Ascensioni di Hourglass

Wet and sandy holds weren't doing it for me

Doable for me Right and left side pulls. Then with some commitment to a sid big jug.

Fun! Keen to come back and get all the way up.

Fun start with a very committing reach followed by good climbing. Awkward clipping on the last two bolts.

epic route, first 22

Trying the short person beta this time

oops, sent Sean up this as his warmup telling him it was pornflakes.

failed the crux at the start by throwing RH up to a nothing sloper. 2nd try on the move I used the RH pocket as a side-pull while tenuously reaching LH straight up.

Cruxy lower section leads into fun, easy climb. Think it is more like 21 personally.

Feels like a V2/V3 bouldering problem followed by 2 grade 18 sport climbs, too soft for 22 but could earn the grade if only climb the face and skip corners?

Figured out the short person beta, didn't send it though

The tall person beta seems to make this route a little easier than previous comments on this route would suggest. On the first crux I could reach the good holds just balancing up from the bad pocket near the second bolt. On the second crux I used a foot hold which was crucial and made the move quite easy for me.

The move after the 2nd clip is very tricky and took me a few tries. The trick was jamming the foot more and just standing up, in spite of terrible hands.

very soft for a 22, but fun moves.

Third was the lucky one,this time everything felt well and I had great time in the wall.

Second attempt was better and learnt how to pass the crux plus explored the whole route to the top. I found a second crux for me at the small roof, my belayer did that every time easily so I'm assuming it is a bit of anti style move for me, need to work on that and learn to climb when there is no obvious footholds.

I was not able to pass the crux after several attempts and big finger tips suffering.

Lockdown climb

warm up thought it was porn flakes ahaha second 22 onsite!