Noeud |
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Warrumbungles
Perhaps the greatest concentration of high quality, long routes to be found anywhere in Australia. Adventurous routes in a remote, beautiful setting. |
Timor Rock
A large, obvious, easily accessible crag and picnic area on the north side of the road as you drive from Coonabarabran to the Warrumbungles. Climbs are described counterclockwise from the west side. |
Timor Rock |
16
Wallaby Track
Start on W Buttress below Tourist Route.
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8
Tourist Route
Apparently this route used to follow some kind of markers. I doubt they are still there. The line of least resistance. |
8
Tourist Route Variant
Start 30 m right of Tourist Route. 1-2) Direct line up open, knobby rock gully with fig at 20 m. |
10
Next Best
Start 5 m R of Tourist Route Variant. 1-2) Take a line of least resistance up wide crack behind big block. |
13
Lost Four
Start round corner (R) from Next Best. Walk up grassy gully to jumbled chimney-gully with small figs. Up. |
14
Aladdin's Lamp
Start in next gully R of Lost Four. 1-2) Up deep, black gully with fig root running to the bottom of it. |
18
★ Kamilaroi
Start 2 m R of Aladdin's Lamp at a small fig.
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17
Indigenous
Start round buttress (R) from Kamilaroi at fig jungle.
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14
Brother
Start 5 m R of Indigenous.
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17
Corm's Invitation
Start at second gully E of Brother.
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16
★ April Fool
Start at prominent black streak 10 m R of Corm's Invitation.
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15
The Falcon Flies
Start 10 m R of April Fool, in middle of S Face.
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15
Gulf Crisis
Start 20 m W of pine on buttress.
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17
Beachcomber
Start at sloping, scrubby crack that leads towards prominent pine on skyline.
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10
Falcon Nest
Start as for Beachcomber.
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9
Billy
Start round buttress E of Falcon Nest.
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15
Dark Side of the Moon
Start E of main buttress in middle of cliff.
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15
Cissus
Start 4m E of Dark Side of the Moon.
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16
Done in Dunlops
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14
Sunday School
Start 5m E of Done in Dunlops.
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17
★ Horizons
Start 5m W of big detached pillar.
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15
Face Value
Crack up middle of big detached pillar L of the Devils Chair. Abseil down back. A slightly easier route has been done up back of this pillar - no further details. |
17
Walk on the Wild Side
Start in big gully with blackberries W of the Devils Chair.
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15
Intrigue
Start at chimney roughly behind the Devils Chair. 1-2) Chimney with roof at 10 m. |
17
Gates of Hell
Broken crack-line behind the Devils Chair. |
15
Sunnyside
Crack on NE Face, then round bulge at three quarters height. |
15
Wandering Wilburys
Start 30 m R of Sunnyside. 1-2) Up. |
Mopra Rock
This crag is also on the R side of the road into the park from Coonabarabran, but is about eight or nine km closer to the park than Timor Rock, before Siding Springs. Mopra Rock is not inside the National Park. Climbs are described clockwise from West Ridge |
Mopra Rock |
6
★ West Ridge
Start at base of ridge. 1-2) Wander up. |
7
Gold, Gold, Gold
Start 50 m L of West Ridge, where a branch from a stringy-bark almost touches the cliff [well, it did in 1992...]. 1-2) Wander up, meeting West Ridge near top. |
11
Errol Street
A good easy slab route. Once (and may still) had a cairn at the base. Start 30m left of Gold Gold Gold at a big block sitting on slab.
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16
One-move Wonder
Start on N face in major circular cut-out, 100m W of Old Timer. Sloping rock, then through overhang. Up easily to belay, then scramble up. |
12
Simple Simon
Start: About half-way around the north side and directly below clean, open easy slabs from which a good final corner looms. Used to be a cairn at the base. 1-2) Slabs then corner above. A belay may be difficult to organise. |
12
Antman
Start 15m W of Old Timer.
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12
Old Timer
Start on N Face between an angophora and a wild cherry.
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Mt Scabilon
This peak is off the north side of east park access road, about 5 km from Mopra Rock. The only route to date is on the big western slab. |
Mt Scabilon |
15
Henri Wintermans
Start at crack in bulge atop big scoop in middle of face.
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Berumbuckle Split Rock
This fairly major, walled peak is about 5 km NE of the Needle. The peak has three main faces, the left and middle of which are the highest. There is a fine descent gully through the middle (Head Wall) face and the long north bluffs (Whale-back Crag). The left bluff (Tower Bluff) breaks up to south where there is one route so far. |
Berumbuckle Split Rock |
13
Wet Trick
A Lakeland·style route. Start at S end of Tower Bluff below easy-angled ramps.
3-4) 60 m Up, turning loose block at 15 m on L. Finish up crack. |
Dead Cow Cliffs
These cliffs are located 6 km inside the park from the east entrance, on the north side of the road. |
Dead Cow Cliffs |
18
★ Without Bloodshed
Start at prominent orange corner crack with large, white gum at top. |
14
Battle-weary
Gully/crack-line 40 m E of Without Bloodshed, past bushes. |
12
★ Nose of El Bovine
Start 6m left of bloodshed at thin crack. Up through bulge to blunt arête. |
18
★ The Udder-one
Start between bloodshed and the nose next to big blocks. Up through bulge to seam and wall. |
Belougery Spire
Belougery Spire is the first of many breath-taking rock features encountered en route to the Grand High Tops. The climbs of Belougery Spire include both short and long routes, varying in grade from easy to more difficult, with the 'Warrumbungles factor' of route-finding adding to the difficulties. |
Belougery Spire |
West Face
From the walking track that leads to Belougery Spire from the Grand High Tops, walk round W side of Belougery Pinnacle, then continue down beside W Face. Routes are also described from right to left (facing cliff). West Face Direct Start and Missing You Marcelle provide an alternative approach to the Halfway Ledge, as opposed to the scramble approach. |
Belougery Spire West Face |
10
★★ Vertigo
A classic climb up a steep, exposed wall and slab on good rock. An excellent intro to climbing at the Warrumbungles. Can be climbed in two pitches. Scramble up to below the red-brown wall in middle of W Face, between prominent buttress and Abseil Gully (10 m L of Abseil Gully). Start just left of the 'V'
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14
★★ Endeavour Face
Start 3 m L of Abseil Gully, below bulging rock.
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6
★★★ Tourist Traverse
The route of the original ascent of Belougery Spire by Eric Dark and Osmar White in 1932, interpreted from a description of the FA in Walkabout 1-4-36, which said'...one pitch is a three· hundred-foot traverse across the face of the mountain on a ledge from a foot to three feet wide, with sheer rock wall above and a drop of a thousand feet below'. This clearly describes pitches two and three of this route. Start: At the far right hand end of the Halfway Ledge below the obvious, vegetated gully. 1: 20m As for pitch one of Abseil Gully. Up corner/gully to chains on right. 2: 50 m Traverse left across the middle of the face on the big ledge (tending up at the end) and into the vegetated gully. 3: 40m At very end of ledge is a fine chimney, which leads to the famous 'Anti·Marilyn' squeeze hole. It is not really tight although presumably Marilyn couldn't do it. It is possible to climb around to the left of the squeeze hole too. 4: 20m Easy climbing to the summit. |
10
Abseil Gully
Start: At the far right hand end of the Halfway Ledge below the obvious, vegetated gully.
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6
Dr Dark's Chimney
This route was once thought to be Eric Dark's and Osmar White's original route to the summit. This is almost certainly not the case. However, since this route is already well known as Dr Dark's Chimney it is probably less confusing to retain this name as a tribute to Eric Dark's achievements in the Warrumbungles. From the top of the water-worn gully that leads to Half-way Ledge on W face, turn R up steep, vegetated gully. Many parties prefer to avoid this gully by climbing first two pitches of If the Spirit Moveth. 1-2: 60 m Scrubby gully on R, carefully, to large ledge at base of slabs leading up to chimney. Belay off bush. 3: 25 m Diagonally R up slabs to short crack. Crack to ledge below main chimney. 4: 35 m (crux) Chimney to where it opens out. Belay. Easy scramble to S summit. |
15
No Birthdays on Pluto
Shares start of If the Spirit Moveth (same first two pitches), continues to Doctor Dark's Chimney belay ledge, then goes L of Doctor Dark's Chimney and up wall. Follow track to W Face. Continue along track behind detached pinnacle and scramble up first narrow gully to narrow ledge.
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20
★★ Peregrine
A fantastic varied crack high up on the west face of the spire. It provides a superb low(er) commitment but engaging approach to the south summit pinnacle on the spire. Excellent protection, clean rock and stellar crack climbing which all in one combo is a rarity in the Bungles. Stays in the shade till after midday (1 to 2pm ish in September). Start on the upper ledge system (above and south of the Vertigo ledges) reached via pitch 1 and 2 of Dr Dark's Chimmney (the scrubby gully accessed from the base of the Abseil Gully), or pitch 1 and 2 of If the Spirit Moveth (and No Birthdays on Pluto). Done as one 50-55m pitch to the summit. Start 10m right (facing in) from the slab pitch (pitch 3) of Dr Dark's Chimmney. From the broad ledge below the slabs, solo easy ground up and right to a good belay stance in the grassy recess below a chockstone belay. The finger crack through a small bulge (crux) can be seen 8m above. The crack eases and widens after the crux bulge and after 25-30m arches left to join Dr Darks Chimmney for the final 20-25m. Belaying once the Chimney is reached would also be an option. Led ground up by Rick with Peregrines buzzing about in magic conditions. Originally done in a combo with the first ascent of Fan Tail. When done as a combo with either Fan Tail, or Meet Me At The Crux, it provides an excellent contemporary and engaging route to the summit. The scrubby gully and halfway ledges provide easy access and bail options for lower commitment on shorter days. |
8
If the Spirit Moveth
The following two routes, one a variant of the other have only vague route descriptions. They start at the top of the first gully that leads up to Halfway Ledge on W Face. The upper pitches of both climbs lie R of Doctor Dark's Chimney; the first follows a wall and a rib, the second a gully. Start where access track reaches SW Arete.
Attributed by Bryden Allen in 63 to Davis and Pettigrew. Description is from an earlier, more detailed record. |
11
★ If the Spirit Doesn't Moveth
One of many variants on If the Spirit Moveth. Variants are possible up to the foot of Dr Dark's Chimney, and from there on to S Face. A better description might read 'Up SW Arete to foot of Dr Dark's Chimney. Traverse R to face. Up'. Start above access gully on SW Arete.
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10
West Face Direct Start
This route and Missing You Marcelle provide a direct start to the upper Halfway Ledge at the base of Vertigo, as opposed to the scramble approach up the lower part of the Abseil Gully. While the previous description suggested the route starts from ground level, it is more likely that it starts at the top of the large lower (first) main vegetated ledge that is reached after the scramble up and over from Belougary Pinnacle as per the access to the Halfway Ledge. They likely climb the wall left of the water-worn gully below the Halfway Ledge and Vertigo. During a new route ascent on the lower west face (from ground level) no bolts or easy grade 10 lines from ground level were found which indicates the higher start. Start somewhere left of the beginning of the water worn gully used to scramble up used to access the Halfway Ledge, the Abseil Gully and Vertigo.
Finish up route of choice. The topo line is a guess. Please update this if you confirm it. |
15
Missing You Marcelle
Excellent climbing. Start as for West Face Direct Start. Steeply L up line of steps to old bolt, then R to stance. Wall above to tree belay. The topo line is a guess. Please update this if you confirm it. |
Belougery Spire |
North Face
From the walking track that leads to Belougery Spire from the Grand High Tops, walk round W side of Belougery Pinnacle, then continue down past the W Face and around the corner to the N Face. Routes are also described from right to left (facing cliff). |
Belougery Spire North Face |
20
★★ Fan Tail
An excellent modern style trad route up a series of unlikely features through a steep, intricate and pumpy weakness. Very different more sporty climbing compared to most other rock on the spires. Might be one star at present as it still has lots of loose rock on it after the first ascent. However, after a good clean on abseil or more ascents, it will offer solid and superb rock. Protection is fiddly and intricate to place but entirely adequate with modern tactics. Long slings and double ropes are essential. Med RPs, full rack plus double cams up to BD/WildCountry(WC) No.1, critical micro cams (WC 0.1 to 0.2). Led ground up by Simmo with 1 rest below the crux, after all the obvious foot and hand holds kept breaking off ! Shares the same start as More Than a Pretty Face and Meet Me At The Crux. Start at ground level at a small right-leaning overlap about 80 m down the scree gully and overhung blocky wall that extends from Belougery Pinnacle. This is where the orange and grey stone on the left meets water-streaked black and white blocky stone under the lowest point of the Vee emerging from the first large vegetated ledge on the spire. Breach the overlap going left through a small ledge where a grass tree (Xanthorrhoea) is growing (sneaky good 0.5 WC cam), with delicate and committing moves to pull into the bottom grooves of More Than a Pretty Face, med bomber RP and 0.75 WC higher up. Begin an intricate right traverse across the black and white blocky water-streaked rock to gain a small corner below rooflet. Excellent but fiddly wires and micro cams. Treat all footers and hand holds with much caution until it gets more cleaned up. Sort out more excellent but intricate wires and micro cams from the corner, then commit to the cryptic and pumpy crux through the rooflet, then trend back left over the pumpy bulge, bomber micro cam, to strenuously gain a finger crack and easier ground. Re-compose and follow the line of least resistance trending slightly right up the divine and still thought-provoking, water-worn stone to the lowest part of the Vee of the large lower vegetated ledge. Good wires and med cams. |
20
★★ Meet Me At The Crux
Another excellent contemporary style route added by Simm_o and Rick during 2022. Led onsight ground up. P1 Rick, P2 Simm_o. Follows a series of funky grooves and cracks on the lower pitch to a steep bulging and exposed finger crack on the upper pitch with easier corners and face climbing to the top. Double standard rack. Double ropes reccommended. Currently marred by some appalling rock and dicey but easy moves at the beginning of pitch 2. However, after a further clean on abseil (and potentially but not necessarily a bolt), it will offer excellent climbing up a strong line. Start as for 'More Than a Pretty Face' and 'Fan Tail'. P1 grade 20, 25 m - After gaining the beginning of the grooves shared by 'More Than a Pretty Face', follow the first groove and crack up then step delicately right into a trench above and right (take care on some still loose rock). Good med cams and wires. More delicate moves to exit up and left out of the trench onto easier ground. Up to belay ( small/med cams and wires) on the right end (facing in) of an orange ledge next to the righthand of two small figs. P2 grade 20, 40 m - From the belay move delicately along the (at present very loose blocky) ledge and balance up to place a decent high small wire just up and right of the second fig. Step back down off the ledge and gingerly but easily hand traverse left across precarious loose blocks and poor pro to the end of the ledge. More easy but dicey moves up to gain bomber gear in the start of the finger crack proper. Follow the finger crack (crux) 8m through a series of exposed bulges and balancy moves with excellent small wires and cams, to pull over a final bulge to a rest. Follow the easier well protected corners up until a rooflet caps the last corner. Escape the roofs to the right by a committing step right onto the face (great small/med cams) then up another 20m over easier well protected ground trending slightly right to belay stances where the buttress rounds over into the large vegetated gully. |
19
More Than a Pretty Face
An appealing line with quality climbing. Start on the lower West Face (below the Halfway Ledge), about 2/3 way down the scree descent towards Pegasus and 60m right of that route.
[The topo line may be incorrect. Please update it]. |
15
★ Pegasus
Goes up the north west buttress for about 150m to the terrace, then takes a line between the upper part of Scunge Gully and Vertigo. Start: The first obvious entry to the cliff on the way down from the pinnacle to the start of Scunge Gully i.e. roughly 30 metres right of Scunge Gully.
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17
★★ Caucasus Corner / Pegasus Link up
If you want to do the Quality crux pitch of Caucasus Corner and skip the loose blocks above then this is the route for you. After Pitch 5 on the large green ledge walk 50m north to the join Pegasus's last two pitches. |
17
★★★ Caucasus Corner
Start about 30m right of Scunge Gully.
When at top there is a 10m abseil into gully then one more short scramble/pitch to true summit. |
22
★★ Caucasus Corner Direct
Where CC moves left out of the corner buckle up and blast straight up the line and overlaps above past 4(?) well spaced fixed hangers and trad. On an earlier attempt pre bolts the leader fell 30m to land largely unharmed (physically at least) on the slabs below the belayer. He then promptly gave up climbing! The other half of the party returned, placed minimal hardware and finished the job. |
17
★ Stegosaurus
Start midway between Scunge Gully and Caucasus Corner, below buttress.
[The topo line may be incorrect. Please update it]. |
15
Scunge Gully
One of the longest climbs in the 'Bungles. A good deal harder if the final chimney can't be squeezed! Start: Above the scunge (in the centre) of the north face, up scrubby gully, to chimney leading right.
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16
★★★ Napawi
Pleasant and varied.
[The topo line may be incorrect. Please update it]. |
16
The Mudgee Mail
Rattles around a bit but eventually gets there. Starts as for Scunge Gully and finishes on Out and Beyond.
6-7) 80m As for Out and Beyond. Rising traverse up right towards wide corner, back left to pitons on ledge below left end of overhang, traverse left below overhang into groove and up. [The topo line may be incorrect. Please update it]. |
15
★★ Out and Beyond
Magnificent. Start at the lowest point of the face, under prominent pinnacle. Easy slabs lead up 60m to a prominent pinnacle.
[The topo line may be incorrect. Please update it]. |
14
★★ Out and Beyond Direct Finish
The corner system on Out and Beyond, pitch six. 6a) 27 m Crack-corner. 7a) 48 m The line. |
Belougery Spire |
South East Face
From Grand High Tops walking track, walk round E side of Belougery Pinnacle to E Face. Routes are listed from left to right (facing cliff). |
Belougery Spire South East Face |
10
East Face Route
Start: Scramble down about 60 m from Belougery Pinnacle to the large right-tending, vegetated, rising ledge system below a steep orange wall. The original route started from the ground about 100 m down from the Pinnacle but given the poor rock quality low down it is easier (and better) to traverse in on the ledge to what was the original start of Pitch 5. Scramble or climb 100 m or so up and over the top of the ledge to the base of the huge right leaning corner system.
[The topo line may be incorrect. Please update it. In fact, it isnt even clear if it goes to the summit ridge on the left or right at the end...]. The length of the route seems too short too. The original first three pitches are described below but there are many variations to access the main corner system if you choose this direct option.
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13
Dank, Dark and Dirty
One of endless variants to gain the main, upper corner system if you start on ground, rather than the main ledge. Start 10m right of the East Face Route (original start). Dark, mossy corner tending left; poor pro. Up to pocket, then up right. Now back left to join East Face Route at tree (original pitch 1 or 2). |
12
(Unnamed)
As for East Face Route for 20 m, then rising traverse L across If The Spirit Moveth and finally across Doctor Dark's Chimney up high. [The topo line is a complete guess. Please update it]. |
15
★ Hope lost, Hope found
Some contrived scrambling to an amazing chimney pitch with simple quality climbing to the top. Slight amounts of bushbashing. DO NOT DO WHEN WET, the chimney is dark and mossy and is probably unclimbable within a few days of serious rain, Otherwise good when dry.
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Belougery Spire |
Belougery Pinnacle
This is the pinnacle you come to as you approach Belougery Spire from the Grand High Tops. |
Belougery Spire Belougery Pinnacle |
17
Sculptor
Start on NW side of pinnacle (away from Belougery Spire). Up through small roofs. |
Fermé The Bread-Knife
An amazing fin of rock right beside the trail to the Grand High Tops. |
Fermé The Bread-Knife |
13
★ North Arete
Start on E side of Bread-knife at N end, up about 5 m on to rock ridge.
6-7) 39 m Traverse L on to E face, then ramp to gap between summits. '8) 12 m Up. '9) 33 m Along· ridge to abseil point. |
17
★ East Face
An inspiring face and climb. Start below white streak from eagles' nest, just R of vines.
Originally 17,M2 with aid on pitch four. |
14
South-east Ramp
Start directly below first belay of South Arete, at steep,juggywall.
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11
★★★ South Arete
The original route to the top. Exposed. Start at gap between Bread-knife and Butter-knife. Scramble along ridge for 15 m to base of arete.
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14
★★ Skyline Traverse
Start as for North Arete.
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18
★★ Heart-stopper
The first grade 18 in Australia! Brilliant route-finding. Start on W Face, at N end of overhang.
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14
Major Route
Start 10 m lower than North Arete. 1-7) Up past Heart-stopper to finish up Minor Route. Bolt and piton runners. |
12
The Minor Route
Start on W Face, R of gap.
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16
★★ Broadsword
Girdle traverse of W side of Bread-knife and Butter-knife. Start as for North Arete. 1-3: 75 m Traverse R past smooth, grey rock and bolts to small stance just before steepening. Bolt or piton. 4: 30 m (crux) Diagonally R to ledge. Steep and exposed. 5-6: 60 m R until diagonally down is easier. Slabby, smooth, greenish rock to ledge. 7: 45 m Traverse R, crossing Minor Route, to below gap between Bread-knife and Butter-knife. 8-11: 105 m Traverse R across Butter-knife to its S arete. Finish up this. |
The Butter-Knife
This cliff is immediately south of the Bread-knife, and offers high-quality shorter routes. Climbs are described south to north, along the west face. The topos have been interpreted from the descriptions but are unconfirmed. Please update as required. |
The Butter-Knife |
16
The Sabre
Start at small buttress 18 m L of approach.
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19
★ The Rapier
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18 M2
★★ Stiletto
Impetuous and daring. Start 9 m R of Cutlass, below steep, L-leading line.
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18
Cutlass
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14
★★ Toast and Jam
Well-protected broken crack system at S end on E face. Good solid rock. |
The Fish-Knife
A shorter outrider to the Bread-knife, this is the next bluff south of the Butter-knife. Climbs are listed from S to N along W Face. |
The Fish-Knife |
14
★ The Sickle
Start near the top/southern end of the wall, beneath the gap between the large roofs.
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14
The Scythe
15m left of The Sickle. Start at black wall below roofs at 25 m.
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Balor Peak
The peak that is about 50m north of Balor Hut. It is also the cliff/peak you see on your right as you go up the first major set of stairs on the way to Balour Hut. The north face is about 100m high, is quite broken and has a variety of rock quality. The south face is short but offers some fun top-roping that is very convenient for people staying at the hut. There are many more top roping options than listed here. Rigging top ropes is quite difficult though due to the lack of placements at the top of the crag. |