Ascensions dans Oberes Pegnitz- und Flembachtal comme Onsight

The easiest route here, but probably not a good #warmup for most people. Decided to do just that, anyway. Chossy start. I climbed in slightly from the left. Just below the crack, there's a decent placement for a #1. Great rock quality as soon as you're in the crack. Eats protection like mad, too, so you can fully concentrate on the awkward moves. Bomber jams, but far in the back of the crack, so your movement is limited quite a bit. There's an anchor below the vegetation.

Fantastic (endurance?) wall climbing on perfect rock structures. Zaphod is supposed to be even better, now I'm curious! High first bolt, best stay a little to the left of it (positive crimps). Reaching the second is safe although it looks scary. Tricky moves lead to a big, diagonal sidepull rail. The hueco at the end looks inviting at first, but turns out to be a sloper. I used the slopy crimp on the right side, though, to get into the next section, which felt like the hardest move of the route. Two moves on and you're juggling big flakes again. Standing up on the flakes into a sensible rest, the style changes again to pockets. The finish can still throw you off, but it's not too bad, go for the holds on the arête!

Close one! Set out for a reachy move above the second bolt and had just reached the lip of the jug with my fingertips when I felt my foot slip off the hold and I started barndooring. Luckily, the jug was as good as I had hoped it to be and I could stabilize myself pretty quickly. Good climbing on mediocre pockets.

The only easy way up. Short chimney, not harder than 2.

Varied climb, looks harder and not as interesting as it is. Nice hand/fist crack dihedral to the roof, traverse on small holds, an interesting move onto the little slab. A short dihedral gets you up into a nicely exposed position on a ledge, before a short chimney (careful, a few loose and hollow blocks) brings you to the top.

A bit brittle in the lower part, but gets better quickly. Nice little crimps in black rock up top. Someone tickmarked the whole thing to death, though. Brush off your ticks, ladies, lads and others!

Fantastic climb that draws out left from the first bolt of "Südwand" directly into the crack that leads to the big hand crack rooflet. Strenuous from the second bolt up to the roof, then enjoyable traverse, easy up onto the ledge and then either run it out to the anchor or use a big cam (blue Dragon was sufficient). Great position!

Finishes at the funny little groove. Felt easier than the ones on the right.

Also a nice slab with a few slightly sharper crimps.

Nice little balancy slab. #warmup

Slightly harder start, then very easy along sidepulls in the crack and another slightly difficult move to the anchor.

Traverses the obvious little ledge above the roof. Spicy towards the anchor.

Perfect warmup.

Great line, just like the other two here.