Ascensions dans Sierra Nevada comme Tick

Fun! First route in Yosemite

The crux from crack to slab is a heart stopper for sure!

First time building trad anchors! Pretty awesome and terrifying stuff

surrealistic

Led most of it

Led a small 5.6 crack in the midst of this route

Listed on Mountain Project as 121 Mtrs and 4 pitches which is how I climbed it

Muir to the shield, rope solo aid faff sloth style. Clean (definately not hammerless). Wild.

Few days fixing to P6, then waited around for some replacement approachies that never arrived, 14 days on-wall, several days to get everything back down.

Rack brought for Muir->Shield (clean) June 2022

Hooks: -2*talons (only used 1) -1*cliffhanger (only used 1) -2*Narrow cam hooks (only used 1) -1*micro, wide (not used)

Pitons: -15 #3 peckers or equiv staight tomahawks (wouldn't have minded having 20, MVPs on the headwall) -2* #1 peckers -2 * #2 peckers -2 random size sawed angles (old booty, size unknown), would have been good to have a full set to use skeleton key style. Useful but probably not essential, only used twice, more #3 beaks likely more useful -Wall hammer -Mini hammer for nut cleaning on clean pitches -Funkness device (used for cleaning a few unnesessary fixed beaks) -Few random heads -No LAs -Few heads - brought but never used.

Nuts: -1 set standard micro nuts (barely used) -2-3 sets offset brass nuts (clutch) -1 set peanuts (completely unused - would not bring) -About 1kg of offset alloy nuts - very helpful esp gold/blue

Cams: -2*set of offset X4s (clutch, despite copping a lot of slack for the harder alloy found them pretty bomber in weird grooves within the SA scars) -1*Aliens black-green (didn't use much) -Triple totems set from black - grey (0.4 equiv), and mix totems/C4s triples to #3, double #4, double #5 (big gear most useful for the muir section, probably a bit over the top)

Misc: -3-4 large Wire rivet hangers (never used) -> some of the micro/piano wire size wire rivet hangers may have been useful instead of 3mm nylon -Few meters of 3mm nylon cord (useful for a few of the old RURPs -Few meters of ?11/16th webbing for fixed gear -Few leaver biners (bootied a few, used a few) -Sharp knife for cleaning off some tat, honestly in some spots I wish I had a narrow head locking pliers for getting some mank tat off. -Didn't bring an adjustable spanner - many, many of the quicklinks and hangers were loooose (At least on the muir pitches).

Crux aid pitches went clean as previous party placed a mashie at the bottom of the groove, without which would have been quite a challenge.

Cleaned a bunch of tat (but theres still a lot that really needs the chop), and a few beaks from the headwall pitches that were taking up nice beak scars that should go fine hand placed.

"What a beautiful crack... wanna aid climb it?" 6hrs of 'Oh shit' and 'I don't trust this' later and we'd climbed the first pitch (broken into 3 pitches so everyone got a lead). Carrying enough cams, nuts, offsets and hexes to knockout a bison, a new motto was born for future climbs, "Have you got enough gear to climb El Cap?"

With Dj (djs first wall), cool to see Jordan Cannon (plus entourage) working on dry lycra nightmare, and old mates mike and mike doing wdd in excellent style (chill, multiday) - so great to top out after benightment and hear old stories about Mikl sanbagging some lovely yank climbers.

Would encourage the use of pee bottles if your route hangs over another and bit of a longer day than expected, but you get that.