Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | Grimpeur | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mer 12 Juin 2024 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
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1
6
30m
2
8
30m
3
8
30m
4
14
40m
5
13
20m
6
12
20m
7
11
20m
| 190m | |||||
This was really fun. Beautiful route, stellar position, just make sure to not leave your shoes at the top, otherwise you'll have to please bring them back to you. Thanks again boys...
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14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | |||||
Mar 11 Juin 2024 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]()
1
6
30m
2
8
30m
3
8
30m
4
14
40m
5
13
20m
6
12
20m
7
11
20m
| 190m | |||||
Dim 9 Juin 2024 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Awesome day out! First half of the climb was amazing, filled with really cool positions. Second half was a bit choss, especially the last pitch, but you can't see the choss if it's dark! A bit of a sketchy and slippery descent down green glacier, would have appreciated a bolt for a traverse line down to the waterfall rap (creek was flowing) but made do with a few cams to get the leader down.
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Jeu 23 Mai 2024 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Absolute classic!
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14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Mer 22 Mai 2024 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Number Two on the birthday link up with Bluff Mountain and Belougery - 15 hours 55 minutes car to car. Soloed to the base of the crux pitch then simuled to the top in one block. Even better than i remembered. This thing is all time! Descending Green Glacier took longer than the route and is kinda shit (but very pretty).
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14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]()
1
6
30
2
8
30
First 3 pitches done in 2
3
8
30
grimpé en tête par
oscar
4
14
40
grimpé en tête par
oscar
5
13
20
6
12
20
grimpé en tête par
oscar
7
11
20
| 190m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Wow what a day to remember for a mix of reasons. Started walking from pinchmans at 6am in the dark and collapsed at the car at 6.30pm also in the dark. Didn't have too much trouble with route finding the whole day. The climbing itself was average quality with some sections having some nice moves. Gear was good in most places other than crux sections. Quite a large amount of loose blocks on every pitch. As for the grade it felt much harder than 14 through the crux sections meaning we both felt very unprepared for the difficulty. BUT I am not experienced in multi pitch climbing and have never climbed in the warumbungles. All in all was an epic day up at big rock, what more could you want!!
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Sam 27 Avr 2024 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]()
1
6
50
grimpé en tête par
Sjom
The original first three pitches now done in two, many good places to set up an anchor.
3
8
25
grimpé en tête par
Bonnie
Not all the way to the top of the lower rib, set up anchor just before, from there easy to pitch 4.
4
14
40
grimpé en tête par
Sjom
Really great, did end up following the rib which is all a bit loose at that first section past the little horn. Best traverse left a bit as in the guide.
7
11
20
grimpé en tête par
Sjom
The last pitch ends in a gully with lots of loose rocks move carefully. | 180m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Managed to not make it an epic, as a party of 5. We climbed in 2 + 3, worked well, enough room on the belay stances in general. We were overtaken by a party of 2, no issue with a bit of considered rope use. Walked out from Balor hut at 6am, started climbing at 7.30 (in the dark hard to stay on the track up and left after crossing the creek (find the cairns at the crossing), we ended up 30 meters below Cornerstone and had to scramble up, despite a reccie the night before). Topped at 15.30pm had a break and lunch. The descent very doable (it was dry), first a short abseil and a little scramble down the green track. Another short abseil (one bolt with homemade plate). Then a long walk/scramble down more green goodness to last tree (two jerricans of water there, one empty, the other broken but filled with disgusting looking water). From there down climb/walk/all fours to double bolt and chain anchor above waterfall (would hate to that part in the dark when wet). Instructions clear enough to make it with care to the last abseil (double bolt/chain) great views at last of the sun, and down to ledge. Walked off and found the track down just in the last light, walk out to the saddle and balor hut easy to find and fast.
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Ven 5 Avr 2024 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
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1
6
30m
2
8
30m
3
8
30m
4
14
40m
5
13
20m
6
12
20m
7
11
20m
| 190m | |||||
Lun 1 Avr 2024 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]()
1
6
30
grimpé en tête par
Anna
2
8
30
grimpé en tête par
Anna
3
8
30
grimpé en tête par
Anna
7
11
20
grimpé en tête par
Anna
| 190m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
An interesting day where we started with 5 and ended the day with 3 (no one fell off! 2 members bailed at the top of pitch III). We started at around 8am and returned at 11pm for a 15 hour day.
Initially this was climbed as 2 parties of 2 and 3. Marlee and Erika were the first party. I was with Anna and Jessie. We did not climb the pitches as numbered here. I will number the 'official' pitches in Roman and our pitches in Arabic numerals. Excellent climbing. Loved the exposure on pitch IV! I would argue the climb is sandbagged because the move on pitch IV is harder than 14. Perhaps a grade 15/16 move? The rock quality on much of the route, especially the final 2 pitches is somewhat dubious, but good quality placements can be found with a little investigating. Anna led the first 2 pitches (combined pitch I/II/III). Marlee then made an attempt at pitch IV, but was a little spooked by the moves off a directional nut she placed and retreated. I then had to catch up so the full party was on the belay ledge. I led pitch IV (as pitch 3) while Erika and Jessie elected to bail due to anticipated time constraints. This later proved wise. Rope drag was substantial on pitch 3 and 4, but otherwise uneventful. Anna led pitch 5 (combined pitches VI/VII) and earned the glory of summitting first. Descent down the Green Glacier was confusing. Our beta is as follows.
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Ven 1 Mars 2024 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | |||||
Lun 1 Jan 2024 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
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1
6
30m
2
8
30m
3
8
30m
4
14
40m
5
13
20m
6
12
20m
7
11
20m
| 190m | |||||
Jeu 28 Déc 2023 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 Difficile |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Dim 29 Oct. 2023 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 Difficile |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Great climbing, mega classic. Nicer to climb with cool temps
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Mer 18 Oct. 2023 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
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1
6
30m
2
8
30m
3
8
30m
4
14
40m
5
13
20m
6
12
20m
7
11
20m
| 190m | |||||
Awesome day out. Well paced and easy enough climbing but committing and adventurous. Lovely day out. Crux pitch is certainly exposed, climbing with a pack is never fun. Good day out! Linked the last two pitches into one. Baby's first trad anchor!
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Sam 14 Oct. 2023 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
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1
6
30m
2
8
30m
3
8
30m
4
14
40m
5
13
20m
6
12
20m
7
11
20m
| 190m | |||||
So stoked to tick this climb after first seeing this line on a bushwalking trip almost 3 years ago. We decided to rack up at the hut and departed at 7:15 with 2x sets of wires, cams 0.3-3 with doubles 0.3-2, some hexes and 16 alpine draws. We lost the track a bit when crossing the side creek as we were too far from the confluence but were at the base by 8:15 and climbing as a party of 3 by 8:30. Pitches 1-3 were combined into two pitches with minimal gear placed putting us ahead of schedule. P4 was the one to remember, traversing out onto the face to gain all that exposure, putting in some gear and trying to follow the path of least resistance up was a highlight. Michael bravely look the lead at P6 after lugging the backpack up the 1st 5 pitches for a 2:30pm top out. Leisurely lunch on the summit with the skinks and chatted to a hiker on the return to the hut for a 10.5hr day total. The descent took longer than expected however it was not helped by me tossing 100m of rope off the 1st 10m down climb/rap into a big tangle in the bushes below. The radios were very useful and our 2L of water per person was adequate.
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14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
What an incredible adventure! Excellent leads by Rory Hentshel and Michael 'Monty' Burns, with sherpa Jordy in tow! Crux pitch, slung horn, deep breath, traversing face left for a few m, climbing direct to regain the rib, MAGIC!!!!!!
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Ven 6 Oct. 2023 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★ Bon | ||||
Mar 5 Sept 2023 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Mer 26 Juil 2023 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Honestly this was an amazing adventure, completely lives up to the hype! It’s a great line, awesome position with nice climbing the whole way and solid pro.
Very cool descent through the Canyon too, although worth noting that the last abseil with a 70m rope only gets you to a small ledge approx 3m above the large one, requiring a largely safe but still exposed down climb From Balor Hut, we had a 1hr approach (including some route finding), 5hr climbing, 45 mins at the summit, 2hr descent and 45 mins return for a 9.5hr day. |
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14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Sam 22 Juil 2023 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
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1
6
30m
2
8
30m
3
8
30m
4
14
40m
5
13
20m
6
12
20m
7
11
20m
| 190m | |||||
Dim 9 Juil 2023 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | |||||
An excellent alpine outing. 10.5 hours car to car from Pincham Camp Carpark.
Probably wouldn't recommend this as anyone's first 14... Also wouldn't recommend doing it in approach shoes. There's fuck-all gear on it either so maybe don't bring the rack at all. |
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Mar 27 Juin 2023 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | |||||
Simul-climbed pitches 1-3, first time climbing with progress captures. Bottom to top in 5 hours. Beautiful seeing the Green Glacier in daylight this time. Took a more left/arete route on the grade 12 pitch this time for better rock quality and easier climbing.
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Sam 24 Juin 2023 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | |||||
Lovely day out in a beautiful location. Left Melbourne lunchtime Friday, arriving at Pincham shortly after midnight. Departed from the carpark at 0630 after a few hours sleep and a much-needed coffee. Climbing was straightforward and enjoyable despite questionable rock but we were slowed somewhat by route finding to/from Dagda saddle and a wet descent. Led P1/2, 4, 6/7. Around 11 hours car-to-car then a few hours drive onwards toward Frog before a comfortable roadside bivvy.
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Dim 18 Juin 2023 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | |||||
Late start as we woke up at 7:30 due to the grueling hike the night before, trad gear is heavy!!! Nicole and I chose cornerstone and Yim and Rob went up Lieben. Talks from Yiom claiming he would climb so fast he would also get up cornerstone in the same day. The day was gorgeous with no clouds and pristine blue skies and thankfully cornerstone is in the full sun to make it warmer with that cold breeze constantly blowing. We scrambled up the first pitch and roped up at the base of the second pitch. There are some scary moves on the second pitch so I was happy to be attached to a rope. Pitch 4, the crux, and quite a few scary moves, thankfully Nicole found great pro and we had made some headway, although it was starting to get later than we had hoped. This being my first big trad multi I was quite scared to lead and so Nicole did most of the leads, I jumped in at the end and linked the last 2 pitches. A solid tree anchor at the top and we toped out with enough sunset to finish the rappels. Yim and Rob toped out at the same time as us, got down the mountain just as the dark was descending and walked back by our led powered suns, portable enough to be carried on our heads. Why did we decide to do phoenix the next day after we got back in the dark for a much shorter multi...
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Lun 12 Juin 2023 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
2nd time up Crater Bluff, beautiful feature! 2/3
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Ven 2 Juin 2023 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Fond but sad memories from my previous ascent of this with Nick. Did it today from Blackmans camp with Dave and Jonty. The rocks average but the experience is great.
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Ven 5 Mai 2023 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | |||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Great day out and awesome climbing line. Descent was pretty fun too.
P1+2 and 5+6 linked.
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14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]()
1
8
55
4
13
50
| 190m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Spectacular. Just as good the second time.
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Lun 1 Mai 2023 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]()
1
6
30
2
8
30
3
8
30
4
14
40
5
13
20
6
12
20
7
11
20
| 190m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
After being munched on by bed bugs, depleted by Frogs, and drenched at Kaputar, finally we made to the 'bungles hoping to not get Bungled. We woke up early at 5am and were rewarded by a solid layer of ice at camp Blackman (must be -4C or so, wtf). Powered by two tea bags each, we made it to the base of CR by 8:15am. Mark combined P1&2 in 12 mins. I led the third and in usual fashion took forever to make an anchor. Unfortunately, it felt like the Antarctic was just a stone throw away, with icy winds on top of P3. Mark lead the spicy 14 and I combined the 5&6, which seemed like a choss factory but was really a lot of fun. We topped out at 1pm and soaked in the sun.
The heavy downpour the day before meant the Green Glacier was wet af. We took our time to not lose our limbs in the sea of loose rock and ferns. All in all, a day to cherish!
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14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | |||||
Great excursion! Scraped thick ice off the car at 5 am and made it to the base after 2 hours of hiking. Romped the first three pitches, partly just trying to keep warm. Felt Pitch 4 was slightly old-school 14... The "horn" is much smaller than I expected and really obvious when you see it. It's tempting to keep moving up and left several times after the step round the arete, but it's pretty much straight back up after the initial traverse despite seeming unlikely territory from below. Pitches 5 and 6 looked glorious from my belay vantage - could just have done with a little sun. The decent was ok but a little bit sketchy. "Green Glacier" means scree-filled gully carpeted in ferns and bramble. Everything was still a bit wet and a few large boulders are quite keen on making something more of their lives. Still, it added to the adventure and I've yet to do a mountains multi without opportunities for additional spice on the trip back to camp. Definitely get on it, and don't worry too much about route finding - just stick to the absolute point of the arete pretty much everywhere you sanely can.
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Jeu 13 Avr 2023 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
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1
6
30
2
8
30
3
8
30
5
13
20
| 190m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Fuck yeah was so sick to be on the exposure of the infamous (actually famous for good reasons) Cornerstone Rib!! YEW. Cold day but did it full expedition style with Haz, Dyl, Lee, Jordy, Nick and Isaac. Squad up on Cornerstone. Returning was a mishy in the dark, limited light and in slippery gullies, but got it done and a classic late return to camp. Good fun and intro to adventure climbing. I'm keeeen to get back to the bluies and send it on more mad missions!! so much to do there
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Mer 12 Avr 2023 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | |||||
Man what a day, such awesome exposure and climbing, really fun despite the hectic wind we had to deal with on belay ledges. Started on who knows what to the right of the actual start but got back on track after that. Highlight was definitely waiting around for 3hrs for sunset only to realise half your party didn't bring fuckin head torches. Sick
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Dim 9 Avr 2023 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
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1
6
30m
2
8
30m
3
8
30m
4
14
40m
5
13
20m
6
12
20m
7
11
20m
| 190m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
great mission with the whole crew up this thing. was going to do an 8 person simul train up, but decided best not to, with some of the guys being their first Bungles climb here. was a full day and got back late, but its only a true trad mission if youre back at camp in darkness, with the moon lighting your way home.
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Sam 8 Avr 2023 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]()
3
8
30m
4
14
40m
5
13
20m
6
12
20m
7
11
20m
| 130m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Left Balor hut early at 6am to beat the crowds. Luckily we did, because we managed to get lost on the way there. Started up wrong pitch (stiffer than 8) off to the right of actual. Realised when we got to start of 3rd. High winds in the morning were very chilly, easing up a bit when we went higher and became more protected and the sun came out. Absolute classic, choss and all. Standout pitches for me were pitch 4 and 5. Waited around at the summit until sunset, when the entire party made it up. Descended via Green Glacier as it got darker, totally benighted by the time we got to the second rap. Made it back to camp at 9pm.
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14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
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1
6
30
2
8
30
3
8
30
4
14
40
5
13
20
6
12
20
7
11
20
| 190m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
8 person simul up cornerstone rib baby. Unfortunately it was not. But a KILLER day! Climbed with my man Baron St Battler khsuhdogmillionaire Super flowy climbing and good to repeat with the fellas who hadn't done it before. Beautiful scenery as always and an awesome walk through the green glacier.
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14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Woo! First big multi above 40m, and I only cried once! Hectic mish and fun climbing.
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Ven 7 Avr 2023 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Lives up to the hype! Pulling onto the crux in a total whiteout and 50 km winds was pretty damn memorable
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Jeu 6 Avr 2023 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]()
1
6
30
2
8
30
3
8
30
| 190m | |||||
Weather was great. Relaxed introduction to the bungles.
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14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
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1
6
30m
2
8
30m
3
8
30m
4
14
40m
5
13
20m
6
12
20m
7
11
20m
| 190m | |||||
Noice
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Ven 18 Nov. 2022 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Mar 4 Oct. 2022 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | |||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Jeu 29 Sept 2022 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | |||||
5 pitches. The crux pitch horn felt looser than a few years ago
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14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Lun 26 Sept 2022 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
A nice day out. We started at 6am and reached the base at about 7:30am. The track off the hiking trail is getting overgrown. I'll link the GPX trail we did without getting lost. We simulclimbed the route in 2 pitches with microtraxions every 30 meters, stopping at the end of pitch 4 to belay my seconder up the 14 crux & reset gear. I took a double rack of cams from 0.2 to 3, 18 alpine draws, and 4 microtraxions. Back at the car by 1pm.
GPX Downloads: https://caltopo.com/m/F8F4H |
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Dim 25 Sept 2022 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]()
1
14
130m
2
13
60m
| 190m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Been excited about this climb for quite a while! Stunning. Will showed me simul-climbing with micro traxions then simul-rappelling. Finished before midday, 7h7m car to car
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Jeu 21 Juil 2022 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Will calling yim out on the uq mountain chat for filming a vlog at the top of p4 instead of putting me on belay and holding the train up was a highlight (or a frustrating light at the time). Another highlight (stupid light) was borrowing yims sunscreen at the top of the route while lying down, then applying and then trying to throw it back and throwing it off the cliff! Landed on a ledge 7m down so yim downclimbed on hip belay to get it. Greg placed 2 boat anchors apparently (tri cams the size of my head attached to the beaner by a yellow seat belt). Would have been a mish to lug them to the crag but the harness aesthetic was beyond incredible.
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Mer 20 Juil 2022 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Wish I had more to say about such a mega route, but honestly the day was perfect. Clear sky, supreme conditions, great climbing. Soloed the first few pitches to speed things up, link p5/6 but again mostly soloing on easy ground. The descent was an adventure in itself down the slippery glacier. Mega first day in the bungles.
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Lun 18 Juil 2022 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Awesome day out, getting dive bombed by 3 huge wedge tailed eagles while building an anchor was memorable. No evidence of a nest nearby, they kept gliding around the rest of the day but seemed friendly. The 14 was the money pitch with a sudden helping of exposure and green glacier is a unique descent.
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14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]()
3
8
30m
grimpé en tête par
Will
5
13
20m
grimpé en tête par
Will
6
12
20m
grimpé en tête par
Will
| 190m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Sam 16 Juil 2022 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Climbing with eagles. left my shoes at camp so did it in approach shoes. Great climbing on pitch 4.
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Lun 13 Juin 2022 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Fabulous climbing and awesome day out. Started at 7:30 and got back to balor hut by 3pm, plenty of daylight left. Start of the descent was wet and slippery so we used some of the few questionable rap points. Good placements available including on P4. Used a single 70m rope, bring extra slings to avoid drag if linking multiple pitches. Thanks to Nathan Murdoch for climbing this one again for me
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Dim 29 Mai 2022 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
15 14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
A very bold adventure to lead for the grade. Classic line up Crater Bluff. Good rock for the first 3.5 pitches Lots of sketchy loose blocks half way up the 4th pitch. Climb with care. Pro was questionable in parts. Big day out, with the adventure not over at the top of the climb. Definitely reference the Sydney Climbing Club Guide for the descent beta, it was very helpful when descending in the dark, 70m rope came in very handy.
If anyone is climbing something climbers left of the rib, I dropped a set of big nuts off pitch 4. Luckily I only used medium and small nuts after that! 8.5 hrs of climbing to the summit. 2 hrs to descend in the dark, utilising the various Rap Anchors as it was pretty slippery.
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Mar 24 Mai 2022 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]()
5
13
20m
grimpé en tête par
Sammy
7
11
20m
grimpé en tête par
Sammy
| 190m | |||||
Sam 21 Mai 2022 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
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1
6
30m
2
8
30m
3
8
30m
4
14
40m
6
12
20m
| 190m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Mer 18 Mai 2022 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
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1
6
30m
2
8
30m
3
8
30m
7
11
20m
| 190m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Mar 26 Avr 2022 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
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1
6
30m
2
8
30m
3
8
30m
4
14
40m
7
11
20m
| 190m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Solo'ed the first 3 pitches.. Made our part of 3 very quick! Green glacier is worth a visit.
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Dim 24 Avr 2022 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Led all pitches.
Approach: left Balor at 0645. I'm very glad I saved GPS markers for a few key landmarks on the way in (see below); they were invaluable in the dark on the way back. We lost the trail 10m after the last creek crossing but had bush-bashed/scrambled our way "trending high" to the base of the rib by 0750. I led the first "3 pitches" without linking (and maybe even adding an extra one in) since the pro seemed to wander a bit and I had a very low tolerance for rope drag. I pretty much threw an anchor in whenever I found 3 good pieces of pro together. We lost a bit of time with a stuck cam too. We had lunch with a lizard on the ledge below the "horn", at 1145. This was when we realized we'd run out of water. While we meant to have 4.5L for the climb, it seems I underestimated a few "sips" from the bladder I took on a previous day in trip. For me it felt like the challenge of P4 was overcoming the psychological factor of questionable pro (the loose horn, rusted pitons, small gear) rather than the moves themselves. The crux move is rewarded with a hand jam / bomber cam though, and leads directly back to the rib. I found an overlap near the end of the pitch to be a bit cruxy too. From the next large ledge (start of P5?) I traversed right (over the gully) rather than going up a blankish orange bulge. Did I miss a piton or something around on the N face? Got back onto the rib quickly and with manageable drag. The last few pitches were easy moves, though the pro is mostly gaps between blocks of choss. By this time I was very thirsty and my muscles were cramping a lot. We summited at 1545, slid our way down Green Glacier (where I contemplated taking some of the water, but it looked a bit dirty), and switched to head-torches just after finishing the last rap (losing some time due to the ropes getting knotted on the way down). We lost the trail once we stepped down from the terrace, and bush-bashed by compass until we found the Baronne Gully creek and its log crossing (-31.337271, 148.99404) again. From here the trail along the bank was mostly easy to follow to the next creek crossing, (-31.335806, 148.992096), where we lost it again but could navigate by GPS to the old billy camp (-31.3354, 148.991705), and from there straight to Dagda Gap and back to Balor Hut via the Dagda Shortcut. We got back to Balor at 1945. Gear: double 60m ropes, Walnuts 1–6, cams #.2–3 with doubles #.3–2. There were pitches I used almost everything (bearing in mind that 3-piece anchors eat gear particularly around #.5), and there were generally more opportunities for small gear on every pitch. Almost every piece is worth extending with a single-length sling unless you enjoy rope drag. Shorter ropes would have been better (e.g. double 40m); I burned a lot of bicep energy hauling long ropes up short pitches, and it seems hard to link pitches without either adding run-outs above ledges or more rope drag. The line feels classic and attracted an audience from the Grand High Tops lookout. The actual climbing wasn't too interesting other than P4, and the crux felt a bit spicy for the grade (on lead at least). A memorable tradventure that got tiring without water! |
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Mar 19 Avr 2022 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
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1
6
30m
2
8
30m
3
8
30m
4
14
40m
5
13
20m
6
12
20m
7
11
20m
| 190m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
What a stellar route! Soloed the first 90m which saved a bunch of time with 3 people. Followed with some mega climbing after that, absolutely unreal views from the top. Topped out at midday.
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Lun 18 Avr 2022 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
first climb of the trip. really cool climbing up the rib, decent rock. cruised up in 4 hours i think, as we soloed the first 90m as its real easy.
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Mar 22 Mars 2022 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Early morning trip up before the sun got on the wall. Alex linked the first few pitches
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14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Linked the first 2 pitches together, rope drag got really bad on the 3rd one...
Nice exposure after the little horn on the 4th pitch, but with some good holds...
Ended up abseiling down on 30 m ropes, which took some extra faffing around...
Overall an amazing climb
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Sam 19 Mars 2022 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
I seconded this 2 years ago with Mel and Zuni Dierk so this was a bit of a benchmarking moment for me.
While the rest of the gang crusaded up Lieder (eventually getting lost onto Lieben?), I decided to introduce Adam Cufer to Bungles climbing by taking him up the Ultra Classic of the area. When the walk-in wasn't as harrowing as I remembered it being, I was already optimistic about the day. Pitch 1 was done further to the right so that we were closer to friends in the event of an epic fail so we ended up skipping the real P1 basically. Friends vanished soon enough into their gully. Pitch 2 was chill enough that I bothered to set up a GoPro time lapse on a random rock somewhere. Pitch 3 had that exciting little step across. 2 years ago I caved and crawled, but this time I had the cojones to Walk Like a Man. The rest of it was still a bit exciting though. Definitely the spooky one. Pitch 4 was chill. So chill I can't even remember it. Pitch 5 was our last because I linked the last 2 since we were LATE and I wanted to catch up to the rest of the party. The descent was probably as sketchy as the climb since we downclimbed most of the raps for speed. The others spent the day in the shade but Adam and I roasted along the rib. Bring sunscreen and water. Cloud cover is a blessing in March. All in all, I'm rather pleased by my progress over the last 2 years. Honestly never thought I'd get to the point of leading this. Very encouraging. |
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14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Mars 2022 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
the descent is nearly as much fun as the climb
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Sam 19 Fév 2022 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
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1
6
30
2
8
30
3
8
30
4
14
40
5
13
20
6
12
20
7
11
20
| 190m | |||||
Mar 11 Jan 2022 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Great experience! definitely worth the drive, the approach, and the descent. It’s a massive day so please bring plenty of nutrition and water! My partner and I both had 2L camelbacks, some cliff bars & gels and even that was a bit of a stretch at the end of the day, would recommend using radios as well!
I recommend staying at Barlor Hut instead of Camp Pincham, it’s a massive hike from the car park to Crater Bluff and we where absolutely battered by the time we walked back to the hut, would have sucked to have walked even further! It’s also an awesome camp spot with heaps of cool climbing books and guides of the routes at the bungles. SOME USEFUL BETA: - Pitch 4 “The Horn” has poor pro and is quite exposed, but it was relatively straight forward climbing so don’t freak out! - Many people struggle finding the final abseil point (including myself) and end up travelling down “The Tourist Route” but this will take up even more time on an already big day, my advice for the descent top to bottom is… 1-Travel down the green gully (you may need to do a number of tree belays if wet or if your unsure) 2-The first set of chains are on top of a waterfall, abseil down these chains and move to a vegetated area 3-Once the vegetation clears you will end up on a block, the chains are hidden 6 metres away from the main wall of the mountain at the point of that block hidden behind a boulder. 4-A good way to know if you have gone too far and missed it is when you come to a section that looks way to sketchy to scramble across, retrace your steps about 10m back. 5-Once you finish that abseil it’s happy days from there on out back to camp! Happy Sending, Jack |
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Lun 27 Déc 2021 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | |||||
Another successful outing to the Bungles to avoid rain in the Blueys. As chossy as expected, and much nicer than expected! Beautiful views as always and comfortable climb (although the grade 14 pitch seems a bit sandbagged, maybe a hold or two broke off??). We used mainly nuts and small cams. The descent via Green Gully is again chossy but very enjoyable.
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14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
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1
6
30m
2
8
30m
3
8
30m
4
14
40m
5
13
20m
6
12
20m
7
11
20m
| 190m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Mar 21 Déc 2021 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Second time up this classic! Brendan lead 2 pitches to the bottom of the crux pitch, and the crux pitch. I lead from there to the top in 3 pitches.
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Sam 6 Nov. 2021 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
A beauty of an adventure up a dinosaur. Didn't sling the horn, as it felt a little loose, leading into the crux pitch and traversed way to low and far left to a .2 horizontal which made for an interesting time getting back up to that first piton! The descent is just as good as the climb. 13hrs car to car from Pincham car park.
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Mer 1 Sept 2021 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | |||||
Sam 26 Juin 2021 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Such a cool route, with tons of exposure and much more interesting moves than you usually find at this grade. Well worth it.
Descent down the green gully was extremely wet and unpleasant however, we had to abseil the whole gully and the ropes came back a mess. No rain in the last 4 days, so maybe it stays wet a while, is there an alternative way down?
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Mar 15 Juin 2021 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | |||||
Lun 7 Juin 2021 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Total class from start to finish. The descent is just as exciting as the climb!
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14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | |||||
Dim 23 Mai 2021 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | |||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★ Bon | ||||
Crikey wild and chossy probably more of a grade 12 then 14 but then again your climbing stacked choss. The climbing doesn't deserve star but the adventure as a hole is classic!
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Sam 22 Mai 2021 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
No choss here!
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Dim 25 Avr 2021 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | |||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
This line is all position, position, position. Rambly sort of climbing. Decent gear. 7.5 hours Balor Hut return.
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Sam 24 Avr 2021 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | |||||
Mer 14 Avr 2021 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Absolutely amazing line. Stomach turning exposure on small belay ledges. Lead the first pitch, built my first Trad anchor. 4th pitch and onwards were phenomenal climbing.
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Lun 12 Avr 2021 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Epic line. And an awesome start to the week. First three pitches don't really give you much of a warm up for the arms though. Traversed out into the crux pitch and just flashed pumped and really wanting some gear. A quick confidence chalk and commit to moving up and the protection arrives. This pitch has tremendous drag, however I think I ran it a little further just so there would be no drag on the next one. Which was a good call because I found the fifth pitch harder on the head game. A lot more spacing between gear. One pitch has a lot of lose rock but you can manoeuvre around it. Made for a long day leading every pitch. But enjoyed it all and we topped just on sunset. We made good time on the decent. However I'd recommend having a little more time to enjoy the green glacier zone.
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Sam 10 Avr 2021 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Ven 9 Avr 2021 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Rope soloed the route. It was a scorching day, plus the rope got stuck at one point so i had to climb that pitch 3 times. Spent 7.5 hours on the route
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Sam 3 Avr 2021 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Epic intro to trad lad lyf
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14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Ven 2 Avr 2021 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | |||||
Lun 29 Mars 2021 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | |||||
What a feature! A bit wet and cold but it's a good ramble up reasonable rock with good gear throughout where you want it.
Worth the hike out there and the soggy scramble off the back. |
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Jeu 25 Mars 2021 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | |||||
2021 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Mar 29 Déc 2020 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 140m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Simul P1+P2 together. Simul 1+2+3 looks totally doable with a large enough rack. Rapped the route due to an approaching storm. Help yourself to our bail gear!
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Dim 20 Déc 2020 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Absolutely amazing climb. Last time I climbed this was 17 years ago. This time I had the opportunity to lead every pitch for an Alzheimer onsight. I certainly forgot the bungles adventure feeling, back at car 10pm.
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Sam 19 Déc 2020 - Warrumbungles | |||||||
Crater Bluff | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Cornerstone Rib
![]() | 190m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
An awesome climb and an awesome day (and night) out! Chris lead all the pitches, but it was enough adventure for me just seconding (especially pitch 4), as it was my first trad multi and first climb in the bungles. The descent was quite fun too. Will definitely be back to have some more adventures here, maybe at a cooler time of year though.
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