★★ Teddy Bears' Picnic 21

Start about 35m right of LAST MOON, below a 3m by 2m roof 15m up (as for MOONRAKER).

1. 45m 20 Climb flake to recess between flakes (MOONRAKER takes right flake). Move left and up then traverse left to (delicate) double flakes. Up these to narrow roof, which is turned to gain recess. Climb this, moving right at top.

2. 40m 20 Move 2m left, then climb steeply until able to finger-rail left through top of green patch. Move up and diagonally right to reach a ledge. Climb left facing corner, pull right through roof and stance.

3. 35m 16 Climb up to Grassy Ledge. Walk right.

4. 50m 20 Start a few metres left of pinkish-white amphitheatre, directly below the point where main roof tapers to about 1,5 metres. Climb deviously up orange face to rounded blocky buttress beneath roof. Pull through and move up to base of recess. Climb easily up to left of recess to reach a large ledge on the left.

5. 30m 17 Climb obvious recess directly above previous pitch and continue up to a stance at the base of two cracks (LAST MOON's obvious gully is to the right).

6. 30m 21 Climb the right-leaning right crack (narrow dihedral), and traverse right to a left facing corner crack, which is followed to reach the left end of a ledge (LAST MOON's Bivi Cave to the right).

7. 30m 20 Traverse left to big ledges – awesome!

8. 35m 21 Precious Mettles pitch: Starting near left end of ledge, climb face past 2 bolts, trend right, then up and left to a small ledge. Continue up to next (big) ledge at base of right facing corner.

9. 35m 15 Move left and climb up to ledges. Continue up face to right of a bushy crack and stance on ledge on right (follow your nose on this pitch).

10. 35m 15 Move right across crack, climb up and right to an easy face which is followed right to a large ledge.

11. 45m 15 Climb to the top.

Notes:

1. Pitch 8 (Precious Mettles) was originally bolted on abseil by Mike Cartwright as a direct finish to SOMETHING OF VALUE.

2. The 5th pitch after the grass ledge (the precious mettle pitch) has 2 bolts on it. These very dodgy old ones were replaced with new M10, 100mm stainless steel bolts in October 2005. This is a great, well protected route.

3. Pitch 7 was first climbed by Mike Cartwright before the route was opened.

4. The remainder of the route was opened on-sight, in a day.

5. It is possible to traverse right to LAST MOON from the last part of pitch 4 and from many places on pitch 5, at about grade 18 (depending).

6. SOMETHING OF VALUE joins the big ledge at the end of pitch 7 from directly below and then traverses left.