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Broken Pot Rock Guide

  • Contexte de la cotation : US
  • Photos : 1
  • Ascensions : 7

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Joe Alexander

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Table of contents

1. Broken Pot Rock

Summary:
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Saison

13 routes in Cliff

Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et autres styles

Lat / Long: 11.919593, 104.929661

description

The highest of the three main rocks, furthest East. Tall difficult slab climbs line the southern face.

Limitations de l'accès

Please be polite to the locals. Say hello, ask if you can park, tell them you are going up to climb, say goodbye when you leave. They’ll be very helpful and even keep an eye on your car/moto, if you are polite.

hérité de Chealea

approche

Follow the dirt road from No More Monks until you are directly south of the highest rock (Broken Pot), scramble through the trees to find the base of the climbs as well as a narrow path between the main rock and a small bouler to its east, follow that path to access the top.

historique

Phnom Bak Peang is the name of the whole rock feature, it directly tansaltes to "Broken Pot Mountain". A Peang is a type of stone water pot used to collect rainwater.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Holes

This route is somewhat covered in vines, but is a good route on this face of Broken Pot Rock. No anchors or bolts. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

5.10b Trad
2 Creeper

Start just to the right of the line of bolts for Martha's Vineyard. Continue stragiht up from there following the light coloured rock. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

5.9 Trad
3 Vines / Martha's Vineyard

So called, because this route used to be covered in vines. Follow the line of 5 bolts to the anchor. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

5.9 Sportive 5
4 Crimper

A classic 5.10! The line is pretty self explanatory, follow the 7 bolts to the anchor. You may just want to pull the rope and repeat this route once you did it the first time. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

5.10b Sportive 7
5 សួស្តី / Suo-sdey

The name literally means "good day" or "greetings" and named this because this climb is usually one of the first routes climbed when visiting the area for the first time. Climb the slab following the 3 drawn-out bolts to the anchor (23m) gradually traversing right. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

5.7 Sportive 23m, 3
6 បាយសាច់ជ្រូក / Bai SachJrook

Start on or near the left corner of the slab. Watch out for loose rock on this long slab climb. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia" [Name means "rice + pork", route name originally spelt "Buy-Siak-J-Rok"] [Update: the route has been bolted, unsure about bolt location or number]

5.7 Sportive 24m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 Morning Glory

A popular route for beginners and seasoned climbers alike. Climb following the 6 bolts and gradually traversing left. Leave a directional on the 3rd or 4th bolt for safe top-roping. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia

5.9 Sportive 6
8 Glory in the Morning

Follow the old bolts (without hangers) straight up to the "Morning Glory" anchor. Top rope this route from "Morning Glory" anchors. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

5.10a Moulinette
9 Terminator's Toothbrush

A tight start between the two rocks. Stick clip the first bolt. Sustained difficulty makes this one a must climb. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

5.11b Sportive 5
10 Rats Hole / Rob's Rat Hole

Located behind the tree. Anchor from the top Named "Rob's Rat Hole" because a small rat calls the hole midway up the climb it's home. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

5.9 Moulinette
11 Around the Corner

A short climb with a difficult to reach anchor at the top. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

5.10a Trad
12 Practice

This anchor was placed here to teach beginners rapelling and proper rock climbing technique. It's good for practice if you have some beginners along. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

5.1 Moulinette
13 Top Knot

Anchors on top of the rock for setting anchors, you may use it to set "Morning Glory" "Crimper" and "សួស្តី" all of which have exposed and/or hard to reach anchors. This anchor is NOT suitable for climbing or rappelling.

5.4 Via ferrata

Top Knot

There are two glue in bolts in the middle of the bald top of the rock, helpful to set anchors for "Morning Glory" "Crimper" and "សួស្តី" all of which have exposed and/or hard to reach anchors. This anchor is NOT suitable for climbing or rappelling.

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
5.1 Practice Moulinette
5.4 Top Knot Via ferrata
5.7 បាយសាច់ជ្រូក Sportive 24m
សួស្តី Sportive 23m, 3
5.9 Creeper Trad
Morning Glory Sportive 6
Rats Hole Moulinette
Vines Sportive 5
5.10a Around the Corner Trad
Glory in the Morning Moulinette
5.10b Crimper Sportive 7
Holes Trad
5.11b Terminator's Toothbrush Sportive 5
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