Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mar 28 Mai 2024 - Paliochori | ||||||
The nest | ||||||
6c |
★★ Masl ap ston tako
![]() | ★★ Excellent | ||||
A variation with its own crux being the traverse to pass to trafos, nice one.
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7a |
★★★ 1-2-3 niaou
![]() | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Did it last year, avoids the first blank boulder problem of mpampatzianiki and has some amazing moves on the arête.
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Mar 28 Mai 2024 - Paliochori | ||||||
Kremala | ||||||
7a |
★★★ Megas trapos
![]() | 28m, 11 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Did it last year, amazing finishing overhanging crux.
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Mar 28 Mai 2024 - Paliochori | ||||||
Pitsili beach | ||||||
7a |
★★ George costanza
![]() | 35m, 17 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Did it last year nice one used knee pad
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7a |
★★ One kick
![]() | 35m, 14 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Done it last year, hard crux on the top with some hard to clip draws and some quick decisions.
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7c/c+ |
★★★ Vivere pericolosamente
![]() | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Did it last year, went directly on the first crux ,i think its a bit easier than 8a, 7c/+ is my suggestion.
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Lun 20 Mai 2024 - Nestani | ||||||
Voulomeni | ||||||
6c |
★ Κόμπλα
![]() | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Nice bouldery route, even though the bolting is dense, in the crux its intimidating for the onsight making you do the crux unclipped and having to clip the next bolt once you are almost over it. Its seems though that there used to be a bolt just at the right place so you could have some sense of security while doing this slabby move but it was rebolted?? in this way. Anyhow go for the os if you put the quickdraws from the adjacent route 😛
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Lun 20 Mai 2024 - Lagada | ||||||
Aloni | ||||||
6c |
★★ Hrisomallon Deras
![]() | 30m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Did the crux but bailed afterwards didn't want to climb on a polished corner in this heatwave and with committing run-outs.
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6b+ |
★★ Kremasmenos Tragos
![]() | 25m, 11 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Last of the day could have gone but was to tired to stay on the holds waiting for the person on the left to stop stepping on the shared holds that i wanted to go...
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6b+ |
★★ Gerokoutsouris
![]() | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Did the crux but misread the last part and went to a blank part, the best of the easiest of this sector.
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6b |
★ Xeroelatos
![]() | 25m, 10 | ★ Bon | |||
5b |
★ Shake It
![]() | 18m, 8 | ★★ Excellent | |||
5b+ |
★★ Moro Mou Sorry
![]() | 18m, 8 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Lun 20 Mai 2024 - Lagada | ||||||
Petsanes | ||||||
6a+ |
★ Lykos tou Ragia
![]() | 30m | ||||
Dirty and very close to its left neighbour, i would put the bolts more to the right so people would climb directly into the overhang making it harder but much better.
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5c |
★ Lykourgos
![]() | 20m, 10 | Dans la moyenne | |||
Dirty and very close to its right neighbour
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5c+ |
★★ Leonidas
![]() | 30m | ★★ Excellent | |||
6a+ |
★★ The 300
![]() | 25m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
The best of this side if the crag
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6b+ |
★★ Dionysos
![]() | 25m | ★★ Excellent | |||
6b |
Orea Eleni
![]() | 25m | Dans la moyenne | |||
To do a 6b you need to bypass the crux to the left on the adjacent route, if you stay in the route expect a hard 6c
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6b |
★★ Menelaos
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classique | |||
6a+ |
★★★ Ermione
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Dim 10 Mars 2024 - Solomos | ||||||
6b+ |
★★ Grifos
![]() | 20m, 10 | ★★ Excellent | |||
6c/c+ ~6c |
★★ Antonis
![]() | 15m | ★ Bon | |||
Slabby climbing, a foothold broke and lost the os. 6c/+ according to the bolter seems more appropriate
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6c+ |
★★★ Tsaperdona
![]() | 30m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Very very beautiful.
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Sam 9 Mars 2024 - Solomos | ||||||
6c+ |
★★ Enigma
![]() | 25m, 10 | ★★ Excellent | |||
A bit vegetated at parts and no chalk plus a main hold was blocked by dirt-wasp nest, so very hard to read for the os. Cleaned it and left chalk so good for the os now,at least before the next rain,but hard comparing even with the 7a's at the right part of the crag.
Beautiful wall climbing though.
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6a+ |
★★ Filandia
![]() | 24m, 14 | ★★★ Classique | |||
6b |
★★★ Trabakoulas
![]() | 28m, 12 | ★★★ Classique | |||
6b+ |
★★ Grifos
![]() | 20m, 10 | ★★ Excellent | |||
The main hold at the end of the crux was blocked by dirt nest and had to bail at the os, all cleaned now.
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Sam 6 Jan 2024 - Zaloggo | ||||||
Koloneta | ||||||
6b+/c |
★★★ The strugglers
![]() | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Another newbie, a classic to be tufa fest with an easy to spot crux and easier moves on the rest of the route. A bit harder than its 6b+ neighbour to the right so 6b+/c .
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5c+/6a |
★★ Lepista nuda
![]() | 18m, 7 | ||||
New additions to this wonderful crag, the easiest so far but very beautiful nevertheless. A good intro for the sector.
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Jeu 28 Déc 2023 - Pietra di Bismantova | ||||||
Sasso Diamante Sasso Diamante | ||||||
5c |
★★ Mano Bianca
![]() | 10m | ★★ Excellent | |||
5b |
★ Ciap
![]() | 10m | ★ Bon | |||
6a |
★ La guida
![]() | 10m | ||||
6c |
★ Ale' Ale' Ale'
![]() | 10m | ||||
Too hard for a 6c
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Jeu 28 Déc 2023 - Monsummano | ||||||
Cava Rossa | ||||||
6a+ |
★★ La setta dell' 8a
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classique | |||
6b |
★★★ Caterina
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classique | |||
5c |
★★ Fessure oblique
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classique | |||
5b |
★★ Les Diables
![]() | 13m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Dim 3 Déc 2023 - Merenda | ||||||
Kato Merenda | ||||||
6a+ |
★★ Fidelio
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★ Bon | |||
6a |
★★ Francky Wild
![]() | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
6c+ |
★★ Mary Popins
![]() | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Sam 2 Déc 2023 - Solomos | ||||||
6b |
★★ Trypitsa Ext.
![]() | 45m, 15 | ★★★ Classique | |||
5b |
★★ Trypitsa
![]() | 20m, 10 | ★★ Excellent | |||
6c |
★★ Gripi
![]() | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classique | |||
The last jug before the anchor needs cleaning with a hammer cause it's blocked from wasp nests.
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5c+ |
★★ Lais
![]() | 26m, 13 | ★★★ Classique | |||
6b+ |
★★ Mavri Apolafsi ext.
![]() | 28m, 13 | ★★ Excellent | |||
5b |
★★ Mavri Apolafsi
![]() | 14m, 7 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Jeu 20 Juil 2023 - Paliochori | ||||||
Deos lower | ||||||
7a Difficile |
Morchella esculenta
![]() | 25m, 11 | ||||
A long and enjoyable route right on the edge of the canyon on a magnificent place, with lots of endurancy moves that culminate at a hard rock over to get over the lip and to the final slab. Hard
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Sam 15 Juil 2023 - Parnitha | ||||||
Korakofolia Main Wall | ||||||
7c |
★★ Thima
![]() | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Lost the trail and did 40min approach instead of 10 at maybe the hottest day of the summer (40 degrees at the crag), decided to try this one😛😛 did most of the moves most of the crux was impossible in this heat....at least we had korakofolia all to ourselves in a summer day a rarity but makes a lot of sense.
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Jeu 13 Juil 2023 - Paliochori | ||||||
Deos lower | ||||||
7a/a+ |
Einai exthros mou
![]() | 20m, 9 | ||||
A hard traverse right after the crux makes for the grade 7a/+
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6c/c+ |
★★ Einai filos mou
![]() | 15m, 6 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Some morpho moves at the crux
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7a |
★★★ Tsipouro probatina 8a se ena mina
![]() | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Another short beauty
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7a+ |
★★ Verpa bohemica
![]() | 15m, 7 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Power endurance
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6c |
★★ Verpa conica
![]() | 15m, 6 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Shortie but unforgiving
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6b+/c |
★★★ Los zombies hippies
![]() | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Very beautiful cruxy finale on pockets
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6b+ |
★★ Primula vulgaris
![]() | 20m, 9 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Endurancy first part and cryxy finale
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6b/b+ |
★★ Art Vandelay
![]() | 20m, 9 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Hard start to cruxy water groove
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Jeu 13 Juil 2023 - Paliochori | ||||||
Natural mystic | ||||||
7a/a+ |
★★ Blocololopoulos
![]() | 20m, 9 | ★★ Excellent | |||
a hard power endurance crux a bit morpho 7a/+
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Jeu 13 Juil 2023 - Paliochori | ||||||
Pitsili beach | ||||||
6c |
★★ Mikros timpanistis
![]() | 30m, 14 | ★★ Excellent | |||
long and enjoyable moves on tufa territory
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6a+ |
★★ Mikros timpanistis (first part)
![]() | 18m | ★★ Excellent | |||
an airy crux on good holds nice one
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7c |
★★★ Madly dangerous
![]() | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Super classique | |||
one of the best power endurance routes i have ever climbed, 2 very diferrent parts with minimum rest and very beatyfull moves a must.
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7b |
★★★ Leno in pericolo
![]() | 15m, 9 | ★★ Excellent | |||
The first crux of vivere pericolosmente, a hard slab on very thin long moves on small crimps and ver bad feet. Not classic cause its a bit morpho thus the slash grade.
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Sam 8 Juil 2023 - Kanjon Resave, Beljanica | ||||||
Opservatorija | ||||||
6b |
Aj ti
![]() | Dans la moyenne | ||||
Lost in the upper part had some choss and need cleaning , very beautiful first part
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7b+ |
★★ Galileo
![]() | 9m, 6 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Did all the moves apart the first draw that was wet
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6a |
★★ Tiho Brahe
![]() | 9m, 7 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Very beautiful route unfortunately wet in parts
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Jeu 6 Juil 2023 - Niševačka klisura, Svrljig | ||||||
Ždrelo Crvena ploča | ||||||
7c |
★★★ Agonija
![]() | 11m, 6 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Very nice wall climbing, tried to get an idea of the difficulty. Did the second easier part foumd out most of the moves in the first one, impossible to do them in this heat.
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Jeu 6 Juil 2023 - Sofia | ||||||
Vitosha Kominite Goren komin Iztochno krilo | ||||||
4b |
★★★ Roshavoto
![]() | 45m, 15 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Led first pitch
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Mar 4 Juil 2023 - Kostenets | ||||||
Nad patya | ||||||
6b+ |
★★★ WiFi
![]() | 16m, 9 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Saw some locals trying it anf gave a flash try. Sometimes is better to trust your initial thoughts cause i saw them trying to do the crux from the right side that is a very hard beta and definitely not 6b+. Instead my thoughts where to stay on the direct to left side.
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6a |
★★★ Gushter v kosata
![]() | 17m, 10 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Very very beautiful especially in thr arete
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5c+ |
★★ Defitsitna radost za naroda
![]() | 28m, 13 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Long and enjoyable
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6a+ |
★★★ Hotel Kalifornia
![]() | 30m, 14 | ★ Bon | |||
Very average and slimy first part but amazing laybacking second.
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Mar 6 Juin 2023 - Paliochori | ||||||
Pitsili beach | ||||||
7b |
★★★ Papa al.
![]() | 10m, 5 | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Finally this highball went down, 7a+ if you have the flexibility of a yoga teacher like the first ascender, 7b for "normal" people. But for me very very hard i don't know if it were for the very bad conditions or if this route was just a bad nemesis for me. Gave it so many tries like i would in a route above the 8a grade and in the end the send try was a very bad one i had to dig very deep and it never felt easy as it would normally feel in any other route after so many tries.
Hopefully it ended and now i can focus on some harder projects that will go down in less tries😁.
As for the climbing a superb marble highball if i graded as a boulder i would say 7A. Kneepads are needed
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Dim 9 Avr 2023 - Orbetello | ||||||
Canne d'organo Settore Grotta | ||||||
7a |
★★ Senza via di scampo
![]() | 14m | ★★ Excellent | |||
A bit confusing but when you find the right beta very nice, felt easier.
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6a |
★★ Via dello scampo
![]() | 90m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Nice route
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Jeu 23 Fév 2023 - Kastritsa | ||||||
kastritsa Right Tekmon The raccoons | ||||||
7a |
★ Schaeffer
![]() | 20m, 9 | ★ Bon | |||
The direct variation of the crux of Cyril sneer, a hard 6B+ boulder prob. on a small incut but slippery crimp. Needs cold temps and maybe harder for the short.
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Dim 22 Jan 2023 - Parnitha | ||||||
Fyli Climbing Park Alogopetra area Pano Alogopetra | ||||||
6c |
★★ Koulouvahata
![]() | 27m, 10 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Very nice wall climbing
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6a+ |
★★ Kolosseo
![]() | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Nice one
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6c |
★★ Babylino
![]() | 12m, 5 | ★ Bon | |||
Didn't read it well , but wouldn't have gone cause of the very polished footholds at the crux, found a beta fir the crux without the polished section.
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Sam 21 Jan 2023 - Ermionida | ||||||
Thermissia Castle Venetian Wall | ||||||
6a |
★★ In the Red Corner
![]() | 18m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Strange start helps if you're flexible and then a really nice crack.
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7a |
★★★ The Leading Edge (direct)
![]() | 14m | ★★★ Classique | |||
A hard traverse on smears to reach the arete, could have gone if it weren't for the heavy winds
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Sam 21 Jan 2023 - Ermionida | ||||||
Katafyki Ravine Welcome | ||||||
6c+ |
★★★ Sidestep
![]() | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classique | |||
6c on thd free local guide, really nice crux moves on the overhanging corner, easier after that but enjoyable
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7a |
★★★ Savage Girl
![]() | 30m, 11 | ★★★ Classique | |||
7a in the local free guidebook, very nice climbing with 3 cruxes with the late 2 on desperate wall moves.
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Mer 18 Jan 2023 - Aliakmonas | ||||||
7a |
★ Karagiozis/Karagiozakos
![]() | 20m, 10 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Followed the chalk and lost the os, a bit slippery and polished crack. Later found much easier beta than the one used for the crux but due to rain and cold didn't give a proper attempt.
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6b |
★★ Moggolian street
![]() | 70m, 20 | ★ Bon | |||
First pitch only 5c
|
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Dim 4 Déc 2022 - Nafplio | ||||||
Kato Kosmos | ||||||
7b+ |
★★★ Kerberos
![]() | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Even though i was very tired i went to see it bolt to bolt to check the grades of my f.a. back home. I managed to do all the moves and would have gone second max third try if i was at 100%. Amazing route on tufas not that hard to os if you have thd power.
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6b+/c |
★★ Hermes
![]() | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Lost it cause the rope stuck at the tufa otherwise very good.
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6c |
★★ Hades
![]() | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Another classic, amazing moves on tufas.
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6c+ |
★★ Acherontas
![]() | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Hard to os + no chalk but i read it good and did the crux but didn't have the Juice necessary to finish it after 7 days climbing in a row so i lost it at the last moves before the anchor. Amazing route tricky to os but no that hard overall a must for sure.
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5c+/6a |
★★ Samsara
![]() | 16m, 7 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Very beautiful
|
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Sam 3 Déc 2022 - Parnitha | ||||||
Fyli Climbing Park EPOS Fylis / Mikri Varassova EPOS Fylis | ||||||
5c+ |
★★ Iliovasilema
![]() | 23m, 10 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Again felt easier but real nice
|
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5c |
★★ Panselinos
![]() | 21m, 12 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Felt much easier but nice
|
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6c |
★★ Arpages
![]() | 30m, 10 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Hard to os specially if you follow the chalk, found easier beta after i fell. Not that hard considering that the rest of the route is easygoing but harder than the other 6c of the sector.
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Ven 2 Déc 2022 - Kastritsa | ||||||
kastritsa Right Tekmon The raccoons | ||||||
6a+/b |
★★ Mr mammoth
![]() | 30m, 16 | ★★ Excellent | |||
The latest addition at "raccoons" sector, long and enjoyable with crux on long moves on jugs.
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Mar 29 Nov. 2022 - Kastritsa | ||||||
kastritsa Right Tekmon Tekmon Main | ||||||
7b+/c |
★★★ Unfazed
![]() | 32m, 11 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Really hard to grade this one, hard 7a+ till the last bolt and with a hard very technical boulder problem that finishes with huge foot-off swing on sloppery/slippery "jugs" to get to the anchor. For sure very morpho and my style totally so will leave it at 7b+/c for now.
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Dim 13 Nov. 2022 - Kastritsa | ||||||
kastritsa Right Tekmon The raccoons | ||||||
5b+ |
★★ Sophia tutu
![]() | 12m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | |||
A new addition, slab start to pocketed wall. A good warm-up for the sector or a good route for the first lead.
|
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Dim 13 Nov. 2022 - Kastritsa | ||||||
kastritsa Right Tekmon Tekmon Main | ||||||
7b+ |
★★★ Tony the Tiger
![]() | 30m, 14 | ★★★ Super classique | |||
A contender for the best route of the crag: slab and tufas start to hard crimpy first crux to overhang on good holds with desperate balancy slab finish second crux to overhanging finale... An amazing route that needs finger strength, good footwork/flexibility and endurance.
|
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Dim 25 Sept 2022 - Pades | ||||||
First Area middle | ||||||
6b |
★ Nimo
![]() | 20m, 9 | ★ Bon | |||
Hard slab bouldery start then easier slab.
|
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Sam 17 Sept 2022 - Paliochori | ||||||
The nest | ||||||
6b 6b/b+ |
★★ Tsoumpa flor
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Bolted this one for the boulder problem in the start, a marble delicacy. After that a very easy slab to the anchor.
|
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Sam 17 Sept 2022 - Paliochori | ||||||
Kremala | ||||||
6c |
★★ Verliga
![]() | 15m, 6 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Starts with the first 2 bolts of tsoukarela and then continues to the left. A hard but with beautiful marble features middle part with a crux involving a small 2 finger pocket.
|
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Mar 13 Sept 2022 - Paliochori | ||||||
The nest | ||||||
7a+ |
★★ G.furnaris
![]() | 30m, 13 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Very hard bouldery start and unfortunately very morphological for the short every other alternative beta is very very hard. One of those routes that u enjoy only when u send and never try again.
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