Ascensioni di Hourglass

warm up thought it was porn flakes ahaha second 22 onsite!

very soft for a 22, but fun moves.

Awesome new route. Tricky start then fun the rest of the way

Second shot, not too hard at the grade, tricky start then cool moves through the roof

The tall person beta seems to make this route a little easier than previous comments on this route would suggest. On the first crux I could reach the good holds just balancing up from the bad pocket near the second bolt. On the second crux I used a foot hold which was crucial and made the move quite easy for me.

Cruxy lower section leads into fun, easy climb. Think it is more like 21 personally.

epic route, first 22

Fun start with a very committing reach followed by good climbing. Awkward clipping on the last two bolts.

Figured out the short person beta, didn't send it though

Third was the lucky one,this time everything felt well and I had great time in the wall.

Feels like a V2/V3 bouldering problem followed by 2 grade 18 sport climbs, too soft for 22 but could earn the grade if only climb the face and skip corners?

Lockdown climb

Doable for me Right and left side pulls. Then with some commitment to a sid big jug.

Just fell at the very thin start after picking the wrong side (choose right or left, then stick to your plan). Got the rest clean.

Second attempt was better and learnt how to pass the crux plus explored the whole route to the top. I found a second crux for me at the small roof, my belayer did that every time easily so I'm assuming it is a bit of anti style move for me, need to work on that and learn to climb when there is no obvious footholds.

The move after the 2nd clip is very tricky and took me a few tries. The trick was jamming the foot more and just standing up, in spite of terrible hands.

oops, sent Sean up this as his warmup telling him it was pornflakes.

failed the crux at the start by throwing RH up to a nothing sloper. 2nd try on the move I used the RH pocket as a side-pull while tenuously reaching LH straight up.

Trying the short person beta this time

Wet and sandy holds weren't doing it for me

I was not able to pass the crux after several attempts and big finger tips suffering.

Fun! Keen to come back and get all the way up.