Vie in Eyre Peninsula

Marked with ERC at the base of the climb.

The strenuous diagonal crack 3m from the L end of the wall. (This sounds like a free ascent of the previous route, possibly before the bolts.)

After the bouldery start, head up slightly R to a V-notch at the top.

Much tried in '76. Several metres L of G a diagonal line leads to a roof-capped slab. Go to it.

Much tried in '76. Several metres left of G a diagonal line leads to a roof-capped slab.Go to it.

This was assumed to be a different climb when first attempted by Wimbush & Garrett, with the description below given: Airtime likely on this one. Start at the scoops marked with GA at the bottom and follow the overhanging flake and corner up to the roof and then traverse right to top out. Take some micro cams to protect the traverse.

Climb the middle of the wall 2m R of G.

Begin L of the graffiti and a few metres R of M. Dash up the overhanging wall R of the shallow rib following bolts. Over the nose to an easier finish.

Climb the wall 1m R of the 'Joe/col' graffiti on jugs to reach a short tapering crack and ledge. The thin crack above is no pushover either.

Jugs 2m R of KC lead to testing face climbing.

Bolted face route just R of T.

The crack 2m R of DO.

Good climbing 1m R of S.

Begin on the L side of the overhanging buttress. Traverse R to scoops in the face then follow the line to the top.

Unprotected and undercut arete between S...nake and SJC.

The outstanding direct route up the centre of the main face.

Easy to the obvious ledge, then delicate face climbing on small flakes (crux). Balancy moves to the top and easy finish.

Could do with bolting.

A quality route on the right side of the blank wall. Follow the crack and corner.

Initialled. Stout crack leads to an overhang

The juggy arete 3m to the R provides a variant start to Jabberwocky.

Start as for Twilight Sailing and head up and L across the wall with minimal protection. Finish up the arete.

Follow bolts up the wall L of Victorian's Crack.

Initialled. The superb looking crackline unfortunately has only a few metres of climbing at the grade. You can't miss it.

Start 4m R of Victorian's Crack. Small holds to faint crack. Mantel over wide horizontal gap then undercling to stance. Bridge to small toe-hold, then up mossy rock.

Initialled, 7m R of Victorian's Crack. Start up the crack then finish L up the ramp.

Start as for Tiny Titties but move 50cm R and finish straight up the crack.

Sit start in the back left of the cave with good heel hook. Blast along left then out into the roof with a good cross and some fun moves, match on the large jug on the lip

Project starting at back right side of cave and finishing in same spot as Handle me

Project

Start in the huge roof-jug in the black streak, move up through the holds in the black streak and out.

Start in the jug at back of cave, make big move out to roof flake, another big move to the start jug of Shortwave and up. Maybe around V4?

Starting RH on rounded lip and LH on jug of Shortwave, head out sideways towards the black part of the rock

Sit-start under the levitating "head" of the boulder and layback your way up.

Really fun and unique off-width crack climb. Low start with hands around the bottom corner and feet where feet often don't go, then flex your way up.

Jump start and mantle past the high and impossibly blank surface. Sit-start variant may go at about V40.

Stand start on the ledge towards the left of the boulder. Up on good small holds with smears.

Start one foot on a poor smear, with an even worse hand hold (palm the vaguely sloping hint of a ledge). Go directly up, avoiding moving into the good holds on Easy Up or Dangerous Currents. Top out passing by two giant but entirely unhelpful jugs.

Stand-start on the good diagonal ledge, up onto good small sloper hold and top out.

Tricky sit-start with hands in the shallow vertical crack, follow the crack up.

80m south of Freak Waves on the same wall. Start both hands on upside down V. Up to large flake, high heel then mantle to lip. Avoid on large swell days.

On boulder towards south of beach just before you reach the big flat opening. Sit-start with one hand on the big low jug, other hand wherever. Hard move off the ground, then easier top out.

Sit start on the prominent right-hand flake in middle of boulder and up.

Or possibly both. Stand start on the blankest section of the boulder, using shallow sidepull crimp and left-hand smear in feature to right. Slap up to sloper top and up.

Excellent flaring crack on the large clearing at the south end of the beach. Stand start in thin finger crack and up into wider jams.

Right hand crimp, set up left toe with left hand and match hands. Use crimps to the top out.

Sit start on jugs at left end of wall, straight up. Good warm up

Sit start as for Freya, traverse right for 3m then up and out through big moves on big jugs

Sit start as for Freya and traverse across right but high on the jugs, same top out as Embassy

Sit start in the middle of the wall below corner. Blast out through overhang and turn the lip into the corner with some serious contorting of the body

Same as Embasy traverse but continue all the way across and exit out Corner Contortion

Project that traverse the entire wall left to right

Small problem above and right of the Mecca wall. Small fun techy slab

Start on left hand end of wall, traverse right for 4m into the corner and finish up crack attack.

Sit start on low side pull (R-hand) and edge (L-hand), up crack with a finger lock or two and top out.

Either up crack attack and bust right into power undercling and up or straight up into power undercling via jump or hard moves. Still needs to be rectified with Vaughn

A great outing up the main line on the wall! This highball can be wet or slimey, be sure to clean and chalk holds and place a mat on the rock behind you.

Stand start matched on good rail, either throw for the slopey ledge or use sidepulls/underclings and other things. Up on jugs to a slopey top out and mantle, exit left or right at the top.

A traverse that is Fontainebleau esk. Start matched on the right end of the wall on large jug, make a tricky move to the start of the sloper rail. Chalk up and hang on somehow, head left all the way to the end of the sloper ledge. Link-ups into Napisan and others still to be done.

Good entry level sloper problem, if it was in an area away from the sea with excellent friction it would be V2. Super fun!

Sit start on jug on left hand end of slab, straight up large crack.

The middle slab problem, 1m right of Jess's sit start.

Stand start in the middle of the wall on two small slimpers, right foot on the worst sloper in the world. Balance up to start, straight up and mantle out, great problem!

Alternate and easier start for Solutions. start out right, after a couple of moves head left and finish up Solutions.

The following problems are directly behind Diamond slab.

Spearhead climbs the overhanging knife blade from right to left and top's out. Be careful of the awkward landings. Start with left hand on small positive underlung and right hand on first good edge on the knife blade. With a heel on hold tension and get established on the knifeblade, traverse left and around, mantle top out. Awesome fun!

Sit start and start off the undercling still to be added, both will be very hard! possibly V9-12

Start on the left hand side of this boulder on a good rail, throw a heel up next to your hand, move right to the arete and finish up with the same mantle as Spearhead.

overhanging crack with finger locks just left of Spearhead. Closed project

Finger crack on large diamond feature, it is on the back of the crack project (facing the sea). Closed project

The following problems are on the small wall (Swirl Wall) just past the Chasm.

Sit start on jugs on left hand end of wall, straight up

Start as for Frog legs and traverse up and right along the rail, top out.

Sit start at right end of wall with undercling and edge on face. Traverse left to the middle of the wall and top out on jugs.

Sit start as for Rainbow Paddle Pop, then traverse all the way to Frog Legs and up and out.

The following routes are in the chasm just around from Swirl Wall.

Sit start on large jug on the far right of wall. Traverse left with great moves on edges and good feet. On the final rail go straight up to slopers and make hard top out

This problem is the final moves of Chasm Spasm.

Stand start on rail in middle of wall, straight up and out on slopers

Stand start on rail as for Slap Chasm, but instead make a hard move left to sidepull and exit out through large crack

Sit start as for Chasm Spasm, traverse all the way across left and keep going to finish out through Chicken swing ding

This boulder (Shane's Boulder) and the following 3 problems are on the first small boulder located along the stretch.

Sit start on big jugs on leftside of boulder, straight up and out

Sit start under roof at the back, traverse out left along crack/lip and mantle up and out to finish in the same spot as MK Warm Up

Sit start as for Shanes Traverse then make hard moves right through roof and flop over the lip

This boulder (Gluten Free Boulder) is 50m up (North) of Shanes Boulder.

Gluten Free Cigarettes stand starts on the lowest big jug on overhang. Big moves on jugs to top out

Sit start on small side pull and crimp below Gluten Free Doobies. Make hard first move to big jug on gluten free doobies and finish up this

This boulder (Baby face boulder) and the following two routes are 50-80m up (North) from Gluten Free Boulder.

Easy beginner problems with loads of variants.

Sit start on jug on the left, feet on big boulder to the right. Up and left

Sit start on jug on the left, feet on big boulder to the right. Up and right and out.

Sit start to Barny, desperate! RH same for Barny stand, left hand on good sidepull. Open project