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Wisdom Wall

  • Contexte de la cotation : US
  • Ascensions : 3

Saison

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Limit. de l'accès hérité de Fire Lookout Hill

The approach passes through fields of maize. Be cautious as not to step on the ridges and crops.

Voies

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Cotation Voie

Starts at the left end of the crag, beneath a steep curving crack, which is unfortunately loose and explains why the route has only been toproped. It is superb climbing nonetheless.

FA: Peter Garland, 1986

Top-rope only at present, using the same anchor as The Folly. Start directly below the anchor, climbing small and sharp holds following a groove to a large pocket. Then either go right onto the ramp for an easier finish, or go straight up on small holds.

FA: Tom Bates & Hope Heaton, Mars 2017

Re-bolted in 2017

In the middle of the Wisdom Wall. Starts starts up on the ledge. Originally bolted in the 80s. 8 bolts to anchor. A fantastic line up the highest point of the steep face using technical, tension moves which keep getting harder. To top-rope it is necessary to abseil in from small trees on top of the hill (approach up the grassy gully to the right of New Slab).

Abseil rings at anchors.

FA: Peter Garland, 1988

Start about 5m right of The Wisdom, take a prominent corner behind a tree to a crux at ⅔ height. Climb to a ledge.

Anchors reolted in 2017

FA: Peter Garland, 1986

This route can be practiced on top-rope from the anchor of Fat Men in Suits. This is an unremittingly fierce steep face climb on sharp incuts, that tackles the gently overhanging white wall. Start up the thin crack that disappears at half height on an otherwise alarmingly smooth wall; at this point step right then upwards past two bolts (and some hornets on the first ascent) and some testing moves. A short scramble takes you to the belay.

FA: Peter Garland, 1988

Tackles the overhanging face starting two or three metres up the slope from the previous route. Having brawnily overcome the bulge, continue more easily on bigger holds up to the next route, which is joined at half-height.

FA: Peter Garland, 1986

6 bolts to anchor. Start at the right-hand edge of the Wisdom Wall, at the entrance to a gully leading up to New Slab. Thin moves lead up and left, then climb delicately across a grassy groove (grass tufts are in!) and through the bulge above. The anchor is in the recess above.

FA: Peter Garland, 1986

Bonjour !

Ici pour la première fois ?

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