A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
MillyT
Alastair Osment
William Leventhal
@droche
rick
FLEEDOGG
Simon Dale
jeff constine
Colin Arnott
Chad Freak
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Malibu Creek State Park
176 in Area
- 1.1. Ghetto Wall 29 routes in Area
- 1.2. Planet of the Apes Wall 18 routes in Area
- 1.3. The power station! 6 routes in Area
- 1.4. Stumbling Blocks 22 routes in Area
- 1.5. Toddler Terrace 4 routes in Crag
- 1.6. Mount Gorgeous 11 routes in Area
-
1.7.
Century Lake 29 routes in Area
- 1.7.1. Mikey's Arete Wall 3 routes in Sector
- 1.7.2. Little Cheops 3 routes in Sector
- 1.7.3. The Power Wall 9 routes in Sector
- 1.7.4. White Trash Wall 4 routes in Sector
- 1.7.5. The Water Wall 3 routes in Sector
- 1.7.6. Lean To Boulder 3 routes in Sector
- 1.7.7. Drifter Wall 4 routes in Sector
- 1.8. Little Cheops / Drifter Wall 0 routes in Area
- 1.9. The Power Wall 0 routes in Area
- 1.10. The Wave Wall 6 routes in Sector
-
1.11.
Crags Road 7 routes in Sector
- 1.11.1. Iceberg Boulder 3 routes in Sector
- 1.11.2. Lake Malibou Tower 1 routes in Sector
- 1.11.3. Wedge 3 routes in Sector
- 1.12. Mt. Gorgeous 34 routes in Sector
- 1.13. Malibu Pinnacle 2 routes in Sector
- 1.14. Gutterball Boulder 2 routes in Boulder
- 1.15. Niagara Fist Boulder 2 routes in Boulder
- 1.16. Water Hazard Boulder 1 routes in Boulder
- 1.17. Sink Or Swim Boulder 2 routes in Boulder
- 2. Index by grade
1. Malibu Creek State Park
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 34.096781, -118.736922
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
7 | ★★ Classic Malibu Face | 5.8 |
1.1. Ghetto Wall
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 34.095258, -118.731078
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Best Laid Plans | 5.9 | 52ft, 5 | |||
2 |
Unnamed
First route on your right when facing "Best Laid Plans". | 5.10d | ||||
3 |
★★ Skeezer Pleaser
Climb the very steep face past some cool pockets leading to a tough move out left, onto the arete & finishing slab moves. 5 bolts to open shuts FA: Louie Anderson | 5.11b | 130ft | |||
4 | ★ Kathmandu | 5.10b | ||||
5 | ★★ Stun Gun | 5.12d | ||||
6 | ★★ Maximum Ghetto | 5.13a | ||||
7 | Darkest Hour | 5.12c | ||||
8 | ★★ Johnny Can't Lead | 5.10d | ||||
9 | ★★ Hole Patrol | 5.12b | ||||
10 |
★★★ Ghetto Blaster
FA: Eddie Yansick, 1990 | 5.13b | 49ft | |||
11 |
★★ Urban Struggle
Starts out the back of the right most cave. Head up to the roof & out the rail & head up steep pockets to the crux move right leading to the chains FA: John Mireles & Bill Leventhal | 5.12a | 180ft | |||
12 | Mississippi Mud | 5.13a/b | 45ft | |||
13 | Wet Willy | 5.10c/d | 75ft | |||
14 | The Projects / Street Science | 5.12c | ||||
15 | Lonesome Stranger | 5.12a | ||||
16 | Directpissima | 5.11a | 50ft | |||
17 | Brenna Crossing | 5.12c | 35ft | |||
18 | Ghetto Crossing | 5.13a | ||||
19 | Brenna | 5.13d | 35ft | |||
20 | Lateralus | 5.14a | 45ft | |||
21 | Stink Finger | 5.12d | 50ft | |||
22 | Urban Sprawl | 5.10c | 60ft | |||
23 | Junk Ramp | 5.9 | 50ft | |||
24 | Carnal Corner | 5.10a | 60ft | |||
25 | Ground Zero | 5.12a | 35ft | |||
26 | Bush Pig | 5.12a/b | 50ft | |||
27 | Labor And Deliverance | 5.10c | 35ft | |||
28 | Crybaby | 5.10c/d | 35ft | |||
29 | Cut The Cord | 5.10b | 30ft |
1.2. Planet of the Apes Wall
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 34.097654, -118.729056
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Planet of the Apes | 5.11a | ||||
2 | ★ Grape Ape | 5.9 | ||||
3 | ★ Christmas Pump | 5.10a | ||||
4 | ★ Spike | 5.10c | ||||
5 | ★★ Spider Monkey | 5.11b | ||||
6 | ★★ Finger Prints | 5.11a | ||||
7 | ★★★ The Crack | 5.11c | ||||
8 | Leftist Gorilla | 5.12b | ||||
9 | Gorilla Warfare | 5.12b | ||||
10 | Apes of Wrath | 5.12d | ||||
11 | Shock The Monkey | 5.10b | 60ft | |||
12 | Birthday Boy | 5.11a/b | 70ft | |||
13 | Gorilla Of My Dreams | 5.12a | ||||
14 | Spank The Monkey | 5.11d | 70ft | |||
15 | Monkey Sang, Monkey Do | 5.11c | 70ft | |||
16 | Monkey Business | 5.12b | ||||
17 | Simian Survival | 5.13a | ||||
18 | Walking On The Moon | 5.11b |
1.3. The power station!
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ the grid
Traverse out over the water, work into a chimney & exit over the bulge onto the steep face above. FA: Matt Oliphant, Bill Leventhal & Jeff Constine | 5.10a FB:5A | 75ft | |||
2 |
rolling blackout
Very steep for its grade. The second route on the Power wall. Very asthetic climbing & great rock on this one! FA: Bill Leventhal & Matt Oliphant | 5.10d D | 82ft | |||
3 | power puff girls | 5.9 | 82ft | |||
4 | power ranger | 5.10a | 82ft | |||
5 | electric eye | 5.10c | 82ft | |||
6 |
Power Station
The first route on the wall! Very steep for the grade! FA: Bill Leventhal & Matt Oliphant | 5.10 FB:5B | 56ft |
1.4. Stumbling Blocks
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 34.095950, -118.730160
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Chopping Block | 5.8 | ||||
2 | ★★ The Third Degree | 5.10b | ||||
3 | OVER THE FALLS | 5.11d | ||||
4 | VIGILANTE | 5.11a | ||||
5 | GUERRILLA DRILLA | 5.10a | 69ft | |||
6 | THE THIRD DEGREE | 5.10b | ||||
7 | ★★ X-FILES | 5.10c | ||||
8 | ★★ MR. BIG | 5.10d | 36ft | |||
9 | ★★ NIPPLE DENIAL SYNDROME | 5.11b | ||||
10 | LETTERBOX | 5.11c | ||||
11 | BLOCKBUSTER | 5.11a | ||||
12 | NEW RELEASE | 5.12a | ||||
13 | Monkey Mayhem | 5.5 | 72ft, 5 | |||
14 | Hot Lips | 5.12a | 30ft | |||
15 | Waiting For Guntes | 5.13a | 30ft | |||
16 | Cockblock | 5.10d | 40ft | |||
17 | Moonshiner | 5.9 | 70ft | |||
18 | Unknown | 5.9 | 60ft | |||
19 | ★ Prow | 5.9 | 66ft | |||
20 | Classic Face | 5.8 | 35ft | |||
21 | Chimps Ahoy | 5.10a | 80ft | |||
22 | Unkown Crack | V1 | 20ft |
1.5. Toddler Terrace
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 34.095338, -118.730181
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Grabnabber | 5.8 | 85ft, 8 | |||
2 | Bunny Hop | 5.7 | 40ft | |||
3 | Wheels On The Bus | 5.7 | 45ft | |||
4 | Banana Phone | 5.7 | 50ft |
1.6. Mount Gorgeous
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ K-2
Start on a boulder and go up the orange face. The crux is at the bottom. It feels like a boulder problem, once you clip the first bolt and top out onto the slabby part its all 5.6ish to the top. There is a little bulge after the second bolt so you can't see the next bolt or ancors, but once you pull over it you can see them. About half way between stumbling blocks and Mt. Gorgeous on the left side as you're heading up. FA: John Long | 5.9 | 40ft, 4 | |||
2 |
Born on the 4th of July
This route climbs the pocketed orange and brown face, twenty feet right of K-2. Climb onto a shelf above the base, clip the 1st bolt, and pull pockets over a bulge to more pockets, as the angle eases. Work up and left to the anchor shared with K-2. 5 bolts, shared anchor with K-2 FA: Chapman & Neal, 2013 | 5.8 | 52ft, 5 | |||
3 |
★★ Gorgeous
Really nice, solid climb, overhanging crux in the middle | 5.10b | ||||
4 | ★★ Family Jewel | 5.10 | ||||
5 |
★★ Pow! Right in the Kisser
Same angle as Luscious but without the deep bucket holds. After clipping the 4th bolt, traverse to the left using the sloper huecos (crux). Save enough for a second crux going from the 5th bolt to the anchor. Named for the tooth-chipping smack to the face delivered by a popped cam during the cleaning process. Turns out you can find a dentist at 2am if you need to. 5 bolts and double mussy hook chain anchor | 5.12a | 40ft, 5 | |||
6 |
★★ Luscious
Completely re-bolted (other than anchors) on 7/27/2019 FA: John Long & Joe Kristy, 2000 | 5.11b | 60ft, 5 | |||
7 | ★★ CAMEL STRAIGHT | 5.12a | ||||
8 | ★ CIG-ARETE | 5.11b | ||||
9 | ★ GORGEOUS | 5.10b | ||||
10 | ★★ FAMILY JEWEL | 5.10d | ||||
11 | ★★★ DELICIOUS | 5.11a |
1.7. Century Lake
- Summary:
-
29 routes in Area
Lat / Long: 34.097811, -118.734032
1.7.1. Mikey's Arete Wall
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Sector
Lat / Long: 34.097442, -118.734671
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Mikey's Arête | 5.5 | 30ft | |||
2 | Pidaras Klown's Undercling | 5.6 | 25ft | |||
3 | Take Two | 5.5 | 20ft |
1.7.2. Little Cheops
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Sector
Lat / Long: 34.098187, -118.733393
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Mummy | 5.10a/b | 40ft | |||
2 | Tut | 5.10a | 40ft | |||
3 | Scarab | 5.8 | 35ft |
1.7.3. The Power Wall
- Summary:
-
9 routes in Sector
Lat / Long: 34.098016, -118.733943
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Power Grid | 5.10a | 60ft | |||
2 | Power Station | 5.10b | 50ft | |||
3 | Rolling Blackout | 5.10c/d | 50ft | |||
4 | Power Outage | 5.11b | 50ft | |||
5 | Powder Puff Girls | 5.9 | 40ft | |||
6 | Power Ranger | 5.9 | 40ft | |||
7 | Electric Eye | 5.10c | 40ft | |||
8 | Unknown 2 | 5.10a | ||||
9 | Unknown 1 | 5.10a | 30ft |
1.7.4. White Trash Wall
- Summary:
-
4 routes in Sector
Lat / Long: 34.098038, -118.734333
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | White Trash | 5.13a PG13 | ||||
2 | Trailer Trash | 5.12b | 50ft | |||
3 | Trailer Park | 5.11c | 40ft | |||
4 | Bubba | 5.9 | 45ft |
1.7.5. The Water Wall
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Sector
Lat / Long: 34.098106, -118.734187
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Waterworld | 5.10b | ||||
2 | Waterboy | 5.10c PG13 | 50ft | |||
3 | Fissure Man | 5.10c | 50ft |
1.7.6. Lean To Boulder
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Sector
Lat / Long: 34.097700, -118.734336
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Pick Pocket | 5.11b | 40ft | |||
2 | Swamp Thing | 5.12 | ||||
3 | Secrets On A Stream | 5.10 |
1.7.7. Drifter Wall
- Summary:
-
4 routes in Sector
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Dark Star | 5.10d | 30ft | |||
2 | The Shadow | 5.11b | 30ft | |||
3 | Fallout | 5.11c | 50ft | |||
4 | The Drifter | 5.12a | 60ft |
1.8. Little Cheops
1.9. The Power Wall
1.10. The Wave Wall
- Summary:
-
6 routes in Sector
Lat / Long: 34.096120, -118.730984
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Kim Chi | 5.11d V3 | 25ft | |||
2 | Amphetamine | 5.11b | 70ft | |||
3 | Pocket Jones | 5.11c | 60ft | |||
4 | Pocket Pool | 5.11b | 70ft | |||
5 | Blast | 5.11a | 50ft | |||
6 | Miners Cat | 5.13a | 65ft |
1.11. Crags Road
- Summary:
-
7 routes in Sector
Lat / Long: 34.102410, -118.749751
1.11.1. Iceberg Boulder
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Sector
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Head O Lettuce | 5.8 | 60ft | |||
2 | Cracked Ice | 5.10a/b | 50ft | |||
3 | Iceberg Lettus | 5.11 | 50ft |
1.11.2. Lake Malibou Tower
- Summary:
-
1 route in Sector
Lat / Long: 34.102410, -118.749736
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Rapp Route | 5.8 |
1.11.3. Wedge
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Sector
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Thousand-Island | 5.9 | 40ft | |||
2 | Oil And Vinegar | 5.10a | 45ft | |||
3 | Blue Cheese | 5.11a | 45ft |
1.12. Mt. Gorgeous
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 34.095676, -118.729725
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | K-2 | 5.9 | 40ft | |||
2 | Born On The 4th Of July | 5.8 | 50ft | |||
3 | Pow! Right In The Kisser | 5.12a | 40ft | |||
4 | Luscious | 5.11b | 60ft | |||
5 | Camel Straight | 5.11c | ||||
6 | Cig-Arête | 5.11b | ||||
7 | Gorgeous | 5.10a | 60ft | |||
8 | Family Jewel | 5.10c | 50ft | |||
9 | Delicious | 5.10d | 85ft | |||
10 | Marauding Monkeys | 5.11a | 90ft | |||
11 | Build The Wall | 5.11c | 85ft | |||
12 | Burn The Wall | 5.11d | 95ft | |||
13 | Feel The Bern | 5.11b | 90ft | |||
14 | An Inconvenient Roof | 5.11c | ||||
15 | Climb It Changed | 5.10c/d | 70ft | |||
16 | The Phoenix | 5.12b | 50ft | |||
17 | Crack Horror | 5.11 | 70ft | |||
18 | Commitment Issues | 5.11d | 50ft | |||
19 | Swipe Right To Match | 5.11c | 70ft | |||
20 | Cialis Stud | 5.12a | 70ft | |||
21 | Joe's Bloody Finger Pocket | 5.11d | 85ft | |||
22 | Feats Of Strength | 5.12a | 50ft | |||
23 | Destination Dirtpipe | 5.12d | 50ft | |||
24 | Malibu's Most Wanted | 5.11b | 95ft | |||
25 | Choss Is A Ladder | 5.11d | 95ft | |||
26 | Simon Says | 5.12a | ||||
27 | Poison Stoke | 5.11d | 80ft | |||
28 | Seven Year (B)itch | 5.12c | 80ft | |||
29 | Weakened Warrior | 5.11c | 75ft | |||
30 | Eruption | 5.11c | 60ft | |||
31 | Dick Pics | 5.10b | 50ft | |||
32 | Wanna Get High? | 5.10+ | 95ft | |||
33 | Soy Boy | 5.9 | 45ft | |||
34 | Orange Mocha Frappuccino | 5.9 | 35ft |
1.13. Malibu Pinnacle
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Sector
Lat / Long: 34.097968, -118.732852
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Bruno Roots | 5.9 | 60ft | |||
2 | L.V.M.W.D | 5.9 | 60ft |
1.14. Gutterball Boulder
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 34.096035, -118.730443
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Pocketed Face | VB PG13 | 20ft | |||
2 | Gutterball | V1 PG13 | 20ft |
1.15. Niagara Fist Boulder
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 34.095884, -118.730484
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Niagara Fist | V1 R | 20ft | |||
2 | Anderson Problem | V4 R | 20ft |
1.16. Water Hazard Boulder
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
Lat / Long: 34.095229, -118.731255
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Water Hazard | V1 | 10ft |
1.17. Sink Or Swim Boulder
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 34.095208, -118.731386
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Lunge Or Plunge | V5 R | 15ft | |||
2 | Sink Or Swim / Crank Session Or Swim Lessons | V2 | 20ft |