Ascensions dans Wörgl-Kufstein contenant Bêta

Ziemlich harter Zug zwischen 2 und 3 Exe für den Grad. Dann Ausdauer und oben nochmal nen rausschmeißer an einem Sloper bei warmen Temperaturen.

Schöne aufwärmroute, aber leider sehr staubig!

Without rocks on the right side bottom. Than much harder entry boulder compared to using them. I believe the grade given to this route, only fits in case done like this. Strong fingers required. After hard entry relaxing until top.

2nd try without bottom right rocks

Sehr schöne Tour. Schwierige Stelle beim 3. -4. Haken. Dann wieder einfacher

Nur Einstieg dann auf Via Agela gewechselt

1st try without bottom right rocks

Climbed it for warm-up today. This time a proper redpoint with putting in all the quickdraws. At the anchor, I was extremely pumped and had to wait two minutes for my arms to relax.

The conditions were much better than expected - in fact, maybe the best conditions we've had in Sparchen. Despite the rain on the previous days, most of the routes were dry, humidity wasn't too high and the temperature was perfect for climbing. I could hold the small polished crimps better than last time and climbed the crux from the ground on my third try. I had underestimated the upper part a bit and was extremely pumped by the time I reached the anchor, but I did not fall, luckily.

Poliert

Finally sent it.

Very nice route on small crimps, apart from the section from the third to fourth bolt not even that hard. I onsighted the part up to the third bolt immediately below the crux, could not climb the crux, and then climbed the upper part with one rest. On my second try, it was hotter, my skin was thinner and I just slipped off the holds, so I decided to stop trying. The first bolt is very high, though. The climbing was also not so hard, but it definitely felt a bit uncomfortable.

Einstieg über Tollwood

Einstieg über Tollwood

Viel Seilreibung. Ablassen und Exen aushängen etwas komisch

Sehr abgeschmiert

Only to the anchor at the ledge because climber's were on the routes to the left that are crossed by this route.

Very nice route, but unfortunately very polished.

Beim Bauch gehangen

Nur Ausstieg

Nur Einstieg oben links ausgewichen

Should have climbed it while putting up the quickdraws (2 were already in place). All moves up to the last one were very solid, but then I hesitated a bit too much as I wasn't sure where exactly the good part of the edge was, so I fell again at the last move. In my second attempt, my fingers became colder and colder and I could barely hold the good sideclings in the upper part anymore. I fell again at the last move, but this time there was no chance at all of sticking it.

First hard move is already at the first bolt when you only have very few footholds, and the available footholds are very polished. I couldn't do the move to the good sidecling on the right. It's easier afterwards up to the third bolt. The crux is probably from third to fourth bolt, where the good footholds are too low to be useful and where the handholds are not so good either. I also skipped the move to the good hold at the fourth draw which is quite far up to the left. From then one, it gets easier, even though I skipped another move to the fifth bolt. From fifth bolt to the top, the holds are larger and more incut.

Nur Ausstieg, Zustieg über Cinderella

Zusammen gehängt mit Shebel Sheik / Ausstieg Gedenkweg

2x versuch nochmal beim Bauch gehangen

Bauch Ausstieg diesmal gehangen

Ausstieg über Gedenkweg/ Einstieg über Cinderella

Traumroute

Starttritte speckig

Sanduhr jug kurz vorm Ende

An der Schlüsselstelle etwas weiterer Hackenabstand. Deswegen Expresschlingen vorgehängt diesmal nicht verlängert.

An der Schlüsselstelle etwas weiterer Hackenabstand. Deswegen Expresschlingen vorgehängt und verlängert.

die ersten 3 Exen habe ich mich ziemlich stark über die nassen Stellen gezogen. Ich weiß nicht, ob ich das trocken klettern könnte. Aber super schön. Über der 4ten Exe dann höchstens 8 und drüber 8- aber sau schön

Super schöne Züge, eher dynamisch und weit aber nicht zu schwer. Der Einstieg war super nass, da habe ich mich an der Exe hochgezogen. An der 5ten Exe mit links an die link auffällige Leiste ziehen und dann weit hoch verlänger an das was so aussieht wie ein seitgriff. Der ist überraschend gut. An der vorletzten Exe dann weit rechts halten da sind gute Seitgriffe .

I skipped most of the lower (harder) part because this part of the wall was in the shade and my fingers were quite cold. Quite a few holds were also wet. The upper part, however, was in the sun and completely dry, and very nice to climb (but a bit easier, maybe 7a or 6c).

One of the few routes which were dry enough to climb today, but some holds were still wet. Slipped off a wet hold with no feeling in the cold fingers in the lower part. However, the upper part is really not so easy to read and I had almost completely forgotten what I did last time, so I'm not sure if I could have climbed it first try today.

Zu kalt heute. Aber zumindest trocken trotz Schmelzwasser.

Did all the moves, but I have to spend a little more time on the beta before being able to send this. Crux section for three draws with open holds in an overhanging wall.

Even this part of the wall can get wet, after all. Did the moves up to to the third draw, the route was wet starting from just before the fourth draw. Since the part from the third to the fourth draw also seems to be quite hard, judging from how others climbed it, I decided to stop trying there.

Immer wieder schön.