★★★ Cock Crack 20

Marked by the initials "AA" for Artificial Aura, which was the climb's actual name (so named because it looked so ridiculously hard, but actually went quite easily). The route, however, had been named Cock Crack, and through the ages, no doubt due to Alzheimer's, alcohol and drug abuse, the names were swapped and Cock Crack was re-born! Climb the widening hand crack to a stance. Up the wide section by chimney moves or very classy and thin bridging to where the crack closes again. Motor up the brilliant crack and arete on super holds to finish. Big gear essential. Finish at the chains for Infinity.

Frog is seen by some as the last bastion of "hard man" ethics in Qld. It features predominantly naturally protected crack climbing of the highest quality.

Therefore it is not Kangaroo Point or Nowra, and anybody expecting to come to Frog on a sport climbing mission should pack up their draws and lycra pants and go back there. Retro bolting is severely frowned upon, and bolts are to be placed only on first ascents if there is no protection of any kind available. (Bolting is technically illegal in national parks, be warned). Failure to follow this simple rule could see the bolts chopped and the offender dragged into the bushes by strange bearded men, and then clubbed to death by No. 8 hexes.

Chipping of holds is strictly forbidden, and budding sculptors should piss off. If you can't do the climb, don't lower it to your standard, instead, raise your standard to the level of the climb! Top roping is frowned upon, more so because setting up top anchors can be quite difficult and even dangerous due to the very loose nature of the top of the cliff.

Large portable stereos also seem to have an unfortunate habit of having rocks land on them! Use the toilets at the car park and please carry all rubbish out with you!

Credit: A Cheap and Nasty Guide to Frog Buttress. Andrew Martin