This is surprisingly good. No real offwidthing required.
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17 |
Genghis Khan
![]() | 20m | Pas la peine | |||
I only just got up this! I did it by chimneying which was exhausting, maybe there is a better way. (Wendy did it much better) There really is no gear till half height, and some poor rock, and it's filthy... get on it.
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23 |
★ Go-between
![]() | 18m | ★ Bon | |||
I thought this was really nice, and I think the gear would be better these days with micro cams. Could be 22.
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19 |
★★ Hollywood Rattlesnake
![]() | 18m | ★ Bon | |||
A bit graunchy but good.
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22 |
★★ Out on a Limb
![]() | 18m | ★ Bon | |||
The crux placements have shattered which is not that confidence inspiring. You can get questionable cams now. Delicate climbing on your feet.
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22 21 |
★ Run With the Pack
![]() | 20m | ★ Bon | |||
More like a toprope. I went up Bad Company to the first good bit of gear, which is 2/3 of the way up the route. I would not trust the gear in the initial corner at all. Much scarier than Out On A Limb or The Go-Between. Climbing is ok, top crack is nice. I think 22.
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23 |
★★ The Guns of Navaronne
![]() | 30m | ★ Bon | |||
Good but the hard bit is short if you start up Odin like we did.
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22 |
★★ Decade
![]() | 30m | Dans la moyenne | |||
A good line but the climbing is easier to the left and then the right so it ended up feeling a bit contrived to me.
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17 |
★ If
![]() | 30m | Pas la peine | |||
Not that great, and neither is the gear when it matters
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21 20 |
★★★ Short Order
![]() | 30m | ★★★ Classique | |||
I find this to be solid 21. Great climbing, though feels insecure all the way. Every time I do it I remember that Malcolm soloed it. Gawd.
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17 |
★★★ Smoked Banana
![]() | 40m | ★ Bon | |||
13 12 |
★ Witches Cauldron Pitch 1
![]() | 12m | Pas la peine | |||
Quite horrible, consists of stacked blocks which contain the gear...
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18 |
Midnight Express
![]() | 23m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Not too hard, and not as bad as it looks. Some loose rock but no real offwidthing, you can head onto the R wall at the top
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17 |
★ Psychedelic Apricot Pitch Two
![]() | 25m | Dans la moyenne | |||
This seemed quite easy for 19... on second. There is a fair bit of loose rock but not awful. Climbing is ok.
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14 |
★★ Faki
![]() | 13m | ★ Bon | |||
22 |
★ Satsang
![]() | 5m, 1 | Dans la moyenne | |||
22 |
★★★ Yankee Go Home
![]() | 26m | ★★ Excellent | |||
18 |
★★ Warlock
![]() | 26m | Dans la moyenne | |||
23 |
★★ Day of the Jackal
![]() | 28m | ★★ Excellent | |||
I had a great experience on this.. a bit scared, at my limit, but got up it. I thought it was great but YMMV
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20 19 |
★★★ Thor
![]() | 30m | Pas la peine | |||
I thought this was horrible. The first half is ok but the top is just a jigsaw of loose blocks.
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20 |
★★★ Odin
![]() | 30m | Dans la moyenne | |||
I remember hating this before I could jam!
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Ven 29 Juil 2016 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
20 |
★★ Famous Cosmetics
![]() | 40m | ★ Bon | |||
I found the crux really desperate. The rest is good but shame about the ledges
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17 |
★ Phatang
![]() | 40m | Pas la peine | |||
Not great. Lots of ledges to hit and not the best rock
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24 |
★★★ Impulse
![]() | 18m | ★★★ Classique | |||
My first 24 flash, in about 89
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17 |
★ Liquid Laughter Layback
![]() | 38m | ★ Bon | |||
I remember the V groove being desperate from 88... did it again last year and it was still desperate!
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18 |
★★ Borderline 29
![]() | 15m | ★ Bon | |||
Good for a few moves but worryingly hollow
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21 22 |
★ Plummeting Pineapple (Plummeting Pinapple)
![]() | 35m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Good for a bit at the start then a bit of a ramble. There are better routes.
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21 |
★ Bongos and Beached Whales
![]() | 10m | ★ Bon | |||
Fun for a few moves
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23 |
Ground to a Halt
![]() | 14m | Dans la moyenne | |||
One #3RP if I remember right
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21 20 |
★★ Egotistical Pineapple (Egotistical Pinapple)
![]() | 14m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Great route, sustained and interesting, definitely 21 for me.
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23 |
The Guilt By Association Years
![]() | 10m | Pas la peine | |||
There are many, many better routes than this here
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11 |
★ Parson's Pleasure
![]() | 10m | ★ Bon | |||
Actually ok
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17 16 |
★ Forked Tongue
![]() | 15m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Remember it being hard for the grade
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20 19 |
★ Off the Wall
![]() | 13m | ★ Bon | |||
Interesting climbing, shame about the ledge
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19 |
★★ Southern Comfort
![]() | 15m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Really great, spoilt a bit by the loose ramble to a tree
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17 16 |
★ Sabrasucker
![]() | 25m | ★ Bon | |||
Pretty tough but gear is ok
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Dim 17 Juil 2016 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
14 |
Grandma's Tonic
![]() | 18m | Pourrie | |||
omg. Thought I'd do this to get to Theory ledge. There's a groove that's totally composed of loose blocks. Shockingly awful, and dirty and dangerous and shit climbing - it's got it all...
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24 |
★★ Keep Left
![]() | 25m | ★★ Excellent | |||
I really liked this! Super interesting climbing with flared jams, shallow bridging, face climbing and a layback section to finish. Sustained and technical. Would be hard to place gear on lead. The undercling is fragile, don't break it or it'll get a lot harder! Second shot tr.
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25 |
★★★ Carrion Comfort
![]() | 25m | ★★ Excellent | |||
I thought this was good but a little disappointing as if you're tall (and remotely flexible) you can bridge to LLL.
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19 |
★★ Inquisition
![]() | 27m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Take big cams but no actual offwidthing
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22 |
★ Thrutching is the Reward of Thrutching
![]() | 12m | ★ Bon | |||
Think of this in the same vein as "11a offwidth". An amazing (though very short) corner with crap holds at the back and desperate insecure bridge-thrutching and squeak-panting. 2 falls until I realised I was facing the wrong way.
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20 |
★★ Cannabis Crack
![]() | 40m | ★ Bon | |||
A good route with bad climbing? The start is great, and the rock is good the whole way, but the top is a really long increasingly desperate thrutch. Good to have done it once.
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16 17 |
★★ Blood, Sweat and Tears
![]() | 40m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Great except for the tight awkward section in the middle. Well protected, actually takes a lot of midsize cams
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25 |
★★★ Future Tense
![]() | 40m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Lovely climbing on the top wall, if you start up BST this feels like 24/5. I did TR the original start, which is quite hard but sadly not that great and has some dodgy rock.
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22 |
★★ Snipe
![]() | 23m, 2 | ||||
Don't remember anything!
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20 |
★★ Pollux
![]() | 23m | ★ Bon | |||
A really good route with a short section of proper offwidthing. I chicken winged and found it totally desperate but I imagine that there is better technique one could apply.
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17 16 |
★ Castor
![]() | 22m | ★★ Excellent | |||
This is a great route! Good rock and no actual offwidthing despite appearances. More like 17 though.
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18 |
★★ Sacrilege Crack
![]() | 25m | ★ Bon | |||
I found this really hard at the top but I don't feel like I have good offwidth technique. Quite a good route apart from some scary loose bits.
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18 |
★★★ Resurrection Corner
![]() | 25m | Dans la moyenne | |||
All I remember is really sore feet. Not really a fan of this one.
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18 |
★ Fat Mattress
![]() | 30m | ★ Bon | |||
Interesting all the way. A bit broken by ledges but well worthwhile. The start is tricky and hard to protect - you can get a #6 Camalot in the flare to back up the other pieces if you have one.
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18 |
★ Dave Mank's Electric Gorilla
![]() | 20m | ★ Bon | |||
22 |
★★ Dave Mank's Electric Gorilla Direct Start
![]() | 10m | ★ Bon | |||
17 |
★ Dave Mank's Electric Gorilla Direct Finish
![]() | 6m | ||||
20 |
★★ Erg
![]() | 25m | ★ Bon | |||
Gets quite wide in the middle. The finish, though it looks ugly, is actually OK
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25 |
★★ Hard Nose
![]() | 25m | ||||
26 |
★★★ Hard Nose DS
![]() | 25m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Fantastic route. Second or third shot.
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22 |
★★★ Black Light
![]() | 25m | ★★ Excellent | |||
I find this incredibly hard and insecure due to a) poor crack technique and b) my hands don't go into the crack so it's all marginal thin hands.
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18 |
★ Blood of the Christ
![]() | 25m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Not as awful as it looks, but the top has some big loose blocks that guarantee it's future unpopularity.
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22 |
★★★ Child in Time
![]() | 25m | ★★★ Classique | |||
I find this desperate in the top half where its very thin hands for me. Actually easier without tape gloves as I can get more of my hand in!
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21 |
A Hundred and One
![]() | 12m | Dans la moyenne | |||
24 |
★★ Inquisition in the Rye
![]() | 27m | ★★ Excellent | |||
This really is great. The first bit of Inquisition is excellent, clean, interesting climbing. The top half of Catcher in the Rye is wonderful, jams and locks and quite sustained on excellent rock. It's a little dirty as nobody ever does it. Might be 24, certainly had Wendy and I pulling out all stops to get up it without coming off despite having TR'd it a few days ago.
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Mar 5 Juil 2016 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
20 |
★★ Dream of Purple Peach Popsicles
![]() | 32m | ★ Bon | |||
Lun 4 Juil 2016 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
19 |
★★ Sorcerer's Apprentice
![]() | 30m | ★★ Excellent | |||
I think the start has cleaned up a bit by now but still take care.
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21 |
★★ Satyricon
![]() | 35m | ★ Bon | |||
OK, I wasn't really taken with this but it is a nice long pitch. I found the finish very hard.
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22 |
★★★ Old Guard
![]() | 40m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Better than it looks and there are a number of stances on the way.
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20 |
★★ Termination
![]() | 18m | ★ Bon | |||
These days I put a side runner in IIL to the right as the wire placement at the start is not that inspiring.
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16 |
★ Integrated Injection Logic
![]() | 15m | Dans la moyenne | |||
19 18 |
★★★ Plume
![]() | 25m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Great. And well protected.
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