Affichant les 59 ascensions total.
Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | |||
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Sam 3 Fév 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Yacht Club | ||||||
18 | King Of The World - avec Aidan Sarginson, Gareth | 23m, 5 | Dans la moyenne | |||
Draws on. Dodging showers. Probably went a little far left at the crux, but that's what squeeze routes get you.
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Dim 17 Déc 2023 - Tukino | ||||||
Mangatoetoenui Gorge Bowie Rickman Slabs | ||||||
17 | ★★ Heroes - avec Jonno Rau | 35m, 1 | ★ Bon | |||
Think Jonno strayed too far right, missed the spike, exited right instead of left. Getting hot and blowy, time to leave. Keen to return and lead it.
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17 | ★★★ Potions Master - avec Jonno Rau | 35m, 6 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Nice lead from Jonno. Great route, reminiscent of Arapiles watchtower slabbing. Left the anchor in place for convenience.
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Sam 16 Déc 2023 - Tukino | ||||||
Mangatoetoenui Gorge Rehab Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ Sweet Sixteen - avec Jonno Rau | 20m, 4 | Dans la moyenne | |||
Trickyish start. Didn't float my boat.
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15 | ★★ Resolution - avec Jonno Rau | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Really pleasant route, good gear. Walked 30km to get here.
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Dim 16 Juil 2023 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Bumbly's Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★ El Rayo-X - avec Jonno Rau | 20m, 4 | ||||
Surprised myself a bit by sailing up it without much thought. Lead might be different.
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Dim 5 Mars 2023 - Waipari | ||||||
Bete Noire Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ The Exerstential Purple Thunderbolt - avec Jonno Rau | 18m, 6 | ★ Bon | |||
Draws on. Straight up to first bolt, nice right hand jams around midway, then head left.
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Jeu 11 Août 2022 - Waipari | ||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley Da Cave | ||||||
20 | ★★ Zoomers - avec Jonno Rau | 15m, 4 | ★ Bon | |||
Seems I've never been on this. I'd remember. Bastard hard start, very thankful for the stick clipped first bolt. Missed the good holds over the bulge to arrive on the slab surprised I was still on. High left foot rock up and right palm down over the top lip, worked well. Vague sense of accomplishment.
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Sam 7 Mai 2022 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Owairaka Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★★ Forget Me Knot - avec Jonno | 15m, 7 | ★ Bon | |||
Draws on. Grubby but climbable, monkeying around on a juggy overhang. Fun enough but feels a bit gym, and short. Would probably be more pleasing if cleaner. And not 21.
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22 | ★ Haul Or Bawl - avec Amy | 20m, 7 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Draws on to crux after Amy had a go. Spent considerable time getting up, feeling around, getting down, repeat. In the end it was really only one or two tricky moves, and 4 people all found different beta. Mine kept the feet on and the body mostly upright. Quite fun.
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Sam 16 Avr 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
22 | ★★ Safety in Numbers - avec Greg, Gareth | 30m, 14 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Also bloody good. Started in a post-lunch coma but woke up pretty fast. Great slabby moves, fairly sustained at 20+ most of the way. Possibly 3 stars if it was cleaner, though it's clean enough if you trust the occasional lichen smear. Should have led it dammit, will be back for that.
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Ven 15 Avr 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Jungle Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Bandar-log - avec Greg | 18m, 10 | ★ Bon | |||
Draws on. Felt a bit awkward, maybe not the best warmup. One star at most.
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Sam 2 Avr 2022 - Waipari | ||||||
Bete Noire Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ WorkSafe - avec Greg, Bryce | 20m, 8 | ★ Bon | |||
Draws on. In for the 5th ascent, after Greg. Start is probably the crux, once you're on the arete it's plainer sailing and good fun. Nice moves to be had. Also, according to the crag, my 666th unique ascent...
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Sam 27 Nov. 2021 - Waipari | ||||||
The Beer Garden | ||||||
21 | ★ Half a Lager - avec Jonno, Max, Gareth | 10m, 3 | ★ Bon | |||
Draws on. Started a smidge right of the bolts in the shallow scoop, crossed left at break and bulge with a little pocket beta from Jonno. Maybe that's not how it's supposed to go, but pretty soft for 21? 20 at most, maybe even hard 19.
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17 | ★ Behind the Line - avec Jonno, Max, Paolo, Gareth | 15m, 6 | ★ Bon | |||
Draws on. After gorse working bee and in need of shade. Better than it looks.
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Sam 3 Juil 2021 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
18 | ★ Ground Up Ethics - avec Jonno | 14m, 5 | ★ Bon | |||
Sam 3 Juil 2021 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Slab City | ||||||
15 | Unknown 2 - avec Jonno | 20m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Pleasant enough apart from lichen.
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Sam 15 Mai 2021 - Pakeho | ||||||
Main Crag | ||||||
18 | ★★ Not Dark Yet - avec Grant Johnston | 25m, 13 | ★ Bon | |||
Draws on. Pulled straight through the roof rather than left. I think solid 17. Finish might be a bit nervy if pumped.
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Sam 3 Avr 2021 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Sneakin' In The Backdoor - avec Colin, Grant Johnston | 15m, 6 | ★ Bon | |||
Back for a proper go. Bouldery start then delicate moves up to meet Rohan's Little Sister. Think it's probably 18 unless you're supposed to crank straight up over the nose, which would be an eliminate. Adds a very worthwhile few metres.
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Mer 30 Déc 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Yacht Club | ||||||
18 | I’m A Motorboater - avec Grant Johnston, Gareth | 12m, 4 | Dans la moyenne | |||
Draws on. No chance of doing the direct, but sneaking left really feels like cheating.
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Lun 28 Déc 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Secret Garden | ||||||
15 | ★★ Miromiro - avec Gareth | 30m, 13 | ★ Bon | |||
About time I climbed this. Yup it's 15 not 16, and pretty good but fairly straightforward slab climbing. Had a play on the top of Curious Kiwi on the way down, that seems reasonably solid 19.
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Sam 12 Déc 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Yacht Club | ||||||
19 | ★ Sugar Daddy - avec Gareth, Wade | 15m, 6 | ★ Bon | |||
Draws on. Stayed on face. Quite good but points off for retrobolting and squeezing ATGML and AA.
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Sam 12 Déc 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Secret Garden | ||||||
17 | ★★ Samurai Pizza Cats - avec Gareth, Wade | 15m, 9 | ★ Bon | |||
Nowhere near 18.
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Dim 25 Oct. 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Secret Garden | ||||||
20 | ★★ El Tigre Chino - avec Grant Johnston | 20m, 8 | ★ Bon | |||
Draws on. A valiant near miss on the onsight by Grant. Crux is through the first 2-3 bolts, then it's all over.
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Sam 21 Mars 2020 - Sheridan Hills | ||||||
Chunderosa Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★★ Canard - avec Gareth Hall | 25m, 10 | ★★ Excellent | |||
How have I managed to avoid this for 10 years? It's pretty damn good. Looks like you could once keep going after the anchor but bolt on arete has been flattened.
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Sam 29 Fév 2020 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
20 | ★★ Klingons - avec Gareth Hall | 23m, 6 | ★ Bon | |||
A long long belay session while Gareth worked it, so had a fair bit of pocket beta. Felt soft for 20, foot placement starting the crux is crucial.
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Dim 23 Fév 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
18 | ★★ Bi-Curious George - avec Gareth Hall | 32m | ★ Bon | |||
Nice cleaning job Gareth. LH start, good moves on the arete, similar feeling to P1 of After The Sunset. 19 is a bit of a stretch I think, LH is 18. Incoming rain drove us back to camp.
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Jeu 12 Sept 2019 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff Millenium Wall | ||||||
14 | Thirsty Boots - avec Travis | 12m | ★ Bon | |||
Not bad. A bit slimy down the bottom right now so the start is harder than 14, will be an easy clean next summer. Perfect fists for me, take a couple of #4s. The remainder was mostly hexes. Linked into Dog's Breakfast.
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Sam 31 Août 2019 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
18 | ★★ Space, The Final Frontier - avec Gareth | 23m, 7 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Never thought this looked all that good, but it is. Don't get sucked left too early in the scoop, and save some oomph for the final layback in the enticing high dihedral.
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Dim 7 Avr 2019 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
18 | ★ Haul Away - avec Tim Swain | 15m, 5 | Dans la moyenne | |||
The pocket-bingo at the top-out is a bit typically tedious.
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16 | ★★ Strange New Worlds - avec Tim Swain | 23m, 7 | ★ Bon | |||
Probably the pick of the litter today.
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Dim 24 Mars 2019 - Pakeho | ||||||
Main Crag | ||||||
16 | ★ Piglet | 21m, 10 | Dans la moyenne | |||
Done properly this time, through the right end of the roof. Quite fun, but that's the only worthwhile move on it.
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Mer 31 Oct. 2018 - Pakeho | ||||||
Main Crag | ||||||
18 | ★★ Calcium Snow | 23m, 10 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Pretty damn good, keeps you thinking a bit. Seems I read the moves through the middle section better than Phil, found it not too pumpy. Runout above the roof but much easier climbing.
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17 | ★ Hunny on my Paws | 22m, 6 | ★ Bon | |||
Quite good but mossy at bottom. Bring a brush next time ... clipped the anchor and straight into Tiger by the Tail.
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Mer 31 Oct. 2018 - Pakeho | ||||||
The Stone Steps | ||||||
15 | Sitting Duck | 17m, 6 | Dans la moyenne | |||
The huge detached block is a bit worrying. 15R for the belayer.
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17 | ★★ Topless | 16m, 7 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Really good, pumpy through middle.
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15 | ★ Hole Thing | 8m, 3 | ★ Bon | |||
Hey yeah, a jam in a hole, the obvious move...
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16 | Less Work | 6m, 2 | Dans la moyenne | |||
OK, but just a bit short.
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Dim 23 Sept 2018 - Waipari | ||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley The Bits and Opel | ||||||
16 | ★ New Bits | 10m, 3 | Dans la moyenne | |||
Warmup. Best I can say is it's short.
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Dim 9 Sept 2018 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff Millenium Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Dogs Breakfast - avec Wez Wright | 17m, 7 | ★ Bon | |||
Nervy balancy wee number in places, sketchy top out. Maybe we were too far left but the arete was pretty green in the first half.
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Mar 3 Juil 2018 - Maungarei Springs | ||||||
Right Corner Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ Atomic Rooster - avec Grant Johnston | 10m, 2 | ★ Bon | |||
Better overall than Frenz, and the bottom moves are harder especially if you stop to get a high piece in before committing.
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Ven 27 Avr 2018 - Waipari | ||||||
Main Cliff | ||||||
16 | ★ Bonne Anne (Bonne Annee) - avec Grant Johnston, Tim Swain | 20m, 7 | ★★ Excellent | |||
May possibly have done this a long time ago, not sure. Really nice thoughtful slab moves, highly recommended but perhaps not if 16 is your limit.
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Sam 23 Sept 2017 - Maungarei Springs | ||||||
Lakeside Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Sylvie’s Blast Hole - avec Grant Johnston | 11m, 4 | ★ Bon | |||
It's either overgraded or a bit contrived (if you aren't supposed to jam the obvious crack) or both, but quite nice. Would go on gear.
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Dim 17 Sept 2017 - Maungarei Springs | ||||||
Lakeside Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ A Carp Died for This Climb - avec Grant Johnston, Angela Hewlett, Tim Swain | 11m, 4 | ★ Bon | |||
Belayed Grant's onsight without paying sufficient attention, then had a go myself. Quite small holds getting past the second bolt, spent a while going up and down before committing.
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Dim 15 Mai 2016 - Maungarei Springs | ||||||
Lakeside Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ Urban Route 5.5 - avec Angela Hewlett, Grant Johnston | 12m, 5 | ★ Bon | |||
Flows nicely, I like it.
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Jeu 28 Jan 2016 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ The Slot Machine - avec Grant Johnston | 15m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Rather better than it looks. Belayed Grant's onsight first. Hands a bit chewed afterwards but.
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Dim 18 Jan 2015 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | ||||||
14 | ★ Twinkle Twinkle - avec Colin Megson, Angela Hewlett | 20m, 10 | Dans la moyenne | |||
In approach shoes to clean the Stargazer anchor. Might as well have soloed due to the extreme pendulum potential...
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Mer 22 Oct. 2014 - Mt. Eden Quarry | ||||||
Long Side | ||||||
20 | ★ Brain Damage - avec Stephen Bailey | 7m | ★ Bon | |||
Perhaps a bit harder since the jug fell off some years back. Helps to be not too short - watch out on the bitey sharp hold that gets you through the top crux. Gonna be a fairly nervy lead I think.
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Dim 26 Jan 2014 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Outboard Crack - avec shichang | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Really rather good
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Sam 12 Jan 2013 - Bayley Road | ||||||
River Wall | ||||||
17 | Won't Be Long - avec James Mitchell | 12m, 4 | Dans la moyenne | |||
Large drumming flake...
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Sam 28 Juil 2012 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff Millenium Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ Ring Them Bells | 15m, 6 | Dans la moyenne | |||
Balancy to the first bolt.
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Sam 28 Juil 2012 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff Metaphysical Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Honey Bee | 25m | ★ Bon | |||
Balancy start, neato face climbing thereafter. The feature on the upper face resembles a bee if you have good drugs.
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2011 - Maungarei Springs | ||||||
Pump House Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ Sunny Sunday - avec James Mitchell | 10m, 4 | Dans la moyenne | |||
Date speculative. Thought we would check it out, plenty of loose stuff being kicked off the top by feral pukekos.
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2011 - Ti Point | ||||||
The Amphitheatre | ||||||
19 | ★★ C.J.D Arete | 20m, 5 | ||||
Sam 9 Oct. 2010 - Waipari | ||||||
Slug Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ Pyro Pete - avec Grant Johnston | 18m, 7 | Dans la moyenne | |||
Sam 13 Mars 2010 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Flake 7 - avec Grant Johnston | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Interesting and delicate. Was coached through the gear placement before the crux by Matthias, thanks.
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Dim 21 Fév 2010 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | ||||||
14 | ★ Twinkle Twinkle | 20m, 10 | Dans la moyenne | |||
Easy. But none of us were any better than this...
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Sam 20 Fév 2010 - Sheridan Hills | ||||||
Flying Cow Buttress | ||||||
20 | ★★ Pigs In Space - avec Magnus Hammarsal | 15m, 10 | Dans la moyenne | |||
Yup, overgraded. Retrieving Magnus' draws.
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Sam 20 Fév 2010 - Sheridan Hills | ||||||
Chunderosa Buttress | ||||||
15 | ★ Horus - avec Grant Johnston | 20m | Dans la moyenne | |||
A bit grubby
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Affichant les 59 ascensions total.