Affichant les 34 voies total.
Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Popularité | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
North face | |||||
5° VIIa E2 D3 | ★★★ Secundo Costa Neto
A route from the "North face"[1613256762] that finishes up the "West face" and that is usually used as a continuation of the popular "Via dos Italianos" route on the West face. This route begins in a squeeze chimney, then moves out onto the north west face of 'Pao de Acucar'. It is bolt protected, but is far from a sport climbing. The style is very characteristic of the area and it is a great route. After reaching the shoulder between Pao de Acucar and Urca, head towards the north face of the formation. Secundo starts in the obvious dihedral/chimney. Take 15 draws including several long runners. FA: Patrick White, Laercio Martins, George White & Tadeusz Hollup, 1957 | 250m, 10 | |||
6° VIIc AID:A1 | ★★★ Waldemar Guimaraes
This route is a chimney and is absolutely beautiful. Very characteristic of Rio and of Pao de Acucar. It is a long route, but can be done in a few hours if you are climbing well. Due to the wandering nature of the route it is best to have a topo/guidebook. After making your way through the forest look for a couple of bolts leading to a hand crack and then a huge face above. Take 16 draws and slings. Équip.: Waldemar Guimaraes, Maurício Mota & Mário Arnaud, 1983 | 300m, 10 | |||
6° VIIa E2 D1 | Caixinha de Surpresa
Équip.: Alexandre Portela & Luis Cláudio "Pita", 1988 | 130m | |||
6° VIIb E2 D1 | Noites de Brigadeiro
Équip.: Luis Cláudio "Pita", Silvio Neto & Tadeu Scaf, 2004 | 110m | |||
6° VIIa E2 D4 AID:A1 | ★★★ Ibis
Équip.: Felix Kuen, Werner Hain, Otto Lorenz & Hannes Gasser, 1972 | 360m, 10 | |||
6° VIsup E3 D5 AID:A3 | Contra Pino
Équip.: Alexandre Portela, Luis Makoto, Fernando Barberá & Sergio Tartari, 1988 | 450m | |||
IVsup E2 | Variante Por Favor Não Grampeie
Variante de: Waldo Équip.: Flavio Daflon & Delson de Queiroz, 1993 | 25m | |||
5° VIsup E3 D3 | Argus
Équip.: Giovanni Tartari, Jorge Gomes & Sergio Tartari, 1981 | 530m | |||
V E2 | Diedro Nada Contra
Équip.: Nilton Campos & André Kühner, 2005 | 20m | |||
West face | |||||
5° VIsup D2 | ★★★ Cavalo Louco
Mostly done on bolts, but cams and stoppers needed for the first 20m of the first pitch (small to medium cams or medium to large stoppers). It finishes at the anchors of the 5th pitch of "Secundo Costa Neto" and from there you can reach the summit in another 3 pitches (making it a total of 270m). You can combine pitches 2, 3 and 4 into 2 pitches. The start is at a crack a just left of the start of the famous "Via dos Italianos" route.
One of the nicest climbs on the Sugar Loaf! Some fairly long run-outs between bolts by modern standards. Take long slings to help with rope drag. Some of the belays on this route are off one bolt. Équip.: Juarez Fogaça, André Sant'Anna & Sérgio Poyares, 1984 | 130m, 4 | |||
6° VIIb E2 D2 | Cisco Kid
Nice and a bit more exposed/run out than the "Via dos Italianos" or "Cavalo Louco".
Take 10 quickdraws. End of 2nd pitch is on the same ledge as CEPI. Équip.: Luis Cláudio "Pita", Marco Vidon, Sérgio Tartari & Marcelo Braga, 1988 | 230m, 6 | |||
6° VIIc E3 D3 AID:A1 | O Pão que o Diabo Amassou
Ends at the last pitch of "Cisco Kid". Need to take cliff hangers, small to medium stoppers and some micro-friends. Équip.: Ralf Côrtes, Rafael & "Ducha", 2000 | 200m, 6 | |||
6° VIIa E2 D2 | ★★★ Pássaros de Fogo
To get to the base, you'll need to go down about 50m from the start of "CEPI" following a track along the margins of the mountain.
Take 12 quickdraws. There's a variant coming out of the 2nd anchors - the original goes right and finishes on a ledge; the variant goes kind of straight up, missing the ledge and heading straight to the next set of anchors. If you choose to take the variant, make sure your rope is long enough (60m). The variant is usually taken when the original is a bit wet because of the bushy ledge. The variant is a bit harder as well, rating VIsup Brazilian grading. Équip.: Sérgio Tartari, André Ilha & David Austin, 1983 | 190m, 5 | |||
South face Coringa Sector | |||||
4° V | Ursinho de Pelúcia
Take 10 quickdraws. | 110m, 3 | |||
South face Totem West Face of Totem | |||||
3° IIIsup | ★★★ Chaminé Stop
The chimney that runs up the left side of the Totem formation on the south face of Pao de Acucar. Route is bolted but only sparsely (no more than 3 to 4 bolts per pitch). Sometimes hard to see/find them, so good route finding skills are necessary, although it's mostly straight forward. At 3rd belay station make sure to go right from the ledge/tree. To the left is a variant graded at 5o A1 in the Brazilian grade system.
FA: Rolf Vegelle, Silvio Mendes & Guido Vegelle, 1944 | 280m, 7, 23 | |||
7° VIIc | Limiar da Loucura
Starts from Largatão, crossing left to reach the west face of the Toten. Take a full rack of cams and stoppers. | 100m | |||
VIIc | As Lacas Também Amam
Mixed climb (trad on 2nd pitch). Continues from "Limiar das Lacas" going right, left and then right again to reach the latter part of "Limiar da Loucura". Take small to medium cams and stoppers. | 50m, 2 | |||
South face Totem South Face of Totem | |||||
6° VIIc AID:A1 | ★★★ Lagartão
One of the most classic routes in Rio de Janeiro. Extremely varied 300m mixed climb with trad and bolts. A hard face, hard crack, and fun chimney climbing.
Take large pieces of gear and medium cams - number 1 camalot to a number 4 for the first pitch; the rest of the route is bolted, but run out. FA: Luis Belivacqua, Alex Pereira, George White & Jean Pierre, 1972 | 280m, 9 | |||
V | Variant Dança das Cabeças
Needs medium cams. Starts from start of second pitch of "Lagartão", the thin crack to the right of belay. | 10m | |||
VIsup | Tico-tico Nervoso
Full rack of cams and medium stoppers. Starts half way through "Variant Dança das Cabeças" taking it further to the right, with a horizontal section linking it to "Urubu à Vista". | 60m | |||
VIIc | Variant Senhor dos Anéis
Needs micro-friends, cams from 1/2 to 2 1/2, and medium to large stoppers. Starts after "Variant Dança das Cabeças", taking the crack to the left of the main route. | 15m | |||
VIIa | Variant Gandalf
Full rack of cams. To the left of "Variant Senhor dos Anéis". | 10m | |||
South face Totem East Face of Totem | |||||
VIIb | ★★ Urubu à Vista
Mixed. Take full rack of cams and stoppers. Starts to the right of the base of "Lagartão".
| 65m, 2 | |||
IXa | Cocoricó
Shares first 3 bolts with "Urubu à Vista" and then goes right and up to join "Urubu à Vista" again at the end of first pitch. | 30m | |||
6° VIIb | Xeque-mate
Starts on the ledge where the aid climbing of Lagartão begins and finishes linking with Chaminé Gallotti. First and last pitches all on trad. Take a full rack of cams and stoppers. Abseiling is only possible using 2 ropes.
| 170m, 6 | |||
IV | ★★★ Variant Kid
Connects "Chaminé Gallotti" and "Lagartão". Starts from half way of the 3rd pitch of "Chaminé Gallotti", after the first chimney section, moving on the ledge all the way to the left and taking the corner crack up till you reach the ledge at the end of 2nd pitch of "Lagartão". Take medium stoppers and cams. | 30m | |||
VI | Variant Esqueceram de Mim
Needs a couple of #3 and #1 cams and stoppers. Starts at the start of "Variant Kid" and goes towards "Xeque-mate". | 30m | |||
VIIa | Variant Faro Fino
All trad. 1 set of cams. Starts about 4m before the final ledge of "Variant Kid" and goes towards the ledge of "Lagartão". | 30m | |||
VIIb | Variant Olho Vivo
Needs a couple of big pieces (#4 cams) and some smaller ones (1 and 1.5). Starts one bolt before the first ledge in "Chaminé Gallotti" and goes to "Variant Faro Fino". | 20m | |||
5° VI | ★★★ Chaminé Gallotti
280m trad route. It's worth taking 2 ropes in case an abseil is needed. Take at least one large cam (#4) and some large stoppers.
| 250m, 7 | |||
South face Tetos | |||||
VIIa E2 | Não Sou Boneco de Woodoo
| 12m | |||
East face | |||||
2° IV E2 D2 | Chaminé Pão de Açúcar
Équip.: André Ilha, Antônio Carlos Magalhães & Paulo Ferreira "Bruxo", 1978 | 220m | |||
Contraforte | |||||
VIIa E2/3 | Recruta Zero
| 25m | |||
4° VIsup E2 | Sargento Pincel
| 45m |
Affichant les 34 voies total.