Voies trad dans Moon Area

Start location as for HALFMOON.

1. 40m 21 Climb up the steep red face immediately left of HALFMOON’s corner/crack, and move out right above the 2nd roof onto a ledge. Climb diagonally left to a stance (stance common with HALFMOON).

2. 40m 18 Climb up to the roof, then traverse left until able to climb straight up steep rock to a ledge on top of a pillar (stance common with HALFMOON).

3. 40m 14 Traverse 5m right then climb straight up to a large ledge. Belay in the cave 5m left of the corner.

4. 40m 19 Pull through on the left-hand side of the cave, and climb up to a ledge. Move left and climb the thin corner, moving out left under roofs to a good ledge.

5. 40m 20 Move up 3m to a rail and traverse left to move up to a small ledge at the left extremity of the roofs above. Move right on the lip for 2m and up a small corner to a large horizontal break. Traverse 20m left to a ledge with a block.

6. 50m 22 Up to a short corner, up this (5m) then traverse 5m left to a thin crack. Up the crack to a long rail. Move left 4m and up the face for 6m to a horizontal break. Up the steep face/crack system to a corner, up to the top of this, moving out right and up to a tree.

7. 45m 16 Past the tree following the obvious line to the top of the pillar.

8. 40m 14 Up the face on the right, then diagonally left to a chimney. Up the chimney to a ledge.

9. 60m Roped scrambling to the top.

Start about 250m right of MOONLIGHT a short distance past a large pile of boulders. A series of corners and ledges slant diagonally up rightward for about 30m. A prominent series of overhangs leads diagonally up leftwards about 33m up.

1. 30m 12 Start up short steep recess then diagonally up right to ledge. Step right and climb up just right of overhanging recess to next ledge. Climb up, via another ledge then a series of vertical cracks to small stance.

2. 30m 14 Traverse left 8m via prominent detached block (appears safe) to recess right of pillar. Climb 3m up thin recess then traverse delicately left around pillar into another recess. Move up left side of recess (loose blocks at start) to just below overhang. Traverse 3m left then up, passing overhang on left to ledge.

3. 23m 16 Climb up 3m and traverse left 7m into base of open recess. Climb up slightly right, to short overhanging section. Climb this to small ledge on right.

4. 30m 14 Traverse left, moving up in a few places and finish traverse along narrow, grass covered ledge. From left of ledge, climb up steep face on slightly unsound rock, move slightly left, into easier angled recess slanting up rightwards and follow this to large ledge.

5. 43m 14 Step up and traverse 8m right to below bulging face. Surmount bulge at easiest point then traverse towards small tree in vegetated recess. Avoiding tree on the left, traverse across recess and climb right hand face which steepens near the top, to stance in easier angled recess above.

6. 17m 7 Climb diagonally right to large grassy ledge. Walk about 85m rightwards to where ledge ends at overhanging vegetated recess.

7. 25m 14 Traverse right across recess and climb up 3m to grassy ledge. Traverse back left into vegetated recess above overhang and climb it to stance on the left.

8. 25m 16 Climb diagonally up left for 12m then straight up to ledge below steep face. From left end of ledge climb up thin face to just below a turf ledge. Step right and continue diagonally up right to ledge.

9. 25m 16 Climb face above, partly via layback crack, to base of overhanging corner and jamming crack (hard). Ascend this and continue to large stance.

10. 14m 7 Traverse right to large tree in lush recess (Jungle Ledge - superb bivvy). About 35m above ledge are two chimneys. The route goes up right hand one.

11. 25m 14 Climb recess behind tree starting left and traversing to the right side 4m up. Continue up to overhang at top of recess and move out delicately around corner into groove in right hand face. Climb up 5m to ledge on right.

12. 30m 16 Climb face diagonally above for 7m. Trend left towards ledge below prominent right hand overhanging chimney. Climb to chimney with difficulty and climb it more easily to ledge below red, recessed face (bivy site).

13. 25m 17 About 8m up face is small tree with a crack to its left. Climb face, starting on the right then traversing left into crack just below tree. Aid on a nut to pass tree on left and continue as far as possible up crack system to awkward resting place in small open book. Aid on piton to the left to cross an undercut face and gain base of prominent chimney. Climb up 8m to ledge.

14. 25m 18 Climb the chimney and continuation cracks to ledge.

15. 25m 16 Climb continuation chimney above.

16. 25m 10 Continue up until able to scramble.

17. 66m 5 With bits of 10, scramble via short unpleasant chimney to summit.

Climbs the pillar to the left of the 50m long roof situated about 70m up, between HALFMOON and HEY JUDE. Start below the pillar at a V in the path between two boulders. Above is an obvious fist crack on the left side of a large flake.

1. 20m 21 Climb the fist crack, move right, and climb the final few metres from the top of the flake to gain a narrow, continuous ledge.

2. 30m 19 Climb up to the base of an obvious V-groove, and climb this to exit right. Traverse right, move up into the base of a stepped corner and climb this to a ledge on the arête on the left.

3. 25m 18 Climb up about 15 metres to the level of a prominent traverse line which is followed left to a stance on the arête (a loose pitch).

4. 50m 20 Climb more or less straight up to large grass ledge. The next pitch starts about 10 metres to the right, from a tree about 6 metres left of a damp corner.

5. 50m 19 Move up steeply and rail right to pull onto a ledge. Follow a left trending dihedral to a ledge, then climb straight up, keeping left, to a high stance.

6. 40m 16 Climb up rightwards to a grassy ledge at the left base of a huge pinnacle. Climb the recess on the left side of the pinnacle to a ledge on top.

7. 30m 21 Step onto the face at the base of obvious left trending crack system. Tricky moves to start lead to recess which is climbed to semi-stance on the left.

8. 20m 21 Climb the left-hand left-leaning crack, moving left at the top to gain a scoop. Continue up leftwards until able to traverse left to a stance.

9. 45m 20 Starting on the left, climb up to a scoop. Continue up the break, through a tree, and climb the right-hand crack through two roofs to reach a good ledge (MOONLIGHT stance). Jam through the apex of the roof to the highest ledge.

10. 40m 19 Climb the right leaning crack, traverse left to the base of a right facing dihedral, and climb this to large ledges.

11. 75m 15 Follow the right-trending ramp on the wall above. Continue to the top.

Between HALFMOON and HEY JUDE, there is a 50m long roof at 70m height. In the middle of the roof are two large flake lines. Below the right-hand one, on a ledge about 10m off the normal ground level, is a pillar with a chimney-sized gap behind it. Start at the base of the right hand side of the pillar.

1. 45m 20. Climb right hand side of pillar. Continue up flake line until first roof is reached. Move left to a break, and continue up to narrow ledge, directly above pillar, and about 8m below main roof.

2. 30m A2. Great Roof Pitch. Thrash through hanging gardens up and left from stance (the swath of clear-cut from FA is likely to have re-grown). Move left at roof, then out along flake. At piton, move left for two moves onto drilled bat hook hole Move up through overlap to reach rail, then right onto ledge with poor peg belay.

3. 40m 16. Move right into corner, then up and left to a grassy ledge, belaying off a tree. Awesome bivy to right of tree on cleared ledge below some low roofs (blackened corner). Next pitch starts from left end of these roofs, as for PROJECT THREE. The Grassy Ledge can be reached by walking right.

4. 30m 20. (As for PROJECT THREE) Pull through initial overhang at chest height, move right, then follow corner to next roof. Move left, then up to stance on small ledge 10m left of peg on HEY JUDE.

5. 35m 20 (As for PROJECT THREE) Clamber up blocks forming right hand side of stance. Follow intermittent crack above, stepping left when holds run out, then right again 2m higher. Continue up to stance on right end of Jungle Ledge.

6. 50m 22A2+. Move up and right from stance, with very technical climbing leading to left-facing corner 15m right of HALFMOON’s chimney. When free climbing becomes untenable, start aiding. Beyond the roof, technically easy but exciting aid leads up and left of overhang, then up again on slabs until a stance can be made just below the right-leaning cracks.

7. 40m 22 (19A1) Step left from the stance to gain the long right-leaning crack. Follow this until the crack splits. The right-hand line becomes a frightening offwidth through a huge roof. Follow the left-hand line around the roof with two points of aid, then right into a gully (as for SCATTERLINGS).

8. 15m 15. Continue up through trees until the Disco Ledge Bivi is reached (a flattopped pillar about the area of a small car, with a small cave/fissure behind).

9. 5m 15. Leave the Disco Ledge via the crack that the gully has narrowed to.

10. 100m. Contribute to deforestation on your way to the top.

Notes:

1. Special equipment. Two hooks suitable for small edges, two standard hooks, one hook for 5mm wide, 8mm deep holes. Aiders (etriers) are useful. A handbolting kit is recommended to beef-up the second stance with two bolts. A double or triple rack of small wires is useful for pitch 6.

2. Free notes. Pitch 2 can probably be mostly freed at grades that someone you know can climb. Pitch 6 would be bold, but most moves should be doable free.

3. Pitch 7 sounds suspiciously like the crux of SCATTERLINGS (22)?

A 50m long roof is situated about 70m up, between HALF MOON and HEY JUDE. SCATTERLNGS climbs up about 10m to the right of the right hand end of the roof. Directly below this point, scramble up 2m to the base of a short square recess. This point is about 15m left of HEY JUDE’s start.

1. 40m 18 Straight up a blocky rock, past wide ledge and small tree to base of crack system running up scooped face. Climb crack and corner then traverse 4m left to ledge on arête. 10m up to the right is obvious small nose-like roof.

2. 35m 21 Climb right and up to a rail which extends rightwards 4m below nose. Rail right, about 3m past the nose, then climb up until level with roof. Traverse left onto the nose then move up to a rail which is followed left until able to climb up leftwards to a small ledge. Climb up a few metres further to a large ledge on the right. One is now directly above the start of the climb.

3. 55m 18 35m up to the left is a small tree. Climb diagonally leftwards up railed face. At about 20m move right past end of long narrow roof. From small tree follow leftleading corner to ledge on top of pillar. Continue up to left end of Grassy Ledge. The chains of the Rap Route are just below the ledge.

4. 40m 13 Climb up obvious gully/corner on left side of pillar (HEY JUDE climbs right side of pillar). Before the top of gully traverse left a few metres until able to climb up and left to ledge directly above previous stance. (HEY JUDE stances further left, where there are chains hidden by grassy tuft).

5. 45m 21 Move past a small cammed block to righthand end of ledge. Climb up rightward to gain vague crack system leading up wall. Climb crack to its end, then move left to base of narrow left facing dihedral. Climb this to small roof then move slightly left to gain a crack (about 2m right of HEY JUDE). Climb up to rail and traverse 3m right. Climb straight up past a prong to ledge, move 2m left, then continue up to long narrow ledge. Walk left for half a rope length, to a point 10m right of the tallest tree (Jungle Ledge). HALFMOON heads up big recess on the left.

6. 20m 18 turn the small roof a few metres up, then zig-zag up face above to reach ledge and block. Above and slightly left are two steep.

7. 20m 21 Climb up and left to base of right-hand chimney (HALF MOON). Undercling left to gain left hand chimney/recess which is followed to ledge.

8. 20 m 18 It makes sense to link pitches 8 and 9 to avoid the cubbeyhole stance. Climb diagonally right to gain right leaning crack. Gain the top of large block/flake left of crack. Continue up crack to cubbyhole (uncomfortable).

9. 20m 22 Climb the continuation crack (amazing!) until an easier angled slab on the right is reached. Stance at apex of slab.

10. 45m 17 Move round right into recess. 10m up this climb out diagonally rightwards and continue up to easy ground and ledges.

Scramble about 75m to the top.

Notes:

1. Gear is bomber on all the hard Pitches

PROJECT THREE Starts between SCATTERLINGS and EIGHT MILES HIGH, about 15 metres left of HEY JUDE, straight up to the grass ledge between the two climbs. Start about 5 metres left of EIGHT MILES HIGH.

1. 40m 17 Up 7m then 2m right to crack which is about 6m left of EMH. More or less straight up to a ledge.

2. 40m 19 Climb up behind stance passing small overhang on the right at 7m. Continue up and slightly left to pass another roof on the left. Rail haul up to ledge under small roof above previous stance (5m left of EMH).

3. 35m 22R 7m up is a bulge with a small triangle in it. When established above this, move left 2m then straight up the crack to the Grassy Ledge. Walk up and 25m left to cleaned ledge, below some overhanging rock (3m right of tree).

4. 30m 20R Climb corner above blackened overhang, moving right at 15m (take care on loose rock). Move up, then trend back leftwards to ledge slightly above and 5m left of HEY JUDE’s peg stance (rap chains hidden by grass tuft).

5. 35m 20R Climb the crack above the left hand edge of the stance, stepping right at about 12m, then moving up and back left. Stance at the right edge of the HALFMOON Jungle Ledge.

6. 45m 18 Climb the short corners rightish to reach the slabby face. Continue up leftwards to the base of a crack through a steep orange section. Aid this or (alt.) climb the narrow HALFMOON chimney (5m left) to a ledge.

7. 45m 23R Continue up just left of the tree to the rap bolts. Traverse right and climb the left facing corner offwidth and continuation corner above the niche on HALFMOON, to a small ledge where the crack splits under a large roof. The bulge is harder for climbers shorter than 1.8m.

8. 35m 18 Climb the right hand crack up to a big rail and move out right under the roof to bucket seat on the lip. Continue up the crack and ledges above on the right to the HEY JUDE scramble.

Notes:

1. The runouts on pitches 3 and 5 are relatively safe. Pitch 4 is quite serious due to loose rock and minimal gear. A large cam (probably a #6) will make the crux pitch more appealing and eliminate the “R” rating for this pitch.

Takes a fairly direct line up the wall, the first three pitches between SCATTERLINGS and HEY JUDE, and the remaining between HEY JUDE and SOMETHING OF VALUE. Start about 3m left of HEY JUDE at the base of a rounded slab.

1. 45m 21 Climb the thin crack system running up the centre of the slab to a ledge. Climb the hand crack on the right side of the pillar above, and continue up and right to a narrow ledge (shared with HEY JUDE).

2. 35m 17 Pull through the narrowest point in the roof about 3m right of the stance. Climb trending slightly left to small ledge at the base of a shallow water scoop.

3. 35m 15 Climb up scoop, trending right at top to exit onto Grassy Ledge. Directly above is an immaculate corner, about 10m right of HEY JUDE.

4. 20m 22 Gain the base of the dihedral, climb it and pull though the overhang to beneath the long roof (blade peg). It makes sense to link straight into the next pitch to avoid a factor-2 fall. If not, rail right to a long ledge (SOMETHING OF VALUE stances further to the right).

5. 15m 21 Circle-Arrow Pitch: Climb left and up from the left end of the ledge to gain the rail beneath the roof. Rail left to a ledge.

6. 15m 21 Hot Tin Roof pitch: Climb the crack on the left side of the ledge to beneath a roof. Turn this on the right and climb a short recess to exit left to a narrow stance.

7. 30m 21 Climb more or less straight up the face above to gain the ledge beneath the long roof. Pull through the roof at the narrowest point and move left. Climb a short steep face to a narrow stance.

8. 40m 19 Climb up leftwards for a few metres until able to traverse easily right some way to the base of a short pillar. Traverse right from top of pillar, to the base of prominent left-facing corner. Up this to ledge, then up corner above to reach the boggling ledge on top of the main pillar (Stance of the Eagles).

9. 35m 24 (21A0) Pendulum pitch: Climb a few metres up the narrow dihedral to a fixed wire. Downclimb to the ledge and pendulum to the base of a corner further right, or drop down with your hands at the level of the ledge and traverse right (free) across the face (or dispense with the toprope altogether and rely on two good cams at the level of the ledge to protect the crux). Climb the corner system until able to exit left to a long ledge. Traverse left (past the SOMETHING OF VALUE off-width) to belay above the previous stance.

10. 40m 20 Emmlets Direct Pitch: Climb up the black scoop (no pro) to reach holds above the overlap. Climb straight up the obvious crack to the biggest ledge. Above and slightly left is a chimney whose base is blocked by trees. (Alternatively: From the stance traverse left, climb up and traverse back right above the overlap to gain the obvious crack - 19).

11. 45m 16 Climb the juggy face immediately right of the chimney. Move left at the top then diagonally left up the slab into the corner beneath a roof-crack. Climb the crack, keeping right at first then trending left to gain the final ledge. Scramble to the top.

LAST MOON is a gnarly fist sized crack in a left facing 40m corner. Start from the highest ledge 10m left of LAST MOON below the right facing corner flake.

1. 45m 16 Climb to bottom of flared chimney crack. Step across right to a little foot ledge and pull up. Traverse 1.5m right then ascend face, moving diagonally left as high as possible. Traverse about 8m left to below hanging block. Ascend crack system 2m left of hanging block. Climb face in steps diagonally right to good ledge.

2. 35m 17 Climb up to narrow roof. Traverse 8m to the right. Continue hand traversing 6m to end of traverse line. Pull overhang and climb face to good ledge.

3. 45m 16 Climb slightly diagonally right for about 15m. Traverse left for about 5m via pull-up on block. Follow recess line diagonally left to Grassy Ledge. Walk to pillar on left of ledge and scramble up to base of crack forming right side of pillar.

4. 30m 15 Climb crack to top of pillar. From top of pillar, climb up another 3m to a good handrail. Hand traverse left for about 15m to a good ledge. The rap chains are hidden by a grass tuft near the stance.

5. 35m 20 (17A1) Climb up via small ledge to bottom of recess (the only one cutting through this face). Use aid (one knife) to get to crack. Follow crack for 5m using another aid point to reach small ledge above. Climb up for 6m and then diagonally left to block (mostly aid climbing with a few free moves). Climb diagonally out right to sloping block. Continue straight up to narrow ledge (originally 3 pitches). This ledge leads leftwards to the Jungle Ledge bivy site.

6. 35m 14 From end of pitch 5 continue up shallow groove for about 10m and then traverse diagonally right to big block.

7. 15m 20 (17A1) Twin Cracks Pitch: Ascend crack left of block with some aid moves, to the left side of the pillar. Continue to top of pillar.

8. 35m 19 (17A1) Climb off-width crack above the ledge (use one sling for aid just below the ledge). Follow chimney-type recess to ledge and stance on right.

9. 20m 12 Climb diagonally right into gully above. Scramble 10m through trees to mouth of deep cave.

10. 40m 14 Climb slabs on left to broken ground.

11. 30m 11 Fight 10m to chossy gully and climb same to top.

Notes:

1. A #4 Camalot and #4 Friend or equivalent are useful on pitch 8.

LAST MOON is a gnarly fist sized crack in a left facing 40m corner. Start from the highest ledge 10m left of LAST MOON below the right facing corner flake (as for HEY JUDE).

1. 45m 16 Start up the flake and move right at 5m. Climb the slabs trending left to a flake/crack. Climb this then up and right on good holds to a ledge.

2. 38m 17 Climb up from the right hand edge of the ledge for 8m (through small roof). Straight up another 30m to stance directly above the previous stance on a good ledge.

3. 38m 15 Climb up on good but improbable looking rock. Trend right and then stance at the back of the Grassy Ledge. (blocks). Walk to the right hand end of the Grassy Ledge. Down climb to a stance on the far right of the ledge, at the base of chossy-looking, east-facing corner.

4. 35m 18 (17A0) Climb corner, stepping right at the top. Pull through roof on the left. Move right a few metres to a break. Follow this for 25m to a stance near some blocks (17A0 if you rest on a nut below the roof).

5. 50m 15 2m right is a left facing corner capped by a half metre roof. Climb this and continue up the next right facing corner to a ledge. Walk left until the ledge narrows, then blast straight up the wall above finishing up a left leaning corner crack to a large ledge. Climb up the wall to a small pillar. Move delicately right and then head for the yellowwood tree at the big platform up and right.

6. 15m 15 Head for the next yellowwood tree up and left. Follow the recess above to large ledges. The Bivi Cave lies to the right.

7. 45m 17 Move through the yellowwood and step off it on to the thin face. Climb the face diagonally left to the arête, follow this to the corner. Up this to step left at the big roof. Wind through on monster jugs to huge ledge.

8. 38m 18 From the upper ledge attack the jug forest above. Move right on to thinner stuff a little higher and climb to ledge.

9. 25m 16 Start from right hand side of large boulder. Climb the break, moving out left and exit into jungle.

10. 25m 15 LAST MOON takes the obvious major chimney behind the jungle. Climb the jug infested face just right of the chimney. Notes:

This RD is a stand alone version of the easiest pleasant route up the north wall. It climbs parts of HEY JUDE (pitch 1), EIGHT MILES HIGH (pitches 2 and 3), MOONRAKER (pitch 4 and some of pitch 5), LAST MOON (pitches 6 and 7) and ROAD WARRIOR (pitches 8 and 9).

LAST MOON is a gnarly fist sized crack in a left facing 40m corner. Start from the highest ledge 10m left of LAST MOON below the right facing corner flake (as for HEY JUDE).

1. 45m 16 Climb a few metres up the corner and then move right on to the face. Climb tending leftwards to the base of a short corner crack. Climb this and finish up and right to a stance.

2. 35m 17 Pull through the narrowest point in the roof about 3m right of the stance, then climb trending slightly leftwards to a reasonable ledge.

3. 35m 15 Climb the water worn scoop above trending right at the top to exit on to the mega Grassy Ledge. Walk about 10m to the right.

4. 20m 19 Climb up 4m to place gear behind a big flake. Continue up crack for a few meters until able to traverse right to another crack (don’t be fooled into continuing all the way up the crack – it gets hard!). Climb up to a large ledge, then walk 5m right to belay below the hanging corner 5m higher. VARIATION 40m 21 (not recommended – lots of bird shit): Start further right and climb the recess that leads to a ledge just left of the big roofs (as for BLUE MOON and WOW FUCK). Rail left for 5m until able to pull onto the face. Climb diagonally up and left over bird-shit until able to step left to the pegs on pitch 5. Either take a hanging stance here, or, if you have enough gear, continue up the rest of pitch 5.

5. 45m 21 Step off the ledge a few meters further right at a thin vertical crack (small wires / RP’s). Climb the face to a rail, then rail left to the base of the dihedral. Climb this to a roof. Move rightwards past the roof to pegs and follow the left-leading crack above to a small, off balance ledge. Navigate through the roof into the corner above and follow this to the jumbo ledge. Wild climbing.

6. 25m 25 From the front of the jumbo ledge, below the 1.5m high step in the ledge (i.e. from the lower ledge), climb easily up the leftward diagonal crack to a two foot roof. Move through this and up the crack above to stance above the next overlap. There is good gear below the crux sequence.

7. 35m 20 Move left then up and right into a thin crack. Climb up a bit and then head leftwards to the base of a clean corner system. Climb the corners to exit left to a long ledge. Scuttle left to belay about 3m beyond the obvious off-width crack.

8. 40m 20 Climb up about 5m to gain a crack. Climb this to stance at the highest ledge.

9. 45m 16 Climb the juggy face immediately right of the chimney. Step left at the top of the slab to below a roof crack. Up this keeping right at first then exit left to the ledge. Stay roped to scramble rightwards up the stepped ledge system and then up to the top.

Notes:

1. In the interests of the quest for consumer climbing on the big blue mountain, this RD is a stand-alone version of a pretty direct variation of existing routes up the craggy section of the main wall with a few new pitches thrown in for good measure. HEY JUDE (pitch 1), EIGHT MILES HIGH (pitches 2, 3, 8 and 9) and SOMETHING OF VALUE (pitch 4 and first half of pitch 5). The second half of pitch 5 and pitches 6 and 7 are independent of other routes.

LAST MOON is a gnarly fist sized crack in a left facing 40m corner. Start from the highest ledge 10m left of LAST MOON below the right facing corner flake (as for HEY JUDE).

1. 45m 16 Start up the flake and move right at 5m. Climb the slabs trending left to a flake/crack. Climb this then up and right on good holds to a ledge.

2. 38m 17 Climb up from the right hand edge of the ledge for 8m through small roof. Amble up another 30m to stance directly above the previous stance on a good ledge.

3. 30m 15 Climb up on good but improbable looking rock. Trend right and then stance at the back of the Grassy Ledge (blocks). Walk to major pillar on left of ledge and scramble up to a ledge at the base of the right facing corner formed by the pillar.

4. 30m 15 Climb the crack to top of pillar. From top of pillar, climb up another 3m to a good handrail. Traverse left for about 15m to stance at chains (hidden by a tuft of grass).

5. 45m 20 Climb past peg (17A1) above into recess. At top of recess, move through left break (17A1) on to face above. Trend left and then right to reach the right end of the Jungle Ledge.

6. 55m 18 20m above the ledge are two chimneys. Head for the right hand one and climb it, then continue past a good ledge up and right and then left to chains.

7. 45m 18 Climb chimney to chains.

8. 30m 13 Scramble out and up to chains. Stay roped for the scramble to the top.

Notes:

1. This route was opened as a fast but pleasant outing basically using the rap ladder in reverse (from the Grassy Ledge upwards!). It climbs parts of HEY JUDE (pitches 1 and 4), EIGHT MILES HIGH (pitches 2 and 3), SCATTERLINGS (part of pitch 6) and HALF MOON (remainder of pitch 6 and pitches 7 and 8).

2. Pitch 5 was originally graded 18, for this route, but is grade 20 for HEY JUDE. 20 is a fair grade.

Start about 400m to the right of the prominent corner where MOONLIGHT starts. From that corner, traverse along the ledge at the base of the main face past a large pile of boulders to an obvious 40m high pillar with a gnarly crack system along its lefthand side. The initial pitches follow the crack system.

1. 40m 19 Climb to ledge beneath 2 chimneys. Climb right chimney awkwardly to second ledge, above which the crack steepens. Climb crack system (crux) to just below cubbyhole below overhangs. Swing 1,5m right to vertical crack on face of pinnacle. Climb crack to ledge.

2. 36m 16 Traverse about 8m right then climb diagonally left past loose flake to resting place below steep face. Move up and left to where the angle eases. Continue up to the left over ledges, then diagonally right to stance.

3. 40m 12 Climb up and diagonally left to stance at the base of Grassy Ledge. Walk to right-hand end of Grassy Ledge. MOONRAKER takes the chossy-looking, east facing corner above.

4. 10m 10 Climb down small pinnacle to narrow ledge. Continue right to a stance.

5. 40m 16 Climb diagonally left to small left-facing corner in overhangs. Climb the corner to off balance ledge, then right for about 1.5m to small, steep recess. Climb this to where the angle eases and continue diagonally right to a stance.

6. 40m 12 From right-hand end of stance, climb 3m, traverse 5m left, then move up. Step to the right, then move up to prominent ledge below overhang. Traverse left to stance in small recess.

7. 12m 11 Hand swing to the left and then continue traversing to the main recess. Climb the right-hand side about 4m to a block ledge with a yellow wood tree (good two man bivi site).

8. 35m 17 Climb recess to ledge at top of pinnacle. Difficult sections at about 10m and 30m. One point of aid was used in the second difficult section.

9. 25m 14 Climb steep knobbly face leftwards past tree and then continue up slanting recesses to large ledge, Bivi Cave and yellowwood trees.

10. 50m 17 Crawl through yellowwood tree to face on outside of recess. Climb steep face for 8m, at first upward, then diagonally left to join the recess. Continue to top of recess to small ledge beneath overhangs. From right edge of ledge, climb to overhang. Traverse left to left facing corner in overhang. Climb steeply to large ledge (awesome!).

11. 38m 14 From right end of ledge, climb diagonally right to where rock steepens. Climb more or less straight up to large ledge. Walk about 50m left along the ledge.

12. 15m 11 Move up small face into slanting recess then up to a ledge. Traverse right then up short chimney to large bushy ledge. Walk 20m to right to base of obvious steep chimney (the right hand of 2 chimneys).

13. 25m 12 Climb the chimney and continue to the top.

Variation to pitches 7 and 8: 40m 16 Climb directly up from the stance and continue up a face and crack to the stance at the top of pitch 8.

Variation to pitch 9: 25m 20 Climb the left curving corner crack at the back right of the ledge. Continue up chimney to Bivi Cave.

Starts between LAST MOON and SOMETHING OF VALUE.

1. 17m 21 Climb up to and through the apex of inverted V recess, then move up and right to belay in a hollow.

2. 30m 27 Climb the continuation recess and crack past two bolts on the headwall. Continue easily for another 15 metres to a ledge (shared with LAST MOON) (Alternative: 23 Climb the continuation recess but traverse right beneath the headwall, to a recess which is climbed diagonally leftwards to rejoin the last 15 metres of the original pitch). It makes sense to combine the first two pitches.

3. 30m 18 Climb straight up then slightly leftwards to a ledge.

4. 40m 14 Climb up to the Grassy Ledge.

5. 30m 18 Start about 5 metres right of the large flake lying against the back of the grass ledge. Climb a crack/recess leading to a ledge in the base of a left facing corner. Extending to the right is a very large roof about 25 metres above the grass ledge. Move right around the arête and continue traversing rightwards until able to move up to a hanging belay immediately beneath the widest part of the roof. A handrail runs right beneath the roof from the stance.

6. 15m 21 Drop back down to a level about 3 metres beneath the roof. Traverse right for about 8 metres, then climb diagonally left to a stance above the right end of the roof. (Alternative: 22A1 Rail right until able to pull round the lip. Traverse left to a stance on the edge of the roof).

7. 45m 17 Climb up for about 15 metres to a long ledge. From a point a couple of metres left of the widest part of the ledge, climb up then trend right across the face. Stance on a ledge a few metres right of a 5 metre long lens shaped roof. (Stance shared with TEDDY BEARS PICNIC).

8. 40m 21 Climb the right-hand crack/flake, and traverse right to a flared crack leading to ledge (pitch shared with TEDDY BEARS PICNIC up to here). Continue up and right to the LAST MOON Bivi Cave in the base of a left facing recess.

9. 45m 20 Crawl out to the right and pull onto the face 2 metres right of LAST MOON. Climb diagonally rightwards across the face, heading for the skyline. After a thin traverse right, continue right and up until able to move back left and up to belay at the right hand end of a large ledge (last 8 metres shared with MOONRAKER).

10. 40m 17 Climb diagonally right for about 10 metres, to a one metre block on a ledge. Continue more or less straight up to a large ledge. (This pitch climbs between ROAD WARRIOR and LAST MOON).

11. 35m 13 Walk left and select a pitch up to a broad bushy ledge. (Alternative: 17 fight right to the base of a third chimney).

12. 20m 16 Climb the face to the right of the right hand chimney. (Alternative: 13 Climb to the top if you climbed the alternative to pitch 11).

Notes:

1. Pitch 6 is tricky. The leader is well protected but the second might have an exciting swing.

2. Pitch 8 was originally graded 20, which is a sandbag.

The route starts 10m right of LAST MOON at a 3m flake/pillar.

1. 40m 18 From the top of the flake, climb straight up the break above to stance on a ledge on the right.

2. 40m 17 Continue directly up the break, through a small overhang at 30m to a stance at the base of a small face.

3. 40m 18 Climb straight up to the Grassy Ledge. It is unnecessary to deviate more than a metre or 2 either way anywhere on the first 3 pitches. Walk about 20m to the left (i.e. to about 4m right of the striking dihedral, capped by a long roof, taken by EIGHT MILES HIGH).

4. 20m 19 Climb up 4m to place gear behind a big flake. Continue up cracks until able to traverse right to another crack. Climb up to a large ledge, then walk 5m right to belay below the corner.

5. 20m 21 Climb the face to a rail leading left to the base of the dihedral, which is climbed to a roof. Move rightwards past the roof to pegs and follow the left-leading crack above to a small, off balance ledge. Navigate through the roof into the corner above and follow this to the jumbo ledge. Wild climbing. Walk about 10m right and down to the base of a short crack/groove.

6. 25m 19 Move up the crack to rail which is traversed rightwards a few metres. Climb up 3-4m to another traverse line leading right then down to a small ledge.

7. 20m 18 Move up and left until under the roof. Continue traversing leftwards until it is possible to gain a small ledge in the break.

8. 30m 20 Above are two cracks through a gnarly wall. Climb the left-hand one to a rail about 10m up, then move left, up then diagonally right to a point above the stance. Move straight up to a bivi ledge.

9. 20m 17 Traverse left to an off-width crack (mostly walking).

10. 40m 21 Key Crack: Climb directly up until the going gets easier. Continue to the second ledge.

11. 55m 16 Climb the crack above to a ledge 10m up. Move 5m right to the clean break, which is climbed for 5m. Move 4m right to gain the knobbly slabs above. Climb these straight up to a stance on a short square pillar. Stay roped for the scramble to the top.

Takes a direct line, between SOV and TEDDY BEARS’ PICNIC. Start 5m right of SOV below an overlap which turns into a short, right-facing corner higher up.

1. 35m 22 The One-More-Time Pitch. Climb 5m to the small roof, then rightwards into the overlap. Climb up to another small roof and rail right, then up the rightfacing corner above. The crack pinches out here so traverse 3m right to a crack. Up this to just below where it dies, then traverse 4m back left to rejoin the original crack line. Climb this to a ledge shared with SOV.

2. 40m 18 Up then slightly left from the stance, through some steep rock, to a ledge. Traverse right to a small amphitheatre with a short corner on each side and a big roof above. Climb up to the apex of the left hand right-facing corner, layback round the small roof to under the big roof. Rail left to a ledge.

3. 40m 17 Traverse 10m left. Climb a shattered pillar to the next ledge. Head diagonally right then up to the grassy ledge.

4. 40m 21 Rolling Stones Pitch. There are big roofs above the right hand half of the ledge. A massive corner with three roofs breaks through to the left of the biggest roofs. Climb the recess to a ledge beneath the corner (shared with WOW FUCK). Climb the corner, railing right under the first and second roof. Just after the second roof, traverse right across the face to an outrageous foot ledge on the skyline. Climb up the prow then step back left into the corner (now above the final roof). Climb this to a good small ledge.

5. 50m 18 Step right and make thin moves up to a big rail. Traverse about 8m right to a vertical crack, up this then rail right to another vertical crack. Up again then step right to belay beneath the middle of 3 cracks (the right hand diagonal crack in a yellow wall is TBP, SOV breaks through the roofs about 20 or 30m left).

6. 35m 25 Legoland pitch. "This 'aint no sport route". Savour the warm-up moves in the corner until able to step left around the arête onto a slab. Climb up the small trapezoid pillar on the left then pull through the bulge to a rail. Breathe through your arse as you move up and left to a bolt. Diabolical crimps lead horizontally left to a rest beneath the next bolt. Climb up past the bolt and traverse thankfully left to juglets. Up to the big ledge. Walk left to below the large right-facing corner. TBP goes up the face with 2 bolts to the right.

7. 35m 23 Knifeblade Pitch. Climb the corner, past a peg. Traverse right to a small ledge. Climb the crack above the left hand side of the ledge & follow the break curving up left. Traverse left until able to easily climb up to a good ledge.

8. 60m 21 Walk 5m right to a sheltered alcove. Climb left-trending thin diagonal crack until it dies. Continue diagonally left to easier ground. Traverse right and pull onto the easy slab. Up this and follow your nose until you run out of rope.

9. 30m 16 Scramble/climb to the summit.

Notes:

1. A well-protected route. Pitches 6 and 7 are bold, but safe. Bolts (60mm, M10 stainless steel, placed in 2005) and peg (BD knifeblade, 2005) placed on abseil.

2. Gear: double rack of small cams, small wires on pitch 1, #3 Camalot on pitch 7.

3. Pitches 4, 6 & 7 cleaned and inspected on abseil and mostly top-roped before being led. Pitches 6, 7 & 8 opened, subsequently freed.

Start about 35m right of LAST MOON, below a 3m by 2m roof 15m up (as for MOONRAKER).

1. 45m 20 Climb flake to recess between flakes (MOONRAKER takes right flake). Move left and up then traverse left to (delicate) double flakes. Up these to narrow roof, which is turned to gain recess. Climb this, moving right at top.

2. 40m 20 Move 2m left, then climb steeply until able to finger-rail left through top of green patch. Move up and diagonally right to reach a ledge. Climb left facing corner, pull right through roof and stance.

3. 35m 16 Climb up to Grassy Ledge. Walk right.

4. 50m 20 Start a few metres left of pinkish-white amphitheatre, directly below the point where main roof tapers to about 1,5 metres. Climb deviously up orange face to rounded blocky buttress beneath roof. Pull through and move up to base of recess. Climb easily up to left of recess to reach a large ledge on the left.

5. 30m 17 Climb obvious recess directly above previous pitch and continue up to a stance at the base of two cracks (LAST MOON's obvious gully is to the right).

6. 30m 21 Climb the right-leaning right crack (narrow dihedral), and traverse right to a left facing corner crack, which is followed to reach the left end of a ledge (LAST MOON's Bivi Cave to the right).

7. 30m 20 Traverse left to big ledges – awesome!

8. 35m 21 Precious Mettles pitch: Starting near left end of ledge, climb face past 2 bolts, trend right, then up and left to a small ledge. Continue up to next (big) ledge at base of right facing corner.

9. 35m 15 Move left and climb up to ledges. Continue up face to right of a bushy crack and stance on ledge on right (follow your nose on this pitch).

10. 35m 15 Move right across crack, climb up and right to an easy face which is followed right to a large ledge.

11. 45m 15 Climb to the top.

Notes:

1. Pitch 8 (Precious Mettles) was originally bolted on abseil by Mike Cartwright as a direct finish to SOMETHING OF VALUE.

2. The 5th pitch after the grass ledge (the precious mettle pitch) has 2 bolts on it. These very dodgy old ones were replaced with new M10, 100mm stainless steel bolts in October 2005. This is a great, well protected route.

3. Pitch 7 was first climbed by Mike Cartwright before the route was opened.

4. The remainder of the route was opened on-sight, in a day.

5. It is possible to traverse right to LAST MOON from the last part of pitch 4 and from many places on pitch 5, at about grade 18 (depending).

6. SOMETHING OF VALUE joins the big ledge at the end of pitch 7 from directly below and then traverses left.

The route starts 50m right of LAST MOON and 15m left of NEW MOON. There are two large flakes below a roof 20m up. Right of the route is a corner facing west.

1. 25m 16 Climb up right hand flake. At the top, climb up small corner to 3m below large roof. Step delicately right and move up to stance at the base of corner that faces west.

2. 40m 18 Start 2m right of corner and climb up past tricky move at 4m then rightwards over easier ground for about 5m. Climb left to top of corner. Climb up about 5m to stand on 1 m high block with cracks on both sides of it. Traverse 3m left and move (with difficulty) left around bulge. Climb up with difficulty for 6m to ledge where a 30cm block is cammed below small roof. Pull the roof and continue up ledges.

3. 45m 18 Climb up slightly diagonally right for 35m to under a roof (generally easy ground with hard move at 10m). Climb the roof at a break which is 6m right of stance below. Move left onto jugs then back right to stand on lip of roof. Climb up another 4m to stance at small tree.

4. 30m 10 Scramble up to Grassy Ledge.

5. 45m 18 From right end of Grassy Ledge climb up broken crack in a corner which faces east. At top of crack move right and crank small roof. Continue a few metres up and right to below a small roof. Strenuously through roof and continue up for another 8m to where rock steepens. Traverse right 3m and then climb up to ledge. Walk left 20m to base of prominent west-facing open book with jam crack.

6. 45m 16 Climb open book for 3m and step left onto smooth face. Climb up to a 1m roof with jam crack. Pull roof and continue straight up to ledge. From right of ledge move right. Climb up easy ground to 2m high pinnacle. Traverse right onto grassy ledge and stance. Climb up 5m to blocky ledge behind yellowwood tree.

7. 45m 16 From right side of ledge climb up to foot rail. Use a hand rail to gain recess on the right. Move right around arête onto knobbly face. Traverse right for 20m then climb up to stance between two prominent corners/cracks which are 8m apart. The third crack splitting a yellow, lichen-covered face to the left is climbed by ROAD WARRIOR.

8. 45m 19 Climb the middle crack which curves rightwards in an undercling (crux) near the top. After the crux, move left onto knobbly face. Climb up diagonally left to eventually gain a huge ledge (common stance with LAST MOON).

9. 45m 18 From extreme left of ledge climb a big west-facing corner for 15m. At the top of the corner move right onto knobbly rock. Up 1m then back left for 3m. Straight up to the huge ledge.

10. 20m 16 Climb a finger crack directly behind the stance. Move 1m left at about 15m and climb up to the large bundu ledge.

11. 15m 16 Bash through bushes right for 10m. There are two deep chimneys 3m apart. The right chimney is the final pitch of LAST MOON. Climb the left chimney to the roof and move left then up a layback to the summit.

Notes:

1. The route was opened in a day with no aid, falls, yo-yos etc. Pitches 6, 7 and 8 were climbed two months previously with S Isabeck while off route.

2. It makes sense to climb to the Grassy Ledge in 3 pitches instead of 4. I.e. combine part of pitch 2 with pitch 1.

3. The route (and pitch 8) was originally graded 20.

About 50m right of the pillar marking the start to LAST MOON is a prominent overhang about 4m up, increasing in height and size towards the right. The route starts just to the left of this overhang and takes a line trending slightly to the left, to below a small line of overhangs about 60m up, which are surmounted on the right. Start at the base of a short arête, just to the left of the overhang.

1. 30m 18 Climb arête for 4m to ledge and continue up and delicately left, to resting place just below short steep 4m face right of the crack. Climb up with difficulty (crux – originally climbed with aid) to ledge, and continue up crack above for 5m. Traverse 4m right, then move up and back left to small stance in corner.

2. 30m 16 From stance, traverse 2m left, then climb steep, slightly recessed face and awkward groove above until able to traverse diagonally left to below steep crack/recess. Climb this past and continue up some dubious rock to small, exposed stance about 9m below and to the left of the small line overhangs.

3. 30m 16 Climb crack above stance for 4m, then traverse 8m right to 4m below the overhang (exposed). Climb up steeply to a crouching ledge below overhang, then traverse 3m right to where overhang narrows. Climb straight up to ledge and continue up to short, steep face above to a ledge and comfortable stance.

4. 30m 11 Climb diagonally up right past short section of loose rock. Continue diagonally rightwards to stance on ledge below short crack where rock steepens.

5. 25m 14 Climb the crack, then step delicately right at the top. Continue diagonally right to below short, steep face, then traverse right into awkward overhanging recess breaking through the face. Climb this (strenuous) and continue up and slightly left to stance in open recess, just below where it steepens again.

6. 30m 16 Step left from stance and move 6m up steep recess until able to step right onto the lip of overhang directly above stance. Traverse 3m right, then move up and right on to easier rock. Climb recess above to where it steepens and continue up with difficulty to small overhang before moving left to stance on a grassy ledge.

7. 30m 16 Climb 8m diagonally right, then straight up to a steep crack, which is climbed to a resting place on the right. Climb continuation crack till it is possible to make a spectacular move left. Move up and further left to comfortable grassy stance below imposing, steep, red face (possible bivi site for two).

8. 45m 18 Climb face above on good grips, moving right higher up and then back left past a steep section to ledge below prominent steep crack. Climb crack (strenuous towards the top) and continue diagonally up left on a steep face above, to where the angle eases. Stance in small recess.

9. 15m 7 Climb diagonally right over ledges to stance below small tree in a corner. (It is possible to traverse to the left on to LAST MOON from this point).

10. 35m 14 Traverse right on steep rock to an arête, then move up steeply to where angle eases. Make a long traverse right over knobbly face to a small recess where an uncomfortable stance is made just below where the rock steepens.

11. 30m 16 Climb recess past a very steep section to where the angle eases. Continue up and slightly right to the base of crack in smooth corner leading up to overhang. Climb the crack, then traverse right to ledge to the right of the overhang. Continue diagonally up right over smooth slab to below short, awkward recess, which is climbed to large, guano-filled ledge 5m below a very steep, narrow chimney. (ANCIENT DUST OF AFRICA shares parts of this pitch). 100

12. 35m 20 (18A2) Climb the steep crack (4 nuts for aid) into the base of chimney and continue (very strenuous) up this to where the shortly before an overhang. Climb up the overhang, then move awkwardly out to the left on to on exposed face. Continue diagonally out to the left, then up to a stance on a big ledge below a large band of overhangs.

13. 35m 10 Walk 15m right along ledge, past the end of the overhang, then climb up and back to the left able to scramble to the top.

This is a high-quality linkup of EIGHT MILES HIGH, SOMETHING OF VALUE, TEQUILA SUNRISE, TEDDY BEARS’ PICNIC, and BLUE MOON

LAST MOON is a gnarly fist sized crack in a left facing 40m corner. HEY JUDE starts from the highest ledge 10m left of LAST MOON below the right facing corner flake. This routes starts about 3m left of HEY JUDE at the base of a rounded slab.

1. 45m 21 Climb the thin crack system running up the centre of the slab to a ledge. Climb the hand crack on the right side of the pillar above, and continue up and right to a narrow ledge (shared with HEY JUDE). (EMH)

2. 35m 18 Pull through the narrowest point in the roof about 3m right of the stance. Climb trending slightly left to small ledge at the base of a shallow water scoop. (EMH)

3. 35m 18 Climb up scoop, trending right at top to exit onto Grassy Ledge. (EMH) Follow your nose route finding. Nothing too hard.

4. 20m 19 EMH takes the striking dihedral capped by a long roof. About 4m right of, this climb up 4m to place gear behind a big flake. Continue up crack for a few meters until able to traverse right to another crack (don’t be fooled into continuing all the way up the crack – it gets hard!). Climb up to a large ledge, then walk 5m right to belay below the hanging corner 5m higher. (SOV)

5. 45m 21 Step off the ledge a few meters further right at a thin vertical crack (small wires / RP’s). Climb the face to a rail, then rail left to the base of the dihedral. Climb this to a roof. Move rightwards past the roof to pegs and follow the leftleading crack above to a small, off balance ledge. Navigate through the roof into the corner above and follow this to the jumbo ledge. Wild climbing. Walk about 10m right and down to the base of a short crack/groove. (TS)

6. 25m 19 Move up the crack to a rail which is traversed rightwards a few metres. Climb up 3-4m to another traverse line leading right, below the aloe and grass clump. Step down and traverse right to stance where the rock turns to chicken heads. (SOV)

7. 20m 18 Climb up on chicken heads to the right of the aloe clump then trend leftwards above it, aiming for an undercling crack beneath a small roof. Traverse left here, with your feet above a second, lower roof to gain a small ledge in the break just beyond the left edge of the top roof. (SOV)

8. 30m 20 Above are two cracks through a gnarly wall. Climb the left-hand one to a rail about 10m up, then move left, up then diagonally right to a point above the stance. Move straight up to a bivi ledge. (SOV)

9. 35m 21 Precious Mettles pitch: Starting near left end of ledge, climb face past 2 bolts, trend right, then up and left to a ledge (TP)

10. 60m 21 Climb left-trending thin diagonal crack until it dies. Continue diagonally left to easier ground. Traverse right and pull onto the easy slab. Up this and follow your nose until you run out of rope. Careful on this pitch – it sucks you in to a big lead-out. (BM). An easy alternative is to start 10m left around the corner and climb easy gnarly faces to the top.

11. 30m 16 Scramble/climb to the summit.