Ascensions dans Zion National Park contenant Bêta

Coming back for the send

Took all the rests

Fell just before last clip

Really cool jug hauling. Very cold and nearly numbed out but hand warmers saved the OS. So good I did it twice!

Classic for a reason! What a wall and what a route. Turns out ladders are pretty hard when it's that steep. Unreal.

Pretty great! Hard gnarly gastons and an off balance throw above the first anchor. Rough warmup 😅

First pitch is really nice.

Just climbed the first pitch. Start is a bit sketchy but after that super nice hand jamming.

Nice route which is a bit more sandy than the others. Bolting is terrible (spaced,old,loose)

Amazing route in an amazing setting and good glued bolts.

Really tricky move with bad protection maybe 5 meters above the ground. Besides, really cool and steep climbing on the first pitch and nice (and a bit sketchy) patina climbing on the second pitch

Superb route, good protection and really good rock quality. Good mixture of crack climbing and face climbing around the cracks.

Very memorable route. Super improbable to be able to step around the arete into a 110m crack leadi g straight to the top of red arch! The offwidth felt surprisingly good.. i might think about not aiding all of them. Wasnt as much sand on this route for tony to complain about but the weather forecasters provided an excuse. Clear skies they said, we certainly picked up the pace on the last pitch when thunder started cracking over our heads. We lost all that time and more on the rap by getting the tag line hopelessly tangled in the climbing rope on all the biner block raps. We both tried to tell ourselves the tag line was necessary but some retrobolted anchors meant it could have been done with a single 70. Fook.

Easily the best rock climb I've ever been on ! A very faff filled three days of exhaustion! First I jumped in on Shane and toms plan to climb to the crux and fix to the ground. Then I didn't feel like I could leave without atleast trying to crux pitch + above. Lucky Caleb wasn't Farr away. So we came back and climbed up the the crux and I had two shots. Felt close but just didn't have the endurance! Then the next day was absolutely faffy and we both got pretty exhausted. So keen to come back to this !

crazy steep sandy jug hauling

Some of the worst bolting I've ever seen. Glue in U bolts should definitely be used here. Sketchy

Not what we came for but what we came for required 74 purple cams and 268 greens as per usual so we popped the zion cherry with a bolted arete. Some pretty unique movement and shuddering mantles which were fun. Tony wasnt psyched on the sandy holds, but with zions reputation id feel cheated if we got indian creek standard rock. Jumped on a very intreguing route called inner chi. Placing .2s in sandy flares then blasting face moves to slopers 2m to the right might have been a little too zion. Encountered a 1m long rattlesnake (a hissa) next to the bags. Tony got some photos while it sat in a perfect coil, patiently waiting for him to get the perfect shot for wild country to steal for their website.

Crux pitch

Super physical and mental for current myself.

I might write something longer and more pretentious about this at some point. Gwen onsighted the route except for the jump off the rocker block which took her a go or two.

Awesome and soft.

Incredible crack moves

40m of steep jugs with a crimpy finish.

Cool jugs to cruise up to the big hole to get a good rest, easy afterwards. A 60m rope brings you down.

Massive warmup pump, should have done Dost Misread before. Hardest moves before the third bolt, afterwards you just have to keep it together and shake out the pump at the huge jugs.

The best route in Zion!

Pitch 1 starts with 5.11+ strenuous lieack/finger corner, massive warmup pump. Pitch 2, short steep 5.9 to the next ledge. Linked 3-5 in one huge chimney/off-width pitch (coming out of the chimney is the hardest, A0 with sling from above). Pitch 6 starts with a little down-climbing then up to a bolt and past a crimpy 5.11- traverse. Best to ignore the bolted belay and rather build one around the arete at the base of the crack. Steep fingers to hand through the 5.11+ money pitch to a one bolt belay with excellent #1 as back-up. Last long 5.9 pitch to the top.

Clean aid ascent of moonlight buttress (8h from base to top). What a great line! Lead P1, P3,P4, Follow P2,P5, 6+7, 8+9.

Short but felt burly. Great route to start on here

Thoroughly enjoyable sandstone jamming. Was a bit of a journey through the wide section and a grovel into the groove

bailed

Blew it on the long reach