Voies dans Wolfberg pour la cotation selectionnée

To access this route hike all the way to the South West gully following the base of the wolfberg mountain. Once at the gully, scramble up passing behind a tree. A cairn on the base of the first crack demarks the start of Crack of Icarus.

1. Climb the crack system to a ledge and belay from there. To access the second pitch, walk left of the ledge and scramble/climb a short easy section to a huge ledge. Walk around 20 meters left across the ledge, stepping on a big chockstone, passing and scramble down behind a big tree. Around the corner, scramble up to a ledge with a cairn on it at the base of a face where the second pitch starts (I recommend climbing this easy face up to the higher ledge to belay below the big long roof where the second crack starts).

2. Climb the face to a big ledge. Climb the crack to the right of a long roof to a small roof. Climb the roof to a ledge.

3. Climb the crack system passing a sequence of hand jam, laybacking, overhang with jugs until surprised by a slab. Step one meter to the left and climb the slab to a ledge. This is an amazing pitch!

4. Scramble up behind a huge block to a face. Climb the face starting 5m left of the arête, traversing slightly right to do a boulder move (crux). Head up to the top.

The descent is through the SW gully, starting with a hike and followed by a 30 meters rappel.

Start as for After the Goldrush. From the lowest level, scramble up a groove past a tree to the ledge 5m up. Move left to recess at the base of After the Goldrush.

1. 15 (30m) Pull into the recces and then move ~2m right onto the juggy face to the right. Climb up 2m then traverse right ~2m. Continue straight to the next ledge.

Walk ~20m right to a large bush at the base of set vertical cracks.

1. 19 (30m) Climb the left, more distinct, crack to a small roof ~10m up. Pull through on the left side, then traverse ~2m right. Head straight up through the break in the step section above.

2. 12 (10m) Pull up onto a grey, juggy face. Continue through the next break (with a long, narrow roof to the right), to the next ledge.

3. 17 (30m) Stand on a platform to gain a break in the grey/red speckled rock just over a small roof. After this, follow a light brown fin that forms the right side of a chimney. Pull over the bulge at the end of the fin to a small ledge. Continue up another short ramp to the next ledge.

4. 18 (20m) Move straight up to a right arching crack below a narrow roof. Pull through the roof (tricky) and continue straight to the top via a second thin roof.

Walk past Eclipse and 20m right of ‘Quite Something’ is a large pile of blocks. Start at the top of the pile of blocks.

1. [18] 45m

   Step up onto a small ledge and walk right until you stand on top of a free standing block. Do a grunt of a pull-up and head upwards. Pass a ledge, then up and right until you can traverse right beneath a roof and across an exposed corner, emerging on the belay ledge. This is atop the golden nose visible from the ground.

2. [17] 40m

   Once again, do a grunt of a pull-up and ascend the recess. A large, deep crack opens ahead of one. Climb jugs up the wall left of the crack, stepping right across the crack at the top and railing under the roof. Climb up easy ground to a large ledge.

3. [18] 25m

   (one move )Do a grunt of a pull-up from the rails. Giggle jugs take you to the top.

Pitch 2: Alternate (15): At the base of the crack head right for 4m and up the friendly jugs to the big ledge. Walk 40m left scrambling up a short ramp just to the right of the big gully until you are at the base of a small crack that cuts through a grey roof.

Start just left of Eclipse

1. 15 (20m) Follow a straight line, starting on a small flat spot a few meters left of Eclipse, up the face to the ledge. Stance below a break in the brown rock that leads to a left tending undercling.

2. 19 (20m) Follow the break and undercling to the roof and rail left to a small platform stance.

3. 18 (30m) Head up and slightly right (#3 Camalot useful) to a rail. Continue right to a vague, airy arete and follow this up and then left to a large ledge. Continue easily up the honeycomb features on the right and scramble up to a huge ledge. Continue right to stance left of a low roof, in about the middle of the wall that rises above the ledge.

4. 16 (35m) Climb up a few meters to a slight bulge, pull through this then follow the line of least resistance straight up the face.

The main feature on this route is the big left-leaning grey groove to the left of the overhanging bands on the south-west face. Start from the ledges directly below the groove.

1. [17] 10m

   Climb a shallow corner to the right, then traverse left to a narrow ledge at the base of the groove.

2. [19] 40m

   Superb climbing leads up the back of the groove and out to the left around and overhang. Climb up the short corners above to a massive ledge on the right.

3. [15] 25m

   Go horizontally to the left on a narrow rail to a niche and then climb directly up on jugs to a belay ledge.

4. [15] 50m

   An easy chimney gives access to an escape ledge whence scrambling on gargoyles leads to the summit.

Mildred has long been topless. Pecking Duck completes the line with something a little spicier than its classic neighbour ‘Little Red Rooster’

1. 17 (35m) As for Mildred. Climb the arête to the right of Little Red Rooster. After 20m, at the overhang, step right around the corner before continuing to the top.

2. 18 (35m) Start 3m right of Little Red Rooster, and trace Little Red Rooster pitch 2 and 3. Face-climbing leads to a right-facing open book, and a headwall ramp leads the stance.

3. 15 (15m) Little Red Rooster final pitch arcs right-to-left via gargoyles. Instead, climb directly diagonally up and left over the void, via an overlap and clean orange rock to the summit.

Follow pitch 1 of Knobless Robot until you reach the traverse out right (which would have taken you to the original stance). Instead of moving out right, follow the crack directly up to the small ledge. Can be done as 2 pitches (stance on the small ledge before the traverse out left).

This is a really good route on good rock and gear. Start half way between Knobless robot and Baby robot pilars.

1. Climb the corner crack to stance at a small ledge.

2. Climb the roof to a ledge.

One can easily link up this two pitches.

This route starts on the face, 4 meters to the right of the arête of the crack corner of Pigs on the wing route and ends on 1 meter right of the arête.

This route starts on the oposite wall of Old Timer's disease route. The first pitch is very good but it has two big loose blocks that are a bit scary. The rock on the second pitch is very good, except by the chicken heads in the end.