Voies dans Northern Sierra Nevada pour la cotation selectionnée

Fixed Draws.

Pro to 4".

#SD

Hand crack up to sustained overhanging thin finger crack with fixed draws. The hand crack protects with a 2.5" cam.

Huntin' Gator is the first pitch of the infamous test piece Cajun Hell. Take the class 4 scramble up the long diagonal ramp cutting leftward up Mayhem Cove. It begins within the cave as the second route from the right and fourth from the left although the bolted lines for the other routes are sporadic at best. 7 bolts lead to a 2 bolt hanging belay anchor system on the headwall. Find the fixed bolt on the ramp for the belay person. The second through fourth bolts have fixed chains so you'll know you're on the right route. Through the first four bolts you're treated to wildly overhanging powerful moves rightward out to the overhanging face. The next 2 bolts offer big holds and a chance to catch your breath, but the technical redpoint crux awaits as you move up and left towards the anchors.

If you continue up and left past the anchors following the diagonal seam along the overhanging headwall, this is Drinkin' White Lightning, the 5.12c second half of Cajun Hell.

7 bolts to a 2 bolt wire cable and fixed biner anchor system

This route takes more or less a strait shot through the center of the main face of Eagle Rock and requires some very thin face climbing skills.

Look for the marker piton at it's base. Begin by climbing the dirty right facing corner until you can make a short traverse right into a low angle arching crack. Place little gear here as it will produce rope drag as you climb higher. Climb up to a nice short ledge with a bolt. Hand traverse right before climbing back left up a ramp. Several bolts and some gear will bring you to a two bolt anchor out left under a big roof. Be mindful of rope drag, it's a long pitch.

Pitch two climbs a dirty awkward section through the roof then traverses right to a paper thin flake. Thin face moves through the crux lead to a mantle on a big knob, then knob climbing through the headwall to a two bolt anchor on a big ledge.

Pitch three climbs up and left to a big rock scar following a thin crack on the face. Eventually the crack arches out right and up past a few thin knobs on golden granite to the summit block. Traverse left under the block to the bolted anchor.

Straight up the blunt prow from a sit start. Stand start is V3.

Start as for Cross Over but head left up the dihedral seam. Stand start (completely independent of Cross Over) is V3.

Start just right of the small rock at the base.

Proud line of technical crimps in the middle of the wall.